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Canada Road Trip 2023
  • Scott Paul
  • Scott Paul

Canada Road Trip 2023

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  • Début du voyage
    30 mai 2023
    Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Voyageur
    1

    Land of the Living Skies

    30 mai 2023, Canada ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Crossed the border to the Land of the Living Skies. Day one of our Cross Canada tour began with a stop in Taber to see Rod and ended in the Cypress Hills on the Saskatchewan side.

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  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Voyageur
    1

    Saskatchewan Colours

    1 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    From stands of bright yellow buffalo bean flowers, to spring green Cypress hills, to Canada-red serged Mounties, to the purple of liberated lilacs from Consul, to the deep black head of a lone, roadside buffalo as we entered Grasslands National Park, it is the colours of the day I will remember.En savoir plus

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  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Voyageur

    Back Roads

    2 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    In the last few days of driving the back roads of Saskatchewan, we’ve crossed over more cattle guards than met other vehicles. Small towns post billboard-size signs marking their native sons who made it to the NHL. Today it was Val Marie’s turn to celebrate Bryan Trottier, winner of 7 Stanley Cup rings).

    So far, the locals are far friendlier than the tourists.

    Todays quirks included the forlorn carcass of a grand old car abandoned in the corner of a pasture, and cowboy boots on the tops of fence posts.    En savoir plus

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  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Voyageur

    To Hell and Back

    3 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Ten kilometres … that’s the distance through The Valley of a Thousand Devils and daring to cross Hellfire Basin, not once but twice mind you.

    It has been a grand and active day — a 24 km cycle through the Badlands in the morning, and the devilish grasslands circuit hike this afternoon to cap the day.

    Thunder roars ominously over the coulee as the sun bakes down on us. What’s next … fire and brimstone?    En savoir plus

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  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Voyageur

    The Giant and the Mobster

    4 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    “Go to Willowbunch, birthplace of Canada’s tallest man,” the camper told Coleen.

    And so yesterday, we were the first, early-morning tourists knocking on the convent door that has swapped out black-robed nuns for prairie relics in this tiny town. A whole room was dedicated to the story of Edouard Beaupre who grew to the fantastical height of 8’ 3 inches. Died at the age of 23, touring as part of the Ringling Brothers freak show. A shortened life for a tall man.

    Down the road, Moose Jaw delighted us with secret downtown tunnels, Al Capone’s Prohibition era connection to the city’s whiskey trade, and dozens of murals in the historic city centre. Gorgeous old brick and stone buildings with dates going back over a century carved into lintels. And of course, an independent bookseller. What’s there not to love?    En savoir plus

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  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Voyageur

    Clipping Along

    5 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Our days begin early, literally up with the dawn. Last night we boon docked at the Moose Jaw Walmart with about 5 other stingy campers. It worked out far better than I expected. Actually slept!

    During our last full day in Saskatchewan we allowed the province of small towns to reveal itself … a giant red paper clip in Kipling with a larger than life backstory, and a scaled down Eiffel Tower in Montmartre.

    We’ve landed in Moose Mountain park for the night, delightfully different than our Walmart sojourn.

    Reflecting on the last week, Saskatchewan’s roads are not so flat if you venture off the TransCanada, the small towns have been well worth the stop, and it is far greener than I imagined.

    Now onto the next province where Manitoba adventures await.    En savoir plus

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  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Voyageur
    1

    Beating the Heat

    6 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Finnegan’s form of air conditioning is rolling the van windows down as the Prairie heat wave has followed us from Saskatchewan into Manitoba. So we are trying all manner of ways to keep cool — Haagen Daz floats, soaked t-shirt for me, dress for Coleen, Fringe Festival fans, and plenty of water.

    Kai, the splash-down boy, assured me that he had jumped off the Souris swinging bridge a dozen times. He tempted fate by jumping a 13th time and asked me to text a picture of his shenanigans to his mother. She promptly texted back …

    “Damn boy, thirteen shall be fun.”

    Well, to each their own way of cooling off, regardless of age.    En savoir plus

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  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Voyageur
    1

    Day of Rest

    7 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ 🌧 30 °C

    After 8 days of touring and 1,800 kilometres of travel, we took a sojourn in Spruce Woods Provincial Park to read, rest and reflect. Lazy day cycling part of the TransCanada Trail and chilling out with books.

    News of the wildfires and smoke in eastern Canada makes me think our pace is a good one and we shouldn’t leave the clear skies and clean air of Manitoba too soon.

    We’ve shared our sandy campsite with two energetic squirrels and one far too inquisitive raccoon I shooed off with a shout the other night.    En savoir plus

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  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Voyageur
    The LeafCanadian Museum of Human Rights

    Discovery

    9 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Our day began in discovery and enlightenment before ending in disillusionment.

