• Galley Tour

    26. syyskuuta 2025, Kanada ⋅ 🌬 57 °F

    Yesterday afternoon, we took a tour of the galley with our executive chef. Anytime I’ve done a galley tour on a Viking ship. I’m impressed with the cleanliness and also the small area that they have for cooking. Each station in the back is no bigger than the smallest bedroom in our house. The cooking stations are divided into a salads area, a butcher shop, a meat preparation area, a side dish area, and a dessert area. There is one chef in charge of each station on the Viking Polaris. The bread is all baked in an open kitchen on the serving deck of the world café. The Viking executive chefs have made minimizing food waste into an art. Very little food is discarded at the end of each day. Their serving dishes on the hot buffet line are smaller than a 9 x 13 casserole dish so that they can be replenished. No food is allowed out more than four hours. I will say that all the food on board is exceptional. We are also impressed by the fact that every crew member seems genuinely happy to be working on a Viking ship. And at the end of a lovely sea day we were treated to a magnificent sunset.Lue lisää

  • Morning Adventure

    26. syyskuuta 2025, Kanada ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    On this sea day, we are sitting in the Explorer’s Lounge with Kathy and Gil. Chuck has his hearing aids charging in the room so he is not wearing them right now. The captain came over the horn and announced “ We’re going to be closing some of the doors from the bridge and this may result in a suspension of services for a few minutes.” Chuck turned to me, looking very confused and said. “Did the captain just say that they’re going to be removing their clothes on the bridge and this may result in a suspension of services for a few minutes? What kind of drill are they having up there?”

    I couldn’t stop laughing for a few minutes. But when I got control of myself, I told him what the captain had really said. What Chuck heard was way more interesting.

    Traveling is filled with adventure 😂😂😂😂

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  • Rainy Day in Quebec

    25. syyskuuta 2025, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    The name of today’s footprint sounds like the title of a novel, but it describes what happened today. My camera got a few shots of the city early in the morning, but when we started our excursion, the bottom of the sky fell out.

    Still, despite copious rain, it was a wonderful day, exploring the beautiful French ambience of the Old City. It was founded in the 1530’s by the French explorer Samuel de Champlain. We also saw the Plains of Abraham, where British General Wolfe and French General Montcalm both died in a European conflagration we call “The French and Indian War.” We went next to a waterfall, Montmorency Falls, whose beauty, though not its size, matches Niagra’s cataract. In the rain and fog the waterfall looked magical.

    Being here brought home to my mind two peculiarities about Quebec. In the first place, this area must be the most furiously contested area outside the Middle East. The historic remains of military defenses are everywhere. We saw forts designed to protect the French from the Indians in the seventeenth century, from the British in the eighteenth century and from the Americans in the nineteenth century. This place has changed owners more often than a 1967 Mercury Comet.

    The other realization was that the French were here first, at least as far as European settlement is concerned. They founded this place and built it into a city. Yet for much of the last 200 years the French descendants have been at a disadvantage. Even though they were the first Europeans here, history has made them a minority. In Quebec City, 95% of the population speaks French, as did the founders of this nation. Yet much of the nation’s development occurred under British rule, hence the dominance of the English language. One can understand why the French-speaking citizens of Quebec felt like second-class citizens. Thankfully the government is now making accommodations to the presence of a large Francophone minority.

    Of course one could extend this argument to include the so-called “First Nations” in Canada, the indigenous tribes, who really were here first. One can be grateful that they also have received greater recognition from the government in recent years. The Wendat tribes, misnamed by the French as the “Huron Indians,” had been here long before any Europeans. They were the ones who named this place. Their word “Kébec” means, “where the river narrows.” Because the river narrows here, in bygone days, ocean-going ships were forced to stop here to unload. Thus, Quebec was Canada’s major Atlantic port until the completion of the St. Lawrence Seaway in 1959. Since then it has shared its role as an Atlantic seaport with Montreal and Toronto.

    Whatever the internal political stresses of Canada may be, the Canadians certainly made us feel welcome today. As we got out of the bus to admire the beautiful Chateau Frontenac, Starbucks gave us shelter from the rain. A short walk outside revealed an elaborate monument to Samuel de Champlain. Within a block is a church which is the burial place of the first Bishop of Canada. The history here is palpable. The architecture is stunning. The atmosphere and the food are French. If you want to go to Paris, but can’t, a visit to Quebec can certainly scratch that itch.

