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Camino Francés

septiembre - octubre 2022
  • Making another memory
Una aventura de 36 días de Making another memory Leer más
  • Making another memory

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  • España España
  • Francia Francia
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Pareja, Senderismo
  • 716kilómetros recorridos
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  • 33huellas
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  • Making another memoryViajeroCamino Francés
    A soggy but happy finale to our trek.
    Making our way into Santiago de Compostela.About another kilometer to go to get to the Cathedral...It was windy and quite foggy on Monte do Gozo.About halfway through today's walk.Yet another one of this series sponsored by a Spanish beer company.So many different colors of ponchos on the Camino today.One of several lovely murals we encountered in O Pedrouzo this morning.1Our room for the next three nights at Mapoula Pensión Boutique.The narrow alleyway to our hostal.

    Day 36: Santiago de Compostela

    15 de octubre de 2022, España ⋅ 🌧 61 °F

    Weatherwise, today was the dreariest day of our Camino—but our satisfaction in finally reaching Santiago de Compostela far offset the 22 kilometer slog through chilly rain, wind, and fog.

    Plus we then lucked out with a fantastic lunch at Restaurante Barbantes near the Cathedral, followed by a warm welcome at the hostal we’re staying at through Tuesday morning. After pausing to smell countless roses along the Way, I loved finding a fragrant pink rose on the nightstand in our room.

    Once settled in, we walked a few more blocks to get our Compostelas at the Pilgrims Office. It was a pretty expedient process where we scanned a QR code with our phones, filled out an online form, and then got a number that was quickly called via a DMV type digital board. A couple of stamps later, and we’d officially completed our pilgrimage.

    We’re looking forward to the massages we’ve scheduled for tomorrow morning, to touring the Cathedral, and to eating more delicious food over the next couple of days.    Leer más

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  • Making another memoryViajeroCamino Francés
    We shared the path briefly with this herd of dairy cows.
    A green tunnel along the Way.Bumping into Scott from Seattle as we left Arzúa this morning.Another of the large murals, shot in the early morning light in Arzúa.We saw lots of fields like this today.An amusing display of autographed, empty beer bottles at a beer garden along the Way.We were cautious getting around these two shrub trimmers.

    Day 35: O Pedrouzo

    14 de octubre de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Today’s 20 kilometers were up and down green hills, where we were accompanied by what felt like hundreds of pilgrims, including several raucous groups getting an early start on the weekend.

    We encountered cattle, tractors, and heavy duty shrub trimming equipment along the Camino today.

    We also came upon Scott from Seattle several times over the course of the day. It was fitting, Allan pointed out, to be seeing him now as we near completion of our Camino since he was the first pilgrim we met.

    We were thankful that the forecast rain mostly held off; we enjoyed our customary first and second breakfast stops, along with a third stop for a light lunch of white bean soup.

    The sun is finally making its presence known as I write in our comfy room at Casa Rural O Acivro.

    Tomorrow, we aim to walk the final 21 kilometers into Santiago de Compostela. It’s hard to believe we’re finally almost there.    Leer más

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  • Making another memoryViajeroCamino Francés
    Rolling green fields alternate with plowed soil near Doroña.
    A well-kept horreo, one of many we saw today.One of the many flower gardens along today's stretch of the Camino.The farmer who stopped traffic for his cows to cross the Way.Allan chatting with Rebecca.This cow stood high above us on a ledge abutting our path.A woman bends to harvest beneath the chestnut tree.Allan crossing a rather rustic bridge.A stand of eucalyptus trees in the forest.Entering a magical-feeling forested section.A farm building shrouded in morning fog.A farmer prepping pumpkins to be fed to livestock.1Breakfast in Melide: the biggest tortilla slices so far!

    Day 34: Arzúa

    13 de octubre de 2022, España ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    We timed our departure from Melide to arrive in Arzúa after noon. With only 13.5 kilometers to walk, we had a rather leisurely start to our day—including the biggest slices of tortilla we’ve encountered on the Camino.

    Once underway, our path meandered up and down hills, past flower and vegetable gardens, plowed fields, and plenty of pastures with horses and cows.

    At one point, a farmer ran a line across the Camino halting pilgrim traffic as he coaxed his cows from one pasture to another.

    We stopped for second cups of coffee in A Peroxa, and were delighted to bump into Scott from Seattle, the pilgrim we’d shared a Tesla taxi with from Pamplona to St. Jean-Pied-de-Port at the beginning of our Camino. We hadn’t seen him since, and we’d been wondering how he was doing.

    We were soon on our way again, and we enjoyed meeting Rebecca, a pilgrim from Eugene, Oregon. It’s always a pleasure to strike up a fun conversation over the course of a few kilometers along the Way.

    Our lodging today has a utilitarian, truck stop kind of feel to it, but it is clean and has a restaurant which means we don’t have to walk further to forage for food.

