Day 32: Portomarin a Palas de Rei

A strange day.

Beautiful walk but the first real day of rain to contend with, and a strange sense of disturbed quietness as many many hordes of pilgrims are walking the last 100km for the Compostela, so there is a renewed energy on the way. Of course, they are doing their own Camino, I am happy for them and I have no judgement. This morning I leave at six, and fall in line after a group of about 45 young Irish teenage girls walking very fast, and talking very loudly and excitedly. There is something slightly jarring about the contrast between the early morning and the level of energy from these girls, I start the day off therefore with a weird, manic energy.

I try to overtake, but my body feels tired and sluggish. The unforgiving Galician countryside is like a wave; up and down and up and down. My energy depleting with each overtake, I stop several times along the way to recuperate.

A slightly frenetic start is followed by a day of walking by many roads, weaving around pilgrims and by rain. I find myself lost in my thoughts often, not fully present. Not really wanting to add more volume to the already buzzing pilgrim train.

I walk alone mostly again, aside from a small stretch with a father and daughter and with a new companion, Kevin from Germany. He wants to walk with me for moral support, as his feet are really bothering him today. I can’t help but feel like I’m not the best company today and don’t feel much like talking.

I walk 25km without much to report.

Some music is listened to, coffee is consumed. I arrive at the town without a reservation, and Kevin and I are turned away twice when we reach Palas de Rei. Luckily, a kind hospitalero calls forward for us and a bed is secured at the rather unpleasant ‘Buen Camino Hostel’, where Kevin and I are in a double room. Kevin is a lovely and kind, and a good conversationalist, but I find myself both physically and mentally exhausted. The rain keeps me inside today, when I really would like to be outside breathing some fresh air.

We do share some Pulpo (octopus) which is Kevin’s first experience. It is good, but it will be better in Melide! I will be there tomorrow, and hoping the rain holds off enough to be able to sit outside. I am looking forward to it, my second to last day before Santiago.

I’m really not sure what my overriding emotion is today, and of course the day is not over. Something tells me I will return to the hostel to relax, perhaps go out for dinner alone if I can help it, and get an early night in solitude. So, I’m checking in for the day a little early. That being said, a nice group of pilgrims are milling around the town and there is a beer to be had in good company, so maybe I will change my mind!

Less photos today, but know it was a beautiful day - albeit a little damp, but I was lost in thought and not recording anything.

Tomorrow Pulpo and another beautiful day, perhaps again in the rain!Read more