Loving Asturias Riding!

Day 21: Oviedo to Arriondas (48 miles / 4610 ft.)

Surprisingly, we slept well despite the late night bar scene outside our hostel. A full breakfast spread got us started, and we walked to the parking garage to find our bikes still safely hidden under the cardboard. We rode back to load them up, taking care on Oviedo’s slick stone streets while cleaning crews hosed away the remains of last night’s San Mateo festivities. We passed the cathedral, listened to its bells for a bit, and within three miles were out in the countryside.

Then the fun began. Low clouds rested in the mountains, sunshine warmed us as we pushed east, and the roads wound past cows, horses, apple trees, vineyards, and green pastures. Farmers had been moving cattle between fields, leaving plenty of evidence on the road. We also saw about ten cyclists, mostly older gentlemen on road bikes. Then I remembered I probably fit that description myself.

The hills gave us a ridiculous rhythm: descend at 30 or 40 mph, then immediately shift into our easiest gears and climb the next one at 4.5 mph, sometimes on a 14% grade. Some winding stretches reminded me of Kentucky. A few open views almost looked like Iowa, though the mountains quickly put an end to that thought.

Around mile 30, we stopped to eat the croissants we’d saved from breakfast. By then the morning clouds were lifting, and we just kept enjoying the ride through the hills toward Arriondas. We were near the Sierra del Sueve, with the Picos de Europa farther east. The coast is close, too: the Sella River runs from Arriondas to the sea at Ribadesella.

Rather than fight for a spot at a crowded café, we bought snacks and drinks at the grocery store and had a picnic in a park along the river before our 4:00 hotel check-in. Now we’re relaxing and planning a quiet evening, maybe with a stroll by the water when it cools down. It was chilly this morning but warmed to about 75°F, just about perfect.

Lisa and I keep catching ourselves saying, “This is the best day.” Today really was some of the best riding we’ve ever had.Read more