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BangCamNamKong
  • Julia Warmington
  • Paul Hersey
Feb – Mar 2019

BangCamNamKong

A 55-day adventure by Julia & Paul Read more
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  • Trip start
    February 5, 2019
    BangCamNamKong

    Heathrow

    February 5, 2019 in England ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    After a lovely evening with Kathryn & Josh we had a good trip on the coach from Cheltenham & now in holiday mode. Boarded the plane on time & just started to taxi to the runway when a fault showed in the cockpit. Had to return to the stand for diagnostics and then after the change of an oil filter we took off 2 hours late.Read more

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    People putting money in the dragons mouth for good luck.

    Arrived in Bangkok

    February 6, 2019 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    After the initial delay the flight was good and we landed in Bangkok at 12 noon. Train, then metro and short walk to the hotel in Chinatown. It is the last day of celebrations here for the Chinese New Year so the streets are crowded with people, dragons & dancers. Checked into the hotel & out again to join in with the celebrations.Read more

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    The Golden Buddha
    In the Temple for the Reclining BuddhaThe Reclining BuddhaModel made from palm leaves as a gift to the BuddhaThe Reclining Buddha

    Buddhas, Temples & Jazz

    February 7, 2019 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    After a good nights sleep our first visit was to Wat Pho to see the reclining Buddha. Much bigger temple than we expected so took a while to walk around. The Buddha is a very impressive 46 meters in length covered in gold leaf. Then walked to the river & caught a river taxi - lots of whistle blowing and standing room only but efficiently transports people along the river. I just pointed to where we wanted to go on the map & we were told where to get off. Next stop Wat Traimit to see the Golden Buddha - the largest solid gold statue in the world. It had been hidden inside a plaster Buddha to make it look worthless & so not worth taking by the invading Burmese. 200 years later no one remembered it was hidden there. The statue was moved to a new temple & when the hoist broke lifting it into place, it sat overnight in mud & through a rain storm - the plaster broke away to reveal the treasure inside -what a find! Back to the hotel for a quick shower & change & then to a dinner - we both ate far too much at the buffet - & show about the history & beliefs of Siam people - good food & entertaining show with over 100 performers and 500 costumes. The stage even had a river running across it. Finished the day with a beer listening to a jazz band - perfect!Read more

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    The Royal Pantheon in the the Grand Palace
    Some herbal health drink!One of the street food places we ate at.View from the river taxiChinese temple we visited to pray we would not suffer with indigestion!

    The Grand Palace & lots of food

    February 8, 2019 in Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Walked to the river & caught a river taxi to the Grand Palace. Huge grounds and buildings which were very impressive from the outside but disappointing that visitors could only enter the Temple of the Emerald Buddha and the museum. No entry to the palace or any other buildings. Back on the river boat to the hotel stop. The river boats are quite manic experiences - like being on the London Underground in rush hour - a quick way to get from one area to another but crowded and rushed. Late afternoon we went on a 'Chefs tour of street food'. We met our guide and other people on the tour (5 of us in total) & set off for our 15 course street food experience. We ate food I would never have tried in places I would not have been comfortable stopping let alone eat. We ate prawn dumplings, pork & noodle soup, fish soup, chicken satay, prawn omelette, morning glory (spicy veg), chinese donuts, mango sticky rice, chicken Thai curry, pork Thai curry, green vegetable dumpling, coconut ice cream with dark sweet soy sauce, green mango with shrimp sauce and more! Most quite delicious - some just a little hot for me. Early night as have to be up for the coach to Cambodia tomorrow.Read more

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    Hello Cambodia

    February 9, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Up early for taxi to bus collection point. Nice bus with loads of leg room and reclining seats. Roads fairly good and crossing through border went smoothly. Long journey though & arrived in Siem Reap at 4.30pm to be met by the tuk tuk driver from the hotel. I knew when we booked it that the hotel was outside the centre but wasn't expecting the rough roads to get there. Nice small hotel with good food & definitely can't complain at £20 per night including breakfast. Just ate at the hotel tonight as up again early tomorrow for a tour to Angkor Wat.Read more

