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Ahmet Erkun
Ahmet Erkun

Ahmet Erkun

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Heading off to explore the vineyards of Lavaux — Saint-Saphorin, Switzerland.
    The UNESCO-listed terraced vineyards of Lavaux — Saint-Saphorin, Switzerland.The UNESCO-listed terraced vineyards of Lavaux — Saint-Saphorin, Switzerland.Swiss rail trains cut through between the terraces of Lavaux — Saint-Saphorin, Switzerland.The UNESCO-listed terraced vineyards of Lavaux — Saint-Saphorin, Switzerland.3The UNESCO-listed terraced vineyards of Lavaux — Saint-Saphorin, Switzerland.Vehicles negotiate these narrow roads amongst the terraced vineyards of Lavaux.Mui in the middle of a road we drove yesterday amid the terraces of Lavaux — Saint-Saphorin.

    Saint-Saphorin: Lavaux Vineyards

    9. August in der Schweiz ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Vaud is a district of Switzerland … and is home to six Vaudois wine regions. The 18-mile long terraced vineyards of Lavaux make up one of these regions … considered by many to be the most spectacular. From where I sat on the balcony most of the day — until the sun started encroaching on my space on the balcony around 2:00p — I would agree with the spectacular nature of this place.

    History records that there were vines grown in Lavaux as early as the Roman times. The current terraces, however, date back to the 11th century … to a time when the Benedictine and Cistercian monasteries controlled the area.

    By all accounts, Switzerland’s Grand Crus wines are produced in the UNESCO-listed Lavaux vineyards, which cover about 830 terraced-hectares on the south-facing northern shore of Lake Geneva. The reason for this is the solar, thermal, and radiation warmth the grapes receive … from three sources: the sun; the rays reflected from the surface of Lake Geneva; and the heat stored in the stone walls of the terraces.

    There are many ways one can explore the Lavaux vineyards … take a mini-train or bike tour; or a walking tour. Several of which include wine tasting. We opted to simply walk out of our AirBNB and follow one of the many paths that meander through the area at our own pace. We had our own tasting back at the apartment … thanks to a bottle of local wine gifted by our hosts.    Weiterlesen

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Our apartment for the next three nights is somewhere amongst these vineyards — Saint-Saphorin.
    The Nest is in this former-vigneron's home — Saint-Saphorin, Switzerland.The Nest Lavaux — Saint-Saphorin, Switzerland.Lake Geneva and the Alps dominate the scenery from the balcony — Saint-Saphorin, Switzerland.Lavender hues at sunset — Saint-Saphorin, Switzerland.Light from the moon glittering on Lake Geneva — Saint-Saphorin, Switzerland.

    OtR: Saint-Saphorin

    8. August in der Schweiz ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    For our last few days’ stay in Switzerland, we wanted someplace quiet … off-the-beaten path … but convenient to nearby attractions for sightseeing.

    We found what we were looking for at The Nest Lavaux … billed as “Your sanctuary nestled within the terraced vineyards of the Swiss Riviera …” between Montreaux and Lausanne.

    Getting to the property, a stand-alone apartment in a renovated house that was once the home of a vigneron, was quite the adventure since we followed the instructions from the GPS unit. Instead of taking us to the village via the highway and then dropping us down to The Nest, the GPS routed us via the barely-one-vehicle-wide roads that zigzag through terraced vineyards.

    We were so focused on the drive that neither of us thought to video the experience until we were relaxing with a glass of wine later. No, we are not going to repeat the drive just to show you what it was like! Suffice to say that there were some white-knuckles clutching the edge of the passenger seat.

    Was what we found at the end of the drive worth the drive?

    Absolutely. We are in the heart of the peaceful Lavaux Vineyards … a UNESCO World Heritage Site that dates back to the 11th century … with expansive, stunning views of Lake Geneva and the Alps. We are so enchanted that we’re rethinking just how much sightseeing we might be doing during our three-night stay here.    Weiterlesen

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Lake Geneva shoreline promenade and beach — Vevey, Switzerland.
    Château de l'Aile ... built in 1840-1846, replacing a 17th century castle — Vevey, Switzerland."Ganymède" by K. Etienne ... represents the largest moon in the Solar System — Vevey, Switzerland.2Frescoes on the exterior of a building — Vevey, Switzerland.Bust of Mihai Eminescu, a Romanian poet, on a pedestal of books — Vevey, Switzerland.Memorial to Nikolai Gogol, the Ukrainian-born poet — Vevey, Switzerland."Charlot" by J. Doubleday ... honors Charlie Chaplin; lived last 25 years of his life in Vevey."The Fork" ... installed by the Alimentarium in Lake Geneva by special permission — Vevey.

