A City With Everything
14 czerwca 2025, Japonia ⋅ 🌧 79 °F
If you were thinking about settling down somewhere in Japan, you’d have a hard time finding a better spot than Kagoshima. This place has it all—rich history, stunning views, and one of the most diverse economies in the country.
Thanks to the volcanic soil from nearby Sakurajima, the region produces an astonishing amount of fresh fruits, vegetables, and livestock, feeding markets across Asia. The nearby ocean keeps southern Japan well supplied with seafood. And from the forested mountains and island slopes, local industries carefully harvest timber, always mindful of sustainability. All of this helps drive a thriving tourism industry, with visitors drawn to the natural beauty, the history, and the warm hospitality of the area.
Kagoshima is also incredibly well-connected. Whether by highways, air routes, or the famous Shinkansen bullet trains, it’s easy to get here—and just as easy to head off to Japan’s other major cities when needed.
After diving into the history and economy of the region, we wrapped up our visit with a trip to a lookout high above the city. From up there, the view of Kagoshima Bay is breathtaking, and it really drives home the promise and potential of this place.
Honestly, I’m a little embarrassed that Kagoshima wasn’t really on my radar before this trip. But after being here, I can say it’s a place I won’t forget anytime soon. The city—and its people, past and present—left a deep impression. Czytaj więcej
Kagoshima—The Naples of Japan
14 czerwca 2025, Japonia ⋅ 🌧 79 °F
Kagoshima is often called the “Naples of Japan,” and after spending some time here, it’s easy to see why. Both cities share a warm climate, swaying palm trees, and a stunning volcano as a backdrop—Mount Sakurajima in Kagoshima’s case, which looms dramatically just across the bay.
But beyond the scenery, Kagoshima plays a surprisingly big role in shaping modern Japan. Statues of national heroes line the streets—reminders that this city was a launchpad for sweeping historical change. One of the most influential figures was Saigo Takamori, a local samurai leader from a powerful clan that ruled this area for over two centuries. He helped lead the charge in restoring power to the Emperor during the Meiji Restoration in the late 1800s. But in a strange twist, Saigo later rebelled against that same emperor and died in battle during the Satsuma Rebellion of 1877. We passed the very spot where he fell.
If the story sounds vaguely familiar, check out The Last Samurai with Tom Cruise. While fictionalized, the character Katsumoto was loosely inspired by Saigo’s life and ideals.
And Saigo wasn’t the only trailblazer from here. The first Japanese doctor to practice Western medicine came from Kagoshima. In fact, the city has produced a long line of forward-thinkers who left their mark not just on Japan, but the wider world.
One of my favorite stories is about 17 teenage boys from the 1800s who realized Japan was falling behind the West in science, industry, and technology. So they did the unthinkable—they slipped out of the country (when foreign travel was still banned), made their way to England and the U.S., and came back full of ideas that helped spark Japan’s own industrial revolution. That kind of boldness seems to be part of Kagoshima’s DNA.
Our time here was as educational as it was inspiring. Our guide took us through the Reimeikan Museum, one of the most fascinating museums I’ve ever visited. It starts in the atrium with a raised lucite floor showing a topographic map of Kagoshima Bay, then leads you through a recreated prehistoric cave—stalactites and all—before guiding you through thousands of years of history. The exhibits cover everything from ancient tools and art to politics, medicine, and modern technology. It’s beautifully done and easy to follow.
Walking through it, you can really feel the pride Kagoshima’s people have in their past—and with good reason. Without Southern Kyushu, Japan’s story would look very different. And probably a lot less interesting.
It was here the Japan entered the modern age. Her industrial and technological revolution began here in the factory that stood on this spot. And since that day in 1860, she hasn’t looked back. Czytaj więcej
Farmer’s Market
13 czerwca 2025, Japonia ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F
Since we got on the ship, I’ve been trying to go to the pearl farm for today’s excursion. I moved from sixth on the waiting list to fourth and this morning. I was the first one on the waiting list but never made the cut. Several others in our group also wanted to go to the pearl farm so we decided that we would give it a shot.
We took a tender over to the mainland and looked for a cab to take us to the pearl farm. But as Chuck said in his post, Uwajima is the size of Asheboro and just like Asheboro there are no taxi cabs in this town. So the dream of seeing the pearl farm died but then we found the pearl farmers market. We spent several hours with about 12 other adventurous folks who also wanted to go to the pearl farm. We shopped for jewelry and then we hit a grocery store, a drugstore, and a convenience store.
My friend Bette Franken has seen lots of comments on Instagram about the shrimp burger at McDonald’s and so when we saw a McDonald’s across the street we all scampered over there to try the shrimp burger. It was absolutely fabulous. The shrimp burger is made up of whole shrimp that I think are held together with an egg white binder. Once that burger is frozen they must dip it in an egg wash and then Panko crumbs and then deep fry it. It was better than any shrimp burger I’ve had at the Outer Banks or the beaches in North Carolina.
After our foray into McDonald’s, we headed back to the tender and came aboard. Chuck had just returned from his excursion so he and I went to lunch together in the yacht club.
Today did not go at all as I had hoped it would but when you spend time with good friends, any day is a fun day and our adventure in the town was one that I will always remember. We didn’t make it to the pearl farm, but we made it to the pearl farmers market. Czytaj więcej
Uwajima—Feels Like Home
13 czerwca 2025, Japonia ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F
Can you imagine a bullfight without a matador?
Uwajima is unlike any city we have visited so far. This area is known for bullfighting. The sport carried out here in Uwajima is unlike the Spanish version. Here there is no is no matador, just two bulls in an arena fighting each other until one’s knees touch the ground.
That’s not the only thing this city is noted for. The other thing that ancient Uwajima is known for is piracy. The many coves, nooks, and crannies around the seashore gave pirates a good place to hide.
But the city has settled down since those wild and woolly days. It’s good being in a small town the size of Asheboro. It’s only about a five minute bus ride between each of the places we visited in Uwajima rather than an hour.
First we visited Uwajima castle. The castle is very similar in appearance and construction to the ones we have seen previously, however, it was smaller. It was not only a watchtower, it was also a residence for the nobility. The fortress stands 2800 feet above sea level, and the climb up to it was demanding.