    Tomorrow we’ll walk 19 kilometers to O Pedrouzo. With the forecast calling for rain, we expect our ponchos will be earning their keep.    Leer más

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  • Making another memoryViajeroCamino Francés
    Leaving Rectoral de Lestedo in the early morning darkness.
    One of many Galician gardens along our path.Less than 65k to go to get to Santiago de Compostela.Allan next to one of the crosses we noticed at the center of various villages today.Once the fog burned off, the green fields were resplendent.This stretch of mossy forest felt quite magical.The church of Santa Maria de Leboreiro.The bridge crossing into our destination, Melide, was a welcome sight.We were delighted to encounter these sheep along the Way.One of a series of murals I've seen in Galicia.

    Day 33: Melide

    12 de octubre de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    The owner of last night’s lodging made a point of taking a photo of us as we left the Rectoral de Lestedo: it’s what he always does, he said, tickled by the morning’s dark skies.

    “This will show that you walk in the dark!” he exclaimed.

    Don Humberto, Miguel, and Julia were all so very welcoming and hospitable at the Rectoral, making it one of our nicest stops along the Way.

    We stopped for a breakfast of coffee and fried eggs in Palais da Rei, 5 kilometers away, and for a “second breakfast” of coffee and tarts at the Albergue Abrigadoiro, another 3 kilometers down the Camino. Don Humberto had recommended that we stop there, and we could see why. The baked goods were delicious and the owners above and beyond with their service.

    We stopped for the third time another 5 k down the Way, for fruit smoothies at the Happiness Cafe, a small food truck operated by a Seattle transplant.

    With only 6.6 kilometers to go to get to today’s lodging, I swapped my trail shoes for Teva sandals, trying to appease some new blisters that popped up yesterday.

    Allan, meanwhile, did great on his first post-recovery hike. Only three more hikes to get to Santiago!

    Tomorrow, we’ll walk 14 kilometers to Arzua, the shortest distance of the three.    Leer más

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  • Making another memoryViajeroCamino Francés
    I walked behind or in front of these two Spanish pilgrims for the first hour today.
    Making it through A Parrocha at first light.The narrow, rocky descent into Portomarin.The long bridge into Portomarin.The view from the bridge into Portomarin.After completing the dogleg into Portomarin, I exited via the middle bridge.A welcome level bit on the Way.Rolling hills, farmland, and forests stretch out into the distance.These shady stretches are always a welcome respite from the sun.It was interesting to see that the recently cut logs are stripped of their bark before transport.

    Day 32: Lestedo

    11 de octubre de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Sunrise arrives on the late side this time of year, so I left Mercadoiro in the dark this morning, thankful for the new headlamp I got in Burgos. Even at that early hour, I could hear other pilgrims chatting as they walked.

    The sky was starting to lighten up by the time I made it to A Parrocha, but it was still interesting to see modern lights illuminating the old stone structures in the hamlet.

    Nothing was open yet in Vilacha as I passed through, so it was on for another few kilometers to find some breakfast.

    The descent into Portomarin was surprisingly steep and narrow in some places—it was moving to see where the stone has been worn into “steps” by the hundreds of thousands of pilgrims who have preceded me along this stretch of the Way.

    A tall, lengthy bridge leads into Portomarin, testing my dislike of heights. I was grateful for the waist high barriers on the bridge when the wind generated by a speeding truck left me wobbling as I walked across.

    The Camino does a dogleg into and out of Portomarin, having pilgrims cross that same river again on a different, lower bridge.

    Leaving the town, I encountered the first of many climbs to come throughout the day.

    The Camino paralleled the road at times, and it was fun to wave at Allan’s taxi when he passed by around 11:30 a.m. Along other parts of the Way, I saw tractors working the fields as well as some lumber harvesting.

    After 26 kilometers, my feet were ready to call it quits when I reached today’s lodging: El Rectoral de Lestedo.

    Allan is feeling better, so tomorrow we’ll set out to walk 20 kilometers to Melide, knowing that a taxi can be procured along the Way if need be.    Leer más

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  • Making another memoryViajeroCamino Francés
    Moss covered stones lined this section of El Camino.
    An "horreo," a traditional Galician structure for keeping foodstuff away from the critters.A colorful garden provided a welcome splash of color on this gray morning.Pilgrims making their way along the road.This donkey looked like it was hoping for a treat.A spray of apples on a tree.Rolling hills leading into the mountain range.Pilgrims leaving Sarria.

    Day 31: Mercadoiro

    10 de octubre de 2022, España ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    My first day walking in Galicia came with a good, soaking rain. I know it’s much needed, so I was grateful that it held off until I was halfway through today’s 17 kilometers.

    I left Sarria just before 9 a.m., feeling as though I were on a conveyor belt of pilgrims. The volume of walkers easily quadrupled. Many Spaniards start their Caminos in Sarria, and they often do so in small groups of 3 to 6 people.

    Once the rain started, many took shelter in the cafes along the Way, which opened up some soggy space on the path.

    Fallen chestnuts carpeted the floor in several spots, while fallen apples often lined the sides of the road. Low clouds and rain mist were constant companions.

    It was so nice to see Allan’s smiling face at a cafe table when I arrived in Mercadoiro. He had taxied from Sarria with our backpacks, as he is still recovering from being ill.

    Our lodging here is in a very old building, which presents a few challenges. I’ve learned to duck my head when coming down the stairs from the bathroom!