    OtR: Vevey

    8. August in der Schweiz ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Leaving Moléson-sur-Gruyères, we programmed the GPS to take us in the direction of Lake Geneva.

    As it was still too early to check-in to the apartment we’d booked through Booking.com, en route we decided to make an unplanned detour to Vevey … for a wander and a bite to eat.

    Making our way through heavy traffic, we found parking in a huge lot in the city center … just a short walk from the lakeshore. Despite the sun beating down mercilessly, we strolled along the shoreline promenade of the town, which is the world headquarters of Nestlé … founded here in 1867. In fact, milk chocolate was invented in Vevey in 1875.

    Our stroll took us past several statues, the oddest of which was a dinner fork plunged just offshore into the waters of Lake Geneva. It is apparently an art installation associated with the Alimentarium, a museum that is home to a permanent exhibition about food and the history of Nestlé.

    Just past the Fork, we came to a restaurant appropriately named Ze Fork. The place was hopping, but a short wait netted us a table in the garden. The restaurant is billed as offering “… creative and seasonal cuisine in a friendly atmosphere.” Right on both counts … our salads, using the freshest ingredients, were both appetizing and colorfully appealing to the eye.

    Just as we were finishing lunch, we received a text from our hosts that the apartment was ready for us. Excellent. With the message came the suggestion to take the ‘upper’ route to the property … which Mui later regretted not taking. But that’s a story for the next footprint.    Weiterlesen

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Time to learn about cheesemaking — Moléson-sur-Gruyères, Switzerland.
    The source of the milk for making cheese — Moléson-sur-Gruyères, Switzerland.Overview of traditional cheesemaking — Moléson-sur-Gruyères, Switzerland.

    OtR: Moléson-sur-Gruyères

    8. August in der Schweiz ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Today was moving day.

    After breakfast at the Hotel de Ville, we adjusted our departure time on the parking app, hauled our bags to the car park, collected the car, and headed off.

    We had a stop to make before leaving the area … a cheesemaking demonstration in Moléson-sur-Gruyères, a village at the foot of the Moléson, the iconic mountain of the Fribourg Alps.

    Even though we knew that the master cheesemaker would be explaining the process in French, we opted for this demonstration as it was billed as a glimpse into the more traditional method of cheesemaking. Arriving at the Fromagerie d’Alpage, we were given a handout explaining in English what we would be seeing, so all was good.

    Here’s a quick overview for those interested …

    * Traditional alpine cheese making starts with delivery of the milk at 7:30a, and is crafted in a cauldron over a wood fire.

    * The type of cheese to be made determines which lactic ferments or starter cultures are to be added to the milk.

    * The milk is heated to 32°C (89.6 °F) and then removed from the fire to add the rennet.

    * After 30-45 minutes, the milk is checked to see if the curd has formed.

    * Using a strainer and a cheese harp, the cheesemaker separates the curd from the whey.

    * If making Gruyère, the cauldron is then returned to the wood fire and the contents are stirred continuously and heated to 57°C (134.6 °F).

    * Two people work together to remove the cheese from the cauldron by sinking a hemp cheesecloth to the bottom.

    * The contents of the cheesecloth are transferred into cheese molds and the cheese is marked with the date of production and the name of the fromagerie.

    * The molds are pressed and turned over multiple times throughout the day.

    * The cheese wheels are placed in a salt bath … 8-24 hours, depending on type of cheese.

    * The cheeses are placed on shelves in the cellar, where the cheesemaker brushes them 2-3 times per week until the desired coloring is achieved.

    * The cheese is then left to mature … 7-8 weeks for Petit Moléson; 9 weeks to 6 months for Vacherin; 5-6 months to 2 years for Latin du Moléson (or Gruyére).

    We wrapped up the experience with a cheese tasting!

