Champagne Gravel and a Traveling Wine Glass

Day 28: Vitoria-Gasteiz to Estella-Lizarra (48 miles / 2150 ft.)

After breakfast with Ainhoa, Hodei, and Lur, we said goodbye as they left for school around 8:15. Our legs felt revived after a full day away from the bicycles, and finally, this felt like the kind of day bicycle touring is supposed to be.

We quickly joined the Vía Verde del Ferrocarril Vasco-Navarro, a greenway following the old narrow-gauge railway known locally as El Trenico. From 1927 until 1967, the little train connected Estella with Vitoria-Gasteiz and towns farther north. Today, its former railbed creates a peaceful route of gentle grades, tunnels, bridges, and miles of mostly wonderful crushed “champagne gravel.”

Peaceful, except for the wind! We were immediately hit by a 22 mph headwind. The surrounding hills occasionally protected us, and as the trail changed direction, the headwind became a crosswind that tried pushing us off the path in the open areas. We continued pressing forward, and eventually the wind eased.

The trail carried us away from the broad plains surrounding Vitoria, through the quieter hills of Álava, and finally into Navarra and the Río Ega valley. There were few people, almost no cars, and surprisingly few barking dogs. We stopped briefly for a snack and to handle the details for our evening accommodations, but otherwise we simply kept riding and enjoying the trail. We also captured plenty of video, hoping to make a video film of one of our favorite riding days.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/Dd2B5vYoRL6/?stk…

Upon reaching Estella-Lizarra, we bought groceries, checked into a hostel filled with Camino de Santiago walkers, and settled into the familiar routine of drinks, snacks, showers, and laundry. Apparently, we are still on the Camino! We returned to the store for dinner supplies and cooked pasta and potatoes in the shared kitchen.

Estella grew into an important medieval city because of the Camino, and pilgrims are still everywhere. That evening, we wandered through the illuminated Plaza de los Fueros, the heart of town, surrounded by arcaded buildings and the neoclassical façade of the Church of San Juan.

We purchased a glass of Spanish red wine, and without any concern, they let us walk away with the actual glass. We wandered around the square for more than 30 minutes before returning it. In the United States, alarms might have sounded and security might have been called. Here, the glass was simply trusted to find its way home.

We keep saying, “This was one of our best days of riding,” but every day offers something different. This one was especially quiet, peaceful, and exactly what we needed.Read more