🇯🇵🌋🌧️Day 42🌧️🌋🇯🇵

38 miles (61 km) / 6,485 ft (1,977 m) / 4:20

Today was one of those days we had circled on the calendar since the beginning of our trip. A true cycling challenge on National Highway 292, the highest paved national highway in Japan, winding through the volcanic landscape of Mount Kusatsu-Shirane, an active stratovolcano known for its striking crater lakes and 上信越高原国立公園 (Jōshin’etsu Kōgen Kokuritsu Kōen – Joshin’etsu Kōgen National Park). The route climbs from 山ノ内 (Yamanouchi) toward 草津温泉 (Kusatsu Onsen), and at its highest point crests above 7,300 feet (2,307 meters).

We were up before dawn, knowing this would be a long day. Breakfast was served at 7:00 a.m. sharp, a traditional Japanese breakfast of grilled fish, scrambled eggs, rice, miso soup, tea, and a few small pickles. Before sitting down, we had already loaded the bikes so we could hit the road right after eating. While waiting for breakfast, I talked with two young men from New York who had just started their journey by train and bus through Japan. They reminded me of Tyler and Sebastian, full of excitement, ready for anything, and starting their own adventure.

Outside, the sky was heavy and gray. We had received an alert earlier that part of Highway 292 was temporarily closed between the Manza Onsen Junction and Kusatsu Tenguyama Gate due to volcanic activity, so we knew the road might be unpredictable. Sure enough, about sixteen minutes into our ride, the mist turned to drizzle, and the drizzle turned into a steady, cold rain.

The climb stretched on for 14.5 miles (23.3 km), gaining 4,732 feet (1,442 m). The higher we climbed, the harder the rain came down. We passed steaming vents and alpine meadows that disappeared into fog. Somewhere along the way, we stopped at 平床大噴泉 (Hiratoko Daifunsen – Hiratoko Geyser), a natural vent in the volcanic earth that releases bursts of hot water and steam. The warmth felt incredible against the cold, and we laughed at how it was the only heated rest stop we’d find all day.

At the summit, we reached Mt. Yokote, home of the cozy Café 2307, named for its altitude. Nothing could have tasted better than a hot café latte at that moment. We lingered for a few minutes inside, dripping wet, watching the fog swirl around the volcanic peaks before we started the long descent.

The downhill should have been glorious, but the weather had other plans. The wind picked up sharply, and the temperature dropped fast. Between the freezing air, the fog, and the slick pavement, we could hardly see the views we had hoped for. My hands were so cold I could barely feel the brakes. About ten miles from our overnight town, our turn did not exist. Our only choice was to continue riding down the mountain. Near the Tsumagoi Golf Course, we encountered a man stationed just before the tollbooth. We struggled to communicate, neither of us speaking much of the other’s language, but in true Japanese spirit, he refused to leave the situation unresolved. With patience, hand gestures, and a lot of smiles, he helped us understand how to proceed, and eventually we were waved through the toll road, knowing (or thinking we knew through broken Japanese and English) that we had to turn left at the gate. We passed several gates, and none of them seemed right. We ended up finding another climb that was a mountain road through the forest. Again, ringing our bells to keep the wild animals away while slipping on the wet moss and early fall leaves, we made it back to our originally planned route.

Thinking we were in the clear and feeling good because “we were almost there,” it happened. Just four miles (6.4 km) from Kusatsu, my rear derailleur cable snapped. I managed to manually shift the chain into an easier gear, but it meant standing on the pedals for the last two miles (3.2 km) up a cold, steady climb. We rolled into Kusatsu Onsen soaked, frozen, and about two hours too early to check in at our guesthouse.

Kusatsu is one of Japan’s most famous hot spring towns, known for its bubbling geothermal vents and constant clouds of rising steam. The sulfur smell hangs in the air, but in a strangely comforting way, like proof that the earth here is alive. The heart of the town, 湯畑 (Yubatake – hot water field), is a large, open-air basin where hot spring water gushes from the ground and flows through wooden channels. Around it are narrow streets, steaming footbaths, and the elegant 光泉寺 (Kōsenji – Kosen Temple) perched just above the springs.

We walked our bikes slowly through the busy streets, scanning for somewhere warm. It felt almost like being in a parade, as people stopped to look at our loaded bikes and smile at the drenched foreigners trudging through the mist. We met a couple from California, Rachel and Jay, who were traveling around Japan in a camper van. Rachel works in the bicycle industry for Giant, and Jay and Lisa discovered they both knew of a playground that Lisa had designed in Ojai, California. It was a short but fun conversation, and their friendly energy lifted our spirits after a cold, hard day on the bike.

Soon after, we found a small, quiet, and cozy Indian restaurant tucked on a side street. The owner welcomed us in and made us steaming chai, curry, and cheese naan that hit every note of comfort we needed. Just as we finished eating, the owner of our guesthouse, 草津温泉ゲストハウス暁天 (Kusatsu Onsen Guesthouse Gyoten), messaged that our room was ready.

Mao, the owner, was incredibly kind, letting us bring the bike inside out of the rain so we could replace the broken cable. He even placed our soaked shoes next to the heater to dry. Once the maintenance was done, we showered and took a short evening walk to explore the city, umbrellas in hand. We found a small Japanese restaurant on the second floor of a building overlooking the steaming streets below. From the window, we could watch the Yubatake glowing with soft green and purple lights through the rising mist.

We fell asleep instantly, our legs tired, our hearts full, and our spirits warmed by the kindness of strangers and the steady rhythm of the journey.Läs mer