    The difficulties faced by the citizens of Quebec over the last two hundred years, notwithstanding, Canada is a remarkable nation with its own history and culture. It is not an appendage of the United States. Canada has set its own course, and as the culture in the U.S is changing, Canada is following its own path, capitalizing on the advantages that come from being one of the greatest agricultural producers in the world.

    Despite the weather, we had a wonderful day here. I hope you can come and enjoy this remarkable neighbor to the north sometime soon. But before you come, be sure to brush up on your French.
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  • Snooping Around Troix Rivieres

    24. syyskuuta 2025, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    We just went walking in downtown Troix Rivieres to see what we could see. It’s a lovely place with flowers and relaxed people enjoying the park on a sunny Wednesday. We originally planned to find a French patisserie and get a cup of coffee and a pastry. There were several places where we might have done that, but when it came down to it, I was still full from a wonderful lunch served onboard the ship. I had a delicious beef soup served in a big hollowed-out bread bowl. We found a beautiful city park where we sat and engaged in people-watching for about half an hour. It seems we are finding one miracle after another in Troix Rivieres.Lue lisää

  • Maple Toffee, Finally

    24. syyskuuta 2025, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    In 1995 I came to Canada to teach a workshop on cooperative learning. Later that week Kathy Dickson and I attended a festival honoring the fur trappers. At that festival, I had maple toffee and for the past 30 years I’ve tried to describe to Chuck how wonderful it was. At the festival they poured pure maple syrup on a snow-covered board and then inserted a popsicle stick and rolled the maple syrup up. Today they had chilled our maple syrup and we twisted that chilled syrup into maple toffee. I’m so grateful that after 30 years Chuck got to taste what I’ve been raving about for so long.Lue lisää

  • Parlez Vous?

    24. syyskuuta 2025, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    We stepped of the gangway of the Viking Polaris into France. The little town of Troix Rivieres feels as though it just got plucked out of Bordeaux and plopped down in the Western Hemisphere.

    Our first step took us to the Basilica of Notre Dame du Cap, a large octagonal temple whose stained glass windows alone are breathtaking. The cabinet for the organ pipes is in the form of a maple leaf. As far as the faith is concerned, the main structure on this glorious two-mile long, tree-lined park is the small church adjacent to the basilica where, according to the tradition, a man’s broken leg was miraculously healed in a matter of minutes as a statue of the Blessed Virgin opened its eyes for about three minutes. This happened in 1872. Both church buildings and the massive park surrounding them are peaceful, serene and invite meditation.

    Next we went to the Sugar Shack of Robert DuBoisé. In 1978 he bought 175 acres of land and since then has mastered the difficult art of making maple syrup and maple toffee. His legendary product is so good it is not even shipped out of Troix Rivieres. All of it consumed by the local market. Of course there is a little shop on the site to supply up tourists, but since neither Glenda nor I are checking luggage, we had to pass. Up here maple syrup is gold. There are three national storage facilities nearby. In 2012 some of the workers in one of these huge warehouses began siphoning off the maple syrup in the 1 million barrels stored at their facility. Before they were caught, they had pilfered $32 million worth of syrup. It was the largest heist, dollar-wise, in Canadian history.

    Three of the four paper plants that supported this town throughout the twentieth century have closed now, but Troix Rivieres is capitalizing on it lovely scenery, its quaint architecture, and its natural beauty, and now it has become a center for tourism. It’s a beautiful place to visit, and we plan to do more exploring in town later today.
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  • St. Lawrence Locks

    23. syyskuuta 2025, Yhdysvallat ⋅ 🌧 66 °F

    Today was a sea day, so we had an easy day of rest, relaxation, and great food. We are in the St. Lawrence Seaway, a waterway that traces and skirts the St. Lawrence River from Toronto to the Atlantic Ocean. Its 15 locks allow ocean-going vessels to navigate the 250 foot drop between the Great Lakes and the mouth of the river. One of the locks through which we passed today, the Eisenhower Lock, brought back my childhood memories of President Eisenhower and Canadian Prime Minister Harold Diefenbaker meeting here to open the seaway officially in 1959 after 5 years of construction. Since then every port on the Great Lakes from Duluth, Minnesota eastward has had access to the world’s oceans. The St. Lawrence Seaway has been an enormous boon to the economy of the American Midwest.

