• Alan Chapman

The Canary Islands 2022

Pengembaraan 36hari oleh Alan Baca lagi
  • Permulaan perjalanan
    28 Oktober 2022

    London to Lanzarote

    29 Oktober 2022, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    On Friday the 28th, I'd left Matt in my flat at 13.30 and taken the train from Westminster to Victoria in time to catch the 14.00 Gatwick Express which took 30 minutes to reach Gatwick. After taking the shuttle train from South to North Terminal, I walked across the road to the Premier Inn in time for checking-in at 15.00.
    The total cost of the overnight stay was £89.00 which included a meal-deal of a 2-course dinner with a glass of wine plus a full English breakfast.
    After dinner, I watched rugby in the bar, and chatted to a couple who had just returned from the USA, which they said was getting very expensive, partly due to the weak Pound, and who were going on a relocation cruise from the Mediterranean to Jamaica.
    On Saturday the 29th, I checked out of the hotel at 10.30, walked across the road to the North Terminal, and, once the check-in for my easyJet flight was open, self-checked in my bag. I passed through security quickly and was well in-time for the 14.35 flight, but this was delayed until 17.15 because the plane was needed for an emergency elsewhere. Eventually, the Airbus 320 left for the 4-hour flight to Arrecife, the capital of Lanzarote.
    Arriving at Arrecife at 21.30, I passed quickly through security and joined three others for the short taxi-ride to the Costa Mar Aparthotel on the outskirts of the resort of Playa del Carmen where we were met by Gaby, the tour leader, who was German but lived in Barcelona where the tour operator used by Explore was based.
    My apartment had two double-bedrooms, a kitchen, lounge and bathroom plus a small terrace with a washing-line.
    The aparthotel had a number of blocks rising to three levels with terraces for some apartments, plus a swimming pool, a large reception, and a dining room. It was conveniently opposite a pharmacy and a SPAR supermarket, and just behind the main road running behind the wide black-sand beach. Snack lunches were purchased from this and other SPARs on the other islands.
    Baca lagi

  • Femes to Playa de Queimada

    30 Oktober 2022, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    After a buffet breakfast, the group left for its first hike at 9.00. We went by mini-bus to Femes, a small village at the base of the southern mountains. The hike took us on a well-marked trail through the lunar, remote landscape of the Ajaches hills, down to a cove for lunch, and back up a hill before descending to the coast at Playa de Queimada for a drink, before driving back to the aparthotel.
    The weather was hazy but hot at 29 degrees.
    The 10km walk of 20,000 steps had a total ascent of 350 metres and a descent of 650 metres.
    The group went for dinner at a nearby restaurant which was in an area of tourist shops and restaurants in front of lots of white-washed apartments. The restaurants had very similar menus in Spanish, German and English.
    The group was Chris and Sue, Gill, Peter, Pavel, Caroline, Antonia, Jane, myself, and Gaby, the leader.
    Baca lagi

  • Maguez to the Mirador del Rio

    31 Oktober 2022, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    The hike began from the village of Maguez close to the NW coast. There were some steep sections, some on lava ash or scree. We saw Mount Corona, a perfectly-shaped Strombolian volcano as described on one of the information boards along the path. There was lots of other evidence of volcanic activity; basalt cliffs, cones and lava fields. The cultivated fields were covered with lava dust to assist irrigation. There were disused terraces on the hillsides. Recent rain had added a green tinge to the volcanos and land.
    The path continued along the top of the cliffs of Famara, first to the Montana del Gayo with spectacular views across the Atlantic and surrounding cliffs, and finally reaching the Mirador del Rio after a few kilometres up a tarmac road. The Mirador is a 475 metre high viewpoint located at the edge of the Famara cliffs, built into the lava rock. The building, converted from a gun emplacement designed by local artist Cesar Manique, blends into the landscape, the floor to ceiling glass windows and outdoor walkway provide panoramic views across the El Rio strait towards Isla la Graciosa.
    As on the previous day, we had the paths more or less to ourselves. The hike was 14km with a total ascent of 550 metres and descent of 350 metres.
    The weather had cooled to the mid-20s. where it stayed for much of the rest of the trip.
    We had a nice dinner in a Spanish restaurant near the aparthotel.
    Baca lagi

