• Penang: Buddhist Temples

    15. maj 2023, Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 91 °F

    Our tour of George Town included stops at two of the city’s most important Buddhist temples … the first one Siamese; the second one Chinese.

    Wat Chaiyamangkhalaram is home to a reclining Buddha, which the locals also refer to as the sleeping Buddha.

    Said to be the oldest Siamese temple in Penang, it sits on land that was granted by Queen Victoria during the era known as the British Straits Settlement. Though the land was cleared in 1795, it wasn’t until 1845 that the temple was founded. It took another 100 years or so for it to be given the name by which it is known today.

    The reclining Buddha — named Phra Chaiya Mongkol — is one the world’s longest such statues. Measuring some 108 feet end to end, the statue also serves as a columbarium in which urns of cremated remains are housed.

    This temple was very impressive, but the Chinese Buddhist temple we visited later in the day was perhaps more so … primarily for its location overlooking the city and its pagoda and pavilion.

    Kek Lok Si is the largest Buddhist temple in Malaysia … and a major site of pilgrimage for Buddhists from all around Southeast Asia. The name translates as … kek-lok = literally, supreme joy; and si= temple.

    The temple complex, which was constructed between 1890-1930, sits in the foothills of Air Itam Mountain. It consists of prayer halls; assembly pavilions; statues of the Buddha, as well as those of bodhisattvas and Chinese deities; a tiered-pagoda; a pavilion with a gigantic Guanyin statue, and more.

    First, we went to the main terrace to check out the city views that had been veiled from our eyes when we were at Penang Hill. Next, we went to the pavilion that is dominated by a 120-foot tall Guanyin statue. A meander of the grounds followed … with a photo op with the Gelmans in front of the prayer hall.

    Unfortunately, the heat got to us before we had a chance to climb up to the seven-story high tiered-pagoda that was commissioned for the temple by Rama VI, the Thai king who ruled between 1910-1925. The pagoda is unique in that it reflects a combination of Burmese, Thai, and Chinese architectural styles. Decorated with 10,000 alabaster and bronze Buddha statues, it is appropriately referred to as the “Ten Thousand Buddhas Pagoda.”
    Læs mere

  • Penang: Pinang Peranakan Mansion

    15. maj 2023, Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    Penang or Pinang? Which is it?

    Well, it’s Penang in English but Pinang in Malay … specifically, Pulau Pinang … which means the Island of Penang.

    Eagle eyes might notice the different spellings in the title of this footprint, so I thought it best clarified.

    Our visit to the Pinang Peranakan Mansion on Church Street was definitely a highlight of today’s tour around George Town.

    The sign at the entrance explained the purpose of the mansion-turned-museum …

    “Depicting the typical home of a rich Baba of more than a century ago, the opulent lifestyle of these locally acculturated [assimilated] Chinese is recreated … to offer a glimpse of their many customs and traditions. More than just a Baba-Nyonya museum, this century-old stately mansion of eclectic design and architecture incorporates Chinese carved-wood panels with English floor tiles and Scottish iron-works. Built at the end of the 19th century by one of local history’s famous personalities, the “Hai Kee Chan’ or Sea Remembrance Store had once served as the residence and office of Kapitan Cina Chung Keng Kwee.”

    (“Peranakan” generally refers to a person of mixed Chinese and Malay/Indonesian heritage. “Baba-Nyonya” is a combination of two words. Baba, literally means father in many languages. In this instance, it is an honorific of respect used to address Chinese men born in the British Straits Settlements. It is common for Peranakan men to be known as Baba. As for Nyonya — it is the term applied to Peranakan women.)

    We found the mansion quite fascinating … ornate carvings; plenty of gold gilding; beautiful stained glass details; colorful Chinese ceramics; marble statues; furnishings embellished with mother of pearl; period clothing and beaded accessories; and so much more.

    We spent just over an hour at the mansion. I could have easily spent twice or thrice as long studying all the details that kept popping up around every corner.
    Læs mere

  • Penang: George Town Touring

    15. maj 2023, Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    By 8:30a, Insignia was tied up at the Swettenham Cruise Pier and cleared by the authorities. Fifteen minutes later, we were standing at the port exit, awaiting our driver/guide for the tour Sonia had arranged for the four of us through Viator.

    We started out in the heart of George Town, the capital of the State of Penang. I had read that the area had a number of beautiful murals. Indeed, we saw some interesting ones. And also took a peek at the Yap Kongsi Chinese Temple on Armenian Street.

    Back in the car, we were driven to the Pinang Peranakan Mansion on Church Street … which I will write about separately … it deserves its own footprint.

    Next, our driver took us to the House of Amber. He described it as a museum. Perhaps part of it was. But sensing that it was more of a shopping stop, we told him we were not interested. We did, however, agree to a batik demonstration at another stop. Managed to get out of there without making a dent in the wallet.

    The first of the two temples on our itinerary followed. Again, I will post about it separately … combining it with the second temple we visited before returning to the ship.

    By the time we were ready to take the funicular to the top of Flagstaff Hill — one of several peaks in the Penang Hill area — the blue skies and sunshine that we’d been enjoying were replaced by low-lying clouds and downpours. Bad timing.

    With the summit shrouded in clouds, we knew there wouldn’t be much to see in the way of expansive scenery. So, I’m not sure why we agreed to pay the funicular fare to go up. Perhaps it was the hope that we could have lunch at the summit that swayed us. As it turns out, the eateries at the top station were more or less like stalls at a food court. The place was packed … mostly, I think, with those seeking shelter from the continued downpour. So, no lunch for us.

    Instead, grateful that we had an umbrella, we went for a quick stroll.

    The overlooks — as anticipated — had little in the way of views because of the weather. What was visible was veiled by the mist and clouds. We were about to throw in the towel when we spotted a colorful temple.

    Sri Aruloli Thirumurugan is apparently one of the oldest Hindu temples in Penang. It dates back to to the 1800s. At that time, it was a small shrine to the Hindu deity Murugan … associated with a time of devotion and sacrifice by the Indian sepoys [Indian soldiers serving under British or European orders] and sedan chair carriers. Today, instead of the shrine, one finds an ornate temple here … in the Dravidian architectural style of South India.

    Even on a dreary, rainy day, the colorful figures decorating the roof of the temple were quite cheerful. The cheer continued in the hall, where a pandit — Hindu priest, if you will — was decorating a statue of Ganesh, the Elephant God, with floral garlands and preparing offerings for visitors.

    By 1:30p, having rejoined Sonia and Boris, we were ready to head down the hill. The lower the funicular went, the bluer the skies became. There was no sign of any wet stuff falling. Penang Hill, however, was still shrouded in clouds, so our decision to leave was a good one.

