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Canada Road Trip 2023
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  • Scott Paul

Canada Road Trip 2023

An open-ended adventure by Scott Read more
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  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Traveler

    What Does the Fox Say?

    August 8, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Red foxes are big here in Prince Edward Island. Millions of dollars were made back in the early 20th century when fox fashion was all the rage in Europe. Overnight, fox breeders became rich, buying fancy cars and building mansions.

    If a fox had followed our vintage van today what would he have said?

    He’d have seen us visiting parabolic sand dunes on the north coast, crossing a pontoon bridge, surrounded by acres of cattails, and eating a sumptuous dinner of PEI mussels, Cajun shrimp salad, and the best damn crab cakes known to man.

    That’s what the fox would say.

    If he knew English of course.    Read more

  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Traveler

    Anticipation

    August 6, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    I pen this post in a small Acadien community hall on the south west coast of Prince Edward Island, awaiting la Famille Leblanc to begin performing. There is a pre-concert buzz in the community centre in both official languages.

    A duo of spotlit guitars stand upright on the stage waiting to be strummed; a bodhran drum on the painted black stage nearby. The microphones are silent now, but in five minutes I expect will be switched on and the music will begin.

    The CDs for the three musical acts — a country and western singer, the New Brunswick Acadien family, and an unbalanced PEI fiddler — lay on a side table along with signage for the ubiquitous 50/50 ticket draw.

    This is our third musical performance in as many nights. Last night’s spectacle was in a very modern Summerside theatre hall. It was called Highland Storm which mirrored the day’s weather when the skies darkened and the winds rocked Charlottetown.

    Pedestrians ran for shelter and failed umbrellas brought comic relief to two travellers warm and dry in their van. What’s that German word? Schadenfreude.

    The weather this last week has been inconsistent but not the music. It has been consistently good, delivered with joy, panache and talent.

    Gotta stop now. The music is about to begin.    Read more

  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Traveler

    Linger Longer

    August 4, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    It took us over thirty years to return to Prince Edward Island and after a successful coolant tank repair of our van, I want to linger a while on this lovely isle.

    There’s a relaxed and friendly vibe to the place and this was evident at the ceilidh hosted by the Irish Benevolent Society last night in Charlottetown. There was a folksy feel to the venue, like an old community hall, and the musicians and tap dancers filled the room with music, energy, and laughter. At the intermission, biscuits, small sandwiches, cookies and tea were set out … at 9:00 PM. It was quaint and not all contrived.

    The Irish Scots are made up of a song-writing Celtic bodhran drummer, a devil be charmed guitarist, and a virtuoso fiddler. There was a ton of talent on stage. Throw in intermittent tap dance performances by two world class performers and it was a memorable evening.

    I like it here.

    So we may just have to linger.    Read more

  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Traveler

    Boon Docking

    August 2, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Also known as random camping, think of Boondocking as couch surfing for RVs. It conjures up, romantic notions of parking on some secluded beach, with an unobstructed view of a setting sun, sinking into the ocean, the place to yourself.

    And it’s free. You can’t see it, but my inner Scotsman is doing a jig right now.

    We’ve done our fair share of Boondocking in Walmart parking lots under sodium lights that make us thankful for our eye masks.

    But last night, at Baxters Cove we had the ultimate Boondock. We had the place to ourselves, the sound of the surf lapping against the shore, cattails gently swaying with the breeze.

    Bliss.

    And did I mention it’s free?    Read more

  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Traveler

    Toe Tapping

    August 1, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    When was the last time you had lunch featuring live fiddle music? It has been a while for me as well. Today, you would have seen my feet keeping in time with Joe MacIsaac’s boots as he fiddled us through our meal and yummy Warm Gingerbread Cake with Rum Sauce.