  • Parque Naturale de los Volcanes

    1 November 2022, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We drove to the centre of Lanzarote, near the village of Mancha Blanca, for the start of a circular walk around the Parque Naturale de los Volcanes which is to the east of the Timanfaya National Park. The dirt paths went through lava fields and past the Volcanos Colorado, Negro and Cuervos. The rocks were black, red, yellow and green.
    We had lunch inside the Caldera de los Cuervos, better known as Volcán del Cuervo. This volcano is interesting because it was the first volcanic cone generated during the Timanfaya eruption, which took place between 1730 and 1736 and changed the landscape of Lanzarote, giving it an almost lunar appearance.
    The 10km walk had a total ascent and descent of 300 metres.
    In the afternoon, we went to Bodega Geria to drink wine from the Malvasia grapes, to eat tapas, and to see how the vines are protected from the prevailing winds by horseshoe lava walls.
    Dinner was at another Spanish restaurant near the aparthotel.
    Baca lagi

  • Isla La Graciosa

    2 November 2022, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Another warm and sunny day although breezy in the safternoon.
    On our free day, six of us took an inclusive trip for 35 Euro to the Isla La Graciosa opposite the north coast of Lanzarote. We went by coach, collecting other passengers at the resorts of Playa del Carmen and Teguise, before arriving after 100 minutes at Orzola from where we went by ferry for the 25 minute ride to Caleta de Sabo, the only village on the Isla. We had a great view of the Famara cliifs but couldn't see the well-hidden Mirador del Rio.
    The Isla has no paved roads, just tracks of sand blown westwards from the Western Sahara which has also covered much of the lava fields.
    Pavel and I walked for about 30 minutes before reaching the Volcan Vermelho, also known as Montana Bermeja, at the western tip of the island. We walked up 175 metres to the plateau at the top for great views over the island, including the sandy beaches and aquamarine sea below. Descending, we went to one of the clean beaches, and I splashed in the shallows, not venturing too far due to the steep shelving. Leaving Pavel there, I walked back to the village for a quick tapas before catching the ferry and coach home.
    We passed one of Lanzarote's desalination plants on the coast near the resort of Teguise.
    Isla Graciosa was declared to be the 8th Canary Island in 2018. It would be a great place to chill out for a few days on the beach and walking up the five peaks.
    We had dinner at an Indian restaurant, including kulfi ice-creams.
    Baca lagi

  • Haria to the Caleta de Famara

    3 November 2022, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We drove to the NW of Lanzarote to Haria, a pretty village of low-lying white-washed buildings situated in the fertile Valley of the Thousand Palm Trees, where was stopped for a coffee. Walking across the surrounding hills passing cultivated plots of fig trees and grape vines, we reached the clifftop area of Bosquecillo with great views down the Famara cliffs to the beach at Caleta de Famara. The elevation of the viewpoint near a military communications area was 670 metres., the highest point of the island as it often is where there is a military establishment.
    After lunch amongst the rocks on the clifftop, we descended down a ravine on a steep path to the 5km-long beach and the village of Caleta de Famara which is a centre of windsurfing, bodysurfing and kitesurfing on the big waves rolling in from the Atlantic, even despite the red flag flying on that day.
    The walk was 12km with 450 metres ascent and 650 metres of descent.
    After a drink and a sticky toffee pudding at an arty surfers' restaurant, we went by minibus to the former capital, Teguise, to see the historic centre.
    We returned to one of the better restaurants for dinner.
    Cesar Manrique was an artist and environmentalist, responsible for many of the art installations at roundabouts, and the absence of advertising billboards along the roads, a contrast with other islands such as Tenerife.
    Baca lagi