    Seeing as how the weather had improved — though it was quite hot and humid — we allowed ourselves to be convinced by our guide to visit another temple. Good decision … though the story will be part of my temples footprint.

    It was getting on towards 3:00p when we finally got back to the ship. The temperature read 88F … but the feels-like temp was 98F. We were done! And more than ready for a tepid shower and the air conditioned comfort of our cabin.

    Refreshed, and with an ice cold strawberry milkshake on hand, we took advantage of the decent wi-fi strength to go online to complete our Singapore Arrival Card. Easy enough to do through the free websites section of the ship’s wi-fi portal. With the pdf files downloaded, and email confirmations as a back-up, we’re keeping fingers crossed that our entry into Singapore will be faster than it was on RTW2017.

    Insignia was already at sea by the time the next rainstorm moved into Penang. We watched as the rain came down in sheets in the distance and veiled Pulau Penang from view. Then, it was time to get ready for dinner with the Gelmans and the Craddocks … to celebrate Sonia’s birthday.
    Læs mere

  • Phuket: Bond … James Bond!

    14. maj 2023, Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    James Bond Island is one of the most popular places to visit from Phuket.

    It’s accessed from mainland Thailand, however. What with traffic most always a mess, it can take two hours or more just to get to the pier from which the long-tail boats depart for Phang Nga Bay … now protected as Ao Phang Nga National Park.

    With all that in mind, once our call on Phuket was changed to an overnight, we decided to book a ship’s tour and add James Bond Island to our plans. It would have to be a cruise-only since we didn’t have time to land on the island.

    The long bus ride gave us a small glimpse into daily life on Phuket, which was quiet today because it is election day. Traffic was light — at least in the morning — and the roads impressively smooth. Nonetheless, it took over two hours to get from the Deep Sea Port to the boat pier.

    On arrival, we were given life jackets to don before we boarded the long-tail boat. These boats have a high bow, which blocks the forward view. So, Mui and I took the last bench, near the boat operator. Yes, the second-hand truck engine used to propel the flat-bottomed vessel — the sole defining characteristic of long-tail boats — was noisy. But we had a better vantage point for photos as we cruised through the waterways lined with mangroves before heading into the open waters of Ao Phang Nga. As well, we didn’t have to share the bench with anyone else.

    The national park is characterized by limestone cliffs and rock formations that are clad in thick forests. Cave systems abound … some of which can be entered by boats for a closer look at the stalactites.

    Small islands dot the bay … the most famous of which are the twin islands of Khao Phing Kan and Koh Ta Pu … better known as James Bond Island because it was used as a filming location in the 1974 Roger Moore 007 film, “The Man with the Golden Gun.”

    In fact, Khao Phing Kan was the home base of the villain of the film … Scaramanga. But it was the limestone needle — Koh Ta Pu — that stole the show. Toto, our guide, said that in the 1997 Brosnan 007 movie, “Tomorrow Never Dies,” Koh Ta Pu also made an appearance, but the setting was used as a replacement for Vietnam’s Ha Long Bay.

    After cruising along the mangroves, our boat took us through a cave, and then moved into the bay. The ride was a pleasant one, with the forward motion of the boat generating a nice breeze that had a delightfully cooling effect. In many ways, the scenery reminded us of Ha Long Bay, where we overnighted on a junk boat when Insignia called there on RTW2017.

    Once we reached the open waters, we made a stop at Koh Panyee, described to us as a fishing village built on stilts. Our stop here included lunch at the Newfern Restaurant, followed by a tour of the village … which was more of a shopping opportunity than a tour.

    Next, we boarded our long-tail boat, donned our life jackets, and headed further into the bay to see James Bond Island. First we, went around to see the iconic needle; and then we cruised over to the other side to see the “slit” in the rock wall that supposedly led to Scaramanga’s lair.

    From James Bond Island, we essentially retraced our route to return to the long-tail boat pier on the mainland.

    Once back ashore, we got on the buses for the drive back to Phuket. Traffic grew heavy once we crossed the bridge that connects the mainland to Phuket. Stop and go for long distances. Conditions were such that Toto announced that we had to head directly back to the ship. Hence no shopping stop. Yay! As it turns out, we beat the 4:30p all aboard by just 15 minutes.

    Once on the move, Insignia turned her bow south to return to Malaysia for our two ports of call on the mainland portion of the country. This means that we will be losing the hour we gained after we left Langkawi a few days ago. Playing games with the time again!
    Læs mere

  • Phuket, Thailand

    13. maj 2023, Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    Phuket was on our itinerary from the get go. However, when Myanmar was canceled, our one-day visit turned into an overnight. And with that overnight came docking privileges at the Deep Sea Port while RCL’s mega ship, Spectrum of the Seas, had to tender its nearly 5,000 passengers.

    With an all-day Oceania tour scheduled for our second day in Phuket, Mui and I decided to take it easy today. He researched resorts on the island and we settled on Grand Centara on Karon Beach … a 45-minute tuk-tuk ride from the port, including a stop at an ATM to pick up Thai Baht for today and our upcoming ports in Thailand.

    To use the resort facilities, we knew that we’d need to purchase day passes … the cost of which would be applied to any food and beverage purchases. We took care of that in the lobby. Then, a golf cart came to take us to the spa, where we each had a delightful 90-minute massage at a fraction of the cost charged by the Aquamar Spa on the ship.

    By the time our treatments and relaxation in the spa were over, it was getting on towards 1:00p. A quick walk around the property to acquaint ourselves with the facility. A quick look-see at the beach where the surf was pounding the shoreline … it was apparent that there would be no swimming in the sea today. Then a tasty al fresco lunch of Thai food at the Coast Beach Club & Bistro.

    We wrapped up with some R&R in the quiet zone near the pool until the light breeze was no longer able to keep us cool. Time for a dip … or two … or three in the pool. Even with the water warm from the sun, it was a refreshing way to end our time at the resort.

    Another tuk-tuk returned us to the port … stopping along the way at a grocery market to pick-up some delicious and aromatic mangos … at a mere $1.20 per kilo. How can you pass up that deal 🤪
    Læs mere

  • Langkawi: Red-Backed Eagle Land

    12. maj 2023, Malaysia ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    New-to-us Port #43.

    Langkawi, Malaysia … the last of the three new ports added to the itinerary when Myanmar was canceled.

    While today’s destination was different from what the original itinerary called for, the temperature wasn’t all that different from what we would have experienced in Myanmar. It was a hot day … high of 93F … with a feels like of 109F … mitigated only slightly by being at a high elevation during the worst of it.