    The trip has been simply idyllic. For supper tonight I had pumpkin soup with a maple cream sauce and duck a l’orange. Just before supper Glenda went to a class to help folk learn some of the hidden tricks available on their iPhone. What a lovely, leisurely day!
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  • Onboard the Viking Polaris

    22. syyskuuta 2025, Kanada ⋅ 🌧 68 °F

    This is our second voyage on the Viking Polaris. This expedition ship is slightly different from the other Viking ocean ships. It is designed for adventure. Right now it is on a longitudinal world cruise going from northern Canada to Antarctica. The segment that we will enjoy goes from Toronto through the St. Lawrence seaway to Nova Scotia, then down the East Coast of North America to Fort Lauderdale. The ship is beautiful, new and elegant. It is made for adventure and we’re ready for it.Lue lisää

  • Arrival in Toronto

    22. syyskuuta 2025, Kanada ⋅ 🌧 66 °F

    We arrive in Toronto in a thunderstorm and have to wait to deplane because of lightning nearby. When it was time to deplane, we had to do so onto the tarmac in the pouring rain so everyone got soaked. We got through immigration and customs in a flash because we had already given the information online in an app. We had to sit in a waiting area from about 11 AM until noon waiting for more Viking shipmates to arrive to be taken to the ship.Lue lisää

  • Launchpad

    22. syyskuuta 2025, Yhdysvallat ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

    We are at the Charlotte airport again, going to Canada this time. Unfortunately, there is a very loud, deafeningly shrill alarm whistle filling the entire airport. Glory Be! As I am writing this it just stopped after about 30 minutes, so we’re at gate A10 silently waiting for our flight to Canada.🇨🇦Lue lisää

  • Prologue

    22. syyskuuta 2025, Yhdysvallat ⋅ 🌙 61 °F

    Giovanni da Verrazzano was an Italian sailor hired in 1524 by the King of France to explore the New World which Christopher Columbus stumbled upon thirty years before. Verrazano explored the coasts of North America, and was the first European to see the East Coast. When I go to North Carolina’s beaches, I always wonder about Verrazano. He was the first European to see my home state. Not only did he discover the Southeast, though, he also discovered Chesapeake Bay, New York Harbor, New England and Nova Scotia.

    From 1534-1542 Jacques Cartier made three voyages to North America, navigating the St. Lawrence River and laying the foundation for inland French claims. He also named Canada and attempted to establish the first European settlement in the region.

    Samuel de Champlain (1604-1616) explored the Atlantic coast of Canada and the interior, founding Quebec in 1608 and developed the colony of New France.

    Initially a key goal for all of these explorers was to find a navigable water route from Europe to Asia, the mythical Northwest Passage. Very quickly, however, the inland fur trade became a major economic driver, fostering important relationships with Native American tribes. 

    In the next few weeks, we will be retracing their voyages onboard the stunning expedition ship Viking Polaris. Although we will enjoy the many gifts the area has to offer today, in the back of my mind I will constantly be thinking about what this place must have been like in the days of Verrazano.
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  • Last Meal in Japan

    22. kesäkuuta 2025, Japani ⋅ 🌬 90 °F

    As a way to ease back into western culture after three weeks in Japan, Chuck and I walked up to a McDonald’s about 3/10 of a mile from our hotel for an egg McMuffin. I had heard that the McDonald’s in Japan were wonderful and I can attest to the fact that their shrimp burger is the best shrimp sandwich I’ve ever had. Our egg McMuffins were wonderful, and so much better than the ones we get in the United States. Every employee was courteous and helpful as we negotiated ordering and figuring out how to pay. McDonald’s in Japan is based on four principles.: quality, service, cleanliness, and customer satisfaction. Those principles are posted on each paper placemat and in the store. At both McDonald’s that I’ve been to in Japan, the writing on the wall suggests that eating at McDonald’s is a child’s weekly reward for being good. In a few hours, we will head to the airport to begin the long journey home from Narita to Los Angeles and then on to Charlotte, North Carolina. It has been a wonderful journey, but we are ready to go home and enjoy our house and our backyard.Lue lisää

  • Narita Shopping Adventure

    21. kesäkuuta 2025, Japani ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    After breakfast this morning, we ventured out to explore Narita. Everyone in Japan is so kind. At one point we were looking at our map trying to decide which way to go and a lovely young Japanese girl stopped to ask if she could help.

