Canada Road Trip 2023

May 2023 - June 2024
An open-ended adventure by Scott Read more
Currently traveling
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  • 1countries
  • 379days
  • 537photos
  • 19videos
  • 17.1kkilometers
  • 4.6kkilometers
  • Day 38

    The Band Played On

    July 6, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    On our first full day in Nova Scotia, music found us— a noon hour concert at the Tidal Bore in Truro, and later in Antigonish an outdoor ceilidh whose fiddle and short pipe reels, jigs, and airs had my Scottish toes a tapping.

    The ceilidh was hosted at a repurposed wooden train station that has been converted into a museum. During one set of Scottish reels we heard the not so distant blare of a train horn and soon a locomotive and rails cars were rumbling by not more than 20 yards from the audience. The band played on … at least for a wee bit.
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  • Day 39

    The Beaten Track

    July 7, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Our dash thru Nova Scotia to catch the North Sydney ferry to Newfoundland continued today, much of it on the beaten track, visiting Baddeck where the scientific luminary who invented the telephone— Alexander Graham Bell — turned his brilliant mind to airplanes and hydrofoils.

    We did find more solitude on a 2 -hour hike up Salt Mountain and its four look offs (not lookouts). A vigorous workout and great ramble.

    But a ferry awaits. Tomorrow we wake up in another province. Farewell Nova Scotia.
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  • Day 39

    Hello Newfoundland

    July 7, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Farewell to New Brunswick and Nova Scotia … that time went quickly. Four nights in the former, and only two in the latter. The curse of the impromptu reservation made two weeks ago. Our pace will be much slower on the return.

    Still I have enormous expectations for Newfoundland. It feels like we are embarking upon travel to a foreign land. The frisson of boarding the ferry — with all its attendant waiting and queues, the safety video, and the disjointed sleep of the passengers. The crossing time from Nova Scotia to the Rock is about the same as a transatlantic flight, adding to that sense of adventure.

    So this upcoming Saturday (tomorrow) promises to be both the day of the dead as we negotiate a full day on a few winks of sleep, and the excitement of a travelling through a province whose reputation is as big and friendly as the people who inhabit it.

    Hello Newfoundland.
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  • Day 40

    The Bog

    July 8, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    The water seeped up out of the bog, soaking our hikers despite careful foot placement. Our first day in Newfoundland, bleary-eyed from sleeping upright on a ferry chair, and now just hours off the boat, we were squelching away on a coastal trail unlike any other I’ve walked. Having fun? You betcha!

    The ground we traversed over felt like walking on a carpet of wet sponges. But what a habitat for wild flowers, drop-dead-gorgeous irises, pink clover, and yellow buttercups. And did I mention the tiny little strawberries about half the size of my pinky fingernail?

    Fatigue would eventually catch up with us later that day. But a grand start to our Newfoundland adventure. Now, just gotta dry out those boots. Look … another strawberry. Squelch!
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  • Day 41

    OMG — Gros Morne

    July 9, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    The dream became a reality today as sunny skies opened up to to reveal the grandeur that is Gros Morne National Park. It is stunningly beautiful and we’ve only seen a small slice — the drive into the tranquil Trout River Campground.

    Steep mountains, escarpments and lakes everywhere your eyes could see. A river of fog rolled over mountain ridges as we ascended a steep hill, looking … like time lapse footage in a nature documentary.

    Living the dream here in Gros Morne.
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  • Day 42

    A Tale of Two Trails

    July 10, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    They were once two trails.

    Not so very far from each other. In fact, just across the road but separated by about 4 kilometres. Gros Morne is is a national park, and we have come to expect a certain level of trail standard. So how different could these valley twins be?

    The first trail was well marked and flat as it traversed across the Tablelands, a Mars-like land of red with rocks over 500 million years old. Like a desert, not much appears to grow on this inhospitable, rocky terrain table until you get up close, and then, at least in early July, there are wildflowers and waterfalls and wizened, low juniper bushes. An easy stroll for the most part. Defined track, obvious trailhead and end.

    Down the road, at first blush the other track had a number of things going for it. The slope had trees to shade us from the hot sun, the challenge of elevation gain, and the promise of some seaside views. Unfortunately, we went to the wrong trailhead, and we’re advised by one of the few people in the parking lot that the trail was closed at the suspension bridge. We thought what the heck we can go that far.

    The trail closure date was signed as 2019. So we thought we can soldier on. However, Parks Canada has essentially given up on this trail and nature has begun to reclaim it. Once pristine boardwalks are now broken and tilted.

    Trees and shrubs encroach upon and obscure the trail. Having thrown caution to the wind, we reeled it back in after 45 minutes of bushwhacking and some not so silent regrets.

    Driving down the road to our campsite, alongside the road, we saw the trail head of the actual hike that the Visitor Centre had recommended. Feeling sheepish, we resolved to hike the real trail tomorrow.
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  • Day 43

    Easy Peasy, Lemon Squeezy

    July 11, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    On our hike to Old Man’s Cove we had the good fortune of meeting Michelle and her elderly mother Andres from St. Johns. When we asked about finding a particular trail, Michelle confidently rattled off some directions, finishing with “easy peasy, lemon squeezy.” When asked if that was a Newfoundland saying, Michelle wasn’t sure, remarking that she’d be saying it since she was a young girl.

    Andres offered up some Newfoundland definitions when the conversation turned to food. “Fish” means “cod”, and “meat” means “beef.” And “bake apple” refers to “cloud berry” and has nothing to do with baking or apples.

    We are still learning the lingo here on Day 4 in Newfoundland. So far it has been anything but “easy peasy, lemon squeezy.” But a delight to the ear.
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  • Day 46

    Holiday Happiness

    July 14, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    One might ask. Is Coleen enjoying the trip? You be the judge.

  • Day 48

    Colour Me Lucky

    July 16, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    From a cherry- red Triumph, to the classic, maritime blues and butter yellows, to the soft pink and purple lupins lining the ditches, it has been a colourful day here in Newfoundland.

    The sports car belongs to Steve Hicks, member of the VW Happy Campers Facebook group who worked on our coolant leak, refusing all payment. Sadly the fix wasn’t a complete success but Steve gave us a contact (a fellow Westy cheerleader) and an address to order a new part in St John’s. Fingers crossed, we will limp into the provincial capital for the repair by month’s end.

    Steve is a colourful character, retired mechanical engineer, owns a 1973 VW bus, and attended the Woodstock reprise concert a few years back with his wife Mary. Has about 6-7 restoration projects on the go at any one time.

    So each time I find the tell-tale lime green coolant under our van, I say to myself … chin up, keep on going … you’re a lucky, lucky man. Newfoundland in July … it can’t get much better than this.
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  • Day 48

    Ending on a High Note

    July 16, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    The climb to the summit of Gros Morne Mountain capped a wonderful week at this national park. It is hard to capture in words or photographs the beauty or scale of the place. It is massively gorgeous.

    The climb up the mountain and then down over six hours was not for the faint of heart or the weak of knee. The ascent was made easier by a chatty couple of girls (Trinity and Sierra) and their father from Ottawa. I think the girls were missing their mother for they sure liked talking to Coleen.

    What has impressed me so much about Gros Morne is that each trail is so, so different — challenging for sure but oh so rewarding. Sea views, inland fjords, serpentine lakes in hanging valleys, mountain paths, secluded coves with sandy beaches. I think I’m in love.
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