Cyclocross Touring Before the CX Race

Day 55: Wemmel to Overijse to Oude-Heverlee (28 miles / 1,600 ft.)

Today we headed toward one of the major destinations of our trip, the cyclocross race in Overijse.

I fell in love with cyclocross many years ago after stumbling across it while channel surfing. The sport developed in Europe during the early 1900s as a way for road cyclists to train through the winter. Riders race across grass, mud, sand, steep hills, cobbles, and barriers that sometimes require them to jump off and carry their bicycles. Belgium has turned it into something close to a national winter sport, with thousands of spectators gathering in cold, wet weather to eat frites, drink beer, and cheer for their favorite racers.

We planned to leave Luc and Manou’s house around 10:00 for the 18-mile ride through Brussels to Overijse. Less than a third of a mile from their house, I picked up a screw and had a flat tire. It wasn’t an ideal beginning, but we quickly changed the tube and were back on our way.

Even on a Sunday, navigating through Brussels felt a little like a cyclocross race. After riding through the heart of the city and past the monumental arches of Cinquantenaire Park, our route became increasingly adventurous. We entered the forest on rough trails, carried our loaded bicycles over trees knocked down during the recent windstorm, followed a little singletrack, and eventually bounced down a slick cobbled road toward Overijse.

We laughed about how appropriate it was to ride our own little cyclocross course on the way to watch a real one. The miles clicked away more slowly than expected, but we reached the race about when we had planned, just in time to watch the junior women finish.

Our first priority was some traditional Belgian cyclocross food: frites and a beer. Then we wandered around the course, scouting different hills, turns, and obstacles where we might watch the elite races. Conditions were nearly perfect for cyclocross, with slightly slick ground, chilly wind, and occasional sunshine breaking through the clouds.

We were lucky enough to run into Belgian racer Laurens Sweeck, whom we had met previously in the United States. We had also met his mother, and we happened to see her at the race as well. It was especially nice that they remembered us. We snapped a few more photographs with some of our favorite racers and spent the afternoon enjoying the action and atmosphere.

Around 4:30, we left the race and began the ride to our final Warmshowers hosts in Oude-Heverlee. After about an hour of pedaling, we arrived at the home of Hanne and Lieven.

We were their first guests through Warmshowers, and they gave us a wonderful welcome. They had recently purchased a large old Belgian farmhouse and were excited about their plans to renovate it. Lisa and I enjoyed hot showers before joining them in the family room for snacks, cold drinks, and conversation.

We shared stories about our travels and some of the unusual places we have stayed along the way. Then we moved to the dining room for one of the best meals of our entire trip: Belgian beef stew with frites. Known here as stoofvlees, it was rich, tender, comforting, and absolutely delicious. Lisa and I immediately began discussing how we could make it part of our Christmas tradition at home.

Dessert was vanilla ice cream topped with melted dark chocolate. Simple and perfect.

With the clocks changing overnight and everyone feeling tired, we headed to bed earlier than usual. Hanne would be leaving around 7:30 the next morning to commute to her job in Brussels on her new e-bike.

A flat tire, downed trees, singletrack, slick cobbles, Belgian frites, professional cyclocross, and another warm welcome from people we had never met before. It would be difficult to design a more perfect Belgian day.Read more