    For this tender port, I opted to organize a tour … more of a car and driver arrangement with a loose, customizable itinerary. Our friends — Sonia & Boris and Younga & David — joined us … and we were off on the first tender to the Resort World pier around 10:00a … a ½ hour before the first O tours were even scheduled to meet up.

    Mount Machinchang — Gunung Mat Chinchang to the locals — is considered the birth place of Malaysia, with the oldest rock formation in SE Asia … formed 550 MYA. Tradition has it that Mounts Mat Chinchang and Raya, and Sawar Hill, were once humans who transformed themselves into their present form. Regardless of how it was formed, this second highest mountain of Malaysia — 2,790 feet high — was our first stop.

    While you can hike through the rainforest to reach the summit, we took the easy way up today by riding the Sky Cab. The bottom station for this cable car is at the Oriental Village … a theme park of sorts. It consists of colorful buildings situated around a central lake. We didn’t dally, however, opting to go directly to the ticket office to exchange our booking voucher for real tickets. Then onward to the skip-the-line queue included in our private gondola ticket.

    Glassed in all around, the gondola afforded us lovely views of the scenery as we rode ever-higher above the lush green canopy of the rainforest blanketing the mountain. We briefly hopped off at the first station to see what was there before continuing up to the summit station.

    Once at the top, we decided that we wanted to do the Sky Bridge, a 410-foot long curved pedestrian bridge described as being a cable-stayed bridge … at 2,170 feet above sea level. Spanning a gorge between two hills, the Sky Bridge received the Prix Acier — the Swiss Steel Design Award — when it was built in 2005 … for outstanding construction that exemplifies architectural quality and technical proficiency of steel works.

    I was under the impression that access to the Sky Bridge was in addition to our Sky Cab admission. So, we got in line to get tickets. But when we approached the window, the woman said we didn’t need to pay extra for it. Yay!

    There are two ways to get to the Sky Bridge from the summit station. One can hike down through the rainforest … and of course, back up again on the way back. Or one can use an inclinator called the SkyGlide. The queue to ride the latter was fairly long, so four of us decided to do the hike while the Gelmans got in line for the SkyGlide.

    The hike through the rainforest wasn’t too difficult, but there were a number of steps to negotiate with some steep stairs at the beginning. Luckily the walk wasn’t too long — just about 10-20 minutes depending on one’s pace — and there was shade. But we still had to contend with the humidity … ugh!

    It was worth it, though. The scenery — even though we had already seen it from both the cable car and the first station platform — was breathtaking. The color of the water was amazing … and would have been even more so without the marine layer that seems to be ever-present in these humid Asian countries.

    Once we all had our fill of the scenery, we returned to the summit station for the ride back down to the Oriental Village. Any hope we had of wandering around the village was dashed by the mid-day heat. So, we decided to check out “Art in Paradise — 3D Art Langkawi” instead … admission included in our Sky Cab tickets.

    We had no idea what to expect. And were quite surprised that we were required to take off our shoes. As it turns out, the exhibit featured over 100 3D paintings with which visitors can interact. Quite surreal at times. But lots of fun and well worth the time.

    It was almost 2:00p by the time we left the exhibit. Rejoining our driver at the van, we asked him to take us to a restaurant for lunch. Despite the odd hour, The Roof, a nearby restaurant that caters mostly to the locals, agreed to accommodate us. Seated in a private room, we were grateful for the A/C that managed to cool us down. The food was excellent … and plentiful; the beer icy cold. A perfect respite before continuing with our tour.

    Next up was to have been a stroll around Kuah Town, the main city in Langkawi. Considering how hot it was, however, we decided to just do a drive through the city. But we couldn’t resist getting out when we arrived at Dataran Lang (Eagle Square) to check out for ourselves Langkawi’s iconic eagle statue.

    Tradition has it that the name Langkawi is derived from two terms … ‘Lang’ from the Malay word ‘helang’ … which means eagle; and‘Kawi' … from a word that means marble or reddish brown. The reference here is to the red-backed sea eagles that can be seen in the skies over the archipelago. We’d seen eagles flying far off in the distance, but the statue gave us our only close encounter of the day.

    Our tour concluded with a stop at Pantai Cenang … a beach described as vibrant and popular. We intended to find a café and relax a bit with some cold drinks. But the ambiance we found at the beach was not one that encouraged us to continue with those plans. The entire beach seemed quite dead … the sand uninviting. Maybe it was the heat. Maybe it was because we got there at low tide. Anyway, it was getting on towards 5:00p, so we decided to return to Resort World and catch a tender back to Insignia.

    By 6:00p we were back in our cabin, a refreshing shower foremost on our minds.

    Next up … Phuket.
    Læs mere

  • Sunrise En Route to Langkawi, Malaysia

    12. maj 2023, Strait of Malacca ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    A scheduled mid-morning arrival in Langkawi, Malaysia is helping us to adjust to yet another time change overnight. Tonight, we’ll regain the hour we lost last night, but until then …

    The bonus … relaxing on the veranda to enjoy sunrise.Læs mere

  • Sabang, Weh Island … Indonesia

    11. maj 2023, Indonesien ⋅ ⛅ 88 °F

    New-to-us port #42.

    Today’s port of call — another replacement for the canceled 3-day call on Myanmar — brought us to Weh Island … off the northern tip of Sumatra. The earliest descriptions of the island can be traced back to Ptolemy in 301 BC.

    Sabang, where Insignia docked and where we spent the day, is the northernmost and westernmost city of Indonesia. As this was Insignia’s first time calling here, the morning started out with an official welcome on the pier with some of the ship’s officer’s in attendance.

    Our research for this port pointed us to the beach. But not any beach. Due to Sharia Law, we had to find one where western-style bathing attire was allowed. That’s how we ended up at Freddie’s on Sumur Tiga Beach with Sonia & Boris and Younga & David.

    Freddie, who used to own the resort, but now works for the new owners, had arranged transportation for us. Once we turned in the required customs forms and disembarked the ship, we walked the short distance to the parking lot where Hasyim was waiting for us for the short 10-minute ride to the resort.

    I’ll admit that our initial impression of the beach was not great. We had to walk down to it via Freddie’s Skywalk — a wooden bridge of sorts. The beach was narrow … there were no lounge chairs … there were no umbrellas. And there was construction on the lowest level of the property overlooking the beach. We were disappointed enough that we even had Hasyim take us to another resort just down the road, but access to the beach from there was even more problematic … the beach even narrower. So we decided to make the best of things by returning to Freddie’s.

