🎌🏯Day 38🏯🎌

55 miles / 3,840 ft / 4:31

At breakfast, we met a really sweet couple that shared their grapes with us. After learning that we are cyclists, they wanted to also share their new stretching technique (magic touch stretching) which Lisa entertained.

Once we made our way to the bikes, we circled 白樺湖 (Shirakaba-ko – Lake Shirakaba). The lake shimmered like glass, surrounded by silver birch trees that give it its name. It’s a peaceful spot high in the 蓼科高原 (Tateshina Kōgen – Tateshina Highlands), part of 八ヶ岳中信高原国定公園 (Yatsugatake-Chūshin Kōgen Quasi-National Park). We took a short walk to 池の平神社 (Ikenodaira Jinja – Ikenodaira Shrine) on the small island in the lake, where the red torii stood quietly in the morning light and the cool air of the changing seasons.

From there, we began the long climb up Nagano Prefectural Route 40 toward 霧ヶ峰 (Kirigamine – Mount Kirigamine). The road wound steadily upward through cool alpine air, past rolling meadows, and we noticed the early autumn colors beginning to show on the distant trees. The area is known for its panoramic views and wildflowers, and at the top we could see across the vast highlands toward the distant peaks of the Yatsugatake Range. The climb was tough, but the views from the ridge made every turn of the pedals worth it.

What goes up must come down, and soon we were flying down Route 67 and a series of smaller winding roads, the scenery changing from open highlands to forest and farmland. The descent was a thrill of speed and switchbacks.

Around midday, we stopped near Mount Chikato by Namatsuma Pond for a simple セブン-イレブン (7-Eleven) lunch. A few rice balls, sandwiches, and hot coffee, nothing fancy, but sitting by the pond with the mountains reflected on the surface made it feel perfect.

After lunch, it was time to face my rear wheel problem again. I had broken a spoke a few days ago, and even though we found a local bike shop and took the wheel completely off, tire and all, the friendly mechanic realized he didn’t have the straight-pull spokes my wheel required. He was very apologetic, and even though it didn’t work out, we left smiling, another reminder that kindness doesn’t depend on success.

On the way toward 松本市 (Matsumoto-shi – Matsumoto City), we stumbled across a small open-air antique market. We couldn’t resist stopping. Rows of old tea sets, wooden boxes, and faded signs lined the tables. I tried to locate a marble or an older baseball card, but no luck. As usual, we made a few friends there, friendly locals who asked about our bicycles and our trip, and we shared a few laughs before moving on.

I had routed us by 松本城 (Matsumoto-jō – Matsumoto Castle), one of Japan’s most iconic castles. Built in the late 1500s, it is one of the few remaining original castles. We chose to observe from a distance to avoid the tourist crowds. The beauty was magnificent, and it is easy to see why it is one of Japan’s treasures.

Not far outside the city, we found our next stop, a higher-end bike shop called Bike Ranch. This time, luck was on our side. They had the exact spoke I needed and replaced it, trued the wheel, and even applied some fresh rim tape. We were back on the road in less than thirty minutes, feeling relieved and grateful, ready for the final leg of the day.

Our route then joined Route 19, heading north through Nagano toward our lodging for the night. It wasn’t the quietest stretch, but we cruised quickly downhill and were back on local farm roads soon.

At last, we reached the Spice Road Curry House Lodge, tucked at the base of 有明山 (Ariake-yama – Mount Ariake). The owner, Atsu, greeted us with a huge smile and told us that this mountain is sometimes called 小富士 (Ko-Fuji – Little Fuji) because of its graceful shape. We even got a room with a mountain view, as the one we originally booked had a broken air conditioner.

Dinner was one of Atsu’s set meals: roasted chicken, rice, salad, and naan, along with a few glasses of wine to celebrate the day. It was enough for both of us to share, and it tasted even better knowing we didn’t have to go anywhere else. Tonight was also the first night of the season he lit his wood-burning stove, and Lisa managed to claim the seat right beside it. Another guest joined us for a short chat before we headed to bed early, tired but content.

As we lay in bed reflecting, it was days like this, with climbs, kind strangers, small frustrations, and unexpected joy, that reminded me why we travel this way.Meer informatie