Fog, Vineyards, and Unexpected Cheering

Day 45: Auxerre to Troyes (63 miles / 3,100 ft.)

Another beautiful morning! Fog had settled into the Yonne River valley, so we spent about thirty minutes riding around Auxerre and admiring its enormous cathedral and church towers rising through the mist. As the fog lifted from the river and sunshine began breaking through, the entire city felt a little mystical.

We climbed out of the valley and could look back at Auxerre slowly disappearing beneath the clouds. We were now pedaling toward a well-deserved rest day in Troyes.

The riding through the countryside was magnificent, with warm sunshine and long, gradual climbs into the Chablis wine country. Chablis is part of northern Burgundy and is famous for white wine made from Chardonnay grapes. The region’s limestone-rich soil helps give the wine its crisp, dry, mineral character.

We passed vineyards, large wine-production facilities, and several châteaux. Farmers were busy replacing fence posts, tying vines, and preparing the fields for next year’s harvest. Beyond the grapes, this is also farming country, with wheat, barley, and rapeseed among the common crops.

In Ervy-le-Châtel, we had another one of those “What are the odds?” moments. A short pilgrimage path climbed about 200 meters over steep grass and gravel toward the massive church at the top of the hill. At the exact moment we turned onto it, a group of about twenty teenagers on a field trip did the same.

They kindly stepped aside and cheered as we rode the loaded bikes up the hill. We made it to within about ten meters of the top, where three steps finally forced us to stop and lift the bikes over. At the top, one boy told me in English, “You are so good at that.” As we left, the entire group shouted every English farewell they knew. “Goodbye!” “Have a good day!” It was a wonderful little encounter.

We found a boulangerie-pâtisserie and bought a chicken and hard-boiled egg sandwich on a baguette. Naturally, we also needed dessert. I chose a chocolate éclair filled with chocolate cream, while Lisa went with a pain au chocolat.

About three miles later, we found the perfect picnic table in the quiet village of Chamblin. The park was surrounded by London plane trees, the tall trees commonly planted in perfectly straight rows along French roads, canals, and village squares. Their broad canopies provide wonderful shade, and their mottled bark makes them easy to recognize.

From there, it was more smooth riding all the way into Troyes. Our loft apartment had an incredible view of the Cathédrale Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul. Construction of the cathedral stretched across roughly four centuries, but only one of its two planned towers was ever completed.

Before checking in, we made a video call to Yuki in Japan to wish her a happy birthday and show her some of Troyes. After resting for a while, we took a long evening stroll among the city’s colorful half-timbered houses and narrow streets.

We eventually found a pizza place beside the river and settled in for pizza, a few drinks, and finally a taste of the crisp, dry Chablis from the vineyards we had ridden through earlier. Then it was back to our loft for a homemade cheese board and a relaxing evening looking out over the cathedral.

Tomorrow, we rest!

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