    It was as a toe-tapping good time. I think some of these kids are born with a fiddle in their hand which must makes childbirth here on the Island a painful experience indeed.    Read more

  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Traveler
    1

    Wet, Wet, Wet

    July 31, 2023 in Canada ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    My front tire sluiced through torrents of water streaming over the sidewalk as I cycled like a fiend through the rain storm. There was no pretense at keeping a single inch of my body dry, cars on the road throwing up swales of water, soaking me with each pass by. My runners squelched and my soaking wet tie die shirt felt like a heavy second skin. How had it all come to this?

    Our day began with an energetic cycle on back dirt roads along the scenic Cape Breton coastline, gentle rolls of waves breaking on rocky beaches. Determined to keep those two wheels moving, in the late morning we biked a 27-km stretch of the Celtic Shores Coastal Trail — a repurposed rail line for cyclists in the summer and snowmobilers in the winter.

    So far so good. But it was the decision to bike a short 2 kilometres to Route 19 Brewery that was the fatal mistake. That and leaving the screened windows on our van open.

    As we sat on the microbrewery deck, a few raindrops began to fall. Our waitress jumped up at the first concussive boom of thunder. And then the storm came full on as we sought dry sanctuary in the brewery. The rain poured down from grey skies when we remembered the open windows.

    And so I volunteered to cycle back and return for Coleen with the van. Chivalry may not be dead, but I can assure you it is most definitely wet, wet, wet.    Read more

  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Traveler

    A Rock in the Stream

    July 31, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    On our first day back in Nova Scotia, you would have found us at the Broad Cove Scottish Concert— an annual music festival since 1957. The venue is postcard pretty, located in a grassy meadow behind the St. Margaret Church of Scotland and a sprawling graveyard.

    Notwithstanding the nearby century-old headstones, it was a lively affair in the meadow. One of our favourite bands, the Barra McNeil‘s were the headline performers, but prior to them, a host of local fiddlers, highland dancers, singers, pipers, and church choirs showed off their musical chops.

    It was a delightful affair, kids, running around, dancing on the grass, all beneath a dramatic Nova Scotia skyscape. Coming off the Newfoundland ferry, well rested, made a big difference because we had the energy to both find the festival and partake in its musical magic.

    “ We are an island, a rock in the stream.”    Read more

  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Traveler

    Taking Stock

    July 29, 2023 in Canada ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    We have gone as far east in Canada as we can go and our 3-week ramble around Newfoundland has come to a close. The Argentia Ferry to Nova Scotia awaits. A wee bit of a killer — 16 hours.

    We now follow our shadows to the west, with each cycle of the sun drawing us closer to home. It’s time to take stock …

    By the numbers:
    — this is day 61 of our TransCanada tour
    — we’ve travelled 13,000 kilometres
    — aside from Alberta, we’ve biked, hiked and ambled in 7 provinces
    — gas has cost us anywhere from $1.49 to $1.83 per litre
    — we’ve boon docked 17 times
    — we’ve seen moose, deer, black bears, raccoons, whales, puffins, ducks, Canada geese, buffalo, cows, horses, fish, hummingbirds, lobsters, pronghorns— a veritable Canadian Noah’s Ark.

    While we have been gone, news reached us of the death of my Aunt Pat and a dear family friend Ann Nyenhuis. Coleen and I marked our 39th wedding anniversary yesterday and the Earth continued to spin. I am reminded of Ferris Bueller’s comment … “Life moves pretty fast. If you don’t stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.”

    Thanks to all of you who have followed this travel blog and pitched in with a heart or comment. One can get disconnected on the road, but it’s been a treat to have you looking over my shoulder and close despite the distances.    Read more

  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Traveler

    Land Ho

    July 26, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Imagine yourself in the 15th century in the middle of the Atlantic in a small boat (by today’s standards) captained by a Venetian who has this crazy notion that the world is not flat. And … he’s figured out a shortcut to China by sailing west from England across uncharted waters.

    You’ve been at sea for 34 days. Perhaps you’re up in the crows nest trying to keep down your breakfast of salt fish, hard tack and ale, as the seas lurch the good ship Mathew back and forth. Is that a form on the horizon good old terra firma or has your imagination gotten the best of you. No — that’s land — Newfoundland.

