🇯🇵🏁🎉Day 47🎉🏁🇯🇵

46 miles / 2,450 ft. / 4:08
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Total Miles: 1,628
(2,620 km)
Vertical Miles: 25.4
(40.9 km)
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Today we woke at 6:30 a.m., full of the bittersweet excitement of our last day of this tour. I peeked out the window: the forecast promised no rain, and though the sky looked cloudy, the air felt calm, so I believed we were safe from showers.

After some typical morning organizing and a pre-breakfast coffee from Lisa, we headed down to breakfast around 7:00. The buffet was a mix of Japanese and American-style favorites: small pastries, omelette bites, little smokies, salad, and potato salad. There was also onion soup, but we decided that might not be the best choice before a long ride.

A bit more coffee and orange juice, a second round of chocolate croissants, and then it was back to the room to pack panniers, stuff the sleeping bag into its dry sack, double-check the room, and carry everything down to the bikes.

We took our time this morning. We had only about 45 miles (72 km) to ride before reaching the English House in Hitachinaka between 3:00 and 4:00 p.m., but we knew from past tours we’d likely savor every last moment.

Our route hugged the ocean for much of the way so we could enjoy the sound of waves and the salty air. The skies were grayer than hoped, but a gentle tailwind was firmly at our backs, making pedaling easier.

Our first major stop was 高戸小浜海岸 (Takado Kohama Kaigan – Takado Kohama Beach) in 高萩市 (Takahagi-shi – Takahagi City). This scenic little bay, framed by steep sea cliffs and twin inlets, has been selected as one of Japan’s “100 Best Seaside Spots” thanks to its white sand, green pines, and the dramatic contrast of land, sea, and sky.

We wandered across rocks and explored small caves and tide pools where tiny crabs hid among the boulders. Though I couldn’t verify whether those caves were once ancient dwellings, the area feels timeless. Geological records say the sand here was formed as granite from the 阿武隈山地 (Abukuma Sanchi – Abukuma Mountains) was carried down to the sea and sculpted by Pacific waves.

Sunday meant a few more people than usual, but still far fewer than expected — perfect for our reflective mood.

After Takado, we rode further toward Hitachinaka and passed a small tourist area decorated with statues and pictures of a bird that looked like a penguin… or maybe a crane? We guessed it commemorated a migratory bird but couldn’t quite identify the species.

A bit later, we climbed to a viewpoint above the city near 日立大沼町 (Hitachi Ōnuma-chō), our “last highest point” of the trip. From up there we could see rooftops in every shade of color, the Pacific stretching beyond, and the winding road we’d just taken to reach it. A bit of height, a bit of wind, and a lot of gratitude.

Lunch was magical — a small shrine out on a peninsula near the ocean in 日立相賀町 (Hitachi Aikachō). We sat together in the cool, stiff breeze with no cars, no people, just the sea, a giant ship on the horizon, and the two of us savoring our last rice ball on the road.

By the end of lunch my cycling computer’s ETA had crept from 3:00 toward 4:00, so I messaged Annie to say we’d aim for 4:20 p.m. We continued through rolling hills near the ocean, sometimes right along the coast, sometimes inland, passing farmers harvesting sweet potatoes. We reminisced about how lucky we’d been to witness so many harvests: apples, pears, persimmons, cabbage, chestnuts, daikon, onions, and — of course — grapes in 山梨 (Yamanashi). What a privilege it’s been to see Japan’s seasons unfold from the saddle, and of course, the changing colors of the Japanese maple trees.

About two miles (3.2 km) from the English House we stopped in a little park for a final rest and a sweet treat. Just before that, we had visited 村松山虚空蔵堂 (Muramatsu-san Kokuzō-dō) Temple in 東海村 (Tōkai-mura). Built in 807 by the monk 弘法大師 (Kōbō Daishi – Kūkai), this temple was long protected by the 佐竹氏 (Satake clan) and the 徳川家 (Tokugawa family). The main deity, 虚空蔵菩薩 (Kokuzō Bosatsu – Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Memory), felt especially fitting for our “memory-making” ride.

Then, as we rolled toward the parking lot entrance of the English House at 4:19 p.m., there they were — our friends Justin and Ethan — cheering, pumping their fists, and signs that read “Congratulations, you did it!” in Japanese. Mike, Yosie, and Annie were also present to greet us with hugs and cheers. Justin held a little gold ball above our head and we were instructed to pull the string and a banner burst out with confetti.
The banner read Omedetto おめでと(congratulation!), and we stood under the celebratory globe, laughing and posing for pictures. We celebrated in the in the parking lot for over an hour telling stories, laughing, hugging, and even shedding a few tears. The mix of exhilaration (“We finished!”) and melancholy (“This is it…”) washed over both of us. It was the best welcome home celebration!

A little later we were shown to our mini-apartment. Surprise number two: a basket of goodies — a bottle of red wine with a bicycle on the label (perfect), homemade quiche with grapes and salad, butternut squash cake, and local dried sweet potato, a regional favorite. Another wonderful feast put together by Yosie! We ate quietly, full from both food and kindness. Lisa dashed across the street to the laundromat, completing our post-ride ritual.

Collapsed on our beds, we reflected: another tour complete. Tomorrow, our focus shifts to preparing a presentation for about 50 students and parents at the English House. But for now, rest! ❤️Read more