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    Guess who Paul was hoping would come out!
    The moat at Angkor ThomBayon TempleView from the top of Angkor WatBayon TempleAngkor Wat

    Angkor Thom, Ta Prohm & Angkor Wat

    February 10, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    Lovely banana pancakes for breakfast. Collected from the hotel for our tour of the temples. First stop Angkor Thom. Very impressive moat around the outside - 12k in length, 100m wide and 3m deep. Figures representing God on one side and Demons on the other (having a tug of war with a snake as the rope) line each side of the bridge over the moat. The Bayon Temple in the centre of Angkor Thom was impressive - a Khmer temple built in just 20 years. Once richly decorated but anything of value has been taken by various invading forces. Next stop was Ta Prohm - the Tomb Raiders Temple - left to the jungle. Tree roots entwine through the stones. In the afternoon we visited Angkor Wat - much larger than the previous temples we had seen & better preserved. We climbed up steep steps to the top - good views. Spent the evening at the hotel after a very hot exhausting day. Managed to find the England France Rugby 6 Nations match on TV so happy end to day.Read more

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    Waiting for the tuktuk driver to pay his fine
    Resting by the poolFish Amok - dinnerPub Street

    Siem Reap lazy day

    February 11, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    Decided to have a more restful day today so no alarms set & woke up just in time for breakfast. Walked to the town - quite dusty lanes & very hot. Wandered around the market - interesting to see all the different fish, fruits and vegetables. Stopped at a cafe for some beers and a crocodile pizza - meat was a little chewy but nice! Caught a tuk tuk back to the hotel but were stopped by the police part way back as our driver was not wearing his helmet. We had to wait while he paid his fine (he had to borrow part of our fare from us to pay this) before we carried on (driver still not wearing his helmet). Swim & rest beside the pool - watching a family of rats run through the gardens at the edge of the pool. Went on the hotel tuk tuk back into town for the evening. Walked around the night markets & had dinner in Pub Street.Read more

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    Light lunch - Chicken & pineapple fried rice
    Light lunch - stir fried veg (was not expecting the rice).Fish marketFish market

    Massage & tales

    February 12, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Tuk tuk into town & wandered around the markets. What was supposed to be a light lunch was huge - stir fry veg (which came with rice) & chicken & pineapple rice. Back to the hotel for a swim and our 30 minute free massages. Not sure what to ask for so they gave us a traditional massage. So much pressure it was painful at times but somehow refreshing by the end! I am certain we will have bruises later! Went to the story telling theatre in the evening - 2 men with a variety of musical instruments telling the legends of the Khmer and Cambodia. Interesting performance.Read more

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    Tonle Sap
    View from the rooftop barFishermen on the Tonle SapTonle Sap joining the Mekong River

    Siem Reap to Phnom Penh

    February 13, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Up early and tuk tuk to bus station. Good journey on the Giant Ibis bus. Interesting to see the countryside. Short comfort breaks and lunch stop and arrived in Phom Penh at 3pm. Tuk tuk to the hotel. Walked along the river and through one of the markets - lots of fish. Watched the fishermen on the Tonle Sap, stopped for dinner at a small cafe and walked around the night market. Had a couple of beers in the roof top bar back at the hotel - good views of the city at night.Read more

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    Paul was happy!
    Chaos trying to cross the road.Paul with his Road TripLovely food in a great setting at Eleven One

    Reflection, food & beer

    February 14, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ 🌙 29 °C

    Visited the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum first. It is so hard to understand how this could happen in our lifetime - it was all so brutal & cruel. 12000 - 20000 imprisoned, tortured and brutally killed at this site alone. Heartbreaking to hear parts of the testimony of the brother of Kelly Hamill - a New Zealander imprisoned tortured and killed together with British man John Dawson Dewhirst. They were captured after their yacht drifted into Cambodian waters during a round the world sailing trip within days of Pol Pot coming to power. We spent about 4 hours walking around with an audio tour and we're thankful that we were not on a guided tour being rushed through. Came back to the hotel, showered & read a little more on the circumstances leading up to the Khmer Rouge taking power.

