WA Road Trip 2023

March - May 2023
Making memories one road trip at a time - Nullarbor Plain, Southern WA, Perth, Coral Coast & Wheatbelt Regions Read more
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  • Day 8

    Cape Le Grande NP

    March 31, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    Today was another superb bucket-list day exploring the many bays and beaches of beautiful Cape Le Grande National Park. With its super fine white sand and magical turquoise waters, it really is proof that Australia has the best beaches in the world. Highlights included:

    * Frenchman's Peak - A rocky mountain outcrop, the shape of which was thought to resemble the hats worn by French troops in the 1800s (debatable).

    * Lucky Bay - An absolute stunner! It was easy to see how it got its reputation as the best beach in Western Australia. Lachie's highlight here was driving onto the beach itself. I was disappointed not to see a kangaroo on the beach (something it's also famed for). We just weren't there are the right time.

    * Thistle Cove & Whistling Rock - An imposing rock formation that echoed the sound of the sea and waves crashing on the rugged coastline below.

    * Hellfire Bay - A beautiful surf beach, with impossibly white sand and crystal clear turquoise water.

    *Cape Le Grande - Again we were able to drive onto the beach where we ate our picnic lunch from the back of the car. A lovely couple driving past stopped and offered to take our photo. Turns out they were also originally from Sydney (Bella Vista of all places) and are staying in the same caravan park as us. Small world.

    After leaving the NP we checked out Esperance Stonehenge, a complete full-size replica of the original UK monument. Apparently, it was the brainchild of some crazy businessman who planned for it to be constructed in Margaret River. Not surprisingly, he went bankrupt but not before all 137 enormous granite stones had been quarried from a site near Esperance. Fortunately, there was another crazy entrepreneur who completed the project on his farm 'conveniently' located nearby to the quarry.

    Fun Fact: Lachlan calculated each stone to weigh roughly as much as 25 of our caravans. Home school 'tick' for today.

    Heading back into town we stopped for a tasting paddle at the Lucky Bay Brewery, all apparently made with their own distilled water.
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  • Day 9

    Napier WA

    April 1, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Today’s drive from Esperance to Albany felt like the longest of our trip so far. We passed some picturesque farm lands and silo art, along with some large areas of burnt out bush. It was interesting to see the regrowth of the native ‘BlackBoys’ (grass trees).

    But the highlight for the day was our long awaited catch-up with Louise, Harry and Darcey who generously hosted us at their fabulous farm just 20 mins outside of Albany. Sadly we missed Matt by a few days, but his presence was nonetheless felt and certainly appreciated through his amazing beer fridge (we especially loved the ginger beer!). We spent a lovely evening exploring the farm and chatting over dinner.

    Absolutely Lachlan’s highlight of the stay was Harry taking him out for a spin on both the ‘side-by-side’ and quad bike, and bravely letting him drive! The smile on Lachie’s face was priceless. Big thanks Harry - you made his day. He’s still talking about it.

    To top it off, we’ve come away with some amazing fresh farm produce - crunchy red apples, delicious pears, free range eggs and the best figs I’ve ever tasted. So welcome after having to travel without fresh fruit and veges as we crossed the State borders.
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  • Day 10

    Albany WA

    April 2, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Another spectacular WA day spent exploring the sights around Albany.

    First on the list of adventures was Granite SkyWalk at Castle Rock in the Porongurup NP. A challenging 2.2 km steep uphill climb with the last part being a literal scramble over big granite boulders and up a ladder to the top. But what a view - a complete 360 degree panorama of the surrounding countryside! It was definitely worth it but my legs are surely feeling it now.

    A quick detour back to Lou's place to pick up the caravan and we're off again to explore some more of beautiful Albany...
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  • Day 10

    Torndirrup NP

    April 2, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Next stop on the Albany adventure tour was Torndirrup NP, including The Gap and Natural Bridge with their outstanding views of the Southern Ocean and some of WA’s most exposed coastline 40m below! Then off to stunning Frenchman's Bay and the old historic Whaling Station.

    Fun Fact: The Cheynes Beach Whaling Company was the last whaling company to cease operations in Australia, closing in 1978.