    There was a shrine that Chuck wanted to visit that was in the heart of the historic old town shopping district. After the shrine visit, we had fun wandering through over a hundred shops looking at food and clothing and assorted gifts. There was a shop that dealt totally with traditional Chinese folk medicine and other shops that sold eel in every conceivable form .

    Brandon Stillinger is our yard maintenance person and he loves anything Japanese. His wife Katie often fixes Japanese food for him so our mission today was to buy Brandon and Katie all sorts of Japanese snacks and spices. I truly have no idea what I’ve gotten him, but I know he has savory things and sweet things and a few other little goodies thrown in. It will be fun to give these to him when we get home. On the way back to the hotel we got ice cream cones. It’s 92° outside now so we will stay inside in our wonderfully air-conditioned hotel room and drink cold water for a bit.
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  • Punctuation Mark

    21. kesäkuuta 2025, Japani ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    When we got off the ship yesterday in Taipei, Taiwan and flew to Narita just outside of Tokyo, I thought I had been “templed-out.”

    But. . . .

    I had already decided that when we got to Narita I would visit Narita-san. It is not merely the place from which this city takes its name, it is also one of the most ancient and venerable Shinto shrines in Japan.

    Now, you have to understand. In North Carolina we have a Baptist Church on every other corner. But if you can imagine a country with 2 major religions, like Buddhism and Shinto, then you double the number of religious buildings in a town. That’s Japan.

    Every time you turn a corner there is another Shinto shrine or a statue of the Buddha with a special function, like prosperous farming or highway safety. I don’t mean to disparage either religion, but there are a lot of shrines of both sects everywhere—in small towns and large.

    But today in Narita we saw the largest and most opulently beautiful Shinto shrines we have seen anywhere. Narita-san (or the Venerable Narita) is magnificent. It consists of a complex of dozens of large buildings ranging from the bell tower to the shrine building itself. I glanced inside (but was not allowed to take photos) at a golden shrine festooned with invisible threads coming down from heaven, loaded with tiny golden flakes that looked like moving, sparkling butterflies. Clouds of sandalwood incense further shrouded the temple. Worshippers in front of me clapped twice, then bowed and made their supplications to the divine. It was moving to watch.

    The holy sanctuary up front was secluded in semi-darkness, but its gleaming wood and sparkling golden flecks served notice that this is a special place. Whatever one’s own religious background may be, it is hard to deny that something or someone sacred is here.

    We have seen dozens of shrines and temples on this trip, and I have reported on many of them. I don’t blame you if you lost track of all of them. But somehow, it is not just the size and grandeur of Narita-san that impressed me. It was, rather, the disturbing hint that perhaps God is bigger than I had previously believed, that God speaks in many languages and that the one God may be more complex—more manifold than I had thought. What is the Trinity? How can three be one? Is it possible for the one God to somehow be plural?

    Maybe not. I don’t know. But neither do you, and it is something we must consider.

    Maybe the disturbing part is the realization the God will not allow Himself to be corralled into my limited conceptual framework. Maybe both the simplicity and the complexity of the divine is something we learned as children:

    Little ones to Him belong,
    We are weak, but He is strong.

    These words imply that God does not belong to us. Whether we are Americans or Christians or Democrats or Vegetarians or Buddhists, God does not belong to us. We belong to Him. He is the boss. We are not.

    We belong to a God who can and will, without our permission, reveal Himself in the most unexpected ways—even as a Jewish baby in an obscure outpost of the Roman Empire when that is the last thing in the world anyone expects.

    Whenever the world has thought that it had God all figured out, God has always surprised us. When I think I have finally exhaustively described God, I always learn later that there is more to say.

    If one believes that the everlasting timeless, spaceless, eternal God can transform Himself into one human being, and then for God to do the impossible—that is, to die a physical death—is it too much to imagine that He may also be able to transform into shapes, forms and names that could be accepted by other cultures, languages and belief systems?