    Found a restaurant a short walk away, recommended on trip advisor, so headed there. Lovely place - sitting in the garden to eat. They are committed to using local food in season and not using plastic - bamboo straws, filtered water served in a glass etc. Food was good too. We then had a cache to find - in a beer garden! Found the place and bought some expensive beers - Paul had a large Road Trip & I had half a French Kiss. Had to ask the barman for a bucket of water to retrieve the cache as one of these in a tube that needs water to make it float - also had holes in the tube so while Paul plugged the holes, the barman held a torch and caught the cache whilst I poured the water - a bit of fun at the end of the day. On the walk back to the hotel there were lots of balloon sellers at the side of the road - looked quite pretty illuminated with little lights. Then we saw one being filled with butane gas (unless the container was labelled incorrectly as do not think butane is lighter than air?). We did not hang around to find out.    Read more

  • BangCamNamKong
    Living by the tracks
    Refreshing swim with a lovely viewOur poorly train before it diedLot of water lillies in the wildA view from the trainLevel crossing

    Au revour Phnom Penh - a train journey!

    February 15, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    Leisurely breakfast & swim in the roof top pool - refreshing & great view. Checked out of hotel and took a tuk tuk to the train station. Collected our ticket but a little early so had a coffee in a local bakery (nice cakes). Bought some snacks for the journey too. Found a cache near the train station on an old steam train. Watched our train being loaded with a car, truck and motorbikes. Thought the train would be a good way to see the countryside and less stressful than on a minibus. It certainly goes at a sedate pace! Plenty of time to watch the countryside go by. One downside was the slight smell of diesel and the other was that we kept needing to stop to top up the water in the engine - it was leaking. Then we broke down completely! 45 minutes later they thought it was fixed - went OK for for a while but stopped again. Eventually we limped along to meet with a replacement engine which was linked up and we made it to the train station at about 2am (should have arrived at 7.40pm). Thankfully tuk tuk drivers were waiting and we set off but we realised he was taking us in the wrong direction and despite trying to explain he continued to take us to the wrong hotel. We set off again but the last part was down very bumpy dirt tracks. Paul was holding onto the bags to make sure they didn't fall off! Arrived at guesthouse at 2.20am. Shattered!Read more

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    Our bungalow
    Dusty mud road leading to our guesthouse.Little oxbow lake we kayaked aroundTrack to our guesthouse.

    Kampot

    February 16, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Staying in a nice 'bungalow' - hut on stilts. First time we have stayed in non-air conditioned accommodation with a mosquito net but we managed to sort it out at 2.20am. The local cockerels thought it was dawn already - they did not stop all night but interesting to hear all the other nightlife! Slept ok despite all the noise - being very tired helped. The hut only has a cold water supply so braved a very refreshing shower before going for breakfast. Limited menu but food cooked to order & was good. Hired one of the kayaks and paddled around a oxbow lake off the main Prek Tuek Chou river. Very gentle flow (just one very short section on the main river) so easy to get around and we really enjoyed the tranquillity. Back to the bungalow & our host recommended a garden party at one of the other properties so we walked there - a bit dusty and hot but we made it. Nice setting next to the river with a stage (girl singing and playing the guitar while we were there). Stayed for a drink and then caught tuk tuk into town & walked along by the river. Town seemed very quiet - almost deserted. Sat and had a few drinks in a bar & then went for dinner early at a restaurant recommended by our host. Bought some beers and water & went back to our bungalow.Read more

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    Hurray - the train
    Looking for a train.Waiting!