    Interestingly, we've learned that 'up' - a suffix commonly found in place names in south-western Western Australia - means "place of" in the local Noongar dialect. Places tended to be named after their distinctive features, whereby the place names could be used to create a 'mental map' allowing Indigenous Australians to determine where water, food and other raw materials could be found. These sites were often located near sources of fresh water, leading to the common misconception that 'up' means "near water".

    In this case, Torndirrup - meaning ‘white sandy’ or 'place of white sand hills' - is a fitting description of this spectacular area of coastline, with its dazzling powder-fine (almost) pure quartz dunes and beaches.

    After returning to Albany and checking in at the BIG4 Middleton Beach we drove up to the National ANZAC Centre and Memorial with just enough time to absorb the stunning views over the town and port before heading back to the van for ‘happy hour’ with Lou, Harry and Darcey.
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  • Day 11

    Rainbow Coast WA

    April 3, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    This morning as we set out in a shower of rain, we thought we might see first hand why the region around Albany is known as the 'Rainbow Coast'. But true to our local guide’s word, the rain was short-lived and followed thereafter by patches of sun (sadly no rainbows).

    We headed along the South Coast Highway towards Denmark and Walpole. The Valley of the Giants famous Tree Top Walk was pretty cool, comprising a series of platforms and suspension bridges reaching 40m above the forest floor! Sadly my childhood memory of driving through the hollow of a giant Red Tingle tree wasn’t to be relived, as it turns out such activity (including by generations before us) ultimately played a part in killing the tree, with its surprisingly shallow root system destroyed by years of ground compaction. Fortunately, the WA Department of Biodiversity, Conservation and Attractions is now actively correcting the errors of the past and protecting these magnificent trees and forests so we may appreciate them for years to come.

    As the sun came out, we headed for William Bay National Park and another of my childhood memories - Greens Pool. We also checked out nearby Elephant Rocks and Waterfall Beach. They are each spectacular swimming spots in their own right, so it’s unfair to say we were underwhelmed. But we all agreed they just didn’t compare to Lucky Bay and Cape Le Grande NP. We’ve been ruined, no beach will compare!

    Returning to town we explored the Brig Amity to experience what life would have been like aboard one of the convict ships that came to the West Coast of Australia in 1826.

    We ended another great day with dinner at Due South, a funky casual restaurant down by the waterfront, to celebrate our last night in Albany and farewell Lou and Darcey (and Harry). It’s been so good to catch up xx
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  • Day 12

    Pemberton WA

    April 4, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today was essentially a travel day between Albany and Margaret River, with a short detour to climb the Gloucester Tree at Pemberton.

    But first on the agenda was ‘breakfast’ at the Mount Barker Bakery (another great recommendation on Lou’s foodie tour of Albany). Possibly one of the best old school bakeries we’ve been to - so much choice! We opted for the recommended green curry chicken pie (the best!) and classic vanilla slice and were not disappointed. Plus a high-top loaf that was perfect for our sandwich lunch in the forest at Pemberton. I’d like to say we’ll be back, but we must keep moving on.

    The Gloucester Tree certainly was an experience. Originally a fire spotting tower, the enormous Karri tree is now open for visitors to climb the ladder to appreciate spectacular views over the forest. Anthony made it to the top, while Lachie and I went part way up before returning to take pics from below. Some poor planning on our part meant the big camera and zoom lens were locked in the van with the keys in Anthony’s pocket some 53m above. Look for a tiny little figure amongst the branches - that will be Anthony!

    Our pre-purchased WA Parks Pass is paying dividends. We have used it many times already and definitely recouped it’s value.

    After checking in at Margaret River Tourist Park, we made a quick dash to Xanadu Winery for essential supplies before checking out the town and retiring for dinner in the van.
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  • Day 13

    Margaret River WA

    April 5, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Another on-the-go day packing in as many sights and activities as we could around Margaret River.

    We spent the morning in town fulfilling a special request from Josh for a Margaret River surf t-shirt from Hillzeez, along with West Coast Eagles caps for Anthony, Ryan and Lachie.

    Then it was off south to Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse, reportedly the tallest on mainland Australia, presiding over the treacherous seas where the Southern and Indian Oceans meet.

