Climbing into Another Year

Day 25: Vega de Pas to Balmaseda (45 miles / 3650 ft.)

Jim’s birthday ride!

The day began with a late breakfast that Booking.com reviews had described as “wonderful.” The reviews mentioned meats, cheeses, fruit, yogurt, and packed lunches. Instead, we received coffee, juice, three small pieces of baguette with jam, and a magdalena, Spain’s little breakfast sponge cake. We had hoped for more because a seven-mile climb was waiting right outside the door.

As we climbed out of the Pas Valley, we spotted a group of cyclists ahead and decided to catch them. They were from Madrid, and it was fun having some camaraderie as we climbed together toward Puerto de las Estacas de Trueba. Once again, we found ourselves riding into the clouds.

The pass carried us over the Cantabrian Mountains at nearly 3,800 feet and from Cantabria into Castilla y León. As we crossed over, the climate changed noticeably. The air felt cooler and fresher, with a hint of fall in the trees. Most of the leaves were already brown from the dry, hot weather, but a few showed flashes of crimson and yellow. The views were spectacular, followed by a long, warm descent alongside the Río Trueba. We soon found ourselves riding with another group before parting ways in Espinosa de los Monteros.

We had pushed on because we expected to find food at the market, but it was already closing. A couple of bakeries saved us with traditional premade sandwiches, which we ate on a bench before continuing east through the green Valle de Mena. Lisa settled for a hot dog in a baguette, while I had chorizo inside bread. Both were simple, traditional choices that hit the spot.

The final miles followed the Cadagua River into the Basque Country and Balmaseda, meaning my birthday ride crossed three different regions of Spain. Balmaseda has long been a gateway between Castilla and Bizkaia, tucked between the mountains along the river.

Upon arriving, we celebrated with patatas bravas and cold drinks, checked into our hotel, and hit the town. We eventually found a wonderful family-owned café run by a Venezuelan family. Their youngest son, Alan, spoke English and helped us order, and then cooked what may have been the best cheeseburgers we have ever eaten.

The night ended back in our hotel room with a nightcap and birthday cheesecake.

Happy Birthday, Jim! ❤️Read more