Day 24: Hospital de Orbigo a Astorga

I leave at sunrise around 8.00, it’s later than usual but I only have to cover 17km today. A short day to allow my body some rest and recouping. I’ve booked myself a room at The Descanso de Wendy hotel, which is the last private room I have booked to Santiago, so I’m going to make sure I enjoy the relaxed day. It was a beautiful sunrise, and one of the prettiest walks in a long time today. Gone are the flat fields of the meseta, and here come the mountains and the colours and the variety once again. I feel elated at this, and I really enjoy my walk, savouring every moment as I know that every morning walk is closer to Santiago by the day.

I feel much gratitude at the ability to walk, at the time I have to enjoy this experience, and the people I have met in my life. I also feel grateful for all of the experiences I have had so far, that allow me to connect with so many people from so many walks of life. I keep walking and thinking about my life, how my days are structured and what I can do when I return. I keep walking for a few Kms before I make a stop at a small campsite with a platter of fresh fruit on offer for a small donation, and many pilgrims huddled around it. I eat some watermelon and chat with Vade, who is 70 and from Germany. He mentions that him and his wife have completed 4 Camino’s, and they are not enjoying this one. Too much like tourism they said, and not an authentic experience. Sometimes it feels like my entire life is composed of missed experiences. Things were better 5, 10, 20, 50 years ago. I can’t connect with the pilgrim experience he mentions, and I do feel sad about this. Maybe there is time in the future to attempt something less transactional, more freeing. For now, I am content in the knowledge that I am capable and strong, no matter what experience I end up having.

I walk with Max from France who tells me that he is hoping to leave Paris for the mountains for a summer job. He has grown disillusioned with the washing machine of his life (as he says) and wants to find something he really cares about. I agree, but then I also don’t really know what the solution is either…

I arrive into Astorga and I am unable to check in until 14.00, so I kill some time by buying some more sunglasses (left them in Leon!) and wandering around the cathedral. My Camino friend Kolja asks if I want to make dinner with him at the municipal albergue and I agree, and he makes me a scrambled omelette with vegetables. Vegetables! We then stroll around the town before I leave him to stroll along by myself. I am thankful for my sense of humour, which has allowed us to connect, and I have made many people laugh on this way!

I eat a mint chocolate chip ice cream by the Gaudi palace before retiring to my sumptuous room. I certainly feel a bit like a cheat in this palatial space, and resolve to counteract it somehow by being more thrifty in another area.

I do feel like at this point absolutely nothing feels clean. This is also a reality of hand washing for weeks, and I have to accept that I am not as fresh as I would like to be!

Another day closer to Santiago, but a lovely day. The mountains are waiting for me tomorrow.Baca lagi