The Canary Islands 2022

October - December 2022
A 36-day adventure by Alan Read more
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  • 786miles
  • Day 2

    London to Lanzarote

    October 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    On Friday the 28th, I'd left Matt in my flat at 13.30 and taken the train from Westminster to Victoria in time to catch the 14.00 Gatwick Express which took 30 minutes to reach Gatwick. After taking the shuttle train from South to North Terminal, I walked across the road to the Premier Inn in time for checking-in at 15.00.
    The total cost of the overnight stay was £89.00 which included a meal-deal of a 2-course dinner with a glass of wine plus a full English breakfast.
    After dinner, I watched rugby in the bar, and chatted to a couple who had just returned from the USA, which they said was getting very expensive, partly due to the weak Pound, and who were going on a relocation cruise from the Mediterranean to Jamaica.
    On Saturday the 29th, I checked out of the hotel at 10.30, walked across the road to the North Terminal, and, once the check-in for my easyJet flight was open, self-checked in my bag. I passed through security quickly and was well in-time for the 14.35 flight, but this was delayed until 17.15 because the plane was needed for an emergency elsewhere. Eventually, the Airbus 320 left for the 4-hour flight to Arrecife, the capital of Lanzarote.
    Arriving at Arrecife at 21.30, I passed quickly through security and joined three others for the short taxi-ride to the Costa Mar Aparthotel on the outskirts of the resort of Playa del Carmen where we were met by Gaby, the tour leader, who was German but lived in Barcelona where the tour operator used by Explore was based.
    My apartment had two double-bedrooms, a kitchen, lounge and bathroom plus a small terrace with a washing-line.
    The aparthotel had a number of blocks rising to three levels with terraces for some apartments, plus a swimming pool, a large reception, and a dining room. It was conveniently opposite a pharmacy and a SPAR supermarket, and just behind the main road running behind the wide black-sand beach. Snack lunches were purchased from this and other SPARs on the other islands.
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  • Day 3

    Femes to Playa de Queimada

    October 30, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    After a buffet breakfast, the group left for its first hike at 9.00. We went by mini-bus to Femes, a small village at the base of the southern mountains. The hike took us on a well-marked trail through the lunar, remote landscape of the Ajaches hills, down to a cove for lunch, and back up a hill before descending to the coast at Playa de Queimada for a drink, before driving back to the aparthotel.
    The weather was hazy but hot at 29 degrees.
    The 10km walk of 20,000 steps had a total ascent of 350 metres and a descent of 650 metres.
    The group went for dinner at a nearby restaurant which was in an area of tourist shops and restaurants in front of lots of white-washed apartments. The restaurants had very similar menus in Spanish, German and English.
    The group was Chris and Sue, Gill, Peter, Pavel, Caroline, Antonia, Jane, myself, and Gaby, the leader.
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  • Day 4

    Maguez to the Mirador del Rio

    October 31, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    The hike began from the village of Maguez close to the NW coast. There were some steep sections, some on lava ash or scree. We saw Mount Corona, a perfectly-shaped Strombolian volcano as described on one of the information boards along the path. There was lots of other evidence of volcanic activity; basalt cliffs, cones and lava fields. The cultivated fields were covered with lava dust to assist irrigation. There were disused terraces on the hillsides. Recent rain had added a green tinge to the volcanos and land.
    The path continued along the top of the cliffs of Famara, first to the Montana del Gayo with spectacular views across the Atlantic and surrounding cliffs, and finally reaching the Mirador del Rio after a few kilometres up a tarmac road. The Mirador is a 475 metre high viewpoint located at the edge of the Famara cliffs, built into the lava rock. The building, converted from a gun emplacement designed by local artist Cesar Manique, blends into the landscape, the floor to ceiling glass windows and outdoor walkway provide panoramic views across the El Rio strait towards Isla la Graciosa.
    As on the previous day, we had the paths more or less to ourselves. The hike was 14km with a total ascent of 550 metres and descent of 350 metres.
    The weather had cooled to the mid-20s. where it stayed for much of the rest of the trip.
    We had a nice dinner in a Spanish restaurant near the aparthotel.
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  • Day 5

    Parque Naturale de los Volcanes

    November 1, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We drove to the centre of Lanzarote, near the village of Mancha Blanca, for the start of a circular walk around the Parque Naturale de los Volcanes which is to the east of the Timanfaya National Park. The dirt paths went through lava fields and past the Volcanos Colorado, Negro and Cuervos. The rocks were black, red, yellow and green.
    We had lunch inside the Caldera de los Cuervos, better known as Volcán del Cuervo. This volcano is interesting because it was the first volcanic cone generated during the Timanfaya eruption, which took place between 1730 and 1736 and changed the landscape of Lanzarote, giving it an almost lunar appearance.
    The 10km walk had a total ascent and descent of 300 metres.
    In the afternoon, we went to Bodega Geria to drink wine from the Malvasia grapes, to eat tapas, and to see how the vines are protected from the prevailing winds by horseshoe lava walls.
    Dinner was at another Spanish restaurant near the aparthotel.
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  • Day 6

