🎌☔️ Day 39 ☔️🎌

56 miles / 6,200 ft / 5:07

We got an early start this morning because we knew the climbs would take a toll on our weary legs—and the rain forecast didn’t help. Coffee and a simple breakfast of yogurt, bananas, and Yuki’s homemade granola was just enough to get us up the first few climbs.

As soon as we stepped outside to load the bikes, the rain began to fall from low, gray clouds. The further we rode, the harder it came down. With the temperature hovering in the high 50s (about 14°C), we couldn’t afford to stop for long or risk getting chilled. Oddly enough, we looked forward to the climbs—they were the only thing keeping us warm!

Our route from 松川村 (Matsukawa-mura – Matsukawa Village) wound deep into the folds of 長野県 (Nagano-ken – Nagano Prefecture), through the heart of the 安曇野 (Azumino) basin. This is one of Japan’s most beautiful rural regions, framed by the 北アルプス (Kita Arupusu – Northern Alps), where snowmelt becomes crystal springs that feed the rice fields below. Even though clouds hid most of the peaks, we could still sense their presence—massive, silent, and close. Missing the views of the peaks we observed closer beauties: Lush apple orchards ready for harvest, persimmon trees bright with orange fruit, the Japanese homes nestled on the mountainsides, and the low clouds surrounding us.

The roads, slick with fallen autumn leaves, wound through tiny mountain hamlets. At 55.9 miles (90.0 km) and a stout 6,200 feet (1,946 m) of climbing, the route didn’t offer much flat respite. But that was part of its charm—relentless, scenic, and full of small surprises. Being a Saturday meant busier stretches near tourist areas, but we found quieter lanes that rewarded us with the soft sounds of rain on cedar.

By lunchtime, we reached a little mountainside grocery store halfway down a descent. Shivering, we ducked inside and scoured the shelves for comfort: room-temperature Coke and canned coffee, cheese crackers, a pineapple sweet roll, and three rice balls wrapped in tofu. Not exactly gourmet, but おいしい (oishii – delicious) enough when you’re soaked and hungry. The rain kept falling, as we munched our quick lunch standing shivering under the overhang of the store. We were eager to get back on the road knowing another climb was waiting to warm us up.

And then came our miracle moment—the roasted corn stand I had marked as a waypoint. 焼きとうもろこし (yaki toumorokoshi – grilled corn) glowing like a beacon through the drizzle. Cozy Japanese ladies worked behind the counter, smiling as the steam and the smell of caramelized soy wafted through the air. They invited us to warm our hands over the grill and even gave us two extra halves of corn.

While Lisa changed into dry clothes and tights (finally!), I tucked the hot corn into my jacket. Instantly, heat spread across my chest, thawing the day’s chill. When Lisa came back wondering where the corn had gone, I pulled it out and tucked it inside her jacket as we smiled together. We huddled close, corn in hand, warmth returning to our fingers, and hearts full of gratitude. Today, we were truly saved by the corn.

The last miles brought one more climb and a misty descent past a small shrine tucked into the forest. We didn’t stop—too cold by then—but nodded in passing. Sometimes a simple bow feels like enough.

We rolled into our guesthouse just as the rain eased, finding small treasures: a shoe dryer, a hot shower, and a cozy room.

Tonight we are nestled in the mountains, just below 黒姫山 (Kurohime-yama – Mt. Kurohime), resting between the 関川 (Sekigawa – Seki River) and 野尻湖 (Nojiri-ko – Lake Nojiri), at a guesthouse called Sápmi.

The name caught our attention—it’s the word used by the Indigenous Sámi people for their homeland in northern Scandinavia, a region of wild nature, snow, and reindeer. Perhaps the owner chose it as a nod to that northern spirit of mountains, forests, and quiet connection to the land. Whatever the reason, it feels fitting here: a peaceful place where warmth and wilderness meet.

We prepared s stir-fried rice dinner, and ate in the shared dining area. Now, chocolate and beer to finish the day in our warm room. Sunshine predicted for tomorrow.Läs mer