to nowhere in particular

September 2023 - Mei 2024
backpacking my way through the world Baca lagi
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  • 248hari
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  • Hari 203–204

    isfahan #3

    5 April, Iran ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    after another night bus, i was back in the heritage hostel isfahan, basically my second home by now. olli, the finnish biker, was still there, now joined by his mate colin from switzerland, who was an equally chill dude.

    i knew the sights pretty well by now, so we did a little speedrun tour of the city. notably, when we were on our way to the main square on the first day, a spanish dude heading the other way (back to the hostel) appeared quite stirred and frantically signed us to turn around. he explained that there's a war protest going on in the square and that he'd almost been arrested and robbed by secret police there. and indeed, there was a man in a white shirt following him, trying to look normal. we headed the other way. later, we heard from colin that he had also been to the square and almost got arrested because he took a picture. when we went to the square the next morning, the water in the fountain was red.

    we were in the mood for some hitchhiking now, so after just one night, off we went.
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  • Hari 200–202

    tehran #2

    2 April, Iran ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    finally, elias' visa was approved and it was time to head to tehran to pick him up from the airport. under the name "mr. tourist", i took a 6h bus and met him at the hostel. we spent two days out and about in tehran, made some plans on where we'd be heading the next couple of days and met a pakistani tour guide in the hostel, who helped us with our pakistan visa application.

    i also passed on johannes' old tent to elias and made him buy some cheap camping gear. we found ourselves in front of the german embassy once, where a couple of people immediately came up to us asking for help getting out of iran. we couldn't really do anything though. but that's the side of iran you don't see so quickly.
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  • Hari 200–202

    tehran, pt. 2

    2 April, Iran ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    time to pick up elias, who i had first met a couple of months back in izmir. i took a bus to tehran, met the bloke at the hostel and spent two days revisiting tehran. also, i handed johannes' old tent over to him and made him buy a cheap camping mat and sleeping bag.

    by accident, we found ourselves standing in front of the german embassy at one point, where multiple people wanted help from us to get in. of course, i couldn't really do much for them. it's sad, really.

    at the hostel, there was also a nice pakistani guy who helped us complete the pakistan visa. green light.
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  • Hari 196–200

    isfahan, pt. 2

    29 Mac, Iran ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    i spent 4 more nights at the heritage hostel with johannes and olli, a biker from finland who had just come from afghanistan. not too much happened. i didn't want to travel to more cities in order to have enough places "remaining" that i could visit with elias, who i'd pick up from the airport in tehran soon.

    we did get invited to a little house party, though. also, i had to say goodbye to johannes, who went off on his own to go push the envelope.
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  • Hari 196–200

    isfahan #2

    29 Mac, Iran ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    back in isfahan, i spent a couple more days waiting for elias (the german guy i met in izmir in turkey) to get his visa approved and to fly into iran. nothing much happened, apart from saying goodbye to johannes heading off towards yazd and getting invited to a little iranian house party.Baca lagi

  • Hari 195–196

    tanamir strait

    28 Mac, Iran ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    after all the sightseeing and sitting around of the last weeks, i wanted to go smell some fresh air again and managed to convine johnnes to go on a little field trip, which turned out to be a great idea. we took a snapp-taxi out of the city, told him to stop on the highway in the middle of nowhere and started walking towards the mountains. after just 5 minutes of walking, a police car already rolled up on us, but after a bit of talking, we were given permission to proceed as long as we didn't go too far off track.

    under the blazing sun, we started ascending and walked for the rest of day, before finally stopping on top of the huge mesa we had found ourselves on. the views were absolutely amazing, johannes' camera was running hot.

    we had some dinner while watching the sun set and found two good wind protected spots to sleep in. because of low humidity and good weather, we even decided against the tent, so that we could sleep right under the stars. thought i heard some wolves at night, but didn't see any trace the next morning when catching the sunrise.

    we packed up, hiked back down to the highway, and hitched a ride back to isfahan. good times.
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  • Hari 192–195

    isfahan, pt. 1

    25 Mac, Iran ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    this time, we weren't as lucky with the check in time as in kermanshah and had to wait for a couple of hours until we could catch up on sleep. to all of our surprise, johannes, a german bikepacker i had met in the hostel in tehran, walked through the door all of a sudden. we collectively scraped up our remaining energy and went to have a look around the city.

