The Naples of the Orient

Kagoshima is often compared to the Italian city of Naples. The climate is about the same, both towns are festooned with palm trees, and both sit at the foot of an enormous, gorgeous volcano.

One could argue that Japan would not be Japan without the city of Kagoshima. The streets are peppered with statues of famous men who have changed the history of this nation. Saigo Takamori was the scion of a wealthy samurai dynasty ruling here for over 200 years. He was instrumental in securing the victory of the Emperor who began the Meiji restoration in the late 19th century. In a strange chain of events, however, he ultimately rebelled against the Emperor and was killed in the revolt. We passed by the spot where he was killed in battle in 1877. Check out Tom Cruise’s movie “The Last Samurai” to get a clearer sense of the history. In the movie the character Katsumoto roughly corresponds with the life of Saigo Takamori. He was not the only hero here, however. The first Japanese physician to practice Western medicine called Kagoshima home. The list of Kagoshima’s residents who have affected the course of world events is long.

The story I like best deals with the 17 teenagers from the 19th century who saw hints that the West was way ahead of Japan scientifically, industrially and militarily. They ignored a ban on foreign travel, escaped Japan and visited the West. Spending several years in England and the United States, they brought back the news that their homeland had some catching-up to do. Japan embraced modernization with a vengeance and and in the late 19th and early 20th centuries conducted its own Industrial Revolution on steroids.

Our visit into this remarkable town was eye-opening. Yasu, our guide, has an excellent command of the English language and led us through one of the most interesting museums I have ever visited. In the atrium one walks on a sheet of lucite over a three-dimensional topographical map of Kagoshima Bay. The hallway is an exact reproduction of a prehistoric cavern, complete with stalactites and stalagmites. The passageway leads to the exhibit of the most ancient artifacts discovered in the area. As one passes through the museum, he advances in time until he comes to the present. Art, tools, music, writing, medicine, politics and technology are all presented in very attractive displays.

Wandering through the well designed exhibition hall makes it easy to understand why the local residents are so proud of their homeland. Without Southern Kyushu, Japan would be radically different and not nearly so interesting.Read more