A Rest Day, Asturian Style

Day 20: Grado to Oviedo (26 miles / 3700 ft.)

We went to bed under clear skies and woke with our hostel completely engulfed in fog. After breakfast, we hit the road for our “rest day,” which somehow became nearly 30 miles and and 3,700 feet of climbing.

We began with an easy coast into Grado for its Sunday market. We wandered among booths filled with cheap shoes and clothing, produce, meats, honey, and local cheeses. We left with honeycomb, cured sausage, and a piece of four-month-aged Afuega’l Pitu blancu, one of Asturias’s oldest cow’s-milk cheeses. We chose the white variety without paprika.

From Grado, we followed the Río Nalón valley before climbing away from the river toward Oviedo. We had discussed skipping Monte Naranco and having something closer to a real rest day, but the weather was beautiful and we were enjoying the ride, so up we went.

The long climb led to the Monument to the Sacred Heart of Jesus, standing high above Oviedo with its arms stretched over the city. We weren’t alone. Tourists arrived by car, hikers walked up, and quite a few cyclists made the climb before bombing back down.

At the top, we met a couple from Florida who had hiked up. Most of the other hikers looked like they had barely exercised, but these two were covered in dirt and looked as though they had been backpacking for days. They were ready to find a taxi for the trip down. We enjoyed our snack, the views, and then earned our reward with a fast descent into Oviedo.

For more than 24 hours, we had been worrying about our hotel’s rule forbidding bicycles. Separating ourselves from the bikes is never our favorite thing. We rode first to the recommended parking garage, unsure whether they had received my email. The attendant greeted us kindly, led us to a tucked-away corner, and then said in his best English, “It’s free.” Once again, a small act of kindness nearly brought tears to my eyes.

We unloaded everything at the hotel, rode back in our street shoes, locked the bikes deep inside the garage, and piled cardboard around them for a little extra camouflage. With security cameras watching, we decided they would be safe for the night.

After showers, snacks, and some rest, we headed into Oviedo for the San Mateo Festival. Oviedo is now the capital of Asturias, but it was also the capital of the medieval Kingdom of Asturias. Each September, San Mateo transforms its historic streets into a huge celebration with live music, food stands, local vendors, children’s activities, street performers, and fireworks.

We casually wandered through the crowds, listened to music, and eventually split a pizza. On our way back, we found a quieter live performance and stopped for a while. We were too tired to make it to the 10:00 p.m. fireworks, which may have been a wise decision. Our street was lined with pubs advertising hours from 11:30 p.m. until 5:00 a.m., so whether we actually got a restful night remained to be seen.Read more