    Isla La Graciosa

    November 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Another warm and sunny day although breezy in the safternoon.
    On our free day, six of us took an inclusive trip for 35 Euro to the Isla La Graciosa opposite the north coast of Lanzarote. We went by coach, collecting other passengers at the resorts of Playa del Carmen and Teguise, before arriving after 100 minutes at Orzola from where we went by ferry for the 25 minute ride to Caleta de Sabo, the only village on the Isla. We had a great view of the Famara cliifs but couldn't see the well-hidden Mirador del Rio.
    The Isla has no paved roads, just tracks of sand blown westwards from the Western Sahara which has also covered much of the lava fields.
    Pavel and I walked for about 30 minutes before reaching the Volcan Vermelho, also known as Montana Bermeja, at the western tip of the island. We walked up 175 metres to the plateau at the top for great views over the island, including the sandy beaches and aquamarine sea below. Descending, we went to one of the clean beaches, and I splashed in the shallows, not venturing too far due to the steep shelving. Leaving Pavel there, I walked back to the village for a quick tapas before catching the ferry and coach home.
    We passed one of Lanzarote's desalination plants on the coast near the resort of Teguise.
    Isla Graciosa was declared to be the 8th Canary Island in 2018. It would be a great place to chill out for a few days on the beach and walking up the five peaks.
    We had dinner at an Indian restaurant, including kulfi ice-creams.
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  • Day 7

    Haria to the Caleta de Famara

    November 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We drove to the NW of Lanzarote to Haria, a pretty village of low-lying white-washed buildings situated in the fertile Valley of the Thousand Palm Trees, where was stopped for a coffee. Walking across the surrounding hills passing cultivated plots of fig trees and grape vines, we reached the clifftop area of Bosquecillo with great views down the Famara cliffs to the beach at Caleta de Famara. The elevation of the viewpoint near a military communications area was 670 metres., the highest point of the island as it often is where there is a military establishment.
    After lunch amongst the rocks on the clifftop, we descended down a ravine on a steep path to the 5km-long beach and the village of Caleta de Famara which is a centre of windsurfing, bodysurfing and kitesurfing on the big waves rolling in from the Atlantic, even despite the red flag flying on that day.
    The walk was 12km with 450 metres ascent and 650 metres of descent.
    After a drink and a sticky toffee pudding at an arty surfers' restaurant, we went by minibus to the former capital, Teguise, to see the historic centre.
    We returned to one of the better restaurants for dinner.
    Cesar Manrique was an artist and environmentalist, responsible for many of the art installations at roundabouts, and the absence of advertising billboards along the roads, a contrast with other islands such as Tenerife.
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  • Day 8

    Guatiza to Arrieta and Jardim de Cactus

    November 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We drove up the east coast to near the village of Guatiza where we started walking along trails leading to the coast where was saw waves crashing into the rocks. We walked north along the rugged coastline, passing some traditional but still operating salines, and nudist beaches., to the fishing village of Arrieta for refreshment.
    Later in the afternoon, we stopped at the very impressive Jardim de Cactus, designed by Cesar Manrique, which has one thousand cacti from around the world in a landscaped garden, plus a windmill.
    The walk was 15km with 100 metres of ascent and 250 metre of descent.
    The last night dinner was in Puerto del Carmen overlooking the sea. The town itself was very touristy with shops, restaurants, bars, and slot-machine arcades.
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  • Day 9

    Lanzarote to Gran Canaria

    November 5, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Having said goodbye to the group at breakfast, a taxi took me to the airport for the 13.30 Canary Air flight to Las Palmas in Gran Canaria where I was met by the Explore leader of the next week's holiday, Mateusz, who was from a Polish family, born in Norway, lived in Germany, and now lived in Pamplona.
    A taxi shared with Lisa took us to the Hotel Escuela Rural Casa de los Camellos in Aguimes which is situated in the hills overlooking the east coast of Gran Canaria. The narrow streets and houses of the historic centre of the town had been renovated.
    The hotel was an old house with two courtyards which had been owned by camel -owners.
    I had a Uruquay dulce de leche dessert and a coffee with Lisa in the afternoon followed by goat lasagne and an excellent salad for dinner with the rest of the group.
    The group consisted of Lisa from York, Hazel from Leicester, Andrew and Janice from Henley, Gavin from Northern Ireland, Sean from Bishops Stortford, Paul and Ann from Brighton, David from Chingford, Steve from Durham, Geoff from Weymouth, Tista from Clapham, Fiona from Leatherhead, and Catherine from Oxford.
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  • Day 10

    Guayadeque Canyon

    November 6, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    On the first of many sunny and warm days, and despite having been kept awake by the church bell ringing every hour during the night, the group walked from Aguimes along the Barranco de Guayadeque, stopping at the Cenro de Interpretation to learn about the cave dwellers. We continued up the gorge to the Cueva Bermejas for a drink at a cafe in the cave before ascending the cliffs to reach the top of the gorge, about 600m high, for lunch. We walked back to Aguimes through abandoned farm terraces. The walk was about 12 kms with 550 metres of ascent and descent.
    I walked around the pretty centre of Aguimes, entering the Iglesia de San Sebastion, and had a radler, a refreshing lager shandy and cheese cake. In the evening, we had an al fresco tapas dinner.
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  • Day 11

    Roque Nublo to La Aldea

    November 7, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We drove 90 minutes to the start of the walk up to the Roque Nublo, the plateau being about 1750m high. There were great views of the surrounding landscape. After a picnic lunch and a group photo, we descended to La Culata, the walk being about 4 kms each way with 460m of ascent and 520m of descent.
    We drove to the pretty village with white-washed houses of Tejada for afternoon refreshments and a view of Roque Bentayga.
    Due to a landslide, we had to make a detour and drive for 2 hours to Puerto de las Nieves and Agaete in the NW of the island and then down the dramatic GC200 road along the west coast. The road may be closed to vehicular traffic once all the tunnels are built. The La Aldea Tunnel is 2 miles long. Eventually, we arrived in La Aldea for a 3-night stay at the Hotel La Aldea Suites, a modern hotel with the BBC on the TV.
    There had been wonderful scenery with a clear blue sky all day.
    Dinner was a set menu at a local restaurant.
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