Next we went to a beautiful garden which was a favorite of Emperor Hirohito. He visited these gardens often and made the simple traditional tea house his residence while here.
Finally we spent time seeing the museum centering around the Date (pronounced DAH-tay) family, who were the hereditary rulers here at the end of the Shogunate period in the mid-nineteenth century.
One claim to fame the city still has that goes back to ancient times is its thriving pearl industry. Oyster beds dot the shoreline, producing the best cultured pearls in the world.
Uwajima feels like home. It is about the same size as Asheboro, and its economy is fueled mainly by agriculture. The climate feels like that of our home on a rainy day, and walking around the pond in a beautiful Japanese garden, I even saw a few mosquitoes I recognized.
Uwajima is neither large, showy, nor expensive. The museum’s exhibits all focus around the last wealthy family to own the town in the period of the Shogunate. None of the buildings are grand or trendy. Everything has a comfortable patina of age. Of course, the town did have to construct a new building for the museum a few years ago when the old one collapsed.
Like some of the other cities we have visited, Uwajima has never had a cruise ship in its relatively shallow harbor. The Eclipse II is the first. Unlike larger vessels, our comparatively small yacht can safely navigate these waters and go where other ships cannot.
As we came into port four or five fishing boats with crew members waving flags welcomed us. And as we left, a number of residents drove to the seashore and wished us bon voyage by waving flags. The practice of waving good bye has become a traditional ceremony in Japan. Waving is really a big deal here. We have seen whole buildings full of office workers turn out to play music over loudspeakers and wave us out of the harbor. It is a charming custom. These dear people have a way of working their way into your heart. So far, no Japanese person I have seen has been rude or unkind. They are elegantly polite. I love these folks.
Uwajima is…comfortable. I like it here. Czytaj więcej
Threading a Needle
12 czerwca 2025, Japonia ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F
The fog surrounds us like a blanket. When Scenic Eclpse II had to leave the port at Matsuyama a half hour ago there were half a dozen ships anchored in the harbor, a ferry boat was coming in, two smaller boats were crossing our path, a small inboard was headed straight toward us and an airport nearby required that we miss the end of the runway by a mile. And, oh yes, our ship had to pirouette around the end of a long breakwater to get on course for our next stop at Uwajima. All in the fog.
Earlier today Captain Erwan LeRouzic invited me to join him and the crew on the navigation bridge for the sail-out from Matsuyama. It was remarkable to see how the crew threaded that needle as they left the harbor.
Glenda said she felt nothing unusual as we left the port. That is amazing because the crew were constantly making course corrections as we altered our direction from due north to southwest to clear a breakwater and then to pass through a cluster of anchored ships.
We finally cleared all of the obstacles and set a steady course to the southwest. Thick fog prevented me from seeing more than fifty yards in front of the ship, but the radar scope in front of the helmsman showed nothing between our ship and another 7.5 miles ahead.
So we sit here cozy and comfy in our stateroom oblivious to the excellent work being done up on the navigation bridge to keep us in peaceful luxury.
I love cruising. ⛴️ Czytaj więcej
Tall Pines
12 czerwca 2025, Japonia ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F
In Japanese, the name, Matsuyama literally means “tall pine trees.” This place is noted for its hot springs, and several of our shipmates are going to bathe in the steamy waters. For me, the most impressive thing has been the view of the surrounding islands in the fog. Here are a few examples. Czytaj więcej
Hiroshima: The Price of Peace
11 czerwca 2025, Japonia ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F
A visit to the Hiroshima Peace Museum is sobering. Although the exhibits present a balanced and objective perspective on the detonation of the atomic bomb on August 7, 1945, even the mere facts of a nuclear explosion are necessarily horrendous. Everyone hates warfare, and one comes away from Hiroshima hating it even more. No doubt, everyone leaving this museum is a pacifist, at least for a while.
Particularly moving for me is an arch several hundred meters from the famous A-Bomb Dome. Standing at the arch, one can see arranged in a straight line the peace arch, an eternal memorial flame and the famous domed building, which had been an exhibition hall before the blast.
Also noteworthy is the “Children’s Peace Bell.” Anyone can stand under its arch and ring the bell, thus offering a prayer for peace.
It turns out after some reflection, though, that pacifism is not an ethical hiding place. Ethical flaws emerge when one takes the long view. How does one deal with the moral problems that arise when an unjust aggressor is killing thousands of people and confiscates their resources and property? Is it moral simply allow him to get away with it?
Two German theologians dealing with this issue, the brothers Reinhold and Richard Niebuhr, came to the United States between the wars. After World War I both were pacifists, and wrote compelling books describing their ethics. Yet after Adolf Hitler came to power, both men changed their views to what is classically known as a “just war” theory.
In his book “Moral Man, Immoral Society” Reinhold Niebuhr contends that if one takes peace seriously, there are times when serious force must be used to oppose evil.
The question of the morality of warfare is complex, involving difficult judgements and a nuanced view of war and peace. How does one balance the horrors of 600,000 Japanese civilians killed at Hiroshima and Nagasaki with the 6 million Chinese killed by the Japanese Army from 1937 to 1945? Is it a moral response to allow people like Kanji Ishiwara, Hideki Tojo, Adolf Hitler, Josef Stalin, Ratko Mladic or Vladimir Putin simply get away with genocide?
The destruction of these two cities in Japan has attracted much more attention than the Japanese atrocities in China, partly because the weapon used here in Hiroshima was new and incomprehensibly destructive. The so-called Rape of Nanjing has received less attention, possibly because it was effected by conventional weapons and occurred over a longer period of time. Yet the loss of life in China was far greater than that produced by both atomic bombs.
We have museums for the people killed at Hiroshima, Nagasaki, Auschwitz, Bergen-Belsen and Treblinka. They are graphic, and we should have them. It is just and proper to remember. But where are the museums for the people killed at Nanjing, or Sobibor, or the Gulag Archpelago?
We were all taught as children in Sunday school that we were to choose good and not evil. As adults we find, however, that often the choice is not between good and bad, but rather between something bad and something worse.
To drop a nuclear bomb is horrible. No argument there. Yet there have been situations in history when failure to do so could have resulted in even greater evil.
Tough question.