    It might have been fun to see the final stage of the cheesemaking process — the ripening. Unfortunately, that session wasn’t until 3:45p and we had places to be. Next time!    Weiterlesen

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    At 8:00a ... Rue de Bourg is quiet ... not a soul is around — Gruyères, Switzerland.
    One of several houses on Rue de Bourg — Gruyères, Switzerland.Detail from one of the houses on Rue de Bourg — Gruyères, Switzerland.1Interesting water spout — Gruyères, Switzerland.Charming streetscape on a quiet morning — Gruyères, Switzerland.Church of Saint-Théodule ... originally Catholic; reformed in the 15th century — Gruyères.Looking up at the Château de Gruyères across the vineyard near the church — Gruyères, Switzerland.Cemetery at the Church of Saint-Théodule — Gruyères, Switzerland.Church of Saint-Théodule — Gruyères, Switzerland.Church of Saint-Théodule — Gruyères, Switzerland.Church of Saint-Théodule — Gruyères, Switzerland.Herd of red deer from the ramparts ... poor things are being pestered by the flies — Gruyères.Young red deer — Gruyères, Switzerland.Gruyères, Switzerland.Sculptures from around town — Gruyères, Switzerland.Alpenhorn group preparing to entertain visitors — Gruyères, Switzerland.2Alpenhorn concert on Rue de Bourg — Gruyères, Switzerland.Dinner @ Saint Georges — Gruyères, Switzerland.Chocolate fondue to wrap up dinner @ Saint Georges — Gruyères, Switzerland."Cow art" @ Saint Georges — Gruyères, Switzerland.Gruyères, Switzerland.Red deer on our way back to our hotel — Gruyères, Switzerland.Another surprise ... a herd of horses — Gruyères, Switzerland.The horses place their muzzles in the bowls to activate the water fountain — Gruyères, Switzerland.Gruyères, Switzerland.

    Gruyėres: Meandering

    7. August in der Schweiz ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    After our visit to the château, we stopped at a gelateria for a sweet treat, and then went for a meander around town.

    We wanted an easy day … and that’s exactly what was in store for us. With a few surprises — such as coming across the herd of red deer we spotted from a distance yesterday … not once but twice; being serenaded by a group of Alpenhorn musicians; witnessing a ‘mini-stampede’ of sheep coming down the hill to join the ones near the entrance to the town; and encountering a herd of horses who had learned to operate a water fountain by sticking their muzzles into bowls attached to a pipe.

    Dinner was at Saint Georges … cheese fondue; raclette … and chocolate fondue for dessert.

    Tomorrow we head out … with a stop or two for sightseeing before we check-in to our next lodgings for one last multi-night stay before we wrap up our road trip.    Weiterlesen

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Bienvenue au Château de Gruyères — Gruyères, Switzerland.
    Frescoes on an exterior wall of the Gruyères Castle — Gruyères, Switzerland.Kitchen @ Château de Gruyères — Gruyères, Switzerland.Burgundian cape ... part of the booty from the Battle of Morat (1476) — Château de Gruyères.The Bailiffs' Room @ Château de Gruyères — Gruyères, Switzerland.Stained glass panels from 1688 & 1699 @ Château de Gruyères — Gruyères, Switzerland.The Corot Room ... by a painter friend of Daniel Bovy who lived at the castle b/w 1852-1857.Detail from the Corot Room @ Château de Gruyères — Gruyères, Switzerland.The Counts' Room ... with 16th century tapestries @ Château de Gruyères — Gruyères, Switzerland.One of the 16th century tapestries in the Counts' Room @ Château de Gruyères.Tapestry depicting the Triumph of Mordecai ... in the Counts' Room @ Château de Gruyères.The Grand Tour Room ... from the exhibit showing Switzerland becoming a destination of choice.From the balcony ... the castle garden protected by ramparts since the 15th century — Gruyères.The Music Room and the piano from 1835 @ Château de Gruyères — Gruyères, Switzerland.Nature-inspired paintings by Francis Furet and Jules Crosnier @ Château de Gruyères.View of the town & Moleson ... from Château de Gruyères — Gruyères, Switzerland.Hunting Room ... preserves the memory of hunting lodges owned by the counts of Gruyères.Medallion Room ... with 17th century Flemish foliage tapestries @ Château de Gruyères.The Knights' Room ... dedicated to the memory of the counts of Gruyéres @ Château de Gruyères.Knights' Room paintings; upper left shows an original fresco that was covered by the paintings.One of the galleries @ Château de Gruyères — Gruyères, Switzerland.The Gardens and the village from one of the galleries @ Château de Gruyères — Gruyères, Switzerland.The formal garden @ Château de Gruyères — Gruyères, Switzerland.The Château de Gruyères from the garden — Gruyères, Switzerland.Stained glass window at the chapel ... Château de Gruyères — Gruyères, Switzerland.