  • Guatiza to Arrieta and Jardim de Cactus

    4 November 2022, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We drove up the east coast to near the village of Guatiza where we started walking along trails leading to the coast where was saw waves crashing into the rocks. We walked north along the rugged coastline, passing some traditional but still operating salines, and nudist beaches., to the fishing village of Arrieta for refreshment.
    Later in the afternoon, we stopped at the very impressive Jardim de Cactus, designed by Cesar Manrique, which has one thousand cacti from around the world in a landscaped garden, plus a windmill.
    The walk was 15km with 100 metres of ascent and 250 metre of descent.
    The last night dinner was in Puerto del Carmen overlooking the sea. The town itself was very touristy with shops, restaurants, bars, and slot-machine arcades.
    Baca lagi

  • Lanzarote to Gran Canaria

    5 November 2022, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Having said goodbye to the group at breakfast, a taxi took me to the airport for the 13.30 Canary Air flight to Las Palmas in Gran Canaria where I was met by the Explore leader of the next week's holiday, Mateusz, who was from a Polish family, born in Norway, lived in Germany, and now lived in Pamplona.
    A taxi shared with Lisa took us to the Hotel Escuela Rural Casa de los Camellos in Aguimes which is situated in the hills overlooking the east coast of Gran Canaria. The narrow streets and houses of the historic centre of the town had been renovated.
    The hotel was an old house with two courtyards which had been owned by camel -owners.
    I had a Uruquay dulce de leche dessert and a coffee with Lisa in the afternoon followed by goat lasagne and an excellent salad for dinner with the rest of the group.
    The group consisted of Lisa from York, Hazel from Leicester, Andrew and Janice from Henley, Gavin from Northern Ireland, Sean from Bishops Stortford, Paul and Ann from Brighton, David from Chingford, Steve from Durham, Geoff from Weymouth, Tista from Clapham, Fiona from Leatherhead, and Catherine from Oxford.
    Baca lagi

  • Guayadeque Canyon

    6 November 2022, Sepanyol ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    On the first of many sunny and warm days, and despite having been kept awake by the church bell ringing every hour during the night, the group walked from Aguimes along the Barranco de Guayadeque, stopping at the Cenro de Interpretation to learn about the cave dwellers. We continued up the gorge to the Cueva Bermejas for a drink at a cafe in the cave before ascending the cliffs to reach the top of the gorge, about 600m high, for lunch. We walked back to Aguimes through abandoned farm terraces. The walk was about 12 kms with 550 metres of ascent and descent.
    I walked around the pretty centre of Aguimes, entering the Iglesia de San Sebastion, and had a radler, a refreshing lager shandy and cheese cake. In the evening, we had an al fresco tapas dinner.
    Baca lagi

  • Roque Nublo to La Aldea

    7 November 2022, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We drove 90 minutes to the start of the walk up to the Roque Nublo, the plateau being about 1750m high. There were great views of the surrounding landscape. After a picnic lunch and a group photo, we descended to La Culata, the walk being about 4 kms each way with 460m of ascent and 520m of descent.
    We drove to the pretty village with white-washed houses of Tejada for afternoon refreshments and a view of Roque Bentayga.
    Due to a landslide, we had to make a detour and drive for 2 hours to Puerto de las Nieves and Agaete in the NW of the island and then down the dramatic GC200 road along the west coast. The road may be closed to vehicular traffic once all the tunnels are built. The La Aldea Tunnel is 2 miles long. Eventually, we arrived in La Aldea for a 3-night stay at the Hotel La Aldea Suites, a modern hotel with the BBC on the TV.
    There had been wonderful scenery with a clear blue sky all day.
    Dinner was a set menu at a local restaurant.
    Baca lagi