    The morning would see us at the Canadian Indigenous Residential School Museum in Portage la Prairies, the exhibits housed in a former residential school. No one available to take us on a tour but the displays were nevertheless haunting. A scar on our national identity.

    In Winnipeg, The Leaf is a conservatory on steroids, gorgeous architecture housing all manner of exotic plants, and the surrounding gardens also impressive.

    It took a bit of a doing to get down to the Forks where the Canadian Museum of Human Rights is situated in downtown Winnipeg. Again, outside and inside, the architecture is stunning. As we toured the museum over the course of about 3 hours (think Holocaust, residential schools, Japanese-Canadian internment, etc), thieves were stealing Coleen’s new bike off our rack (jimmy-ing the lock and slashing the tire hold downs) but leaving my 35+ year cycle untouched. The next day we trawled the Internet ocean searching for a used bike … and Kijiji came through. A few steps down from Coleen’s Kona, but hopefully less attractive to the discerning felon crowd.    En savoir plus

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  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Voyageur

    Whiteshell Provincial Park

    11 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We enjoyed some much needed nature therapy in our two-day stay at Whiteshell.

    Biplane dragonflies led us down glittering forest paths. A butterfly and hummingbird amused us at a lake lookout. A deer in the early morning, grazing behind our van. The paths are so different from our mountain hikes, but beautiful.

    All trails incorporate a piece of the Canadian shield as we walk along an exposed spine or scrabble up a rock face with a rope assist. It is tiger lily season right now and they are in their glory. In addition to other flowers captured digitally by Coleen who is also in her glory!    En savoir plus

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  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Voyageur

    You Wear Fun Well

    13 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    … said the store clerk after asking Coleen and I if we were retired. This trip has awakened our travel kraken. Each day a voyage of discovery, something new around the curve, a serendipitous conversation that sends us off the beaten path. Life is good and fun is fashionable.En savoir plus

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  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Voyageur

    I Gave at the Office

    14 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    The mosquitoes in northern Ontario are not buying this line. They come in swarms on the trail, and, when we are in the parked van, eagerly await an open door, their evil little faces looking inside for their next meal. It’s apparently a worse than average year for the buggers. Blood spatter experts would have a field day examining the interior of our van. The massacre goes both ways.En savoir plus

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  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Voyageur

    Explore

    15 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    … we continue to explore Northern Ontario, taking side trips off the TransCanada today to visit the jaw-dropping Ouimet Canyon, flip a loonie at the Nipigon Bridge (the loon won .. so southern route it is), and crossing the 49th parallel on a river hike.
    On a sad note, a small town grocery store’s ice cream refrigeration unit malfunctioned, leaving empty freezer shelves and our dairy hopes dashed. We were crushed … if only ever so briefly.    En savoir plus

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  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Voyageur
    3

    Of Rocks and Bears

    16 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    While driving to a waterfall today we saw a momma black bear and her three cubs on the side of the forest-lined road. They scampered off into the bush and climbed up a tree faster than a jack rabbit on a first date. Yet to see a moose except posted on highway signs as a “Night Danger”, and all manner of sculptures, T-shirts and the like.
    For rock enthusiasts, and I count myself in that group, Pebble Beach at Marathon is heaven. For centuries, Lake Superior has tumbled these stones into smooth, roundish rocks — hardly pebbles at all. So many rocks … that will have to wait for our return trip home.
    We rewarded our rock restraint with a San Pellegrino float. Sooo good.    En savoir plus

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  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Voyageur

    Forest Sounds

    16 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Heard today on our 6-hour hike to the White River Suspension Bridge in Pukaskwa National Park … The murmur of a distant waterfall, the click clacking of our pole tips on centuries-old rock, the twittering of birds, the whisper of wind in the tree canopy, the cracking of birchbark sheaves underfoot, the growling behind me, the little yelp of hysteria jumping out of my throat … (to be continued)En savoir plus

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  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Voyageur

    Ruffled Feathers

    19 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    … so I may have exaggerated a bit in my last cliffhanger post. It was less a growl from a bear and more like a squawk from a pissed off momma grouse. This was the third encounter with the northern Ontario ruffed grouse that got our hearts a racin’. Puffed out neck and tail feathers, chasing us back up the trail, the grouse showed Coleen and I that she was “large and in charge”.
    Having been chased around our van in the foothills of the Rockies a couple of seasons ago, I gave this momma grouse the respect and distance she wanted.    En savoir plus

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  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Voyageur

    Small Towns

    20 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Small towns … oh how I love them. Whether it’s Carberry, Maple Creek, or Thessalon, there is a peaceful and nostalgic feel to them. Yesterday, in Thessalon, we were able to locate the sister of a Lethbridge acquaintance by asking three random strangers, the last one who knew our friend. So Isobel, we found your sister’s place but she was not at home.