The issue is not a simple one. I would love to know what you think. When does it become necessary to bring force to oppose evil? Leave a comment summarizing your thoughts. Czytaj więcej

PodróżnikI've often times thought about this especially in view of the Israeli-Gaza situation. I always think to myself- "who started this whole thing?" I do believe in justified war. It took me a very long time to realize that truths are truths and nobody can deny the horrific outcomes from war. But neither can we turn a "blind eye" to leaders of nations who were and are depraved in every respect.
Miyajima—The Holy Land
11 czerwca 2025, Japonia ⋅ 🌧 66 °F
In the clouded mists of antiquity a Shinto priest had a vision one night in which a deity told him that in the morning a messenger would show him a holy site. The next day he saw a crow calling to him, and he knew he should follow. The crow led him to an island of incomparable beauty, and immediately the priest knew this place should become a special sanctuary for worship of the gods of nature.
In the Shinto tradition there are three places in Japan that are noted to be the most beautiful spots in the country. At those locations heaven comes close to earth, revealing itself in magnificent natural splendor. Miyajima Island is one of those three places. The name means something like “holy land.”
All of the wildlife here is considered sacred, and must not be bothered. White deer casually roam, eating tourists’ paper tickets and brochures and an occasional piece of clothing. The sanctuary hosts a dance troupe that performs here, not to entertain a human audience, but rather to entertain the 8 million Shinto deities.
The mixture of pine trees, ocean and mountains here truly is magnificent. The shrine hosts my favorite torii gate in all of Japan. The gate is about 16 meters tall; the circumference of each main pillar is about 10 meters, making this one of the largest torii gates in Japan. It weighs about 60 tons. The roof is made thatched Japanese camphor trees, and the pillars are made of cedar. Because it is made of wood, it tends to float, but it is filled with fist-size stones that anchor it to the ocean floor. This present torii gate was first built in 1875, and is the ninth such gate on the site since the Heian Period around 800 A. D.
Today’s rain abated enough for us to enjoy this lovely site for the second time. Its silent monuments placed amid the venerable Japanese pine trees make this place a distillation of all that is beautiful in Japan. Czytaj więcej
My Two Hours of Fame in Imabari
10 czerwca 2025, Japonia ⋅ 🌧 73 °F
This morning Chuck and I decided to take a sea day and not go on our excursion because it was pouring rain. We learned that we were the first cruise ship to anchor here so about 9:30 am I decided that I would go over to the port on a tender just to see what was going on.
When I arrived at the port all of the passengers on the ship who were going on excursions were gone, and I was the only passenger in the welcoming area. A lovely group of kindergartners were just getting ready to leave the area after they had spent the morning greeting passengers. I was able to wave to them and receive a few hugs .
Suddenly, I became the town celebrity and everyone began showering me with attention and love. There were several small vendors set up in the area and they each wanted to show me what they were offering. I got a hand massage with hot spring water and then they wanted to take my picture so that they could use it on their Facebook pages and for advertising.
Once that happened everyone wanted their picture taken with me. I was offered orange juice and then asked to pose with the vendors of the orange juice. Then I was offered a towel and asked to pose with the vendor for the towels.
There were a number of Japanese women offering a tea ceremony to me, and finally there were ladies who wanted to dress me in a kimono and have me pose with them.
There were newspaper and TV reporters there who wanted to ask me questions about where I was from and and how I felt about Japan and their port. They assigned a special interpreter to me and she walked with me everywhere and arranged for photographs to be made and interviews to be conducted. For two hours, I was literally the only person in the area.
Somewhere tonight in Japan, I will be on TV and tomorrow I will be in the newspaper as the esteemed guest from Asheboro, North Carolina. They were all so kind and gracious and grateful that I was willing to pose with them to help promote their products or services. So for two hours today, I was a celebrity in Imabari, Japan .
But truthfully, the people of Japan are the celebrities. They have a gracious hospitality that welcomes everyone. They showered me with love and gifts and smiles. I felt completely embraced by the people of this town and it is a day that I will treasure forever. Czytaj więcej
Sea Day at Imabari
10 czerwca 2025, Japonia ⋅ 🌧 68 °F
The Scenic Eclipse II docked at the port of Imabari sometime overnight. Although we have planned to visit another castle and then to take a bus tour of the city, there is heavy rain outside. I’ve already seen several castles and don’t relish the idea of a bus trip, so I think I will just stay on the ship, do my laundry and talk with friends.
This is the first time a cruise ship has ever visited in Imabari. The small size and the shallow draft of the Scenic Eclipse II allows us to come here. Imabari is neither Tokyo nor Osaka, which see Americans every day. In Imabari having Americans, Aussies, Brits and Germans in town is a really big deal.
The city has given us a royal welcome. At dockside a group of preschool children welcomed our shipmates going ashore with flowers and flags. The mayor of the city and other dignitaries came aboard, and in a short ceremony exchanged flowers and plaques with the captain and crew. The people here seem genuinely glad to see our ship in port. Czytaj więcej
Bridge of Remembrance
9 czerwca 2025, Japonia ⋅ 🌧 70 °F
On May 11, 1955 one hundred Japanese junior high school students died. They were on a field trip on the Seto Sea, a part of the Great Inland Sea of Japan. Thick fog and a lack of radar caused their ferry boat, the Shiun Maru, to collide with another ferry operated by Japan’s National Railway system. The ships quickly sank and 168 people lost their lives. This collision was the fifth in five years, and the second with fatalities.
The Japanese government began plans for an ambitious project to construct the world’s longest bridge, stretching eight miles across the Seto Sea. Built over the period 1978–1988, it is one of the three routes of the Honshū–Shikoku Bridge Project connecting Honshū and Shikoku islands and the only one to carry rail traffic. The total length is 13.1 kilometers (8.1 mi), and the longest span, the Minami Bisan-Seto Bridge, is 1,100 m (3,600 ft).
Today’s visit introduced us to this marvel of engineering. The top deck carries motor traffic in two directions, while the level underneath carries trains. Before the construction of the bridge, the ferry took approximately one hour to cross. Now by automobile, the trip can be made in 20 minutes. The connection of the two islands has literally changed the culture and language. The two islands previously had markedly different customs and dialects. Now they have begun to merge.