  • La Aldea to Mogan

    8 November 2022, Sepanyol

    After an excellent breakfast with lots of different breads and cakes to appeal to the German group at the hotel, we took a public bus inland along the GC200 before getting off at the Aldea Pass (700m) to follow an ancient pathway which connects the villages of La Aldea, Tasarte and Veneguara. It was an undulating trail with two steep ascents and three descents; 14 kms with 250m of ascent and 400m of descent.
    The view to the left was of the walls of Los Azulejos, green-layered rock sheets topped by the Inagua Forest which some of the group walked the following day.
    After stopping at the villages of Veneguera for lunch and Mogan for a drink, we caught the public bus for an hour's drive in and out of all the ravines back to La Aldea.
    We had a nice dinner in the old part of town.
    Baca lagi

  • Playa de La Aldea

    9 November 2022, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    On our free day which was sunny, hot and windy in the afternoon,, I walked 5km down the barranco, partly through the market-gardening of tomatoes and bananas covered with plastic sheets, to Playa de La Aldea, a small fishing village.with a shingly beach and a wetland protected from the rough sea by a harbour wall. and breakwater.
    On the way, I walked across Latitude 28 North which Columbus had followed from the Canaries to the West Indies.
    I had gambas (shrimps) in garlic followed by a Uruguayian creamy dessert for lunch at a cafe near the seafront, followed by a coffee in the afternoon in a small park where I read a book.
    The public bus back to La Aldea hadn't arrived by the due time but, fortunately, a German couple stopped and gave me a lift back to town.
    Baca lagi

  • Pico de los Nieves

    10 November 2022, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We left La Aldea in a smaller coach than before which allowed the driver to use the smaller roads rather than having to make a major detour to reach the Pico de los Nieves, the highest point of Gran Canaria at 1942m. The winding road left me and others almost coach-sick.
    We walked steeply uphill for and hour and 3kms with 200m of ascent to reach the Pico which could also be reached by car. There were great views from the top with the Roque Nublo in the distance.
    We walked down for 11kms with 800m of descent through a pine forest and a paved section of the Camino de Santiago to Degollada de los Hornos (1719m) and then to San Bartolome where we rejoined the coach for the drive back to Aguimes and a couple more nights at the Hotel Escuela Rural.
    I had vegetable paella for dinner at an al fresco restaurant.
    Baca lagi

  • Santa Lucia to Aguimes

    11 November 2022, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    On another sunny and warm day, we took a local bus for the 50 minute drive to Santa Lucia. from where we started a long but scenic walk back to Aguimes. The walk was 17km with 300m of ascent and 700m of descent. We walked through a water-sculptured ravine and over some farmland covered with soil rather than the usual stony or rocky ground.
    I had a final beer and pastry in the square in Aguimes followed by the farewell dinner. There was a fiesta with races, and live music with African and Caribbean influences.
    Baca lagi

  • Gran Canaria to Tenerife and La Gomera

    12 November 2022, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    On another sunny and warm day, I took a taxi from the hotel in Aguimes to the airport at 11.30. The departure hall at the airport was about 1km long and very busy.
    The Binter Canarias flight to Tenerife Sur on an ATR took 40 minutes. I was met by Brian, the Explore leader, and taken by taxi to Andrew's Hotel in Los Cristianos, the meeting point for the group. I walked with Alison to the beach and had a coffee, before returning to the hotel to meet the rest of the group, and then walking to the ferry port.
    The Armas Naviera ferry to San Sebastion, the capital of La Gomera, departed at 19.30 and took an hour. We checked into the Hotel Torre del Conde, and then walked across the road for a late dinner.
    The group consisted of Alison from Colchester, Tricia from Rochester, Lee from Finsbury Park, Pauline from Glasgow, Kevin from Preston, Giselle and Tim (ex-BP) from Malvern, Christine and James from near Bangor, and Fernaz from New York. Brian Teuwen, the leader, was Dutch and had starred in Bittersweet Days in 2016.
    Baca lagi