    As we made our way back up the coast road we stopped for a tour of Lake Cave, with the largest intact suspended table formation in the world! Although not a big cave (just 80m long) it had a number of interesting features that when lit up presented a rather spectacular scene.

    Next stop, Surfers Point and Southside surf breaks at the mouth of the Margaret River itself. They were in the process of setting up for the Margaret River Pro event later in the month. Pity we missed it by just a few weeks. The beach wasn’t what we’d expected. It truly is for surfers only. We were surprised it appeared to be a rock shelf. However, the break was interesting, apparently called an a-frame wave caused by opposing swells from the Southern and Indian oceans.

    And of course last but not least, no trip to Margaret River would be complete without visiting the wineries. Voyager Estate was by far our favourite and an excellent recommendation. We might need an ATM upgrade for the caravan before we leave! Looking forward to joining up with Daniel and Helen in a couple of days time to enjoy the bounty.
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  • Day 14

    Busselton WA

    April 6, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Today, finally, after 12 days of heading west, we’ve dipped our toes in the Indian Ocean and are now heading north! Destination Fremantle for the Easter Weekend. We’re very much looking forward to reuniting with Josh and Ryan and will be waiting excitedly at the airport to welcome them tomorrow morning. Although he probably won’t admit it, Lachie is especially excited for their return. Mum and Dad are fun, but big bros are the best! The footy ball is already out and awaiting a good kick-around.

    When in Busselton, one must visit the longest wooden-piled jetty in the Southern Hemisphere. Being such a glorious day we happily strolled the 1.8 km out to the Underwater Observatory, one of only six operating in the world. We saw some interesting sea life including a big Samson fish which can apparently grow to 6 feet long. We were lucky to jag some seats on the solar-powered Jetty Train for the way back, which also included interesting commentary about the history of the jetty.

    After checking in at the Discovery Park Woodman Point we headed into Fremantle for dinner at Gino’s Cafe - another great recommendation. As the story goes, Gino Saccone arrived in 1956 from Italy. He worked as a tailor in Freo for over 20 years, but he could never get a decent coffee. In 1983 he closed his tailor shop and with his family opened Ginos Café. Since then 3 generations of the Saccone family have run Gino's Cafe and still serve some of the best coffee in Perth – with Rosa’s home style Italian cooking.
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  • Day 15

    Perth WA

    April 7, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    It’s Good Friday!

    This morning we enjoyed a relaxed start before heading to the airport to meet Josh and Ryan, with Dan, Helen, Claire and Michael. Josh had joked about wanting to be greeted with a sign… I think he was suitably impressed/embarrassed LOL.

    We spent the rest of the day exploring Perth and finishing with fish and chips down at Fremantle Harbour. I must say I’m feeling very short suddenly!

    After a very early (4 am) start for the boys, we retired early ready for tomorrow’s adventures.

    Thank you Nan and Pop for taking good care of Josh and Ryan the past two weeks and especially for getting them to the airport at sparrows this morning.

    We’re all a little cosier in the van tonight, but our family is complete again and we wouldn’t have it any other way xx
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  • Day 16

    Rockingham WA

    April 8, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Today we were up super early and headed down to Rockingham to join Perth Wildlife Encounters for their swim with dolphins cruise, as featured on Travel Guides - move over Fren family, we got this!

    The uniqueness of this particular experience is that the dolphins are wild and at home in their natural environment. They don't perform tricks and they certainly don’t come on cue, as we found out!

    We cruised the waters of Cockburn Sound for over 5 hours looking for the cheeky creatures (apparently the average search time is around 1 hr). Fortunately the water was calm and the on-board lunch kept us going.

    Just when we thought it wasn’t going to be our day, a playful pod of 8 or so dolphins appeared alongside the boat and the game of hide and seek was over. We were treated to a truly magical experience swimming amongst them (including a mother and her calf) at just an arm’s length away.

    After finishing what turned out to be a very long day cruising on such such a high, we treated ourselves for dinner at Portorosa restaurant in Fremantle. And as it turned out, we were also treated to the Fremantle Street Arts Festival, an open-air theatre of the amazing, weird and wacky!
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