    Kampot to Sihanoukville - deja vu

    February 17, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Woke early to a cacophony of sound - dogs barking, cockerels crowing, lizards chirping (duck like sound), the local temple call for prayers & many other strange noises! Paul had not slept well as so much noise through the night. Packed, had breakfast & got a tuk tuk to the train station. Very dusty trip in - lots of lorries on the road - we had a good dust shower! After the bad train journey here we were hoping the train would be on time. Not to be - after a 5 hour wait the train eventually arrived. The train station is a distance from the town so not much to do other than sit & wait. Bought some plantain from one of the stall holders, read & walked around the station area. The train journey was slow but uneventful. We arrived in Sihanoukville about 7.30pm. We went to the first tuk tuk driver who delayed telling us a price but eventually said $25 for 8k. We argued & found another who would do it for $10 so transferred our bags & set off. Arrived at the Don Bosco School Hotel - a school with the opportunity for disadvantaged children to be taught the skills of hospitality by running a hotel. Students run the hotel under the supervision. It was lovely to see. We had dinner in the restaurant. Egg fried noodles with veg - all good and cheap. Room was fine and nice to have hot water.Read more

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    View from our bungalow.View of our bungalows from the pierVIP 5 - our bungalow.

    Koh Rong Sanloem

    February 18, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Had a nice breakfast at the hotel & caught the free minibus into town - the driver kindly took us to the ferry port. Collected our tickets and only had a short wait before the catamaran arrived to take us. Sea was calm and crossing was not too bad. The island is beautiful! The sea is clear- perfect. We have a lovely view of the sea/bay from our bungalow. Walked out into the sea - very shallow for a long way - had a swim and had a nice walk along the beach looking at all the fish, crabs, star fish and other sea creatures in the pools and on the beach. Sat outside the bungalow until sunset. Went to the restaurant for a drink in the evening.Read more

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    Tides in
    My friendly spiderKeep going Paul!

    Tides in

    February 19, 2019 in Cambodia

    Woke to find the tide had come in and now the see was only 20ft from our door. Was not expecting it to come in so far. Paul walked out to show how far it remains shallow. Went for a swim and then to breakfast. Walked part way along the beach - goes on for miles - and back. Felt that was far enough in the heat so found two loungers and sat by the sea reading and watching the ferries come and go - nice to relax. Had an afternoon coffee and cake and made a new friend - found a spider on my arm and he did make me jump! Another short walk to a different bar for a drink and a quick sunset swim (although the tide was out by this time so you have to walk for a long way before you get water to your knees). Meal in the restaurant & played bananas.Read more

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    Lazy Bay

    February 20, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Decided to walk to the other side of the Island for breakfast so set off down the beach to find the trail. Found the start of the trail had been replaced with a wide rough road to a construction site. Not to be put off we carried on until we came to a T junction with a path and was not sure which way to go. Met a girl walking who directed us and after a short section we got onto the right path. Lovely bay and realised we should have taken swimming stuff. Nice breakfast in the bar there. Short walk along the beach & then walked back across the island to our bungalow. I had a nice swim while Paul read his book. We ate at the restaurant in the evening - nice food.Read more

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    The mouth of the bayOur bungalow - to the left of centre - last roof that can be seen.

    Another lazy day

    February 21, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Just a short walk along the beach and out to the end of the pier, bit of reading, a short swim and a lovely massage for me today. So many fish in the sea here - small ones all along the shoreline and larger fish visible from the end of the pier. Paul & I did our bit for the environment by picking up 3 plastic bags and 2 ring pulls from cans whilst walking along and put them in the bin (this is all we found). When returning to the room before dinner we found a new friend - a gecko at least 30cm long - perhaps what has been keeping us awake at night calling. Paul coaxed it outside eventually. Lovely to see though.Read more

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    View of Sihanoukville.
    Hotel pool & viewOur bungalowIn the grounds of the templeTemple