    You’re about to alert the crew when from the deck below you hear the sonorous Italian voice of Giovanni Caboto cry out LAND HO — but in Italian of course. You’ve made it.    Read more

  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Traveler

    Bonavista

    July 25, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Growing up I had heard of Bonavista, this beautiful part of Newfoundland. I’d have to say it lives up to its billing — rugged sea coast, beautiful old historical buildings, magical puffins, and a rich heritage. From fish merchants to sealers, kitchen parties, sailing boats, clothes on a line flapping in the wind,and of course the great big blue as far as one can see. Indeed a beautiful view.Read more

  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Traveler
    1

    Dear John

    July 25, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    I wonder what John Cabot would have thought of Newfoundland some 500 years after first making landfall on the Bonavista Peninsula.

    Today, he would have seen brightly painted houses in Trinity, a mummers parade in Bonavista (billed as Christmas in July), and a world-renowned coastal hike with the cutest of names — Skerwink Trail.

    John would still recognize the beauty of the place, the blow spouts of whales feeding off shore, the screeching of seagulls the Charlie Chaplin walk of the puffins, and the purple irises dotting the landscape in the summer.

    New found land — for both John and for me some five centuries later.    Read more

  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Traveler

    Home is …

    July 23, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    If home is a place name, then we returned yesterday afternoon to Lethbridge … Newfoundland. Didn’t have the same vibe as hometown.

    The house with grass growing on its roof was home to an outport fisherman’s family at one time. The hare we encountered on the Chance Cove coastal walk calls the forest home. And the moose — introduced to the island over a century ago, call everywhere home. Even highways at night.

    Fortunately, early this morning the two moose we saw skedaddled into the bush as we approached them on a rainy, curvy stretch of road. For now, our home has four wheels, a pull out couch for a bed, a two burner propane stove, and a temperamental refrigerator. But lotsa love within these glass and steel walls.    Read more

  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Traveler
    1

    Big Island, Small Community

    July 22, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Finnegan, our 1986 van, began dripping coolant shortly after we arrived on the west coast of Newfoundland. I connected online with the Happy Campers of Newfoundland — 200+ stalwart VW van owners.

    Over the past 10 days, we had Steve in Humber Village do a temporary repair, Ambrose in Boyd Cove root around in an old Westy for a part, and Scott in Topsail receive our online order and replace the coolant tank. No one would take one thin dime for their labours.

    Along the way, we’ve had serendipitous encounters with other VW owners and fans. Like the person who left a note under our windshield. And once you get talking to a Westy owner, there are tales to be told.    Read more

  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Traveler

    Carefree Highway

    July 20, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We’ve been on the road almost 8 weeks and today found us about as far east as our travels will take us (short of hopping on a steamer and heading over to Ireland) — St. John’s, Newfoundland. It is a city akin to San Francisco — historical and hilly. A real test on one’s legs.

    Jelly Bean Row — known for its colour wheel of townhouse exteriors wowed us. A delicious meal of cod cheeks, salmon, and chef-inspired brussel sprouts sustained us. The deep voice and guitar strumming of a talented musician entertained us. He played two of my all time favourite songs — Mr Bojangles and Fields of Gold.

    The highway has been good to us — cares swept away by a slower pace to life and the thrill of new adventures each day.    Read more

  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Traveler

    This is My Cathedral

    July 18, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Meet Gord, a retired lighthouse keeper, full-time philosopher, and local walker. We met him below a lighthouse he once kept. Friendly fellow who enthused that Long Point cove was his “cathedral.”

    And it’s easy to share in his zeal. Icebergs, breaching whales, and a sea horizon that stretched out until the thin line separating ocean and sky becomes indistinguishable.

