A Long Day on the Bike

Day 4: Lisbon to Caldas da Rainha (71 Miles / 6,800 ft.)

Our first full day on the road began by navigating Lisbon toward the coast. When we asked a man to photograph us, he carefully framed the shot. Then a woman walking to work jumped in front of us, struck a pose, and laughed. A perfect start!

The coast led to mountain-bike trails, followed by hours of difficult climbing in the heat. Lunch was grocery-store sandwiches and chips. In one village, Lisa waved to a lively group of women, and one enthusiastically waved back. Their energy gave us a lift.

The quiet countryside, changing scenery, and mysterious smells sometimes reminded us of Japan, Tanzania, or Italy. Farmers were busy harvesting grapes, apples, and pears, creating a familiar Iowa-like feeling of harvest season and the first slight buzz of autumn. We kept laughing and telling each other to “get a run at it” before hills where no run could possibly help.

After 71 miles and 6,800 feet of climbing, we reached our Warmshowers hosts, Eric and Amaya. They welcomed us with Thai curry, fresh salad, baked cheese pastries, and salted-caramel ice cream.

A very hard ride, but an exciting first day heading north!Read more