    As I looked down Main Street and saw some of the boarded up windows, rusting signs and crumbling brickwork. I am trying to imagine these towns in their heyday, when new Buick cars rambled down the streets, men tipping their hats to the ladies. After a Sunday service, the priest welcoming the parishioners on the front steps of a century old Church.

    There’s still a sliver of that hometown, down to earth sensibility of the place, but it is vanishing as well, which is sad.    En savoir plus

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  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Voyageur
    1

    Reading on the Road

    21 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Our mission to go to an independent bookseller in each province continued yesterday in Sudbury with Bay’s Used Books. We dutifully donned our Analog Books t-shirts and took pictures in front of their wonderful two-story murals.

    We entered a warren of bookshelves, nooks, and crannies, with the written word surrounding us. Coleen got a map to guide her though this literary labyrinth. I eventually found her in Canadiana with the help of security cam footage and an employee.

    Unlike the resident cat Hugo at Analog Books, Bay’s Used Books’ feline mascot is an orange plushy named Crookshanks. Delightful hour or so surrounded by books. We are starting to acquire our own library in the van where space is at a premium.    En savoir plus

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  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Voyageur

    Distant Relatives

    23 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    What’s that old saw? When people are doing their family tree, there’s a whole lot of pruning going on. But in this case I truly am related to the inventor of basketball — James Naismith — who is celebrated here in his hometown of Almonte.

    My great, great grandfather Allan Paul emigrated to Canada from Scotland pre-Confederation. He took a fancy to a Jean Naismith from Almonte and the Paul line continued.

    What would have been a wee little town back in the day now boasts grand brick churches, a bustling little downtown, and a baker named Bob. These small towns are a joy to explore.    En savoir plus

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  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Voyageur

    Ottawa

    24 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    A good chunk of my first novel, The Sunbeam Room, was set in Ottawa. So it was joy today to visit the house that my protagonist Sarah lived in, walk up Elgin Street and scout out potential cafes where she and Digger, her half-brother from Alberta, first met, and traverse Wellington Street, the site of the Ottawa occupation.

    We have been fortunate to be hosted by my writing partner Laura Cohen. We’ve laughed, drank French wine, and so enjoyed her company. A good day.    En savoir plus

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  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Voyageur

    Ann

    25 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    When the Paul family moved to Rainier in the summer of 1974, we only knew a few families. Little did I know that our neighbours up the road — a widow and her two children would become such fast friends.

    Ann Nyenhuis and her family left a war ravaged Europe to make Canada their home. She brought a zest for life, beautiful smile, and resiliency to each day that I look back now and find remarkable.

    While living in Edmonton, Ann’s husband died and a young woman now had two children to raise on her own. She moved to Rainier where her brother Casey farmed and set about raising her daughter Anneke and son Dick. No surprise that they exemplified their mother— each of them sharing an enthusiasm for life, and bringing positivity to the world.

    Ann was a good friend to my mother, a community minded person and was always up for some new adventure. She lived life fully.

    Sad news came to us on the road. Ann died last week and I miss her — here so many provinces away. Her funeral is today. The downside of travel is not being there to pay my respects. I am so fortunate that our lives intersected and knowing that Ann lives on through her children, grandchildren and great grandchildren. Thinking of you Ann today … and the legacy, the gifts you have left our world.    En savoir plus

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  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Voyageur

    Inked

    26 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Lazy post …

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  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Voyageur

    Love, Love, Loving It

    27 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    Charming country lanes, covered bridges, farm-fresh strawberries, smelly French cheese, modern art instalments, new-to-me signs, high school French attempts, Colonial architecture, patient locals … the Eastern Townships … love, love, loving them.En savoir plus

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  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Voyageur

    Stay on the Sidewalk

    28 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    … and no one gets detained by trigger-happy American border guards. The Haskell Free Library & Opera House straddles the Canadian-USA border. A black line runs through the building marking which side of the border you are on.

    To access the library as a Canadian, you technically cross into American soil without having to report to customs so long as … and this is very important … you stay on the sidewalk and go immediately to the Haskell. In the opera house, one sits in the audience on the American side, watching the actors perform on the Canadian side. A wonderful quirky place and the Vermont tour guide with her feline feet was happy to take us back stage ( Canada) and the opera balcony (USA).

    Borders are often the stuff of challenging questions, production of identification and secondary searches. Not so in Stanstead, Quebec … so long as you stay on the sidewalk.    En savoir plus

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