    Gruyères: Le Château

    7. August in der Schweiz ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    Up bright and early after a good night’s rest, we had a delicious and filling breakfast at the hotel. And then it was time to head to the Château de Gruyères. Our plan was to arrive before the tours and day trippers arrived. We succeeded! It was great to have the place all to ourselves for about an hour!

    The first mention of the castle goes back to 1244. At the time, it was the home of the counts of Gruyères, one of the leading noble Swiss families of the Middle Ages. It was built for defensive purposes, using a military design developed by the House of Savoy. When it was reconstructed during the 15th century, the castle became more of a residence.

    After the counts were bankrupted, their lands were divided between the Bern and Fribourg families, with the latter taking possession of the area that is now Gruyères. The bailiffs of Fribourg were installed in the castle to administer the region during the period between 1555 and 1798. It was during their administration that cheese production grew in importance and cheese exports to foreign markets increased.

    In the mid 19th century, the castle was auctioned off … the winning bid was submitted by the Bovy Brothers. The current look of the interior of the castle dates back to this time when Daniel Bovy invited his artist friends from France and Geneva to participate in redesigning the décor of many of the rooms.

    With colorful tapestries, frescoes and murals, and period furnishings, Château de Gruyères made for an interesting place to while away the morning, the formal gardens providing a quiet place to relax before we continued our visit to Gruyères with another stroll around town afterwards.    Weiterlesen

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Welcome to Gruyères, Switzerland.
    Our hotel is to the left; the castle is at the far end — Gruyères, Switzerland.Gruyères Castle depicted in glass — Gruyères, Switzerland.Our room at Hotel de Ville — Gruyères, Switzerland.Looking out the window of our room — Gruyères, Switzerland.View from our room — Gruyères, Switzerland.Sculpture by HR Giger ... known for his design of the Xenomorph in the Alien movies — Gruyères.Panel inset into the pavement near the HR Giger Museum — Gruyères, Switzerland."Birthmachine" (L) and sculptures by HR Giger — Gruyères, Switzerland.A stupa at the Tibet Museum — Gruyères, Switzerland.Can't resist a selfie with Château de Gruyères as a backdrop — Gruyères, Switzerland.If we have time, we can walk down this path to visit the village tomorrow — Gruyères, Switzerland.Belluard Gate was the main entrance into Gruyères during the Middle Ages — Gruyères, Switzerland.Ramparts of the old city walls and a watchtower near Belluard Gate — Gruyères, Switzerland.Fountain on Rue de Bourg — Gruyères, Switzerland.Panoramic view ... including the château, church, and Dent du Broc & Dent du Chamois — Gruyères.We stop for a drink at a café ... can you see the deer? — Gruyères, Switzerland.A herd of Red Deer in the pasture below the town — Gruyères, Switzerland.Feeding time for this little lamb ... at the entrance to town — Gruyères, Switzerland."Music Soothes the Soul" ... in front of the Tourist Info Center — Gruyères, Switzerland.The Calvary, once a guardroom and later a salt depot, today an art gallery — Gruyères, Switzerland.A cute piece of art — Gruyères, Switzerland.Dinner time @ Hotel de Ville — Gruyères, Switzerland.We head down toward the church for an after dinner stroll — Gruyères, Switzerland.Idyllic scene — Gruyères, Switzerland."The Goatherd" ... by Sara H — Gruyères, Switzerland.

    OtR: Gruyères

    6. August in der Schweiz ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    La Gruyère … is the district; Gruyères is the town; Gruyère is the cheese.
    So I learned today.

    Gruyères is a car-free medieval town that sits atop a 270-foot high hill north of the Alps. From the 12th century onward, it was the seat of the Counts of Gruyère.

