• Day 37

    October 9 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    It felt as if something was gently pulling us back toward Yuki and Masa in 山梨 (Yamanashi) today. Every mile seemed to lean uphill and into a steady headwind, as if the mountains were testing our legs before letting us return. The road wound quietly upward, lined with autumn-touched trees and the soft hum of our bicycles beneath us. Conversation came in short bursts between deep breaths, but mostly we rode in peaceful reflection, thinking about all the memories we’ve gathered so far and a bit of sadness leaving Kushigata.

    As the elevation rose, the air grew noticeably cooler, brushing our cheeks with the crisp scent of pine. We stopped for a midmorning snack, sitting outside a small rest area overlooking the valleys we’d crossed days before. The view stretched endlessly—a layered watercolor of greens, dark blues and yellows with threads of roads we’d once traveled barely visible below.

    About 10 miles (16 km) from our destination, we spotted a little sandwich shop tucked off the main road. Its warm interior was a welcome escape from the wind and cold. Over sandwiches and hot coffe, Lisa caught up on a bit of work while I watched the locals come and go, exchanging polite ありがとうございます (arigatō gozaimasu – thank you very much) as they left. The small kindnesses here never stops feeling special.

    The final climb brought us to the edge of beautiful 白樺湖 (Shirakaba-ko – Lake Shirakaba), our home for the night. Just as we arrived, we met two retired men visiting from 台湾 (Taiwan). They told us they often travel to 東京 (Tōkyō), but love returning to this peaceful mountain lake. Their cheerful energy lifted our slightly melancholy spirits, and soon we were laughing about travel stories and favorite foods. Encounters like that are the heart of this journey.

    We rode around the lake, taking in its calm surface reflecting the sky, and scouted our dinner and snack options for later. The season is changing, and since it’s off-season and a weekday, most of the restaurants were closed. So, we embraced one of our Japan touring traditions: a コンビニ (konbini – convenience store) meal.

    After settling into our guesthouse, Lisa started the laundry while I arranged our konbini feast into something resembling a romantic dinner—complete with chopsticks, hors d’oeuvres, and drinks neatly spread out on the small table. We clinked our glasses, shared quiet stories, and watched the light fade from the window.

    It was a simple day—just wind, mountains, and gratitude—but those are often the ones we remember most.
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