Mouthier-Haute-Pierre 16 miles

A surprisingly good sleep. Not a sound to be heard. I am easily put off sleeping if there is any noise, tv nearby, folk talking or even breathing noisily, snoring, traffic, birdsong, insects the list is endless. But this was lovely. Didn’t let the fact that the pillow had no pillowcase and had probably been used by hundreds of pilgrims put me off in the slightest.

Slice of toast and jam and a coffee for breakfast and off I went.

Slight rain for the first couple of hours but not unpleasant. Kept the temperature manageable. Most of the morning spent on a beautifully surfaced old railway track, gently descending. You don’t get much better than that. It did have an interesting tunnel though.

For the first time I am in a fairly touristy area. Very picturesque. And tourists mean more facilities. Found a great cafe/restaurant for lunch. Didn’t know what I was getting, just that you could order a large plate or a small plate. Went for the small which was just as well as it was quite big enough. After it came I wasn’t much the wiser except it was all vegan. Looked shockingly healthy. The one thing I did understand from the lovely ladies serving was that I had a glass of chilled courgette soup. That’s a first for me.

Afternoon was hot again but helped by an ice cream stop on the way.
Can’t remember what tonight’s place is costing and I don’t want to ask because it is spectacular. A rambling old house with probably up to 10 bedrooms. Dinner was served on various tables spread round the garden. For some reason the lady of the house placed mine in the middle of the garden with an amazing view. No choice for dinner but it was a sort of vegetable stew with salmon & trout mixed in. Very nice too.

Altogether a pretty good day food-wise. About the most, and certainly the healthiest, food I have had so far.

I’ll put up with some tourists knocking about if that’s the payback anytime.Read more