    In the end, we had a great time on the beach. Freddie had some lounge chairs placed in a nook under the trees and three umbrellas were set up to give us additional shade. From our vantage point, we could not see the construction … just the lovely ocean with amazing shades of blue from turquoise to navy. The surf got a bit rough as the morning progressed, but the rope out to the pontoon served as a handhold for those who wanted to take a dip and do a bit of snorkeling … coral and colorful fish were abundant out by the pontoon so Mui was a happy camper.

    Around 11:30a, we collected our belongings and went up to the restaurant for lunch. It would have been nice to dine al fresco on the terrace, but the tables that were in the shade were already occupied. So, we went up to the restaurant instead. Open to the ocean breezes and the view on one side, the setting was lovely.

    Service unfortunately wasn’t the greatest. I’m not sure if that was because the staff is not used to having people order a selection of dishes to share or if they just need more training now that the property is under new management. It took several requests to get some small plates for our “shared food.” And a few more requests for forks and knives. Those who ordered fruit juices were not pleased with their choices. But the local Bintang Beer was good … if on the warm side. The food itself was tasty. The pizza, prawns, and steamed veggies disappeared in no time. Unfortunately the nasi goreng (fried rice) turned out to be way too spicy for our palates.

    All in all, today’s beach experience was a mixed one. But we made the most of it.
    Læs mere

  • At Sea

    10. maj 2023, Andaman Sea ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    After a day of exploring in a feels-like temp of 99F in Port Blair yesterday, having a day at sea today was most welcome. All the more so because we lost an hour last night and will lose a half hour tonight. Add to that, if my calculations are accurate, we’ll be losing another hour tomorrow night.

    So, yes. R&R was the code word for the day as we continued to outrun Cyclone Mocha. In his report leaving port last night, Captain Brajcic warned us that the sea state today might include waves up to 9 feet high. Insignia has indeed been dancing a bit.

    We wrapped up by having drinks with passenger-friends — the Gelmans and the Craddocks— at the Oceania Club Party. Dinner was with staff-friends Chris and Millie. We were delighted to have Chef Colin join us for our evening meal as well.
    Læs mere

  • Exploring Port Blair

    9. maj 2023, Indien ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    Port Blair was not on the original RTW2023 itinerary. It was added on as one of three replacement ports when our call on Myanmar was canceled a while back.

    It was obvious very early this morning that the day was going to be hot … and humid. So, Mui and I headed off Insignia early.

    Since we’d visited Sri Lanka in between our last mainland India port and today’s call on the Andaman Islands, there were formalities to go through before we could proceed with our sightseeing plans. We were the first ones to do so this morning … with the Indian authorities set up on the pier.

    One person reviewed and stamped our landing cards. Another one assigned us numbers — 001 and 002 — and wrote them on our landing cards. Another one instructed us on where to deposit our customs forms. Another one — standing right next to the table where all this was going on — verified the stamped landing cards. And yet another one — at the exit to the terminal — checked the paperwork one last time … at least until we returned to the port later in the day.

    Welcoming us to port today were a group of women … one sprinkling shredded marigolds over us … another sprinkling what smelled like rose water … and yet another one placing bindis on our foreheads. After going through the ritual, we went off to arrange transportation for ourselves. (There was a welcome performance in the terminal at 9:00a … but we were long gone by then.)

    Our hurried research into Port Blair gave us the confidence that we did not need a tour to explore the city and its environs. Using the description of a ship’s tour as guidance, we hired a tuk-tuk to see the sights. Better than a taxi, we figured, since the forward motion of the vehicle would generate a breeze that would help us deal with the humid heat. Hamza spoke very little English, but he knew his way around the city, and perhaps more importantly, knew how to negotiate the bedlam that is traffic in India.

    Hamza first took us out of the hubbub of the city, following the mostly-deserted coastal road to Corbyn’s Cove, passing Japanese bunkers from WWII, a Hindu Temple, and a memorial to the Freedom Fighters at the spot where the first tricolor flag was hoisted in 1943 in Port Blair to mark the independence of the first Indian territory from the British Raj.

    A dip in the ocean would not have gone amiss at Corbyn’s Cove, but the surf was very rough … thanks to Cyclone Mocha brewing offshore. So, we headed back to the city, stopping at Gandhi Park along the way for a quick photo op.

    Every website we looked at when we were researching Port Blair had the same site as the #1 place to visit … the Cellular Jail … aka Kala Pani. Referred to as the Indian Bastille by some, the jail is a national memorial and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The sign at the entrance states that it “stands as a mute witness to the untold sufferings, valiant defiance, and undaunted spirit of the firebrand revolutionaries against the brutalities of the British barbarism.”

    Constructed between 1896-1906, using only labor provided by prisoners, the three-story jail consists of seven “arms” … sort of like a starfish. The 698 cells all face walkways with barred openings. The thick walls, and the fact that no one cell faces another one, isolated the prisoners and kept interaction amongst them to a minimum. Thus the reason why the penitentiary is known as the “Cellular Jail.”

    After paying our admission, we wandered around the prison grounds. Passing the two eternal flame stands, we headed to the junction of two of the “arms” and walked the walkways, peeking into the cells. Unfortunately, we were not able to go up to the open terrace at the very top as a movie was being filmed and that space was off-limits. Reversing direction, we found the workshed where mannequins modeled the different styles of shackles that were used back in the day. After peeking into the gallows, we exited the jail to continue our DIY wanderings.

    Our next stop was at a colorful Hindu temple where we were welcomed and blessed by the priest. A funny encounter here was with a cow that came down the road as we were leaving and turned in through the temple gates like it owned the place. Maybe it did … there was one other cow already at the temple’s courtyard shrine.

    Driving us around the busy town center next, Hamza gave us glimpses into daily life in and around Aberdeen Bazaar. When we spotted the sign for the Zonal Antropological Museum, we decided to go in. We were hoping for some A/C comfort since by this time sweat was pouring out of every pore. No luck on that front, but the museum was an interesting look at the tribal communities of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands. No photos. At least we took none because that is what we were told, and unlike some visitors, we obeyed the signs that were posted everywhere.

    By the time we left the museum, we were pretty much drained. The temp had not risen that much from the 81F we started at. But the feels like temp was 87F and rising along with the humidity.

    We decided to skip the two other museums in the city and return to the ship after picking up some delicious mangos. But first, when we spotted an open salon, we stopped so we could both get haircuts. And as a bonus, I got a mani/pedi. All for the grand price of $23.77!!! A good way to spend some of our excess Indian Rupees.