Midway across it is an exit ramp that spirals down 574 feet to a rest area and a visitors center. At that rest stop Glenda and I had an interesting time getting our tickets from a vending machine so that we could buy an ice cream cone at the visitors center. The machine did not offer English as an option but a very kind Japanese worker in the ice cream bar came and assisted us with our purchase.
It was a foggy day so we did not get the pictures we had hoped for, but even so, I include some that will give an idea of the massive complexity of this grand engineering project.
It seems that the wonders of Japan never stop. On our way back to the Scenic Eclipse II we passed one of the shipyards that makes Japan the leading shipbuilding nation in the world. As if that weren’t enough, when we returned to the ship we saw a shoreside demonstration of the Matchlock Gun Corps of Takamatsu Castle. Using reproductions of ancient weapons, they showed how fifteenth-century firearms replaced swords, pikes and arrows as instruments for combat.
Another day, another amazing adventure in this remarkable nation. Czytaj więcej
The Wild Wild East
9 czerwca 2025, Japonia ⋅ 🌧 70 °F
Marugame Castle in Kagawa Prefecture— they call it a castle, but it’s actually a watchtower. When it was built in the twelfth century, it was crucial to the defense of this kingdom.
In many ways, it was much like the other castles we’ve explored this past week—beautiful, meticulously crafted, and incredibly expensive to build and maintain.
Why was it needed? Why was it so important? Visiting our fourth castle in seven days sparked a broader reflection on history. Let me explain.
Some years ago, we toured the Rhine River in Germany. Along its winding course stood one castle after another—dozens of them, many lovingly preserved, others in picturesque ruins. The sheer number made me pause and wonder: Why so many castles in Germany?
Today, standing on the grounds of Marugame Castle, the same question came to mind: Why so many castles in Japan?
In medieval Germany, the answer was often a simple one. A local warlord—or, more bluntly, a thug with enough money and muscle—would claim a stretch of territory and build a fortress. Some even strung chains across the river to extract tolls from passing boats. With enough success, they expanded their domain, sometimes becoming dukes or princes. The most ambitious of all became kings. It was a progression fueled not by nobility of character, but by raw power and opportunism.
It’s a pattern we’ve seen in other stories, too. Growing up, we watched Westerns where a ruthless cattle baron would muscle out competition, employ a gang of hired guns, and take over a town. The formula was familiar: one man seizing power and controlling the local economy—until, of course, the hero in the white hat rode in to set things right.
Japan’s history followed a similar arc, though without the cowboy in the white hat. In the 12th century, with no strong central government, the most cunning or brutal swordsman might rise to local prominence. Rivals were eliminated or subdued. Castles began as simple watchtowers—tools of control, not comfort. Alliances between these local powers were made and broken, wars erupted, and over time, these opportunists rebranded themselves as the noble class.
Centuries later, we tour their castles, marvel at their artistry, and stroll through their exquisite gardens. From a safe distance, history takes on a certain charm.
Yet beneath the beauty lies a past of countless forgotten wars, petty rivalries, and shifting power. Japan, like Europe, is dotted with these reminders—fortresses that speak of a turbulent age when might made right.
One can only hope that humanity will someday outgrow the old cycles of power-grabs and petty wars, whether waged in armor or in business suits. History, though, suggests the tendency is hard to escape.
And so it goes. Czytaj więcej
Badge of the Samurai
8 czerwca 2025, Japonia ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F
One of the reasons the town of Bizen became so important in medieval Japan was that it was located at the intersection of three major trading routes that ended in Japan’s “Inland Sea.”
Another important feature in the town’s ancient success was the Yoshii River. Japan has no large iron deposits. The Yoshii River, however, carries down from the mountains, not only the potters’ clay, but also an unusual type of iron-laden sand. Burn it in a hot fire and you get iron and carbon. While the rest of the world was proud of their iron weapons, Japanese sword makers, without knowing its chemical content, were making blades of steel—harder, sharper and more durable than iron.
Not only did the potter’s craft flourish here, so did that of the very few makers of the weapons that eventually became known as the ”Samurai sword.”
Around the end of the 12th century, the Kobizen school here laid the foundation for sword production. Bizen became a kingdom renowned for its wonderful sword crafting techniques and the high quality of the blades produced here.
For centuries Japanese swords have been prized, however, not as weapons, but rather as works of art. During the ages of the Shoguns, the ruler awarded such swords to his Samurai knights as a badge of office.
Up until 1000 years ago, warriors used these swords in combat. The Japanese sword is a hacking weapon rather than a piercing weapon. Soldiers swung their swords to slash the head off of an enemy, or to cut the legs off a horse in a cavalry attack. By the time of the Samurai, however, the military no longer used swords. Pikes, spears, arrows and gunpowder rendered the sword as obsolete. Among the swords we saw on display, the most recent weapon we could find that had actually been used in combat was dated to the early 15th century.
Master swordsmith Toshimitsu Imaizumi was born near here just before the turn of the twentieth century. Influenced by his grandfather, he took an interest in Japanese swords when he was a junior in high school. He started making swords. While working at a cotton mill in nearby Kurashiki City, he began the study of forging Japanese swords, and accepting the invitations of the people here who were involved in the craft.
After World War 2 the Samurai sword was outlawed, and the government collected all it could find. Some very elaborate, very old swords were declared national treasures and were put on display in museums close to the towns where they were made. The government displayed ninety percent of these in the museum we saw today, the Bizen Osafune Japanese Sword Museum. Professionals estimate that between 80 and 90 percent of all historic samurai swords were made within a one-mile radius of this town.
During the ban on sword production, Imaizumi stayed in Bizen continuing his studies, making blades and small knives.
The revival of Japanese sword-making began when the postwar ban was lifted in 1954. Imaizumi resumed his experiments with full-size Samurai swords, attempting to recapture some techniques which had been lost over the centuries. For example, he learned that the ancient Samurai swords’ hard edge is the result of a process of repeatedly folding the semi-molten steel and hammering it into over 33,000 laminated layers. Swords are now made the same way.
Imaizumi began to win numerous awards at Japanese sword expositions, attracted many disciples, and continued his own research into making his own steel compounds and quenching methods up until his death at age 97. He always had great enthusiasm for crafting swords, and he left a legacy of many great swords as a pioneer of the Bizen sword renaissance.