    Back to Sihanoukville

    February 22, 2019 in Cambodia

    Today we had to leave the lovely island of Koh Rong Sanloem. Caught the 10am ferry which took us to Koh Rong first to drop off and collect passengers there and then to Sihanoukville. The sea was calm and so the crossing smooth. In comparison to the island, Sihanoukville is dirty and dusty. After getting some money out of the ATM we negotiated with the tuk tuk drivers & got a small van converted one which gave a nice smooth ride up to our hotel - Port Hedonia. It was 4k out of the town, mainly uphill, but a lovely setting. After checking in we walked up to a nearby viewpoint and around a temple. In the temple grounds they had taken in children orphaned by parents who died from HIV. Back to the hotel for a swim and lounge by the pool.Read more

  • BangCamNamKong
    The market
    Watching the rugby

    Sihanoukville to Phnom Penh

    February 24, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    We had booked the train for the journey back to Phnom Penh but after our last 2 experiences on the train we booked the bus! Either our host had forgotten to book the tuk tuk or he had not turned up so we were taken to the bus station in the hotel car. Bus was good again - sleeper type seats and water and snack provided. One comfort stop and one lunch stop and we arrived about 6 hours later. Tuk tuk to hotel - room is fine -quite large with air conditioning. Walked to the riverside and sat and watched the world go by for a while. Lots of people taking gifts into the Buddhist shrine on the riverside. A mini- market had been set up selling flowers, joss-sticks, fruit, other gifts for the Buddha and lots of birds in cages - mainly sparrows but one cage of swallows. Also lots of fortune tellers - reading the cards. Back to the hotel to change and out to the nearest sports bar for food and to watch the 6 nations rugby. France v Scotland first - good game and then at 11.45pm local time Wales v England. Disappointed by the result - Wales won but it was a good atmosphere in the pub. Walked back to the hotel about 1.30am - they left the door open for us with a sleeping employee on the couch.Read more

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    The garden at the museum
    Wat Phnom templeThe royal casketStatue of Daun PenhWat Phnom

    Amuseum day

    February 24, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Intended to visit the Royal Palace today but having walked there we found it was closed from 11am to 2pm so visited the National Museum instead. Interesting but a lot of artefacts and after a while it is just too much information. There were lots of sculptures of Hindu deities - Ganasha (elephant headed God), Vishnu, Brahma, Lakshmi, Shiva, Harihara and Garuda (Hindu sun bird) from the Khmer era. There was also a casket in which the bodies of kings have been kept before cremation. Nice garden in the centre of the museum and nice and cooler inside on a very hot day. Walked back to hotel to cool down in the air conditioning before going out again to the main market and then walked to Wat Phnom - a temple on top of an artificial hill that was built to house some sculptures of Buddha and then used to house the ashes is Daun Penh who was the founder of the city of Pnhom Penh.Read more

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    Ceremony started behind the Palace gates
    Cavalcade arriving.Police bikes waitingWelcoming crowds.

    Still cant get into the palace!

    February 25, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Walked to the central market in the morning - has lots of jewellery stalls in the centre as well as the vast number of food, fish, clothes and other stalls. Didn't buy anything - just enjoy looking. Then walked to and alongside the river to the Royal Palace ready for the 2pm opening only to be told that it was shut today for a special ceremony - a meeting of the Cambodian King and the Vietnamese President. Lots of military personnel, scouts - including a band and drummers, girls in official dress etc. Flags and placards showing the King and President were handed out. We waited and watched the cavalcade arrive and enter the palace. In the evening we went to a good burger restaurant- sometimes nice to eat burger and fries!Read more

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    The Stupa commemoraing those killed at all killing fields in Cambodia
    Weaving silk at the palaceThe PalaceGettin the new electric wire across the roadStupa for Cambodian King and QueenDifferent colour clothes for the househlold for the different days of the week