    Narita-san functioned today as a theological punctuation mark. It is the last religious shrine we will see on this trip. The sentence is finished, at least for now. But it is not ended with a period, but rather with an ellipsis.
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  • Our Japanese Hotel

    20. kesäkuuta 2025, Japani ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    We have stayed in beautiful hotels on our trip here to Japan but our last two nights are in a traditional Japanese hotel. We do have a western bed and a western toilet, but the room is beautifully compact and simple. It is comfortable and has everything we need. All of the amenities a traveler might need are located on a table in the lobby. Guests simply pick up what they want for their stay. The room is the size of a small stateroom on a ship, but every space in the room is well thought out. The breakfast this morning was a traditional Japanese breakfast of salads and fish and soups with a slight nod to a western breakfast by including scrambled eggs and sausages. The room is clean and the staff very attentive and accommodating. We would definitely recommend the Richmond Hotel in Narita, an eastern suburb of Tokyo, but you must understand that it is not a luxury hotel. For us minimalists, it has everything we need, and instead of $400 a night we paid $68 a night. And the restaurant at the hotel is excellent. We had one of the best pizzas we’ve ever eaten last night for supper. So if clean, small and functional, rather than big, fancy and glitzy is your thing, then you can’t beat the Richmond Hotel Narita.Lue lisää

  • The Other Side of the World

    19. kesäkuuta 2025, Taiwan ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    When I was a kid, my mom used to say that China was on the other side of the world. She said if you dug a hole deep enough, straight through the Earth, you’d pop out in China. Turns out, that’s not quite how it works—if you start digging from North Carolina, you’d actually end up somewhere in the Indian Ocean. But hey, she wasn’t exactly giving a geography lesson. What she meant was that China felt like the farthest place you could imagine.

    And in a way, she was right.

    We’re back in China—or technically, the Republic of China, on the island of Taiwan—and everything really does feel different. The language, the people, the pace of life. It’s a whole different world.

    I thought about Mom’s description today when we visited Taroko Gorge, which you might call Taiwan’s version of the Grand Canyon. It has dug down into the earth through marble mountains a couple of thousand feet. It’s not as massive or as deep as the American one, but it’s still a stunner. For six million years, a river heavy with silt has been grinding its way through solid marble, carving out a landscape that looks almost unreal. Take a color photo, and it still comes out black and white—the marble is that stark and dramatic. The Buddhist monks put a monastery here because they figured that way out in this canyon nobody else would bother them. Guess they’ve had to rethink that. This gorge has become quite an attraction. Honestly, if the Renaissance sculptors had known about this place, they’d have camped here for centuries with chisels in hand.

    Makes me wonder: if the river keeps cutting long enough, will it finally make its way through to North Carolina?
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  • Best Place You Never Heard Of

    18. kesäkuuta 2025, Japani ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    Have you ever wanted to go to a place that was untouched by the West?

    Ishigaki is as close to being a native island as I have seen in a while. Of course there are automobiles, electricity and traffic lights, but go outside the small city here and you could swear you were on a tropical island a hundred years ago.

    We visited a reconstructed Ishigaki village, and it felt very much like visiting colonial Williamsburg. Not that the houses here are laid in Flemish bond, or flying the Union Jack. It’s just that I kept feeling as though we’re were seeing what Okinawa must have looked like in the early twentieth century before its name became a headline.

    The houses and the people here are simple, humble and kind. Almost all of the residents here were born here. This is their world. And it’s a good world for them—lots of sugar cane, and the sweetest pineapple in the world, plenty of fish in the ocean, and the largest manta rays bigger than a yacht.

    There is a breed of small monkey here called the squirrel monkey. Only slightly larger than a North Carolina gray squirrel, these intelligent little critters will steal your passport or your purse if you don’t watch out. They even know how to unzip your bag and pockets. Cute but cunning!

    Closer to Taipei than Tokyo, this town in Okinawa prefecture is legally and politically part of Japan, but culturally it is unique. It is largely unknown outside its own prefecture, but Japanese vacationers are now discovering its untouched coral reefs. Divers and snorklers have learned of its colorful tropical fish, and sunbathers have found its white sand beaches. If you can imagine Florida without any large cities, you have some idea of the charms of Ishigaki Island.

    So if you ever can make it to this forgotten corner of the world, do yourself a big favor and plan to stay a few days. About half your time on land and half on water sounds about right.
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  • Typhoon of Steel

    17. kesäkuuta 2025, Japani ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    The Battle of Okinawa, fought from April to June 1945, was the last and bloodiest major battle of World War II. Often called the “Typhoon of Steel,” it pitted American and Allied forces against Japanese troops in a brutal fight for control of the island. The Allies needed Okinawa as a staging area for a potential invasion of mainland Japan, and the Japanese were determined to make that cost as high as possible.