So today they are works of art to be acquired by collectors. And how beautiful they are! It takes two years to make one, and a new one costs as much as a luxury car.
Somehow it was very satisfying today to see craftsmen making object exactly as they were made a thousand years ago, using the same materials, methods and techniques. This age-long consistency is just one of the things that make Japan such a land of wonder. Czytaj więcej
Gifts from the Earth
8 czerwca 2025, Japonia ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F
During the Edo Period six families were supported by the ruling Ikeda Clan of Bizen to make pottery. The Kimura family is one of those six families. Ichiyou Kimura is the thirteenth generation of the Kimura family making pottery. Their presence in the craft is so significant that the style of pots thrown here are classed in the “Kimura” tradition.
Ichiyou Kimura led us through his outlet store and workshop, where he showed us the kiln his father built in 1947, and explained to us the intricacies of pot making here in Bizen, the center of ceramics for all of Japan.
Of course, we have potteries in North Carolina. You may know that Seagrove is sometimes referred to as “jug town.” The potters in central North Carolina were discovered in the early twentieth century when wealthy easterners traveled south to Florida and discovered local potters halfway down the east coast. Abby Aldrich Rockefeller fell in love with American folk art, and suddenly the rural South became chic. Families such as the Rockefellers and the Tufts became patrons for some of the indigenous potters located in the sandhills. The materials and the designs the potters used went back to colonial days in the southeast.
If there is one thing that disappoints me about the potters of Jugtown today, it is that they rarely use local materials and traditional designs. Instead of using local clay, the Seagrove potters usually import their clay from as far away as Africa and Asia. What impresses me about the potters that we saw here in Japan today is that they still dig clay from the hills surrounding their town. The glazes, colors and designs of their craft go back to the ninth century. They have changed neither their designs, their processes nor their materials.
The pieces we saw were beautiful. Of course, there are some trendy little trinkets for the tourists, such as tiny ceramic cats or chickens. But they still make the traditional rice bowls, cups for tea ceremonies, and bowls for foods and beverages. Their glazes do not contain lead, so all of the pieces are food-safe. In one shop I saw an elaborate dragon made completely out of ceramics. It was an elegant piece of art.
The pieces here are not cheap, but with the forming of the pots, the firing of the kiln, and the finishing of the pieces it takes about two weeks to make a pot. The color and design of each piece is governed by the rate at which the clay is allowed to heat up and cool down. Therein lies the art. Obviously, the pieces are prepared in bulk, and once the kiln is hot, as many pieces as possible are fired. Firing takes place only a few times each year.
It was a privilege to see this ancient art performed before our eyes. When you come to Japan, don’t miss this presentation of the master’s craft.
The town of Bizen has other attractions as well. While many in our group today were still shopping, our guide pointed out to me two interesting sites. Half a block north was a small Shinto Shrine. I had time so I left our crowd and found a lovely, quiet little sanctuary halfway up a small mountain. A stairway led to the top. I entered the sanctuary and spent a few silent moments of solitude.
The other place our guide mentioned was an old house with a traditional thatched roof rarely seen in Japan today. While Glenda shopped for more ceramics, I took a few photos.
With these happy memories safely stored, we left for our next destination in this lovely town. Czytaj więcej

Podróżnik
I would love to see more pictures of pottery! I have potter friends who have traveled to Japan just for demonstrations and exhibitions. One of my instructors studied there. But if you are looking for cheap pottery, I’d be glad to be your source! My goal is to become mediocre!

Chuck CookDid you know Steve Compton is an expert in North Carolina pottery? He has published a book, and I’m sure he would be happy to talk with you. He lives in Raleigh now. Give him a call.
The White Heron Castle
7 czerwca 2025, Japonia ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F
White Heron Castle is perfect. It looks as though it was built yesterday. How did this happen?
This place is one of Japan’s best-preserved castles and a UNESCO World Heritage site. It started out way back in 1333 as a small fortress, but over the centuries it grew into the massive structure you see today, completed in 1609. Here’s the cool part: the castle has never been attacked or damaged in battle. That’s probably why it still looks so pristine.
Getting there, though, is no easy stroll. The castle is protected by three moats and a maze of clever defenses. The path leading up to the main entrance is steep and uneven—designed to slow down intruders. It slowed us down too! We were huffing and puffing by the time we reached the top. The crew discouraged shipmates with mobility issues from attempting the climb over irregular cobblestones and small boulders implanted in the roadway to discourage pedestrian progress. Even Glenda decided (wisely) to sit out this trek up the mountain. Inside, we spotted all sorts of defense features: narrow slits for arrows, loopholes for guns, and plenty of places for soldiers to rain destruction on anyone foolish enough to try and break in.
And then there’s the front door: a three-foot-thick sandwich of oak and steel. Good luck getting past that! We also noticed more “murder holes” along the walls—perfect for pouring hot oil or launching arrows at attackers below. Thankfully, today’s visitors just get treated to a history lesson, not a medieval assault.
A couple of unexpected details really stood out to me. First, the castle actually had indoor toilets, which I wasn’t expecting for a 17th-century structure. Soldiers under siege could use long wooden troughs that were flushed with buckets of water. Pretty advanced, right?
Even more impressive is how the castle was built to handle earthquakes. The main tower is cleverly suspended from massive wooden beams supported by two enormous wooden pillars passing through all three floors down into the bedrock. This arrangement allows the building to sway with the moving ground instead of collapsing. The builders knew what they were doing.
And let’s not forget—this place is gorgeous. With its bright white walls perched high on the hill, it looks more like a palace than a military fortress. I kept having to remind myself this was designed for war, not for royalty. The beauty of the place is stunning.
The best part? The castle was never actually used in battle. No sieges, no fires, no destruction—just seven centuries of history, still standing for us to explore today. It really does feel like stepping into a time machine. If you’re anywhere near Himeji, put this one at the top of your list. You won’t regret it. Czytaj więcej
Kokoen Gardens
7 czerwca 2025, Japonia ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F
It seems that every garden we visit is more beautiful than the previous one. Such was the case today with Kokoen Gardens.
