🇯🇵 Day 18 🇯🇵

47 miles / 3,475 ft / 4:11

The C-Spoke began with a bittersweet feeling. We were eager to find the solitude of the Japanese mountain roads once again, yet it also meant leaving behind the warmth of Yuki, Masa, and their home. This also meant saying goodbye—at least for now—to our TV crew, who had become not only our travel companions but also our friends.

After several rounds of bows, hugs, and kind words, we rolled out onto the familiar roads of 山梨県 (Yamanashi-ken). Jim pointed to places along the way, recalling stories and memories from years past. The morning brought a steady, gradual climb, and with our legs refreshed from rest, it felt smooth and almost easy.

Just as we pulled into a 7-Eleven for a quick hot canned coffee, the skies opened up. We sheltered under the awning, sipping our drinks and writing the blog post for the previous day. Once the rain lightened, we pushed onward toward 長野県 (Nagano-ken). But soon the downpour returned—harder this time. Luckily, near a small post office we spotted a narrow overhang and ducked under, grateful for the small reprieve.

We opened the snacks Yuki and Masa had packed for us, little comforts to brighten the gray afternoon. As the chill started to set in, kindness arrived in the most unexpected way. Two women—Setsuko and her daughter Kazumi—waved from across the street and invited us into their home with warm smiles and a gentle “どうぞ, dōzo” (please, come in). With Jim’s Japanese and their bits of English, plus plenty of smiles and gestures, we managed to share our story—through words, photographs, and laughter. We learned Kazumi’s daughter was studying to be a teacher (先生 – sensei), and they seemed to understand the spirit of our journey.

By the time the skies began to clear, our hearts and bodies were already warmed. As we prepared to leave, Setsuko and Kazumi surprised us with a gift: a bunch of the famous Yamanashi grapes. Their kind “どうぞ, dōzo” as they handed them over brought tears to our eyes. Offering shelter to two rain-soaked strangers was already more than enough, but to also send us off with a gift of their prized grapes… it was a moment that will stay with us forever.

On the way into 諏訪 (Suwa), we made a quick stop at a Mont-Bell store and picked up some natural mosquito repellent—hopefully strong enough to ward off the stealthy “ninja” mosquitoes that always seem to find us. By the time we reached town, the streets were buzzing with weekend visitors, many gathering for tomorrow’s 花火 (hanabi – fireworks) exhibition.

We followed the lakeshore bike path, which loops completely around Lake Suwa, and about two miles from our Airbnb we stumbled upon a free hot spring foot bath. It was exactly what we needed. Lisa had been chilled from the rain, and my right foot had cramped on and off most of the day. Slipping our tired feet into the steaming mineral water was pure relief, and we lingered there before heading on.

After a quick stop at a 7-Eleven for some basics, we arrived at our Airbnb, where our hosts Seiichi and Keiko welcomed us warmly. They mentioned a nearby street festival, and after getting cleaned up we joined them under umbrellas for the short walk there. The narrow street was lined with food stalls, smoke rising from grills, and the air rich with savory aromas. But with the rain still falling, we decided to duck into a local Chinese restaurant instead.

Hunger had definitely set in—we’d only had a rice ball earlier in the day—so we ordered a spread of appetizers and main dishes to share. The food was delicious, the large bottles of beer refreshing, and the price once again reminded us how surprisingly affordable eating out in Japan can be.

Afterward, Lisa and I wandered back through the festival stalls for one last look. Near a yakitori stand we ran into a father with his two daughters, who insisted on treating us. We tried to politely decline with a laugh and an “おなかいっぱい (onaka ippai!)” – our stomachs are full – but he had already bought them. So, with good humor, we sampled skewers of grilled chicken skin and chicken neck. The flavor was bold, the outside pleasantly crisp, but the texture wasn’t quite to our taste. Still, his generosity was touching, and we shared a smile over the moment.

Back at our Airbnb, Lisa and I sat together, laughing about the day behind us and all the unexpected twists it brought. A day that began with heartfelt goodbyes and stormy skies had ended with warm company, good food, and yet another reminder of the kindness of strangers. 明日 (ashita) we climb back into the mountains, heading west toward Kanazawa.Read more