Alcázar of Seville

This part of southwestern Spain is called “Andalucia,” a survival of a word indicating that, following the collapse of the Roman Empire, this area was ruled by the Vandals. In 711 A. D. the Almohad Moors occupied the area, transforming it into a part of their Islamic domain. It stretched across the strait of Gibraltar and into northern Africa. The Moors ruled southern Spain for a period longer than the United States has existed as a nation. As they occupied the area, the Moors built many structures, including many examples of the “cázar,” which could be translated as fortress, castle or palace.

The most famous of these is La Alhambra, located on a fortified hilltop near Granada. Another was built in the center of town here in the flat lands of Seville. Both structures are characterized by plaster and stonework miraculously transformed into lacy fantasies.

I have long wanted to see this structure for a number of reasons. For one thing, it is another strikingly beautiful example of Almohad architecture. There are several differences between this building and the Alhambra, however. When the Moors were expelled in the late fifteenth century, the Alhambra became a static monument. It was never used or changed afterwards. Parts of it have deteriorated. The Alcázar of Seville, however, while originally built as a Muslim building, was quickly adopted by Christian kings who wanted to replace the Quranic iconography with Christian symbols. First inhabited by Pedro I, the buildings went through major expansion and embellishment by Alfonso XI and Phillip II. Further alterations took place over the last two centuries.

Spanish kings and their families continued to live here for 800 years. They continued to maintain and repair the building. They repurposed some of the rooms and added on others. One important room we saw functioned as the custom house for all of the ships coming into Spain from the New World in the sixteenth century.

This is still a living building. It is still one of the palaces of the Spanish Royal Family, who occupy it for several weeks during the year. When they are not in residence, it is open to the public. Unlike the Alhambra, the Alcázar of Seville has been constantly repaired and kept in pristine condition. While some may contend that it lacks the authenticity of La Alhambra, many parts of this building look as though they could have been built last year, and they are beautiful. They are no less striking because they have been refurbished.

Across the plaza on the other side of the Seville Cathedral stands the Museum of the Indies, their name for what became North America. All of the ships’ logs, the maps, and the accounting sheets produced by Christopher Columbus and his successors are still available to scholars. This was one of the main things I wanted to see on this trip to Spain, and I was certainly not disappointed.Read more