Its expanse is 3.5 hectares (8.5 acres) in size, located just south-west of Himeji Castle. It consists of 9 separate strolling-style gardens of different sizes and landscaping themes in style of the Edo Period (1603 and 1868). The largest of the gardens is called “The Garden of the Lord's Residence.” Beside it lies the “Tea Ceremony Garden” with the Sukiya-style tea house. “Souju-an,” with its authentic Edo Period buildings and landscaping, is used as a backdrop for period TV dramas and movies.
The ponds throughout the gardens are teeming with large, colorful coy fish, which swim gracefully, adding to the serene ambiance. While our guide did not say anything about the age of these fish, similar coy fish, grace the ponds around the Imperial Palace in Beijing, China. Some of them are reputed to be more than 100 years old. In China these fish have become symbolic of longevity. Regardless of the age of the fish we saw today, they were a beautiful addition to the gardens.
The gardens are not huge, occupying less than 10 acres. Today they proved large enough, however, to allow Glenda and me to find a few places separated from the other tourists. It’s easy to find a quiet little niche under a pine tree, or sitting in a rock where one can listen to the splashing of a small waterfall. It is difficult to imagine a more peaceful, or a more beautiful place than the Kokoen Gardens. Czytaj więcej

PodróżnikWe had koi fish in our pond when moved to Wilson 13 years ago. Alas, only goldfish there now! All this looks beautiful, Chuck! Thanks for the lovely photos!

Chuck CookIn the gardens yesterday, Glenda and I kept saying, “We wish Ellen were here to see this!“ It was beyond anything I’ve ever seen as far as the horticulture is concerned. You’ve got to come to this place!
Landing in Kobe
7 czerwca 2025, Japonia ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F
Although there has been a settlement here since about 300 A.D., Kobe was not significant until about 150 years ago. What made it so important?
It was one of the first Japanese ports to open to the outside world after American Commodore Matthew Perry demanded in 1853 that the Japanese open their ports. The area around the Kobe port is called Meriken, which comes from the word American.
Rice is grown near here so this is a major area for sake production. It is different from that rice wine made in Kyoto. There the water is soft, and it makes the sake sweeter. The water here in Kobe has more minerals in it and so that sake is very dry.
As we sailed in, Gil Dickson and I stood out on the veranda, looking at a Mitsubishi plant, which was a submarine factory in World War II. As we reached the inner Harbor, we saw the curved lines of the Oriental Hotel. From across the port, the curved lines of the Eclipse appear to be a shadow of the outline of the hotel.
This area is not only an industrial center of Japan, but the agricultural area outside the city is also the home of Kobe beef. The cattle destined for the table are fed a special diet of grain. To increase their appetite they are also fed gallons of beer. The cows regularly have their tummies massaged, and are sometimes treated to classical music as they eat. The result is a steak with unusually consistent marbling, extraordinary tenderness, and a delicious flavor.🥩 Czytaj więcej
The Sail-out
6 czerwca 2025, Japonia ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F
You always get the most interesting photographs during the sail-out. We are now leaving the port of Osaka, and now we are on our way to Kobe for tomorrow’s exciting activities. I snapped a few photographs of the port which I hope you’ll enjoy.
I have packed more lightly for this trip than for any previous one, so I have to be very careful about doing my laundry often. Glenda has done yeoman’s work to get our laundry done today. We folded it and put it away so our state room is still very neat. Supper is next, and I think we’ll just miss tonight’s entertainment in the theater and have a quiet evening together. Czytaj więcej
Welcome Aboard
6 czerwca 2025, Japonia ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F
We have arrived aboard the Scenic Eclipse II, and ever since, we have been treated like royalty. We quickly threw our gear into our stateroom because the crewman who led us to our room had already invited us for lunch at the Yacht Club Restaurant, just aft of our stateroom on Deck 7.
I started snooping around and found the theater, the Elements Restaurant on deck 4, and the Observation Lounge at the front of the ship. At 4:15 we have a safety briefing, and sail-out should occur just after 6:00 pm.
The ship is utterly beautiful, the food has been fantastic and we are all set to explore another part of this fascinating world. Czytaj więcej
Sanjusangendo
6 czerwca 2025, Japonia ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F
The name means “The temple of 37 bays.” I didn’t count them, but I’m sure it has at least 37. This building is extremely long, occupying a whole city block, and was built in the 13th century. It lies right next door to our hotel, and is the only temple in the world that houses over 2000 statues of the various manifestations of the Buddha. It is very old, very dark, and it reeked with the smell of sandalwood incense and a creepy feeling of the numinous.
I haven’t quite figured out the connection, but each year there is an archery competition here. A priest anoints an arrow with holy water and touches the heads of a thousand worshippers who line up for anointing. This practice is believed to prevent headaches. Unfortunately, we were not able to take pictures inside, but the gardens outside are beautiful and I hope you’ll enjoy these shots. Czytaj więcej
Tea, anyone?
5 czerwca 2025, Japonia ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F
When somebody invites you for tea in Japan, they’re not just asking you to come to a regular tea party. I was attracted to the notion of the traditional Japanese tea ceremony, partly because of my respect for the Christian tradition of the Holy Eucharist. Both of them are highly stylized, highly ritualized meals.
There is a common misunderstanding about the Japanese tea ceremony. Some authors, even Japanese authors, find the long, detailed, ceremony abstruse. Yet today, a group of women took us through the Japanese tea ceremony, and it was a delightful experience.
Unlike most tea to which we’re accustomed, the Japanese drink Matcha, which consists of pulverized tea leaves mixed with boiling water. The flavor is very similar to the red tea we usually serve at our tables. However, the consistency is much thicker, about the same as buttermilk.
The use of the hands, the position of the utensils, the location of the serving bowls, all have symbolic significance in the Japanese tea ceremony. Roles of server and guest are highly scripted, with traditional invitations and responses for server and guests memorized. Yet it is very courteous, very quiet—joyful, yet peaceful. It takes time. It cannot be rushed.
Our 34 year-old tour guide told us that although she learned the tea ceremony in high school, she has never performed it at home. In fact, she said that she did not know any of her friends who had done it. “It’s a tradition,” she said, “reserved for old folks.” This may be a tradition which will soon pass out of use.