    Tomorrow, I aim to walk 26 kilometers to Lestedo.    Leer más

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  • Making another memoryViajeroCamino Francés
    Teo driving into Sarria.
    Pilgrims observing the impressive Monasterio de San Julián de Samos.Another view of the monastery in Samos.An easy stroll after lunch.Ducks paddling beneath this bridge in Sarria.A view of the mountain range we crossed in the taxi.

    Day 30: Sarria

    9 de octubre de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    This morning we leapfrogged by taxi once more, driving an hour from Camponaraya to Sarria. We paralleled the Camino much of the way, deferring the steep hike up to O Cebreiro for our next Camino, whenever that may be.

    Teo, our driver, pointed out apple and pear orchards along the route, and told us slate is mined and exported to England and other northern European countries as a roofing material.

    We snapped photos as we drove past a large Benedectine structure, el Monasterio de San Julián de Samos, and arrived in Sarria a short while after.

    We’re staying in a small three room hostal here, right along El Camino.

    Tomorrow’s plan is for me to walk 17 kilometers to Mercadoiro, while Allan covers that distance by taxi with our backpacks. Many pilgrims start their Camino here in Sarria, so I expect the route will be far from deserted.    Leer más

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  • Making another memoryViajeroCamino Francés
    The view from our window at Hostal La Medina de Camponaraya.

    Days 26, 27, 28 & 29 - Camponaraya

    5 de octubre de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    This Camino keeps delivering certain lessons whether we want them or not. Today’s? Our bodies need more time to heal, so we’ll be spending another four nights here for rest and recovery.

    We’re very thankful we were able to extend our stay at the Hostal La Medina de Camponaraya through Sunday.

    Our room is comfortable, the staff very nice, and whatever we might need is available close by.    Leer más

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  • Making another memoryViajeroCamino Francés
    1One of the many "frames" offered by the Castillo.
    After seeing so many ruined castles from afar, it was thrilling to see these well-preserved turrets.Seeing this bridge over the River Sil made it easy to imagine Templars guarding the iron bridge.Not sure if this is a replica or an original catapult.This exhibit was about castle history in Spain.A defensive spot on the castle's wall.Looking out towards Cabrera.A meeting room in the castle's library.One of the many medieval books on display.1A delicious lunch at Restaurante La Casona in Fuentesnuevas.One of the many blooming gardens we walked past today.1Sculptures at La Fábrica de Luz museum in Ponferrada.

    Day 25 - Camponaraya

    4 de octubre de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Before we left Ponferrada today, I spent an hour touring El Castillo de Los Templarios. After walking past so many castle ruins along El Camino, it was a treat to wander around this restored property.

    The Templars occupied the original structure in 1178, and expanded upon it until they were disbanded in 1312. They were tasked with protecting pilgrims on El Camino de Santiago from the Moors, securing an adjacent iron bridge with strategic importance between Galicia and León, as well as serving the Kings of Spain.

    Informational panels around the grounds explain how it has been fought over and changed ownership during subsequent centuries.

    Walking its ramparts, it’s easy to feel transported to times long past.

    After leaving Ponferrada, we ran into Bronwyn, a pilgrim from Australia who we first met at Orisson, and who we’ve since encountered several times along the Way. We chatted for a bit, and then she sped off, as she was hoping to go three times as far as our 10k today.

    We stopped for lunch in Fuentesnuevas, opting for Restaurante La Casona based on its 4 1/2 star Google rating. It was fantastic, and it seemed we were the only pilgrims there.

    We only had another 2 kilometers to walk after lunch, and we were happy to be settled into tonight’s hostal room shortly after 4 p.m.

    Tomorrow’s destination is Trabadelo, 24 kilometers away.    Leer más

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  • Making another memoryViajeroCamino Francés
    Lautico Fernandez Fernandez was a most personable driver.
    Lautico carrying our backpacks the final, steep meters to our hotel in Ponferrada.A street view in Ponferrada.Another stret view in Ponferrada.The view from our room at the Hotel Los Templarios.A shot of Astorga as we drove past it by taxi.

    Day 24 - Ponferrada

    3 de octubre de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    We leapfrogged a 102 kilometer section of the Camino by taxi today, covering in a 90-minute drive what would have taken us four days to walk.

    We lucked out with our driver, Lautico Fernandez Fernandez. He offered excellent commentary along the way, pointing out where the Camino went when we couldn’t see it from the car, providing highlights of the towns we passed by, and sharing a bit about his family’s background as blacksmiths in the Gradefes area of León.

    When we finally reached Ponferrada, the GPS system wasn’t helpful getting the car to our hotel’s door. Lautico was reluctant to let us walk the final bit despite our assurances that it wasn’t a problem.

    After it became clear that a short walk was in order, he insisted on carrying both of our heavy backpacks up the steep hill—and then refused to accept a tip. “Just call on me the next time you’re in León,” he said.

    Our hotel is very close to the Castillo de los Templarios, so we were looking forward to checking it out after lunch…but it is closed on Mondays. Since we have a short hike to Camponaraya planned tomorrow, we may stop in when the castle opens at 10 a.m.    Leer más

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