    We saw more icebergs today along with whales surfacing, blowholes announcing their arrival and then their fabulously wide tails gracefully swooping up and back down to disappear under the waves, ending the breath-held moment.

    Nature’s cathedral indeed.    Read more

  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Traveler

    First Sighting & A Welcome

    July 18, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    There’s a scene in the Polar Express when the train arrives at the North Pole and a wide-eyed child calls out in amazement … “Elves!”

    That’s how I felt like last night as we crested a hill in Twillingate Harbour and saw our first iceberg from a distance. Pure excitement.

    Hope to see more today but like your first kiss, you never forget your first iceberg sighting.

    Oh and we were officially welcomed to Central Newfoundland by Jim and Ray who saw our Westfalia down by the Birchy Bay boat launch and had to check us out. They were so enthusiastic about the area and 45 minutes later left us with stories, a primer on cod fishing and seafood, recommendations on where to go and what to eat, and broad smiles on our faces.

    Later that night at a dockside, seafood restaurant, the table across from us struck up a conversation. Proud Newfoundlanders who wanted to share the beauty of their province and were happy to answer our questions. Before leaving the marina, the one fellow came over and said your tab’s been paid. Just remember to pay it forward. This act of island generosity capped a beautiful day.    Read more

  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Traveler

    Ending on a High Note

    July 16, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    The climb to the summit of Gros Morne Mountain capped a wonderful week at this national park. It is hard to capture in words or photographs the beauty or scale of the place. It is massively gorgeous.

    The climb up the mountain and then down over six hours was not for the faint of heart or the weak of knee. The ascent was made easier by a chatty couple of girls (Trinity and Sierra) and their father from Ottawa. I think the girls were missing their mother for they sure liked talking to Coleen.

    What has impressed me so much about Gros Morne is that each trail is so, so different — challenging for sure but oh so rewarding. Sea views, inland fjords, serpentine lakes in hanging valleys, mountain paths, secluded coves with sandy beaches. I think I’m in love.    Read more

  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Traveler

    Colour Me Lucky

    July 16, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    From a cherry- red Triumph, to the classic, maritime blues and butter yellows, to the soft pink and purple lupins lining the ditches, it has been a colourful day here in Newfoundland.

    The sports car belongs to Steve Hicks, member of the VW Happy Campers Facebook group who worked on our coolant leak, refusing all payment. Sadly the fix wasn’t a complete success but Steve gave us a contact (a fellow Westy cheerleader) and an address to order a new part in St John’s. Fingers crossed, we will limp into the provincial capital for the repair by month’s end.

    Steve is a colourful character, retired mechanical engineer, owns a 1973 VW bus, and attended the Woodstock reprise concert a few years back with his wife Mary. Has about 6-7 restoration projects on the go at any one time.

    So each time I find the tell-tale lime green coolant under our van, I say to myself … chin up, keep on going … you’re a lucky, lucky man. Newfoundland in July … it can’t get much better than this.    Read more

  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Traveler

    Easy Peasy, Lemon Squeezy

    July 11, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    On our hike to Old Man’s Cove we had the good fortune of meeting Michelle and her elderly mother Andres from St. Johns. When we asked about finding a particular trail, Michelle confidently rattled off some directions, finishing with “easy peasy, lemon squeezy.” When asked if that was a Newfoundland saying, Michelle wasn’t sure, remarking that she’d be saying it since she was a young girl.

    Andres offered up some Newfoundland definitions when the conversation turned to food. “Fish” means “cod”, and “meat” means “beef.” And “bake apple” refers to “cloud berry” and has nothing to do with baking or apples.

    We are still learning the lingo here on Day 4 in Newfoundland. So far it has been anything but “easy peasy, lemon squeezy.” But a delight to the ear.    Read more

  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Traveler

    A Tale of Two Trails

    July 10, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    They were once two trails.

    Not so very far from each other. In fact, just across the road but separated by about 4 kilometres. Gros Morne is is a national park, and we have come to expect a certain level of trail standard. So how different could these valley twins be?