The last time we were in Kyoto, we participated in the tea ceremony in a Buddhist monastery. One of our shipmates asked the monk conducting the service, “How often do you do this ceremony? Is it just for birthdays, holidays or anniversaries?“
The monk responded, “No, it can be performed anytime. And it should be performed often. You see, the tea ceremony celebrates the fact that this moment is sacred. Never again will this group of people be gathered in this place for this ceremony. Even if we were to assemble the same group of people together for another tea ceremony, it would not be the same. The people would be different. They would have changed—just in the process of living. They will have had new experiences, new trials, maybe a different job or spouse. Even if the same group were assembled in the same room, another tea ceremony would not be the same. The tea ceremony,” he explained, “celebrates the holiness and the uniqueness of this moment in time.”
I’m a fan.
The matron called for a volunteer to come up and prepare the tea after she had shown us how it was done. Shane volunteered me, so I went up and did it. I felt totally lost, but our patient mentors got me through it. I was honored.
So even though you may not know the rules of a formal Japanese tea ceremony, why not invite a friend over for a quiet cup of tea and conversation? Put away the cell phone and the iPad for an hour. Allow no interruptions. BE with your friend. In doing this, you would have accomplished most of the purposes of the ceremony. You would be with another person in quiet, joyful communion. And after all, isn’t that really the best part of life? Czytaj więcej
Geisha: Icon and Anomaly
5 czerwca 2025, Japonia ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F
Geishas are different.
The district of Gion in downtown Kyoto is the center of the geisha district of Japan. A museum here showcases the profession.
The concept of the geisha is a cultural feature unique to Japan, and it is difficult for outsiders to understand it. A young girl about 14 to 16 years of age makes a commitment to be a geisha, either because she chooses it or because her family urges her to do so. She is enrolled in a boarding school with the strictest rules. She is on trial for one year, after which she may be released from the school if she is judged to be insufficiently talented or pretty. During that time she begins to learn complicated dance and musical routines that are as old, respected and as well known to the Japanese as Shakespeare.
Once she is accepted into the school, she begins to live like a nun. She cannot have an iPhone, an iPad or any other electronic device to communicate with the outside world. She may not see her family, but is allowed occasionally to write them letters. She may not leave her dormitory without a chaperone. She is trained, not only in dance and music, but also in the art of conversation, etiquette, dress, make-up, art, literature, and any other subject that will be useful in her professional career. That career will be focused exclusively on entertaining men.
From the time she is 16 years of age until about the age of 22 this regimen continues. During that time she is called a maiko, and her kimono is marked by a red sash around her neck under her kimono. Later as an advanced maiko, her sash will be white.
When she is around 22 or 23 years of age she takes an examination, which, if she passes, earns her the title of geiko. At that point in her career, she is released from all of the old school rules and is considered an independent contractor, a professional geisha. She is not allowed to marry, but she may have a boyfriend. Indeed, it is permitted for a geisha to have a baby as long as she does not marry.
A large number of young women leave the profession at this point to marry and raise a family. However, a few remain in the profession, and a very few emerge from this phase as a geisha superstar. Most geikos earn a decent living, as wealthy businessmen invite a team of three or more geikos to perform for their affluent male clients who come to visit Japan.
Legally prostitution is forbidden in Japan, but in practice a wealthy businessman may engage a geiko for services beyond singing and dancing. In fact, a goal of the few geisha superstars is to hook a so-called “sugar daddy” to support her financially for life, to provide her with an apartment and to become his mistress.
Whether one finds the custom acceptable or not, the geisha lifestyle is a lonely one. There is intense competition among the geikos, professionally, financially and personally throughout their lives. A geiko can have few friends.
To us Westerners the contradictions in the geisha lifestyle seem enormous. But to the Japanese, it is simply a profession that is a respected cultural tradition. Czytaj więcej
Silver Pavilion
5 czerwca 2025, Japonia ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F
Its official name is Higashiyama Jisho-ji Temple, and it is one of the sub-temples of Shokoku-ji Temple.
It is said that the name Ginkaku-ji Temple came from the Edo period, when it was called Ginkaku-ji Temple in contrast to Kinkaku-ji Temple.(That is, it is called the “Silver Pavilion” in contrast to the “Golden Pavilion.”)
It originated as the mountain villa Higashiyamadono, built by Ashikaga Yoshimasa, the eighth shogun of the Muromachi shogunate. After Yoshimasa's death, it became a Rinzai sect temple and was named Jisho-ji after Yoshimasa's posthumous Buddhist name, Jisho-in.
Yoshimasa, who became head of the family at the age of nine and the Shogunate at the age of fifteen, spent his entire life projecting his entire aesthetic sense into the creation of a grand mountain villa that reflected the essence of Higashiyama culture in its simplicity and beauty.
I suppose the thing that attracted us to it is simply that it has the most beautiful gardens that we’ve seen yet. The man who built it loved to see the moon, so there is a wonderful 8 foot high concrete cone, which he originally made out of sand. It is for the sole purpose of allowing him to view the moon more clearly. I know it does not have the prestige of the Golden Pavilion, but I think it is beautiful nonetheless.
Coming back to the bus we did a little shopping. There’s a photo here of Bette buying a little bottle of sake. We went to a wonderful tempura restaurant that had shrimp a foot-long. I don’t know how they did it, but it was wonderful. Czytaj więcej
Nijo-jo Castle—From Isolation to Empire
4 czerwca 2025, Japonia ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F
To describe Japan’s last four centuries merely as tumultuous would be a profound understatement. Throughout this period, powerful shoguns vied relentlessly for territorial dominance. In many cases, rival armies clashed under the belief that they were each serving the will of the divine—yet silent—emperor.
By the mid-19th century, the Tokugawa clan had emerged as the preeminent power in Japan. The military exploits of this formidable dynasty are dramatized in the recent Netflix series Shogun.
For more than 300 years, Japan resisted virtually all Western influence. This period of isolation came to an abrupt end on July 8, 1853, when American Commodore Matthew Perry sailed into Tokyo Bay, compelling Japan to open itself to the broader world. Among the reforms imposed upon the shogunate was the restoration of the emperor as head of state. The final Tokugawa shogun had little choice but to abdicate.
By that time, the primary Tokugawa residence had already been established in Tokyo—a palace that would later form the nucleus of the modern Imperial Palace, which the imperial family continues to occupy. However, one of the last grand Tokugawa palaces was constructed here in Kyoto, Japan’s ancient capital. That was the palace we visited today: the renowned Nijo-jo Castle.