    Over 180,000 Allied troops landed, and the fighting dragged on for nearly three months through dense forests, steep hills, and fortified caves. Mounted and portable flame throwers were required to neutralize Japanese troops who would not surrender, hiding in underground tunnels and caves. What made Okinawa especially tragic was the high number of civilian casualties—tens of thousands of local Okinawans were caught in the crossfire, some forced to fight or commit suicide by the Japanese military. In the end, more than 200,000 people died. The details of the battle are too horrific for me to recount here, but I do hope you will find some resources on the Internet that will give you some perspective on the horrors of this battle.

    The battle’s horrifying scale helped convince U.S. leaders to use atomic bombs to avoid another invasion like this. Today, Okinawa is peaceful and lush, but reminders of that terrible chapter remain—monuments, museums, and solemn memorial parks all speak to the island’s painful past.

    In every museum we have visited and every World War II monument we have seen, the dominant message is, “We who are alive today can never let a war like this occur again.”

    The Japanese want peace.

    Desperately.
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  • 53rd Anniversary in Okinawa

    16. kesäkuuta 2025, Japani ⋅ 🌬 84 °F

    Today we spent our 53rd wedding anniversary hiking through a subtropical rainforest in Okinawa. Chuck’s post will tell you all about the caves and the Banyan trees and the history of the place.

    At supper tonight we were in for a big surprise. Scenic had an extravaganza in the yacht club with every kind of food imaginable. Our sweet friend Bette Franken left us a card at our door and then had the singer dedicated a song to us. And a serendipitous surprise was that our very favorite song What a Wonderful World was immediately followed by Bette’s requested song for us, The First Time Ever I Saw Your Face.
    We were greeted by love and hugs and made to feel treasured by all of our friends .

    When we returned to our room about 8:30 pm our bed was decorated and then our Butler and room Stewardess rushed in and said, “You have to leave because we haven’t finished yet.”

    So we went back to the dining room and chatted with some more friends and came back 15 minutes later and our Butler said “I’m still not finished. Go away and come back later.” So we went to the observation lounge and sat and chatted about what a wonderful life we have had and how much we treasure each other.

    When we returned to the room for the third time, we found champagne and balloons and Tinashe holding a happy anniversary cake for us.

    It has indeed been a happy anniversary. We are blessed by our love for each other, and by the love of our friends and family..
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  • Voyage to the Dawn of Time

    16. kesäkuuta 2025, Japani ⋅ 🌬 86 °F

    There is no place in the world like Okinawa. It bears the influence of its Chinese ancestors, centuries of trade with Korea, Japanese domination and American occupation that lasted after World War II until 1972.

    We had no idea we were about to take a walk through time on this hot and humid day when we signed up for the tour of the Valley of Gangala. Hidden away in Okinawa’s lush subtropical forest, this otherworldly valley was once a massive limestone cave. Over hundreds of thousands of years, parts of the ceiling collapsed, leaving behind the open canyon and cave formations we see today. It feels less like a tourist site and more like a sacred space. No wonder it is growing in popularity as a spiritual retreat.

    The path winds past jungle vegetation, towering cliffs, and a banyan tree so massive and gnarled it looks like it emerged from some mythic story. This one is estimated to be about 150 years old, its roots dangling down like nature’s own chandelier. The whole place feels prehistoric, and that’s not just imagination—archaeologists are still actively excavating the area, where they’ve found evidence of human life dating back some 20,000 years.

    The tour begins at the Cave Café, a cool little spot tucked inside the Sakitari Cave. It’s not just a coffee stop—this cave is a treasure trove of history. In 2004, researchers uncovered ornaments made from shells, tools, and even human bones buried deep in geological layers that are nearly 2 million years old. These were the first Paleolithic-era artifacts of their kind ever discovered in Japan.

    The body was buried about 2500 years ago, but they also found stone brick and some pottery from about 4000 BC. The skeleton was found buried facing down with a bracelet on his left his left arm. He was also wearing a necklace made of shell. His remains were contained in a stone sarcophagus. Excavation suggested people started living here about 7000 years ago.

    And get this—among the finds was one of the world’s oldest fish hooks, crafted 23,000 years ago. Made by carefully shaving and polishing shell fragments, the hook was likely used to catch giant eels and parrotfish, whose bones were also uncovered nearby. It’s wild to imagine people living here, fishing these waters, and making tools with such skill so long ago.