    The Killing Fields & Palace

    February 26, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Arranged for a taxi to the Killing Fields which picked us up promptly at 9am. The Killing Fields are a reminder of the brutality of the Khmer Rouge regime. Such a sad place but feel it is good that there is this remembrance for the victims and they should not be forgotten. It seemed strange but also comforting that there is now a school next to the Killing Fields and you can hear children laughing and playing as you walk around - good wins over evil. Our taxi driver waited for us and drove us back to the hotel. Then walked to the Palace, stopping for lunch on the way. Interesting to watch workers adding a new electric wire to the multitude already attached to the poles - even put the ladder against the wires for support to get the wire a cross the road without stopping the traffic. Spent the afternoon walking around the palace areas visitors are allowed in. Very interesting & lovely gardens. Lots of temples in the grounds including the Silver pagoda with emerald Buddha - the floor is covered in silver tiles (mainly covered in carpet but tiles can still be seen). The household of the palace wear different coloured clothes on different days of the week - red on Sunday, orange on
    Monday, purple on Tuesday ...blue on Friday etc.    Read more

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    Good evening Vietnam

    February 27, 2019 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    Travelled by the Giant Ibis Bus from Phnom Penh to Ho Chi Minh City. Delayed start as a few had not got visas for Vietnam. One got off but others decided to try their luck at the border - apparently enough money will get you in! Watched as people queue jumped with a bit of cash in their passport - made all the difference! We had to pay an additional $2 each - slipped inside the passport when given to the coach driver - for having an e-visa! Took a while but got through border control. Arrived in Ho Chi Minh City and looked for the taxi companies recommended to us but could not see one so followed one of the touts to his taxi - we only had 3k to go - how much could that be? After trying to take us in the wrong direction he charged us over 7 times the going rate! We learnt our lesson. On the good side our apartment was lovely.Read more

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    Bats
    Stairs to the Secret GardenInside the post officeThe Secret GardenStreet view - so many bikes!

    Ho Chi Minh City

    February 28, 2019 in Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Started with a couple of loads of washing - nice to get everything clean. Got a taxi to the War Remnants Museum - interesting to read the Vietnam side - obviously much written propaganda. The exhibitions show all the American weapons and the tortures used when USA troops interrogated suspected Vietcong but not how US troops were treated when captured. It is still harrowing to see how all suffered during that time and the effects still being felt due to Agent Orange - chemical sprayed from planes and helicopters to kill the forested areas. In the Imprisonment area there were many bats hanging on the wall - they did not look friendly! Following this we walked to see the Notre Dame Cathedral (only from the outside as being renovated) and the post office (an old French colonial building). In the evening we went for a meal at a restaurant recommended to us - the entrance did not look inviting and 5 flights of stairs to climb but 'the Secret Garden restaurant' was lovely and the food was delicious.Read more

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    Temple at Ving Trang Pagoda
    Elephant-ear fish being inspected by JuliaGentle ride on traditional sampanView from motorised sampanDinner overlooking the riverThe happy buddha

    The Mekong Delta

    March 1, 2019 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Collected from our apartment block & taken to collect the other couple on our tour to the Mekong Delta - another Julia and Paul! Made it easy for the tour guide! First stop was the Buddhist Vinh Trang Pagoda with a very 'happy Buddha'. Next taken to the river to board a motorised sampan to Unicorn Island to see the exotic fruits growing, sample them with traditional folk music being played for us. Fruit was good - particularly liked the sapodilla which we had not eaten before. Then taken to a honey farm to try honey tea - delicious. Back on the sampan to Phung Island to transfer to a traditional sampan which was rowed for us along a canal under the shade of the water coconut trees. Taken to a coconut candy factory - every part of the coconut is used - husk to make carpet, coconut flesh was desiccated & then milk added back to make a slush, then pressed and milk extracted used as fertiliser and the shell is used to burn as fuel for the cooking of the candy. Tasted the candy but have too many fillings to risk eating any more - very sweet and chewy. Taken from here in a horse and carriage to a riverside restaurant for lunch. So much food - deep fried elephant-ear fish, braised fish, sour soup, omelette, morning glory, rice and watermelon. On the motorised sampan to take us back to the minibus to continue our journey to Can Tho for our overnight stop. Nice hotel. Walked to the riverside in the evening through the night market. Lovely dinner overlooking the river.Read more

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