High Tea and a Teal Blue Sea

Mel and I are on the child-free trip we have been dreaming of for years (6 years to be precise). We asked a hospitality industry friend about destinations and she recommended Bermuda, and the Fairmont Hamilton Princess, which is why Mel and I are staying at a Fairmont hotel in Hamilton, Bermuda.

Bermuda is a beautiful, interesting island that is a quick 2.5 hour flight from Toronto. Home to the oldest permanently inhabited British settlement in the new world (UNESCO world heritage site St. George) this British territory shares the Queen as Head of State. We learned from the National Museum at the Royal Naval Dockyard the territory’s interesting military history - the women’s regiment deployed with the Canadian Royal Air Force in the Second World War. We also learned about Bermuda’s legacy of slavery where Bermudian’s were enslaved in maritime and military trades for 200 years.

In present day, from a tourists perspective it feels both familiar and unique. Let me explain.

It feels like Maui - modern and expensive (4th highest GDP per capita in the world, $12 minimum wage). Everyone uses USD as Bermuda’s dollar is kept at par; there are almost no all-inclusive resorts; and the vegetation is lush.

It feels Caribbean - the weather is warm, the beaches are stunning and the national drinks are the rum based ‘Swizzle’. and Dark n Stormy. Over 50% of the population are ethnically black, the dwellings are brightly coloured and colonialism is apparent in the architecture.

It feels Canadian (mainly British) - language is English; every hotel has high tea; pubs line Front street, along with Marks and Spencer; and the portion sizes are normal. Apparently 80% of the tourists are American, but there are lots of Canadians and Brits so Bermuda feels western, but not American. The Queen visited the National museum in 2009 to open a mural of Bermudian history that took 3.5 years to complete - it was awesome.

Distinct to Bermuda are the limestone roofs that are built to withstand hurricane winds and collect >80% of the rain water which is required by law. Other laws - no car rentals, 35km/h speed limits throughout, dress code when not at a beach or pool. No Corporate tax brings the business registrants.

High winds bring the sailors. Tomorrow twelve 70’ Clippers arrive at the Royal Bermuda Yacht Club a 3 minute walk away. Hamilton is the next stop on their 11 month around the world race. We are going to check them out tomorrow and get a tour. There are boats everywhere we look.

The Fairmont Hamilton Princess is a sprawling ‘pink palace’ that opened in 1885. With super yachts in view of the salt water infinity pool, guests clad in ‘yacht club chic’ attire and $17 USD drinks it is easy to remember we are staying at a 5 star hotel - many of the hotels in Bermuda are (unsurprisingly) 5 star hotels.

So our days are a combination of enjoying the fancy hotel amenities, checking out the history and culture and hitting the beach. We have had issues with the hotel room(s) but they are hopefully resolved. The more time we spend here the more we realize we may not need to go back to Maui. Hawaii is beautiful, but Bermuda seems to have a lot of the same elements located a stone’s throw from home.

It is 10PM now and we just finished a lovely dinner at the Crown and Anchor, a civilized time made possible by the absence of our beautiful children who FaceTimed with us briefly but do not terribly miss us because they have Brendee who is awesome.

Have an elegant evening,

LindsayRead more