    We were onboard around 1:00p, grabbed a quick bite at the Terrace Café, cooled off with refreshing showers, and spent the afternoon relaxing. It was too hot to sit on the veranda until Insignia weighed anchor. As we got underway, the rain that had held off started falling in thick sheets, adding a freshness to the air … and a rainbow for our viewing pleasure.
    Læs mere

  • Welcome to Port Blair, India

    9. maj 2023, Indien ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    New-to-us port #41.

    In the Andaman and Nicobar Islands … in the Bay of Bengal.

    Woke up to booming cracks of thunder and heavy sheets of rain as Insignia was on approach to Port Blair. Seems to be clearing a bit now.

    Fingers crossed the rain and wind from Cyclone Mocha holds off as we explore today and doesn’t do any serious damage when it finally hits the islands. We are scheduled to leave at 5:00p to avoid it.
    Læs mere

  • At Sea: Far East Legends Stats

    8. maj 2023, Bay of Bengal ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    Day 2 of two days at sea.

    Today was pretty much a duplicate of yesterday. Except that we socialized with friends at the Oceania Club Party and then Mui and I dined alone at the Polo Grill.

    Captain Brajcic and GM Laurence both took an active part in tonight’s Oceania Club Party. As she always does, OCA Cella gave us some stats for the segment and threw in some “trivia” about “our ages.”

    Here are a few tidbits …

    There are 545 guests from 21 countries on this segment … 477 repeaters; 161 of which are at the elite level (20 plus cruise points) … 1 guest each from Ireland and the Netherlands. 154 new guests joined us in Dubai … 68 of them are first timers on Oceania.

    There are 402 crew members from 40 countries taking care of us … a mini United Nations. Of the entire crew complement, 80% are on the hotel side.

    As for the “age” trivia … the average age is 70; median age is 72. The age that the largest group falls into is 71. There are 3 teenagers; 68 passengers in their 80s; 1 passenger is 90. There are 11 birthday twins.

    By the way, we will be back in India tomorrow … with a small change to our schedule. Instead of departing at 7:00p as originally planned, we’re going to be leaving at 5:00p. Apparently, there is a cyclone bearing down on the area, so Captain Brajcic wants to boogie out of town early.
    Læs mere

  • At Sea

    7. maj 2023, Bay of Bengal ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    Day 1 of two days at sea.

    I must say that two days at sea are just what the doctor ordered. After seven days of heavy-duty sightseeing in hot and humid weather in India and Sri Lanka, we are in desperate need of some downtime.

    Today … R&R and dinner with friends.

    (Yes, I know I have some catching up to do with my writing. But it has to take a back seat to planning for some of our upcoming ports of call.)
    Læs mere

  • Sri Lanka: Touring Colombo

    6. maj 2023, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 88 °F

    Insignia wasn’t due to sail from Colombo until 6:00p. With plenty of time on our hands, once we arrived back in the city, we asked our guide if he could give us a quick tour of the highlight.

    Our first stop was Independence Square … home to the Independence Memorial Hall … a national monument built to commemorate Sri Lanka’s independence from British rule in 1948. It sits at the spot where the formal ceremony marking the start of self-rule was held.

    At the head of the hall — an open-air structure with beautifully carved columns holding up the roof — is a statue of Don Stephen Senanayake, the “Father of the Nation.” Until the parliament was moved to the new complex, the Memorial Hall also served as the ceremonial assembly hall for the Senate and the House of Representatives of Ceylon … as the country was then known.

    Next, we walked across the street to the Old Colombo Dutch Hospital. Dating back to the 1680s, it is considered to be the oldest surviving building from Sri Lanka’s Dutch colonial period. It was built to not only provide medical care to the officers and staff of the Dutch East India Company, but also to serve Dutch seafarers. After serving other functions following independence, in 2011, it was converted into a shopping and dining district. The buildings were closed today — due to Vesak Day — but that didn’t stop us from wandering the grounds before moving onto a Buddhist temple.

    Gangaramaya Temple is one of the most important Buddhist temples in Colombo. Dating back to the late 19th century, it sits on the site of what was a small shrine near the shores of Lake Beira. It is constructed in an eclectic mix of Sri Lankan, Thai, Indian, Chinese, and modern architecture, and consists of several different buildings, including a sanctuary, a relic chamber, residential and alms halls, and more.

    I was fascinated by the roofline of what turned out to be the museum … a series of Buddha statues situated on the stepped-pyramidal structure. Unfortunately, they were difficult to photograph because of the backlighting.

    Wandering around the courtyard, we skipped the long line of devotees waiting to go into the chamber where the Buddha’s hair relic is on display. Instead, we went into the museum, filled with a treasure trove of artifacts ranging from statues of the Buddha and Hindu gods, to Dutch coins, jeweled trinkets, and other antiques.

    As we were departing the temple, we noticed a line of people walking around a sacred Bodhi tree. This is a type of fig tree. Tradition has it that it was such a tree that gave the Buddha shade during his search for enlightenment. The original tree was in India, but a sapling was brought here during the time of Emperor Ashoka the Great. That sapling is believed to be the source of all other saplings that have been planted around the country, including the one that has resulted in the tree at Gangaramaya Temple. I decided to participate in the ceremonial walk around the tree … watering it with the cup of water I was handed when I joined the queue.

    The clock tower — once the Colombo Fort Lighthouse, which dates back to 1857 — and the Galbokka Lighthouse were the last two stops we made on our way to the port. The lighthouse was built in 1952 after the Colombo Fort Lighthouse was deactivated because its light was being blocked by nearby buildings. The new structure sits on a concrete base that adds to its height and ensures that it will serve as a lighthouse without fear of being obscured.

    We were back at our pick-up point at the port shortly after 3:00p. This time we managed to hop on the port shuttle bus to return to Insignia. A cold shower to revive us … a late lunch at the Waves Grill … and R&R until the ship set sail wrapped up our visit to Sri Lanka.

    We now have two days at sea to recuperate after our recent spate of port calls in heat and humidity. Next up … back to India … but not to the mainland.
    Læs mere

  • Sri Lanka: On the Way to Colombo

    6. maj 2023, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    By 8:30a, we were back on the road to Colombo.

    Traffic was non-existent … just as our guide had predicted. So, when he suggested a stop at the Pilimathalawa Tea Factory, we once again agreed. After all, you can’t come to the home of Ceylon tea and not have a taste.

    A lovely young lady first explained about the differences between black, green, white, and gold tea. Then she took us around the factory, explaining how they process, package, and ship their teas around the world. Finally, we went up to the tasting room. Here she showed us the color of the different teas when brewed, and then invited us to take a seat at one of the tables to do a tasting.

