🎌👺Day 43 👺🎌

49 miles / 4,940 ft. / 4:58

We woke up to the sun trying to peek through the clouds, so Lisa quickly opened the curtains. The gentle warmth felt like it was thawing our spirits after days of cold rides. Before the city stirred, we decided to explore on foot with hot 7/11 coffee in one hand and a crispy apple croquette and chocolate éclair in the other. The streets were quiet and smelled faintly of sulfur from the nearby hot springs. A friendly Japanese obāsan (a kind word for an elderly woman kind of like grandma) waved us over to her small stall and offered us a taste of a warm steamed bun filled with sweet red bean paste, called 温泉まんじゅう (onsen manju – hot spring steamed bun). She was steaming them using natural onsen water. The kindness of people here never fails to amaze us.

Back at the guesthouse, our host Mao greeted us with his usual big smile. Before we left, he wanted to take some pictures together. It was so sweet, and we were honored to pose with him in front of the house. With bikes loaded, we rolled out through the narrow streets of the famous hot spring town. As we were gradually pedaling up one of the first hills to leave town, we suddenly heard someone shouting from a car to our right. It was Mao, leaning out the window, waving and cheering, “がんばって!” (ganbatte – good luck, do your best!). Lisa laughed and said, “I love this place!” Moments like that stay with you.

Once we were out of town, the clouds rolled back in, but there was no rain. The route promised plenty of climbing again, this time over several small passes that dipped and rose like waves. The first climb along 国道55号 (Kokudō gojūgo-gō – National Highway 55) was one of the most beautiful yet, curving through green valleys and tiny mountain hamlets. With hidden little shrines along the road side with luscious green moss showing their age.

We stopped near 中之条・折田 (Nakanojō–Orida) at a small farmers market where we picked up beans, rice, and a cold grape soda for lunch. We carried it to nearby 臨勝寺 (Rinshō-ji – Rinsho Temple) and enjoyed it under a tall cherry tree, listening to the city chimes ringing softly in the distance. A nice man stopped and talked to us, inquiring about our adventures. We also discussed the cherry tree and together we thought it was somewhere around 100 years old.

Not long after, we met Steve, a cyclist from Scotland who was also touring Japan. It was funny because we had just finished our lunch stop and you could tell Steve also was hesitant about stopping as he was on a downhill, but we both decided to stop. We talked for quite a while about travel, the kindness of people here, and the ups and downs of life on the road. He had endured a long, rainy day before, and we wanted to offer something small to lift his spirits. We gave him a bag of our favorite spicy peanuts and rice crackers, called 柿の種 (kaki no tane – literally “persimmon seeds”), a snack we’ve come to love. It felt good to share something after having received so much kindness ourselves. Steve seemed happy to meet us and cheerful to hear our advice. Encounters like that always brighten our days.

The road ahead twisted through dense forest, where every surface was slick with soft green moss. We joked about not sliding out as we descended, warning each other to watch for fallen chestnuts and the moss-covered curves. It was one of the toughest descents of the trip, a road that had been shifted by earthquakes and washed out by storms.

At the bottom, a local farmer waved us down. He looked worried and spoke quickly, and although we didn’t understand most of what he said, one word stood out: 熊 (kuma – bear). To make sure we understood, he mimed a big bite toward my arm with his hand. That got the message across. We thanked him with a friendly ありがとう (arigatō – thank you) and rerouted toward a busier road.

As the day drew to a close, we rolled through the peaceful gardens of the 沼田城跡 (Numata-jō ato – Numata Castle ruins), once home to a 16th-century fortress built by the Sanada clan. The old stone walls, autumn trees, and quiet paths made it a beautiful way to end the ride.

That evening we checked into one of our stranger guesthouses yet. It was an old wooden house run by an elderly couple—or maybe they weren’t a couple at all, we couldn’t quite tell. The おばあさん (obāsan – grandmother) greeted us with a shy smile, and at first, I thought neither of them spoke English. Then the gentleman surprised us with nearly perfect English, explaining that he had lived in Hawaii and New York years ago. Our room was enormous, with tatami mats and two soft futons laid side by side.

When we finally rolled down the big hill to dinner, it felt like a reward. We ate at a small Chinese restaurant beside 大釜温泉 (Ōigama Onsen) along the 片品川 (Katashina-gawa – Katashina River). Lisa ordered sweet-and-sour pork, and we shared gyoza, chicken appetizers, and a big bowl of brown rice. I had a giant plate of 焼きそば (yakisoba – fried noodles) and a cold beer. Somehow, all of this was under twenty dollars, which still amazes us.

The ride back up the hill was slow, and we were grateful for any reason to stop. We took night photos beside the massive 大蛇 (daija – giant serpent) that the town is famous for. This enormous paper-and-bamboo snake measures 108.22 meters long and is paraded through the streets during the annual 大蛇祭 (Daija Matsuri – Giant Serpent Festival). The snake represents protection, prosperity, and the strength of the community. During the festival, hundreds of locals carry the great serpent through town, weaving it like a living dragon to honor the river gods and pray for good fortune. Nearby stood a fierce-looking 天狗 (tengu – a mythical creature with a red face and long nose) mask, a guardian figure believed to keep evil spirits away.

By the time we reached the guesthouse again, we were completely exhausted. The lights of the town shimmered below, and the quiet hum of the onsen drifted through the valley. This was another day full of kindness, laughter, and the unexpected moments that make traveling in Japan so special.

Japanese of the Day
温泉まんじゅう (onsen manju) – hot spring steamed bun
熊 (kuma) – bear
柿の種 (kaki no tane) – spicy rice crackers
大蛇 (daija) – giant serpent
大蛇祭 (Daija Matsuri) – Giant Serpent Festival
天狗 (tengu) – long-nosed demon-like guardian spirit
おばあさん (obāsan) – grandmother
がんばって (ganbatte) – good luck, do your best
ありがとう (arigatō) – thank youLes mer