    isfahan is beautiful, great people, and the hostel especially is really worth the money. 4 to 5 euros a night, including all the tea you could ever want, breakfast buffet and great people to meet. if you ever plan to come to iran, start there.

    towards the end of the day, i got the idea to go on a little sunset hike and johannes joined me. it started raining buckets as soon as we got to the mountain, but we decided to push through and were awarded with an invitation to a mountainside barbecue as well as a rainbow sunset. johannes also gave me his old tent for free, which i would in turn give to elias.

    then followed just a couple of slow days spent at the hostel planning, socialising, relaxing. since i feel like i still haven't disconnected from using my phone and so on, i got the idea to do a longer trip to nature at some point in the future. the idea escalated from a 4-day tour in kyrgystan to the te araroa, a 3000km thru-hike spanning the whole of new zealand. we'll see.

    i also realized that i might have to break my no-fly-rule after nepal, because tibet is only crossable with an expensive ass organized tour and tons of paperwork. either that, or i go back all the way to pakistan and cross to china there, which would also require lots of paperwork. once again, we'll see.
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  • Hari 190–191

    shushtar

    23 Mac, Iran ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    upon arrival in andimeshk, we were, as usual, swarmed by taxi drivers. unlike in turkey, they usually leave you be if you say no, though. i notice more and more and more that it's an iranian trait to create problems where there are none. despite this, after some back and forth, we ended up taking a taxi to a spot in the city where you can share taxis with other people to cut costs for longer rides. that seems to be the way to go if there are no bus connections to where you're heading.

    like this, uyiun and i met our new friend (whose name escaped me right now, he only mentioned it once). he was a man in his fourties and had come back from a family visit in andimeshk. after hearing that we weren't sure where to sleep now, he instantly offered to host us both. we were more than glad to accept.

    coming into his apartment, we were greeted by a typical persian living room consisting of carpets and carpets, which makes a great place to sleep, as it turns out. he made some breakfast for us, we took a nap, and then he drove us out to the city center of shushtar, where a famous historical hydraulical system complex lies. looks cooler than it sounds.

    once again, the place was absolutely stuffed and more pictures were taken of us than of the scenery. we met a really nice family that helped us with the tickets, though. also, one of the daughters spoke some korean, which is far more common in iran than you'd ever think. all thanks to k-pop.

    we concluded the day by hiring a private driver for 3 hours for 6.000.000 rial (~11€) to get us to an ancient temple a bit out of the city. we came at the perfect time for sunset, when the masses were already leaving, and even if i'm not a huge fan of old stone stacks, it was really pretty. we even met the family from earlier again.

    back at the apartment, our friend was shocked to hear that we hadn't had proper dinner yet, so he whipped out some chicken to prepare some barbecue skewers. the guy was really the sweetest person ever and he got a lot of joy out of caring for us. by the way, he had the average iranian english competency level, which is zero. we had the google translate servers working 9-5 for us.

    the next morning, he dropped us off at the bus station on his way to work and we said our farewells. sadly, we had to wait about 10 hours until the next bus to isfahan was free, so we had a guy from a grocery store take our bags while we went to the city park to wait it out.

    we chilled for a couple of hours, surprisingly saw people smoking weed on more than one occasion (and were even offered a hit) and had some lunch before heading back to the terminal. the bus wasn't the newest, and uyiun next to me was sick from running around in crocs in the rain, but we survived and made it to the hostel.
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  • Hari 187–189

    kermanshah

    20 Mac, Iran ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    9 hours after almost missing the bus, we arrived at the small kermanshah bus terminal. getting a taxi was a real quest, but eventually we made it to the hostel hidden away in a dodgy looking alley, where we were welcomed the exact moment nowruz (the iranian new year) happened.