  • Collada de Peraza to San Sebastian

    13 November 2022, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    On a warm and sunny day, we travelled by coach to Collada de Pereza for the start of a 17km walk ascending 300m and descending 1000m. The trail started on a stone-paved path through a variety of vegetation including aloe and asphodel, and later pines and palms. When we reached the village of La Laja, we saw the striking rock formations of Los Roques. We continued along a quiet rural road to Chejelipes where the coach met us to take us back to San Sebastian.Baca lagi

  • Garajonay National Park

    15 November 2022, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    On a sunny and hot day, we drove almost to the top of the island, walking the last kilometre to the Alto de Garajonay at 1484m. where we had a splendid 360 degree view of the surrounding landscape. We continued down a trail in the Garajonay National Park through the ancient Laurisilva cloud forest, unique to La Gomera,Tenerife and La Palma. We stopped for a picnic lunch at the chapel of Nuestra Senora de Lourdes before continuing down the Barranc del Cedro, a deep ravine surrounded by lush vegetation with a bubbling stream at the bottom. The trail continued through the village of El Cedro before we were met by the coach to return to San Sebastian.
    The 10km walk had 300m of ascent and 900m of descent.
    Dinner was at a fish restaurant near the beach where you could choose from the catch of the day.
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  • Walk to Playa Caleta

    15 November 2022, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Starting in Hermigua, we walked on unmade hillside paths, quite narrow in places along the cliffs, for 10km with 400m of ascent and 600m of descent to Playa Caleta. The walk had started by going up through a valley of banana plantations, where we stopped for our picnic lunch and a drink at a bar, before descending steeply across a lava field which met the cliff path.
    We had a good view of Mount Tiede on Tenerife in the morning.
    Playa Caleta has a volcanic black sand beach although it was being battered by the heavy waves. The bar and cafe which we were looking forward to had been closed to discourage visitors going into the often rough sea.
    Returning to San Sebastian by coach, we went to a smart restaurant which served watercress soup and rabbit, both local specialities.
    Before dinner, some of us had a demonstration from a couple of ladies of the whistling which the locals used to use to communicate across the valleys.
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  • The morning in San Sebastian

    16 November 2022, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    This was a free day to explore San Sebastian. After buying a battery for the stopwatch/alarm clock and stamps, I walked around the town, visiting the Torre del Conde, the Museo Casa de Colon (Columbus House), a geological museum, the Iglesia Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion, the Ermita de San Sebastian, and seeing the old houses, more of them being restored, and the colourful houses up the hillsides.Baca lagi

  • The afternoon in San Sebastian

    16 November 2022, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    For a 52 Euro lunch, I went with Alison, Tricia, Giselle and Tim to the Parador Nacional de Turismo which was set in an old building (a palace or a monastery?) on a headland overlooking the town with a garden to relax in afterwards. The room rate per night was 200 Euro.
    We went to the restaurant opposite the hotel for a light dinner.
    Baca lagi

  • Vallehermosa to Agulo

    17 November 2022, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    On another hot and sunny day, we drove to Vallehermosa where I had a fresh orange juice at a cafe before starting the 14km walk with 770m of ascent and descent to the coastal town of Agulo. The trail passed the Roque Cano, terraced fields and banana plantations before following the contours of the coastal inlets. There had been excellent views of Mount Tiede plus the villages in the valleys.
    The sea-misty Mirador Abrantes with its glass platform was closed when we arrived at 16.30. We popped into the National Park information centre nearby for a break before commencing the steep 700m walk down the cliff to Agulo just in time before it got dark.
    I had king fish for dinner plus palm honey on goats cheese.
    Baca lagi