    This stop made a dent in our wallet. After the tasting, we went up to the counter to pick up a couple of bags of the rare blend of tea made with the golden tips of the tea leaves … available only in Sri Lanka. You can bet that we will be drinking this tea sparingly … and will savor each sip when we do drink it.

    Leaving the tea factory, we made a few stops for photo ops as we continued on to Colombo.

    Kadugannawa is the pass between the Kegalle Valley and the Kandy Valley. Traditionally, this pass was the main access to Kandy for invaders approaching from Colombo. Though the Sinhalese managed to stop most, they were unsuccessful with the British … the first foreign power to occupy Kandy permanently.

    In order to secure access, the Brits constructed a road from Colombo to Kandy. Instead of blasting it to go around the mountain at the pass, they tunneled through the rock. This rock — known as the Kurunegala Tunnel — is off the present day road, but it is what our guide wanted to show us. A small detour was, therefore, in order. He explained that the tunnel is a symbol, created to fulfill an old Sinhalese prophecy that there is no way for foreigners to rule Kandy, unless they pierce the mountains. Thus, the British went out of their way to include a tunnel on the road.

    (While this may well be the story people tell, it is disputed by those who say it was constructed in 1823.)

    The next stop was at the Table Mountain Overlook. Though distant, the mountain was clearly visible and it was easy to see why it was so named. But what was of greater interest to us here were the monkeys. Specifically, the toque macaques … which are one of the three species of monkeys found in Sri Lanka … and one of the two that is endemic to the country.

    There were a number of macaques sitting on the fence. However, all but the one male quickly scampered away. We stepped out of the van just long enough for a selfie. Then back inside the safety of the van as the male seemed a bit stressed out by some of the people who were getting just a bit too close for comfort.

    After this stop, we continued on to Colombo without stopping. By noon, we were back in the city.
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  • Sri Lanka: Kandy … Quick Look-See

    6. maj 2023, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    We were up just before 6:00a … for an early departure from Kandy. Not because we wanted to do so, mind you. But the reason is a moot point now, so no sense in dwelling on it. Except to say that we will be more choosy about who joins us on tours in the future.

    The view from our balcony was misty. Likely because the sun was steaming up the humidity in the air. The temp was already inching towards 86F. Little did we know then that the mid-day temperature in Colombo would be a feels-like 99F … ugh!

    What the darkness had hidden from our eyes last night was now visible … a hill clad in lush green vegetation … buildings nestled amidst them. Looking to the left we got a real surprise … a glimpse of Kandy Lake and the palace complex … including the golden canopy; the Temple of the Tooth Relic; the Queen’s Bathing Pavilion, and more.

    We didn’t have much time to dally and enjoy the scenery, however. Moving up our departure from the hotel to 8:00a meant breakfast at 7:00a. Dutifully, we got ready for the day ahead, went down to the lobby to grab a bite to eat, and checked out of the Radisson.

    When we met up with our guide, he suggested a quick look-see around Kandy … reiterating once again that we had plenty of time to get back to Colombo. With traffic flowing to Kandy, there would be little traffic to contend with on the way back to the port. So, off we went to see what we could see.

    Our first stop was on the shoreline of Lake Kandy. Across the lake was the scene we had glimpsed from our balcony at the Radisson … the palace complex. What we thought was a platform when we saw it all lit up against the dark sky last night turned out to be Diatilaka Mandapa Island. At one time, it was home to a mandapa … a pillared hall or pavilion for public rituals. Built in the 14th century, today it only has trees and grass and part of the building standing. Would have been interesting to see it … but alas!

    Next, we drove up to Arthur’s Seat … more commonly known as the Kandy Viewpoint. At the overlook, expansive views of the city, Lake Kandy, and the palace complex greeted our eyes. As well, on another hill, we spotted the stupa and Buddha statue of Bahirawakanda Vihara … a Buddhist monastery. At a height of over 82 feet, the statue of the seated Buddha is apparently the tallest in Sri Lanka.

    The monastery is named for the hill it sits on. In doing more research, I came across the following snippet on the “Love Sri Lanka” website that I thought was interesting …

    “Bahirawakanda means “Gnome Mountain”, and this name hark[en]s back to the legend surrounding the temple hill. The villagers who lived in the surrounding areas once believed that the hill was the home of an evil gnome that devoured unsuspecting humans. In an effort to appease it, the villagers would sacrifice a virgin girl (or several virgins, depending on the version of the story) to the hill.

    The good news? Over time, fear of the hill and the superstition have faded … no more virgin sacrifices.
    Læs mere

  • Sri Lanka: Kandy … Tooth Relic Temple

    5. maj 2023, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    Leaving the Millennium Elephant Foundation around 5:30p, we continued on to Kandy.

    The traffic was stop and go most of the way. The single lane roads were now carrying at least two rows of cars … sometimes three … drivers vying for any opening they could find to make headway.

    We rolled into Kandy after dark. It was already 7:45p. The Temple of the Tooth Relic — aka Sri Dalada Maligawa — was due to close at 8:00p.

    Instead of taking us to the hotel, our guide found a parking spot — a miracle, really — near the temple and rushed us over there to see what we could see. The streets were packed with people of all ages … locals, visitors like us, Buddhist monastics, pilgrims. Restaurants and food stalls were doing brisk business; musicians, vocalists, and choirs were providing entertainment. Cacophony in ever direction.

    This temple — a UNESCO WHS — is on the grounds of the Royal Palace Complex of what used to be the Kingdom of Kandy. Tradition has it that after Gautama Buddha reached mahaparinirvana — freedom after death — in India in 543 BC, the left canine tooth was smuggled from the funeral pyre to Sri Lanka. As the relic symbolizes the right to rule, reigning monarchs who held the tooth built temples to house it. Eventually, in the late 16th century, the relic came to Kandy.

    The original temple (circa 1600) was destroyed by the Portuguese when they invaded Sri Lanka. The second temple (mid-17th century) was burned down by the Dutch. The third one fell into ruin and was destroyed. The temple we visited today dates back to the 18th century. The structure is in the architectural style unique to Kandy. It came under attack twice — most recently by the Tamil Tigers in 1998. However, it was fully restored each time.

    We entered the complex through a white arch … beyond which was a bell-shaped stupa and a statue of the Buddha in a glass box. Every building was decorated with lights, flags, lanterns, and garlands … a festive atmosphere prevailed. The Paththirippuwa (Octagonal Pavilion; built in 1803) was especially festive with twinkling white lights adorning the façade. The water in the moat doubled our pleasure with reflections. Everywhere we looked, there were long lines of people … an even longer one at the main entrance to the temple.