    luckily, we still found an open convenience store, where i was the happiest person in the world because i thought i had found pre-made lasagna when really, i just bought 2 kilos of pasta plates. devastating. at least we found out that the products in iran are not, in fact, unmarked, instead, if you look closely enough, you'll find a little stamp with persian numbers somewhere on the packages. after lunch, we took a walk exploring some of kermanshahs back alleys. also bought a new usb c aux adapter for my phone, replacing the one i had kept taped to the back of my phone at the right angle to keep it working for the last couple of weeks.

    just after sunset, we bumped into a chap who promptly invited us to his brothers wedding the next day. we were super pumped and exchanged numbers, but after a couple of messages his number stopped working. we couldn't figure out how to get back in touch with him, so there goes the persian wedding :(

    while we were waiting for our snapp (iranian uber) the next day, a car pulled up next to us and offered to drive us. inside was a doctor couple taking their grandma carpet shopping. they drove us to taq-e-bostan, the local landmark. there, we became the main attraction for the first of many times. since it's a holiday in iran, there were tons of domestic tourists that are even more eager than normal locals to talk to you. as soon as someone worked up the courage to strike up a convo or ask for a picture, half the crowd wanted one. smile and wave.

    we then went on a little walk into the mountainside, where i saw some rock climbers and struck up a conversation. 5 minutes later, i was already roped up and ascending some 7A. no idea in what grading system this is, but after half a year of zero exercise, the crux beat me. still a super fun experience.

    back at the hostel, we had a new dorm mate from iraq. he was a super chill guy and together with an iraqi girl i would meet in isfahan a week later, he opened my eyes to the very real possibility (and relative safety) of travelling to iraq. according to them, the living standards there were better or equal to the ones in iran. there's some kind of a pilgrimage event every year where people from the whole country walk to a specific city, and apparently the security during that time is very good, so i hope i get to parttake in this journey sometime in the future.

    the next day, we booked a bus to our next destination, shushtar, for which we had to wait several hours, so we decided to go somewhere else. i found a nice looking spot in nature on google maps, and as soon as we got close, we were picked up by a car and invited to join the drivers young friend group for a picnick.

    as we were driving up to the spot, i thought we had accidentally run into a festival. there were hundreds of cars parked on this meadow, with tons of people spread out around the place sitting on carpets, barbecuing or smoking hookah. me and julia met the rest of our new crew, none of which could really speak english, but who cares at this point. the vibes were great, it felt like any other get-together of a german uni friend group.

    we hiked up the hillside to some caves tucked away in a small valley, where we weren't going to be bothered by the masses down below, especially since i had carried two bottles of mystery water up the mountain. tents were set up, music boxes turned on, shots poured. we partied up there just until sunset, when we had to leave the group in order not to miss the bus. great times though. and we didn't go blind.
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  • Hari 185–186

    tehran, pt. 1

    18 Mac, Iran ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    driving i to tehran (we paid about 5 euros for a basically empty 9 hour VIP bus with infinite leg space) i got really excited. reaching the azadi tower had been my original travel goal before i extended the trip to kathmandu. the main bus station is right next to the azadi place, so we just had to go check it out.

    then, it was time to say goodbye. stepan had been in contact with a lady from the czech embassy who offered him to stay there in safety as well as sending a private driver to pick him up and get him there. now alone, i had to learn that the cash metro ticket offices (foreign credit cards don't work in iran) close at ten, so i had to look for a taxi. i was down to 500.000 rial (~90ct) at this point, so i had to give the taxi driver a single dollar note on top, which he thankfully accepted.

    arriving at the hostel felt like finally entering a real safe space for the first time in iran. i quickly bumped into uiyun again, who had been waiting there for me. i also met a young guy from afghanistan as well as a german bikepacking couple and we talked deep into the night.

    uiyun, just how we know and love her, already had plans to visit the next city, so we didn't waste any time and explored tehran the whole day. it's a super vibrant city, a lot more liberal than you'd think. you see a lot of women without hijabs, certainly a lot more than in tabriz. people are also mega friendly and everything is insanely cheap. even eating during ramadan isn't a problem, scince travelers are exempt from the fasting. a good chunk of even the locals doesn't seem to follow the fast either.

    we also went to the bus terminal, found the last seats on a night bus to kermanshah, and got on our way.
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