    If you have a car, there is a public paid lot just outside the town where you can park and walk to your lodgings with bags in tow … if you are lucky. The alternative is to park at a lot further down the hill and hike up to the town … again, with your bag in tow.

    Our advance planning — timing our arrival to around the time when day-trippers start leaving — paid off. We snagged a spot in the top lot. Using the parking app, we set our departure time for 45 hours hence and headed to the Hotel de Ville … approximately mid-way up Rue de Bourg, the main street.

    Soon enough we were settled into our room. The room itself is nothing special, but it has all the amenities we need for a two-night stay and boasts views of the main drag.

    The iconic landmark of Gruyères is the castle by the same name … visible pretty much from everywhere around town. We’ll be visiting it first thing in the morning, before the tours descend on Gruyères. Our afternoon stroll, therefore, was an aimless meander to get our bearings and enjoy the quiet that descended on the town as soon as the last of the day-trippers left.    Weiterlesen

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Scenery from the drive to Gruyères via the Jaunpass — Switzerland.
    Scenery from the drive to Gruyères via the Jaunpass — Switzerland.Scenery from the drive to Gruyères via the Jaunpass — Switzerland.Saint Pierre Chapel in Val-de-Charmey, Switzerland.Cute fountain in Broc, Switzerland.Established in Broc in 1898, Cailler has been owned by Nestlé since 1929 — Broc, Switzerland.Who invented milk chocolate? — Cailler Factory in Broc, Switzerland.2One of Mui's photos from the Cailler tasting room in 2015.

    OtR: Spiez to Gruyères

    6. August in der Schweiz ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Leaving Spiez behind, we decided to drive to Gruyères via Jaunpass … a slower but scenic alternative to the highway.

    We ascended uphill through green meadows and pastures, small towns with typical Swiss chalets, and alpine scenery in every direction. Eventually, we arrived at the pass, which is at 4,950 feet above sea level, and then it was downhill through more alpine scenery.

    When Mui went to Switzerland in 2015 with his mother and sister, they did the Chocolate Train experience. That train took them to the Cailler chocolate factory in Broc for a tour and tasting. Since it was on our way to Gruyères, he suggested we stop in Broc on the off chance that we could take a tour. “I want you to experience it,” he said. I think he just wanted to get back into the tasting room for the all-you-can-eat chocolates 🍫 😄.

    As it turns out, there was a three hour wait for a tour. Nope … not going to do that. We did sneak into the shop, but it was packed wall-to-wall with people. Nope not going to wade into a sea of humanity for a couple of bars of chocolate. We’ll get our chocolate fix somewhere else.

    Onward to Gruyères … time to check into our hotel and perhaps go for a wander before we call it a day.    Weiterlesen

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Schloss Spiez ... from the garden we pop into on our way to the castle — Spiez, Switzerland.
    Garden @ Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.Garden @ Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.The Castle Church is at the far end of the courtyard — Spiez, Switzerland.Across the lawn ... Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.One of the many beautiful carved doors @ Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.Stoves decorated with ceramic tiles were used for heating @ Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.Stained glass panels @ Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.Depiction of Spiez circled by Burgundian troops @ Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.The kitchen @ Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.From the kitchen @ Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.A box bed ... sign of a certain level of prosperity ... Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.The Gardrobe ... waste fell down a bricked shaft into a pit within the moat ... Schloss Spiez.Stained glass panels ... Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.Beautiful wood paneling @ Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.Banquet hall (added in 1614) ... Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.Plaster detail from the banquet hall @ Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.View of Spiez from the keep of Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.The marina and the town from the keep of Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.The Castle Church and Lake Thun from the keep of Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.Illustration and costume from a court dance ... Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.17th century illustration of the castle by A. Kauw ... Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.

    OtR: Schloss Spiez

    6. August in der Schweiz ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Today was another day on the road. But we needed to kill some time before heading to our next destination.

    So, after checking out of the studio apartment in Leissigen, we drove the short 5.5 miles to Spiez … a town on the shore of Lake Thun.

    First on our agenda was a visit to Schloss Spiez … the iconic landmark of the town. Arriving a few minutes before the castle opened for the day, we not only scored a parking spot just outside the castle, but also got to enjoy the grounds and the castle before it started to get crowded.