    Considering it was past the closing time of 8:00p, we had no expectation of being able to go inside the temple. We were wrong. Our guide managed to talk the guards at a side entrance to let us in, thus avoiding the queue at the main entrance. Turns out that the closing time had been extended a tiny bit. We would be allowed to enter the queue to see the tooth relic. But we had to hurry. So, hurry we did. What a shame that we had to hotfoot it … there was so much detail to study.

    Our timing, unfortunately, was not good enough to see the relic. We were allowed to enter the line. In fact, the line was closed down behind us. But we missed — by mere seconds — being able to look through the window to see the stupa-shaped casket in which the tooth lies. The panel covering the opening was slid shut just before we got to it.

    Later, I read that the tooth lies on a gold lotus flower within a series of gold and jeweled caskets. The relic itself is rarely on public display, so we would have seen only the outer-most casket … of which I found a poster photo at the temple. At least we know what we missed.

    We took our time leaving the temple, stopping to take photos as we made our way. Our guide insisted on having us pose in front of the entrance to the inner sanctum … our hands folded in the namaste greeting. He gave specific instructions on how and where to stand, so I’m pretty sure this is a photo op he has perfected for all of his clients.

    Leaving the temple, we made our way over to Kandy Lake … visible through a fence. In the pitch dark, all we could see were the colorful lights on what looked like a platform in the middle of the lake. Then, back to the street where our van was parked.

    It was after 9:00p when we arrived at the Radisson. We were checked in and our way to the room by 9:05p. Starved, but too tired to think of eating anything but our protein bars, we relaxed in the room, stepping out on the balcony to enjoy the night time views of the hill across the way from us.

    A rushed visit, but at least we made it to Kandy.
    Læs mere

  • Sri Lanka: Ellies

    5. maj 2023, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    We were off the ship as soon as the Colombo Port Authorities cleared Insignia. By 2:30p, a promotional photo of our group taken, we were on our way out of the city.

    Under normal circumstances, the drive to Kandy — the last capital of the Sinhalese monarchy from 1469 to 1818 — is about three hours … at most four. Today wasn’t a normal day, however. It was “Vesak Day” … the day of the first full moon in May … considered the most sacred day to millions of Buddhists around the world. Why? Tradition has it that it was on this day “… in the year 623 B.C., that the Buddha was born. … also on this day, the Buddha attained enlightenment, and it was on the Day of Vesak that the Buddha in his eightieth year passed away.”

    What did that mean for us? There would be special celebrations at the temple we were off to visit in Kandy. That was the good news. There would also be far more traffic to contend with to get there. That was the bad news.

    Though traffic flowed well at first, the closer we got to Kandy, the worse it became … to the point where we were at a standstill quite a bit. In the end, the drive — accomplished with a light sprinkling of rain most of the way to Kandy — took close to six hours.

    We passed through village after village on our way to Kandy. Our guide explained that they all specialize in different products … pineapple, cashews, cane furniture, pottery, carpentry, etc. In each village, we saw long — and I mean really long — queues at the food stalls that lined the road. Turns out that on special festival days such as today, vendors set up stalls to give out free cakes, sweets, rice, ice cream, drinks, and more.

    Our tour included a visit with elephants … at the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage … established by the Sri Lankan Department of Wildlife Conservation for feeding and providing care and sanctuary to orphaned baby elephants found in the wild.

    Unfortunately, by the time we arrived at the turn-off for the sanctuary, we were way behind schedule. We were told that we would never make it to Pinnawala before it closed at 5:00p. Instead, our guide suggested that we go to a closer facility … The Millennium Elephant Foundation [MEF].

    The website describes MEF, which was founded in 1979, as an “… organization and charity set up to rescue and care for captive Asian elephants in Sri Lanka. It is situated on a 15-acre estate by the name of Samaragiri …”.

    Since its inception, the organization has cared for over 80 elephants. Today, they have 9 animals — ranging in age from 15 to 53 years old. These elephants are cared for by 13 mahouts. They each have a “bed” where they feed and sleep at night. Throughout the day, they are bathed in the river … which is not only play time, but necessary to keep their skins moist. In the afternoon, they partake in enrichment activities and socialize with other elephants in the “free roaming” area.

    Our timing got us into MEF, but there wasn’t enough time to do the Elephant Walk, which would have given us a chance to feed the elephants assigned to us and also bathe them in the river. Instead, we paid the basic admission, quickly walked through the museum, and went to the visitor-ellie interaction area.

    Here we found an elephant and her mahout waiting for us — Pooja, I believe … identified by her crinkly tail … the first elephant born in captivity in Sri Lanka (now 37 years old). Then we followed the pair down to the river. From an overlook, we watched Pooja go down the steps to enter the river for her bath. She certainly seemed to be enjoying her time in the water.

    Next, we went into the forest to meet Tusker … so named for … well, you guessed it … his long tusks. He was at his bed, chomping on the fresh vegetation left for him to feed on. Slowly, the other elephants showed up, each going to his own bed.

    A fun encounter with one of our favorite animals … but way too short.
    Læs mere

  • Colombo, Sri Lanka

    5. maj 2023, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    New-to-us port #40 … with an overnight.

    After a morning at sea, we arrived in Colombo, Sri Lanka.

    I don’t know that we will see much of Colombo as we are on an overnight trip that Sonia & Boris arranged.

    That story will unfold later today. In the meantime, here are some images from our arrival in port.
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  • Kochi: Food, Ellies, Trucks

    4. maj 2023, Indien ⋅ ☁️ 90 °F

    Having done quite a bit of walking in the humid heat, we were all ready for a break when we left the Paradesi Synagogue. It was past noon, so lunch was on our minds as well. Gopah gave us a choice — outside restaurant by the river or indoor restaurant with A/C overlooking the river … but with no direct views of the water. There was no hesitation on anyone’s part … cool air conditioning made the decision for us.

    Piling into the van, we soon found ourselves at the Armoury at the Brunton Boatyard Hotel. Walking down a hall lined with elephants — an exhibit celebrating Kerala’s state animal and India’ s national heritage animal … and bringing attention to the plight of these majestic animals, which are running out of space due to extensive habitat fragmentation — we made our way to the restaurant.

    The Armoury gets its name from the antique weapons decorating the walls. Delicious food, cold drinks, and A/C … what more could we ask for. Oh, and at that hour, we were the only ones in the restaurant … peace and quiet after the hubbub of Old Town Kochi. Perfect.