    The first trail was well marked and flat as it traversed across the Tablelands, a Mars-like land of red with rocks over 500 million years old. Like a desert, not much appears to grow on this inhospitable, rocky terrain table until you get up close, and then, at least in early July, there are wildflowers and waterfalls and wizened, low juniper bushes. An easy stroll for the most part. Defined track, obvious trailhead and end.

    Down the road, at first blush the other track had a number of things going for it. The slope had trees to shade us from the hot sun, the challenge of elevation gain, and the promise of some seaside views. Unfortunately, we went to the wrong trailhead, and we’re advised by one of the few people in the parking lot that the trail was closed at the suspension bridge. We thought what the heck we can go that far.

    The trail closure date was signed as 2019. So we thought we can soldier on. However, Parks Canada has essentially given up on this trail and nature has begun to reclaim it. Once pristine boardwalks are now broken and tilted.

    Trees and shrubs encroach upon and obscure the trail. Having thrown caution to the wind, we reeled it back in after 45 minutes of bushwhacking and some not so silent regrets.

    Driving down the road to our campsite, alongside the road, we saw the trail head of the actual hike that the Visitor Centre had recommended. Feeling sheepish, we resolved to hike the real trail tomorrow.    Read more

  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Traveler

    OMG — Gros Morne

    July 9, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    The dream became a reality today as sunny skies opened up to to reveal the grandeur that is Gros Morne National Park. It is stunningly beautiful and we’ve only seen a small slice — the drive into the tranquil Trout River Campground.

    Steep mountains, escarpments and lakes everywhere your eyes could see. A river of fog rolled over mountain ridges as we ascended a steep hill, looking … like time lapse footage in a nature documentary.

    Living the dream here in Gros Morne.    Read more

  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Traveler

    The Bog

    July 8, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    The water seeped up out of the bog, soaking our hikers despite careful foot placement. Our first day in Newfoundland, bleary-eyed from sleeping upright on a ferry chair, and now just hours off the boat, we were squelching away on a coastal trail unlike any other I’ve walked. Having fun? You betcha!

    The ground we traversed over felt like walking on a carpet of wet sponges. But what a habitat for wild flowers, drop-dead-gorgeous irises, pink clover, and yellow buttercups. And did I mention the tiny little strawberries about half the size of my pinky fingernail?

    Fatigue would eventually catch up with us later that day. But a grand start to our Newfoundland adventure. Now, just gotta dry out those boots. Look … another strawberry. Squelch!    Read more

  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Traveler

    Hello Newfoundland

    July 7, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Farewell to New Brunswick and Nova Scotia … that time went quickly. Four nights in the former, and only two in the latter. The curse of the impromptu reservation made two weeks ago. Our pace will be much slower on the return.

    Still I have enormous expectations for Newfoundland. It feels like we are embarking upon travel to a foreign land. The frisson of boarding the ferry — with all its attendant waiting and queues, the safety video, and the disjointed sleep of the passengers. The crossing time from Nova Scotia to the Rock is about the same as a transatlantic flight, adding to that sense of adventure.

    So this upcoming Saturday (tomorrow) promises to be both the day of the dead as we negotiate a full day on a few winks of sleep, and the excitement of a travelling through a province whose reputation is as big and friendly as the people who inhabit it.

    Hello Newfoundland.    Read more

  • Scott PaulCanada Road Trip 2023Traveler

    The Beaten Track

    July 7, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Our dash thru Nova Scotia to catch the North Sydney ferry to Newfoundland continued today, much of it on the beaten track, visiting Baddeck where the scientific luminary who invented the telephone— Alexander Graham Bell — turned his brilliant mind to airplanes and hydrofoils.

    We did find more solitude on a 2 -hour hike up Salt Mountain and its four look offs (not lookouts). A vigorous workout and great ramble.

    But a ferry awaits. Tomorrow we wake up in another province. Farewell Nova Scotia.    Read more

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