🇯🇵 🐒 Day 19 🐒 🇯🇵

40 miles / 4,455 feet / 4:07

We began our 朝 (asa – morning) at our Airbnb in 下諏訪 (Shimosuwa), in the heart of the 諏訪 (Suwa) district. Breakfast was light but memorable: coffee, yogurt, bananas, and the special apple danishes that Eiko—the former head English teacher I worked with in Kushigata—had carefully baked and sent with us as a gift for our journey ahead. As we loaded the bikes, the owners, Seiichi and Keiko, cheerfully saw us off, taking plenty of pictures and waving until we disappeared down the street.

Our first stop was at Suwa Taisha Shimosha Akimiya (諏訪大社 下社秋宮), one of the four main shrines of the Suwa Grand Shrine complex—among the oldest in Japan, with a history stretching back over a thousand years. It has long been a place of devotion for mountain and harvest deities. The grounds were serene, shaded by towering cedars, with views reaching toward 諏訪湖 (Lake Suwa). We paused at the racks of 絵馬 (ema – wooden prayer tablets), reading the heartfelt wishes left by countless visitors before us.

From there, we visited the Manji Stone Buddha (万治の石仏 – Manji no Sekibutsu), a massive statue carved in 1660. According to legend, the mason who built the shrine gate carved this Buddha afterward as a vow to the gods. Locals still circle the statue three times while making wishes, believing in its quiet power. Its worn face seemed to embody centuries of prayer and patience.

We then climbed to Enrei-Onodachi Park Viewpoint, battling grades as steep as 23%. The struggle was real (especially with the slick moss moist from yesterday’s rain), but the reward was immense: sweeping views of the lake below and the surrounding peaks. For a moment the clouds parted, revealing the distant silhouette of Japan’s sacred mountain on the horizon—Mt. Fuji a breathtaking sight.

After carefully descending, we stopped at a 7-Eleven to restock on snacks and water, then pedaled toward Seinan Park, near the small airfield. The park was quiet and green, the sort of local spot where families gather on weekends and children play freely. We had a light picnic of the normal Japanese snacks from 7-Eleven, but this time Jim also tried the ham and cheese burrito and Lisa the ham and cucumber sandwich on white bread (with the crust cut off).

After lunch, the road carried us into fertile farmland. Orchards heavy with apples (りんご ringo), pears, and peaches lined the hillsides, while golden rice paddies rippled in the breeze. 玉ねぎ (tamanegi – onions) and leafy greens filled neat rows in the valley bottoms. Nagano is known as the “fruit kingdom” (果物王国 kudamono ōkoku), and today’s ride proved why. The cooler air at this altitude gives the fruit a crisp, balanced sweetness unlike anywhere else.

Near 松本 (Matsumoto) in the Hata district, we rode along a quiet mountain road beside the river. There we had our first sighting of wild monkeys (日本猿 nihonzaru)—darting across the pavement before disappearing into the trees.

Another short shop stop for evening essentials, then my ever adventurous routing experiment led us along the Azusa River, where parts of the old road had been half-washed away by landslides. We pushed our bikes carefully across rough patches before rejoining Route 158. Sunday traffic was heavy with hikers heading to the mountains, and the endless tunnels made the riding tense.

We took a detour to one of the large dams and found it strangely deserted—just quiet water and dramatic scenery, while the busy highway buzzed not far away. Lisa and I sprinted across it, laughing about creating a Strava segment. We saw more monkeys while waiting at another long tunnel, before finally tackling the toughest climb of the day into 松本安曇 (Matsumoto-Azumi).

Our guesthouse, Irodori, greeted us warmly. We checked in, celebrated with cold beers, and soaked in our own private 温泉 (onsen – hot spring bath), a perfect recovery after the long ride. Dinner was humble but exactly what we needed: instant cup noodles, crispy French fries, a bit of karaage fried chicken (唐揚げ), salty edamame, and Meiji chocolate for dessert.

Today’s weather made a big difference—cooler temperatures kept us comfortable, though we fought a steady 風 (kaze – wind) approaching the climb. Luckily, once the road tilted upward, the breeze shifted just enough to give us a gentle push from behind. A small gift that helped carry us through the hardest miles.

Tomorrow we’ll take on the famous Norikura Skyline (乗鞍スカイライン)—a climb of about 13.5 miles (22 km) at an average grade of 6.5%. It’s the highest paved road in Japan, topping out above 2,700 meters. Known for its alpine meadows, sweeping switchbacks, and views into the Northern Alps, it’s a true bucket-list ride for cyclists in Japan. A big test awaits us in the morning.Read more