    Excavations continue, but some archaeologists think that the first homo sapiens to leave Asia might have settled here. If so, this site would take its place among the most important archaeological sites ever discovered.

    If you’re anywhere near Okinawa and want to experience something ancient, mysterious, and genuinely moving, the Valley of Gangala is more than worth the detour.
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  • The Art of Graciousness

    15. kesäkuuta 2025, Japani ⋅ 🌬 86 °F

    The scenery in Japan is wonderful. But if you ask either Chuck or me why we love Japan, our answer would always be, “It’s the people.” Consistently everyone is kind and gracious and welcoming. Whether it’s a tour guide, a waiter or waitress or just a person we pass on the street, the Japanese people seem congenitally polite. They have no desire to push ahead and will inconvenience themselves for others.

    When our guides give us the agenda for the day, they always end it with “ I hope this is OK with you.” If lose your phone or your wallet in Japan, you don’t have to worry about someone stealing it. They will turn it into the local authority or possibly leave it just where it is so that you can come back and find it. You don’t need to lock your car for fear of someone stealing your valuables. An important Japanese manufacturing company just made a television commercial apologizing to consumers for raising the price of their products.

    Umbrellas are available for people to borrow all over towns and then racks are available for you to put an umbrella back when you finish with it. No one would think of keeping an umbrella once they no longer need it . I don’t hesitate to pull out all of my money and let the sales clerk get what she needs to pay for my purchase.

    Yesterday as we pulled out of the port of Amami, a group of citizens had gathered to bid us farewell. They were playing the most beautiful music and waving to us as a woman said over a loudspeaker, “Thank you for coming to our island. We hope you will remember our smiles and our love. Please come back to see us.” The crowd on the shore consisted of older people and middle school students and young children, and they waved and sang until we were out of sight.

    The scene at the port yesterday was the same as it is every time we leave a port in Japan. Chuck and I lovingly call it the waving ceremony because they will wave with both arms until we sail into the sunset.

    Oh, how I wish the people of America could embrace this loving attitude that does not want to put one’s self ahead of others or inconvenience others. How I wish we could embrace friends and strangers with the same love we have felt in every place we have visited in Japan. Our world and our nation would be a better place. But for now we come to Japan because the people here are civil and kind and loving. In Japan, we experience a peacefulness and a serenity that is hard to find anywhere else.
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  • If You Knew Sushi

    15. kesäkuuta 2025, Japani ⋅ 🌬 82 °F

    We had an opportunity to go to the sushi bar for an Asian feast tonight with every type of sushi and sashimi one can imagine, along with some western favorites, consisting of shrimp and scallops.

    It was all more than delicious. The artistry of these dishes was even more elegant than the flavor.

    This is just one example of the way the crew of the Eclipse II is making me feel as though I own this ship. No want is unattended. They are treating us like royalty.
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  • Voyage to the Unknown

    15. kesäkuuta 2025, Japani ⋅ 🌬 86 °F

    Have you ever had the experience of not knowing where in the world you were?

    A few times when traveling we have found ourselves in a place we never knew existed. That happened today. I had never heard or read anything about the Amami Islands. Just north of Okinawa. the Amamis have a unique culture, a blend of Japanese, Chinese and Ryukyu elements.

    The crystalline sand on its broad subtropical beaches are clean, sparkling and inviting. The water here is perfectly transparent, and the wide beaches and coral reefs stretch to the horizon. You can wade out a quarter of a mile and water as clear as that in your sink rises only to your knees. No wonder its sky-blue waters here draw SCUBA divers and from all over the world.

    While Japanese is spoken here in public places and in formal settings, at home people speak the native dialect of the Ryukyu language. I had come across the term “Ryukyu” before in connection with the Battled of Okinawa in World War II. Until the fifteenth century, there was a Ryukyu Kingdom made up of these islands. A powerful Shogun from Kagoshima taxed these islands, but continued to allow self-government. Later Japan completely subjugated this kingdom and added these islands to its most southerly prefecture.

    The kimono was invented here, and we visited Oshima Tsumugimura, a small craft factory that makes the most beautiful kimonos (and the most expensive) in the world using ancient methods and materials. The bark of a local tree is used, as a skein of silk is dyed 85 times before it attains the lovely black color characteristic of the finest kimonos.

    The local museum features the work of native son, artist Isson Tanaka, a renowned Japanese painter with strong ties to the island. I, who am allergic to souvenirs because of my minimalist packing, bought a sheaf of writing paper with Tanaka’s India ink drawing of beach grasses.