    Schloss Spiez is perched amidst vineyards on a peninsula that juts out towards the lake. It was constructed in 933 on the orders of Rudolph II, the King of Burgundy. As it changed hands over the years, bits and pieces were added to the original castle … such as the main tower/keep, which dates back to the 13th century, and which reached its current height of 128 feet in 1600. The residential wings date back to the 13th and 14th centuries. The current appearance of the schloss — which resembles more a patrician residence rather than a castle — is from the period between the 15th to the 18th century.

    Once we purchased our admission, we toured the rooms at our own pace, eventually climbing to the top of the square tower from which we enjoyed expansive views of the town and the vineyards, and Lake Thun.    Weiterlesen

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    The Castle Church from Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.
    The Castle Church from Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.The Castle Church — Spiez, Switzerland.Frescoes in the Castle Church — Spiez, Switzerland.Schloss Spiez ... from the church yard — Spiez, Switzerland.Schloss Spiez ... from the church yard — Spiez, Switzerland.Le Roselier ... an inn built in 1743 is now a private residence — Spiez, Switzerland.Le Roselier ... murals painted by Victor Surbek in 1933-1934 — Spiez, Switzerland.Reconstruction of a 17th century herb garden — Spiez, Switzerland.Vineyards — Spiez, Switzerland.Lakefront promenade — Spiez, Switzerland.Eurasian Coots on Lake Thun — Spiez, Switzerland.Niesen is the iconic mountain known as the "Swiss Pyramid" — Spiez, Switzerland.The keep of Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.Find the boat in this picture — Spiez, Switzerland.A closer look at the boat in the wall of the house — Spiez, Switzerland.The Castle Church — Spiez, Switzerland.Sun dial — Spiez, Switzerland.One of the boats that ply Lake Thun is bringing another load of visitors to Spiez, Switzerland.

    OtR: Stroll Around Spiez

    6. August in der Schweiz ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Before leaving Schloss Spiez, we took advantage of the lovely day to sit at a table in the courtyard and have a quick snack.

    Tummies sated, we wandered across to the Castle Church for a quick peek. Constructed around 1000 CE, the Romanesque church sits on the site of an earlier stone church that had a free-standing tower. It served as the private chapel and burial site for the owners of the castle. The frescoes in the vaulted choir date from the 12th century and show Byzantine influences. Other paintings were added in the 16th century, but when the church was remodeled in the Baroque style a century later, they were covered with whitewash. The whitewash was removed when the church was restored to its Romanesque state after ownership passed to the Spiez Castle Foundation in 1929.

    From the church, we walked along a narrow path and used a staircase that took us down to the marina for a stroll along the lakefront. Being the iconic landmark of the town, the schloss was visible from every point around Spiez … as was Niesen, the mountain known as the “Swiss Pyramid.”    Weiterlesen

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Patio of the Niederhornblick ... a nice spot for our wine & cheese dinner — Leissigen, Switzerland.
    Niederhornblick ... a studio apartment for our overnight stay — Leissigen, Switzerland.The Dorint in Beatenberg is across the lake from our apartment in Leissigen, Switzerland.

    OtR: O/N @ Leissigen

    5. August in der Schweiz ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Once we descended from Susten Pass, an uneventful drive brought us to a familiar road … along the south shore of Lake Brienz. From there, we continued onto the new-to-us south shore drive of Lake Thun.

    The studio apartment we booked in Leissigen overlooks the lake. It is named Niederhornblick [Niederhorn view]. Aside from the view, there’s really nothing special about the place. But it has all the amenities we need for a simple overnight stay.

    Funny enough, we are almost directly across the lake from the Dorint in Beatenberg … where we spent a week earlier in our trip. Of course, the Dorint is looking down at us from its perch high in the mountains!    Weiterlesen

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    And this is just the beginning of the road to Susten Pass!
    One of the 26 bridges/tunnels on our way up to Susten Pass.Looking back across the valley where we begin our Susten Pass drive.On the way up to Susten Pass.Idyllic alpine scenery on the way up to Susten Pass.Steinmandli Human Nature ... gives a whole new meaning to rock art.One of the many tunnel/bridges on the road up to Susten Pass.Wassen is the east end of the Susten Pass Road.Passing Wassen to begin the climb up to the Susten Pass.Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.Meien is one of the villages on the Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.Sustlibach (Sustli Brook) cascades from the high reaches down to and under a bridge on the road.Sustlibach cascade on Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.I have a feeling that this café is popular with bikers — Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.Taking a break for refreshments at Sustenbrüggli — Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.Mui has coffee; I have a Sanbitter, a non-alcoholic sparking aperitif @ Sustebrüggli.Even up here there is public transport — Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.At Susten Pass ... over 7,400 feet — Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.Alpine cheese anyone? — Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.Steinsee is formed by meltwater from Stein Glacier — Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.Panorama of Steinsee, Stein Glacier, and the Alps — Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.Twin waterfalls streaming down the mountain — Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.Our Susten Pass drive is over ... near Meiringen, Switzerland.