    It was after 2:00p when we finally gave up the A/C in the restaurant for the A/C in the van. Our tour was now complete. Time to head back to Insignia. On the way, Gopah had the driver pull into a dirt lot so that he could show us some of the colorful trucks that are an iconic sight on Indian roads

    By 3:00p, we were back at the port. Time to get “stamped out” of India as instructed in the letter delivered to the cabin last night. Not sure what this means for the formalities when we arrive in Port Blair on India’s Andaman Islands next week. Hopefully, no red tape entry formalities 🤞🏻. I guess we’ll find out when we get there.

    After running the gauntlet of red tape to enter the port, and bidding Gopah and our driver goodbye, we entered the cruise terminal. Luckily, there were no long lines … some of the ship’s tours had returned long ago … others had yet to return. Good timing.

    Passports, electronic landing cards, and our ship’s cards in hand, we went up to one of the officials. He stamped our passports, kept our ELCs, and bid us to go to the gangway. We would no longer be able to go back into the city. Not that we planned to do so. Cool showers and R&R in the cabin were foremost on our minds … until it was time to sit out on the veranda to watch our sailaway from mainland India.
    Læs mere

  • Kochi: Mattancherry … Significant Sites

    4. maj 2023, Indien ⋅ ☁️ 91 °F

    Mattancherry is a historic ward outside the city center. It is home to several culturally and historically significant buildings … two of which we visited.

    First up … the Mattancherry Palace Museum. The building in which the museum is housed dates back to 1555. It is said to be one of the oldest Portuguese era buildings in the oriental style. It was constructed and presented as a gift to the Kingdom of Kochi in apology for plundering a temple that once stood in the area. It is sometimes referred to as the Dutch Palace, because of the restoration work they oversaw in 1665.

    The exhibits — consisting of items such as portraits of the Kochi Rajas, palanquins, clothing, weapons, etc — are displayed on the second floor … in what used to be the coronation hall, bed chambers, ladies chamber, royal dining hall, and more. The most important exhibit is of five murals depicting scenes from the Ramayana … described by various sources as artistic marvels. I would agree. Sadly, photos were not allowed … but I did find one on Wikimedia that I added to my collection of photos from today.

    For anyone interested, this link has more of the palace murals: https://www.gettyimages.com/photos/mattancherry….

    Gopah next took us for a stroll along Jew Street … in Jew Town. This area of Kochi was settled by some of the ancestors of Sephardic Jews who were expelled from Iberia in 1492 and eventually made their way to Kochi in the 16th century. They became known as the Paradesi Jews … which translates as “foreign jews.” After Israel was established as a nation, most of the Jewish population emigrated there. Pat mentioned that when they visited this neighborhood in 2019 only six Jewish people remained here. Today we found out that there only two left.

    The second significant building we visited was in Jew Town … the Paradesi Synagogue, which dates back to 1568. Adjacent to Mattancherry Museum, it sits on land given to the community by the Raja of Kochi to replace the earlier synagogue that was destroyed by the Portuguese. Considered a historic attraction, admission is by fee … as it was at the Palace Museum. But here, in return for our admission, we were given our choice of a postcard.

    After our visit to the synagogue, Gopah gave us a choice. But that’s for the next footprint.
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  • Kochi: On the Way to Mattancherry

    4. maj 2023, Indien ⋅ ☁️ 88 °F

    After St Francis Church, we headed towards Mattancherry … with a few stops in between …starting with Fort Kochi Beach for a closer look at the Chinese fishing nets.

    Operated by hand, counterweights are used to raise and lower the nets into the water. These nets have become quite the tourist attraction. In fact, some of the fishermen get mad if they aren’t paid for photos. We watched from a distance, and then continued our stroll to check out the stalls where vendors were selling fresh catch.

    Continuing into the city, we walked along some of the main and side streets, checking out the architecture. I enjoyed the colorful murals as well. Eventually, we arrived at the Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica — aka Kotta Palli.

    Originally built by the Portuguese in 1505, the church was elevated to a cathedral in 1558. The Dutch spared the building from destruction when they arrived in the 1600s. The British weren’t so kind, however. They demolished the building in 1795. A new church was then commissioned by the bishop of Cochin in 1887. It was this church — consecrated in 1905 and elevated to a basilica in 1984 — that we visited today.

    Compared to St Francis Church, the interior of the basilica is more elaborately decorated. There are frescoes and murals, paintings, tiled arches, and stained glass windows. A wooden ceiling, with paintings of the stations the cross, lead the eye to a painting of the Last Supper.

    Our tour next took us to the Dhobi Khana … an open-air laundry. A sign explained that the Dutch brought the ancestors of the current Vannan community — who have been working at this “laundromat” since 1720 — from places like Tamil Nadu and Malabar.

    The original dhobi was established for the purpose of washing the uniforms of the Dutch soldiers. The dhobi that stands today was constructed in 1976 … in return for the community donating 10 acres of the original 13 acres for the building of a public playground. Instead of Dutch uniforms, now the clothing and linens of the neighborhood are laundered here.

    While we have stopped by to view other dhobis, this time we were invited to step in for a closer look-see. The set up of this one was different than the others … a series of individual washing stalls and a long ironing shed. Linens already washed were fluttering in the wind in the nearby drying area … hung once again using twisted ropes in lieu of clothespins.
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  • Kochi: St Francis Church

    4. maj 2023, Indien ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    After completing the usual “leaving the port red tape formalities,” we departed the terminal to find our guide Gopah waiting for us … with an air conditioned van that we knew would be a cool haven for us in between our scheduled stops.

    Our first stop was the St Francis Church … billed as the first European church in India. It is presumed that it was built by the Franciscan friars who accompanied the Portuguese expedition in 1500. When the Dutch came here in 1663, they converted it into a Protestant church. It remained as such until they, in turn, surrendered it to the British in 1804 and the church began serving the Anglican community. Today it is part of the Church of South India.

    One of the church’s claims to fame is that Vasco de Gama was buried here. Until, that is, his body was moved to Portugal. Because he died in Kochi, however, his grave here is still preserved. A bright blue sign with an arrow made it easy to find the grave inside the church.

    I found the whitewashed façade reminiscent of the old mission churches we’ve seen in the American southwest. The interior was simple … no heavy gold ornamentation here. The white panels hanging from the ceiling, Gopah told us, were an ingenious fan system to circulate the air over the congregation. Though operated by electricity now, back in the day people stood outside the church, pulling on ropes to move the fans by hand.

    After our visit to the church, we wandered around the affluent neighborhood for a bit. The residences and grounds were well maintained; lots of colorful trees, including some cannonball trees with the flowers in bloom.
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