    Other products from the Amami Islands include sugar cane, fish and rice. The Amami Islands are among Asia’s foremost suppliers of bluefin tuna.

    Quite a few Japanese come here for vacation. The pace of life is slow, and the culture here has changed little over the years. As we boarded our ship, we diverted just to talk with some junior high school students who had come out to greet our ship. In slow and simple speech, I gave a few of them a chance to practice their English.

    I spoke very slowly. “Hello. My name is Charles. What is your name?”

    Her eyes lit up as she said slowly, “My name is Yuko. I am in junior high school, year three,” she said, holding up three fingers.”

    To know that I had understood what they were saying encouraged them and gave them even more confidence to talk with us in the strange Western language they begin studying in the third grade.

    As we left the port at supper time, a hundred students gathered on the pier for the waving ceremony. Plaintive Japanese music poured from loudspeakers, and a woman’s voice rose above it, “Please have a safe and pleasant voyage, and as you leave our island remember the happy smiles and the kindness of our people. We do hope you will return to our island again. Until then we will hold you in our hearts.”

    I stifled a tear and waved back.
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  • Cherry Blossom Mountain

    14. kesäkuuta 2025, Japani ⋅ 🌧 81 °F

    Two years ago sailing into Kagoshima early in the morning I thought, “Today can’t possibly compete with what we’ve already seen.” But then I got out of bed, pulled back the curtains—and there she was. A mile-high smoking volcano, staring right back at me like she had business with us.

    Mount Sakurajima wasn’t just part of the landscape. She was the landscape. It felt like she had barged right into our room just to say good morning. At first, I assumed the clouds circling her summit were just that—clouds—until I realized they were rising from the mountain itself. She was steaming and puffing ash like a dragon just waking up.

    That’s when I thought, “I don’t care if her name means ‘Cherry Blossom Mountain’—this lady’s packing heat.”

    Sakurajima used to sit quietly on her own island. But in 1946, she erupted with such force that the lava flow literally connected her to the mainland. So even though folks still talk about “Sakurajima Island,” she’s technically no island at all anymore—just a fiercely independent chunk of rock with a short fuse.

    Later in the day, as we headed toward the Kagoshima Museum, our guide casually mentioned that the local weather report includes a daily “volcano index.” She went on, “Level 1 means the mountain is taking a nap. Level 5? That’s when you grab your go-bag and run. Today she’s sitting at Level 3. There will be some ash fall,” our guide told us, “but if the wind comes from the west, no worries. If it blows in from the southeast, though—get ready to sweep off your porch.”

    When we cruised in today, Miss Cherry Blossom was asleep with her head nestled in a pillow of clouds. These photos are from our last visit when she was wide awake in all of her radiant glory and splendor.

    Today the storm gods are pushing the fire gods off the field—heavy rain with 20-40 mph gusts. Just as well, since an ancient local tradition here holds that rain is propitious.

    Of course, living next to an active volcano, their belief favoring water over fire doesn’t require too much explanation.
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  • A City With Everything

    14. kesäkuuta 2025, Japani ⋅ 🌧 79 °F

    If you were thinking about settling down somewhere in Japan, you’d have a hard time finding a better spot than Kagoshima. This place has it all—rich history, stunning views, and one of the most diverse economies in the country.

    Thanks to the volcanic soil from nearby Sakurajima, the region produces an astonishing amount of fresh fruits, vegetables, and livestock, feeding markets across Asia. The nearby ocean keeps southern Japan well supplied with seafood. And from the forested mountains and island slopes, local industries carefully harvest timber, always mindful of sustainability. All of this helps drive a thriving tourism industry, with visitors drawn to the natural beauty, the history, and the warm hospitality of the area.

    Kagoshima is also incredibly well-connected. Whether by highways, air routes, or the famous Shinkansen bullet trains, it’s easy to get here—and just as easy to head off to Japan’s other major cities when needed.

    After diving into the history and economy of the region, we wrapped up our visit with a trip to a lookout high above the city. From up there, the view of Kagoshima Bay is breathtaking, and it really drives home the promise and potential of this place.

    Honestly, I’m a little embarrassed that Kagoshima wasn’t really on my radar before this trip. But after being here, I can say it’s a place I won’t forget anytime soon. The city—and its people, past and present—left a deep impression.
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