2,000 Miles, Two Dog Chases, and a Farmyard Escape

Day 44: Gien to Auxerre (66 miles / 3,550 ft.)

We enjoyed breakfast in our own little house in Gien, with toast, yogurt, muesli, and coffee. We were on the road around 9 a.m., greeted by a beautiful sunrise over the Loire River. Unlike yesterday’s relatively flat ride, today we would be heading into the hills, with nearly 3,500 feet of climbing.

The countryside was beautiful, with rolling hills, small villages, and plenty of churches to photograph. The clouds made for some dramatic pictures, especially against the old stone buildings.

Near Saint-Firmin-sur-Loire, we came across the impressive Pont-Canal de Briare, a bridge that actually carries a canal over the Loire River! Completed in 1896, this remarkable engineering project stretches more than 600 meters across the river. It’s quite a sight, especially when you consider that boats travel across it instead of cars.

Then, in Briare, a minor miracle occurred. We found an open post office and finally mailed our postcards! Apparently, it is possible to buy international stamps in France after all.

We continued through the countryside, stopping occasionally for pictures of churches and interesting buildings. In Saint-Fargeau, we came across an enormous château with a fascinating mix of medieval and Renaissance architecture. Parts of the castle date back to the 10th century, and its impressive red-brick walls and towers are quite a sight. Unfortunately, we couldn’t get inside, but that didn’t bother us. We often enjoy these magnificent buildings just as much from the outside.

By the time we reached Mézilles, we were ready for lunch and on the lookout for a French boulangerie. We found a wonderful little bakery and picked up a premade sandwich and a sweet treat for dessert to share. Even better, we found a quiet, secluded spot for a picnic.

Then things got interesting.

One of my creative routes took us down a gravel road that gradually became narrower and narrower. Eventually, we crossed a creek and somehow ended up in the middle of a private farmyard. The gates were closed, chickens were running around, and two large barking dogs were making it very clear that we weren’t welcome. Lisa was particularly concerned that a farmer might appear and release the dogs on us.

Fortunately, no farmer appeared, and Lisa managed to find an escape route through the farmyard and directly on route. We got ourselves and the bicycles out without becoming dog food.

I should mention that this was our SECOND dog encounter of the day. Earlier, two large dogs had chased us down the road. Luckily, I was armed with my trusty water bottle and managed to deliver two direct shots to the face, one for each dog. Both finally decided we weren’t worth the trouble.

In Toucy, near the church, we reached another milestone: 2,000 miles since leaving Lisbon! Naturally, we had to stop for our traditional mileage photograph, using our hands to make the numbers while carefully positioning Lisa’s camera. After several attempts, we got the shot.

From there, we continued north through more rolling farmland and little villages, including one with a rather interesting name. I’ll let the photograph tell that story.

Finally, we rolled into Auxerre, and what a beautiful town! Situated along the Yonne River, Auxerre has a wonderful historic center filled with half-timbered houses, narrow streets, and impressive churches. We settled into our apartment right in the center of town and took a short walk to explore.

This is also Burgundy wine country, with the famous vineyards of Chablis just to the northeast. The region is especially known for its dry white wines made from Chardonnay grapes, although our evening was more about food and relaxation than wine tasting.

Dinner was simple and perfect after a long day: premade lasagna, salad, and, of course, a cheeseboard and a few other snacks. Afterward, we wandered through the old town again, taking pictures of the beautiful buildings illuminated at night.

Then it was early to bed. Another adventure awaits tomorrow!Read more