While photography of the palace interior is prohibited, the opulence of its design must be emphasized. Every surface—whether of wood, metal, or lacquer—is a masterpiece of artistry. The level of craftsmanship in the carvings, metalwork, and paintings is nothing short of astonishing.
Our guide explained that the shogun was heavily insulated by layers of advisors. Only four members of his innermost circle were permitted to address him directly. Communications had to pass through successive ministers before reaching an official empowered to speak on the shogun’s behalf. Mannequins within the palace halls depict the abdication in 1867 of the last shogun, named Tokugawa Yoshinobu, offering visitors a vivid sense of the governance and protocol of the era.
Without photographs, perhaps the closest comparison I can offer is to the richly decorated temple interiors we have visited elsewhere in Kyoto—though the rooms here are far grander and more elaborate. Traditional Japanese interiors employed minimal furniture. Chairs were absent; instead, individuals sat upon the floor. Tables were small, and the primary implements included portable oil lamps and cast-iron charcoal braziers—items that accompanied the shogunate from one palace to another.
Exhibits throughout the palace also showcased court attire. Both men and women traditionally wore elaborate garments consisting of up to twelve layers of kimono.
Much like late 19th-century China, Japan—after its centuries of seclusion—recognized that the Western world had far surpassed it in technological and industrial development. This realization was difficult to confront. In the years following Commodore Perry’s expedition, a small group of Japanese youths illegally traveled to Europe, where they witnessed the astonishing advancements of the West. Upon their return, they reported their findings. Their accounts spurred a national movement not merely to adopt Western practices, but to surpass them. Thus began a period of rapid modernization during which Japan embraced and refined Western technology, industrial methods, and military strategy—emerging by the 1930s as a global power.
After Yoshinobu abdicated in 1867 and the shogunate was abolished, he was spared execution and allowed to retire. He later became a duke and a member of the House of Peers, engaging in various hobbies like painting and photography. Yoshinobu died in 1913. His successor, Iesato, also became a prominent public figure, serving in the House of Peers and was even considered for the role of prime minister. Although the formal structure of the government changed, the ancient traditions of samurai militarism, bushido and a figurehead emperor remained a part of Japanese culture, erupting in the campaigns of Generals Kanji Ishiwara and Hideki Tojo in the first half of the twentieth century.
Our visit offered insight into the historical reverence once afforded to the emperor. Prior to World War II, the Japanese widely regarded their emperor as a divine being. Today, this belief has largely faded; the imperial family, like its British counterpart, is deeply respected and cherished, though no longer deified.
Gardens surrounding the castle were open for exploration. We captured several beautiful images of the serene lake and landscaped grounds that encircle the castle.
Today’s visit to Nijo-jo Castle was both inspiring and deeply informative. The Japanese people possess a rich and distinguished cultural heritage. Their capacity to adopt and improve upon foreign ideas and technologies is truly extraordinary.
It was a privilege to explore this historic site and, through it, to gain a deeper understanding of this remarkable nation and its people. Czytaj więcej
Golden Reflections: Kinkaku-ji Temple
4 czerwca 2025, Japonia ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F
One of the true highlights of our Kyoto visit was Kinkaku-ji, better known as the Golden Pavilion. This stunning temple, covered in shimmering gold leaf, seems to float above its mirror-like pond—a sight that completely captivates visitors. The way the reflection changes with each passing cloud makes it feel alive.
The site itself has a fascinating history. Originally the family villa of a wealthy Kyoto clan, it was taken over in 1397 by one of the shoguns, who built a palace around a central golden stupa. The estate became a hub for politics, religion, and culture. After the shogun’s death, he willed it to a local group of Buddhist monks. Today, it belongs to the Rinzai Zen Buddhist denomination and has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1994.
At the top of the hill stands a traditional tea house that taught me something I had never known. I used to think all Japanese homes were simple and minimalist inside—but I recently learned otherwise. Most modern Japanese apartments are actually quite small and packed with the same appliances, conveniences and furniture we have in our homes. The image of bare, paper-lined walls comes not from typical Japanese homes but from the traditional tea house. Families wealthy enough to own a decently-sized lot for their home sometimes build a tea house in their garden. Some families who have lived in the same home for generations have a tea house built a century ago that from the outside often looks like a weathered little shack—but inside, it’s a beautifully simple, serene space, perfect for the traditional Japanese tea ceremony.
As we wandered the garden paths and watched the clouds drift over the Golden Pavilion, the scenery transformed moment by moment. The nearby waterfalls and winding mountain trails only added to the magic of the place. Czytaj więcej
Bamboo Dreams—Hidden Temples
4 czerwca 2025, Japonia ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F
If you want to escape Kyoto’s crowds for a bit, Daikaku-ji Temple is the place to go. Once an imperial villa, it became a sacred retreat way back in 876 A.D. Today it’s nestled beside Osawa-no-ike, one of Japan’s oldest man-made lakes. The setting is peaceful, and the reflection of the temple on the water is pure magic.
It reminded me a little of the famous Golden Pavilion—except without the mobs of tourists and school kids! While the Golden Pavilion buzzes with selfie sticks and tour groups, Daikaku-ji flies under the radar. Aside from a small wedding going on (with a Buddhist priest presiding), we practically had the place to ourselves.
There’s also a bamboo forest here that is not surrounded by the crowds. It’s a little smaller and a little quieter than the one at Tenryu-Ji. Not so spectacular. Not so showy. But quiet and full of wonder. Czytaj więcej

































































































































































































































































Podróżnik
Those are my favorite hydrangeas!
PodróżnikYour favorites!!!