  • Return to Tenerife and Mount Tiede

    18 November 2022, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Differences between La Gomera and Gran Canaria were the lack of road tunnels and plastic sheeting over the bananas and tomatoes in the former. A difference between La Gomera and other islands with Lanzarote was the public art at roundabouts and the lack of advertising hoardings along the roads in the latter, a legacy of Manrique.
    In the morning, we took the ferry back to Tenerife. I stood at the back, watching La Gomera receding into the distance. We were met by a coach which drove north out of Los Cristianos to the largest Canarian Fir, 180ft tall with an 8ft circumference, where we had our picnic lunch. in the cold misty air. Fortunately, we emerged through the clouds into bright sunshine when we entered Tiede National Park, driving through a fir forest before reaching the car-park at the Roque de Garcia at an elevation of 2,000 ft.
    We walked for 2 hours around the Roque de Garcia circuit at the foot of Mount Tiede, seeing spectacular volcanic scenery.
    After a break at the hotel near the circuit, we drove to the district of Golf Sur on the south-east coast and arrived at the Grand Muthu Golf Plaza, an MGM hotel, where I stayed for 5 nights in a room which was like an apartment with a kitchen, lounge, large bedroom and patio which may have seen better days.
    The group went to a good restaurant near the marina for the farewell dinner.
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  • Golf Sur

    19 November 2022, Sepanyol ⋅ 🌬 24 °C

    In the morning after an excellent breakfast, I said farewell to the group, did my washing, and booked the return flight from Tokyo in November 2023. I had lunch in the hotel with Kevin before embarking on a 2-hour walk around the neighbourhood, including San Blas and the promenade by the rocky coast, and into the Golf Sur course. There were lots of apartments, and village developments with lava scrubland in between. Some retail units were closed which may have been due to the low season rather any effect of less demand due to covid.
    I had dinner at a local Irish bar, and watched England and NZ draw 25-25 at Twickenham.
    Baca lagi

  • El Medano

    20 November 2022, Sepanyol ⋅ 🌬 24 °C

    A sunny and very windy day which would make playing tennis and golf interesting. There are few solar panels despite all the sunshine but there are wind farms further up the coast. The market-gardening is under grey netting.
    Planes landing at the nearby airport overfly the hotel.
    I took the bus to El Medano, a coastal town 20 minutes away. The ticket cost 1.45 Euro. As I walked the 2km boardwalk, I got sand-blasted in places, but the wind was ideal for the dozens of colourful kite-surfers, and there was a sandy beach with lots of people enjoying the sunshine. There was some kind of fun-run around the town linked to a fitness campaign.
    I had a nice lunch at a restaurant overlooking the rough sea..
    Returning to Golf Sur by bus, I sat in the hotel's grounds writing post-cards.
    Baca lagi

  • Coach tour of Tenerife

    21 November 2022, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    It was sunny in the south but cloudy in the north of the island.
    I had booked a coach tour with the agency next door to the hotel, and was picked up at 07.50 from the Albatross Hotel just down the road, and taken to a meeting point in Los Cristianos where I got almost the last seat on the coach.
    The first stop was at the cafe near the fir tree which the group had visited a few days previously.
    The second stop for a short while was at the Roque de Garcia in the Tiede National Park which was not windy as it was three days before.
    The coach drove around the west side of the Park, passing volcanic cones and then through a number of villages; Santiago de Tiede, Chio, and Guia de Isora, stopping in one for a drink and tourist shopping.
    The fourth stop was in Icod de los Vinos to see the famous drago street and a historic house, and to have lunch. I went to a Venezuelan cafe.
    The fifth stop for a photo was at the small port of Garachico on the north coast. The coach then climbed uphill on a tortuous road to Masca which was situated beautifully in a ravine, partly covered in mist, leading down to the sea on the west coast. This was good hiking country.
    The coach continued on the tortuous road which would be interesting in high season with few passing places for coaches and buses. A tunnel is being built to ease the traffic flow between the north and south of the island. A good road took us back to Los Cristianos. I was the last to be dropped off. The tour had been a good way to see some more of Tenerife.
    In the evening, I watched Wales v USA in the football World Cup , and had a buffet dinner in the hotel.
    Baca lagi