    OtR: Driving Over Susten Pass

    5. August in der Schweiz ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Once we entered Switzerland, we had a decision to make. Which Alpine pass to drive over to get to our overnight stop?

    Our options included the St Gotthard Pass … which we could access by deviating from the highway in Airolo. Or we could continue on the highway to Hospental and go through the Furka Pass (of 007 “Gold Finger” fame). Or go even further north to Wassen and drive over the Susten Pass.

    All afforded spectacular views … if the pictures we’d seen were to be believed. So, that wasn’t a decision factor. In the end, we chose Susten Pass … which would give us a more or less direct shot west to Thunersee … not counting all the hairpin curves zigzagging through the mountains.

    Our route took us from Wassen (at 3,050 feet) to the top of the pass at 7,415 feet above sea level and then down to Innertkirchen (at 2,051 feet). The road — 30-miles long and purpose built for tourism — was constructed between 1938-1945. In service since September 1946, the road consists of 26 bridges and tunnels … many tight, zigzag curves … and a steep gradient that at time reaches 10%.

    The views are simply spectacular … jagged mountains, waterfalls, glaciers, and cute villages (in the valleys). Luckily, there are several places where one can pull over to breathe in the crisp, clean Alpine air, enjoy the scenery, and take a break from the dizzying drive.    Weiterlesen

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    Goodbye Italy!
    Hello Switzerland!

    OtR: Verbania to Leissigen

    5. August in Italien ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Arrivederci Italia … Bun di Swizzer (or it could be Bonjour Suisse … or Grüezi Schweizer … or Buongiorno Svizzera).

    We have crossed the ‘non-existent’ border between Italy and Switzerland.

    It turned out to be a bit of a challenge. Since the border crossing is officially closed, the GPS kept trying to reroute us all the way back to Switzerland by retracing our route coming into Italy a week ago.

    No worries. We disregarded the GPS instructions and got where we wanted to go.    Weiterlesen

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    Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.
    Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Chapter room (old refectory) @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Frescoes from the old refectory @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.One of the loggias leading to the church @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Sun-bleached frescoes of the Dance of the Macabre @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno.Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Olive and grape press @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Looking down the nave toward the main altar @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Ceiling above the main altar @Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.The Votive Chapel dedicated to Santa Caterina @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.The Votive Chapel dedicated to Santa Caterina @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.The Votive Chapel dedicated to Santa Caterina @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Fresco depicting the blessed Alberto @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Mummified remains of the blessed Alberto @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.St Nicholas Chapel ... considered the most important @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno.Chapel of Santa Caterina @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Lily amongst the thorns ... symbolizes the Virgin Mary ... Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso.Colored glass windows @ the church ... Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Garden @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso (water approach) — Leggiuno, Italy.

    Verbania: D5 … Eremo di SC del Sasso

    4. August ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    One of the reasons we looked at using the ferry system for today’s outing was the highly touted water approach to the Hermitage of Santa Caterina of Sasso in Leggiuno.

    The hermitage is perched on a rock ledge at the bottom of a cliff overlooking the Gulf of Borromeo. Arriving by ferry gives visitors a unique perspective that is not available from any other vantage point. Unfortunately, we just could not make the ferry schedule work … which meant going there by car after we left Rocca di Angera.

    Shortly after 3:30p, we were parking the car and making our way to the ticket office that sits high above the hermitage, requiring one to negotiate 286 steps to get to it. Fear not, modern engineering, has made it possible for an elevator shaft to be dug through the rock in 2010 to make the hermitage more accessible. We opted to walk down and take the elevator back up.

    The hermitage was founded by Alberto Besozzi, a wealthy merchant, who began living here as a hermit after surviving a violent storm at sea. In 1195, he agreed to provide spiritual support to the residents of Lago Maggiore … provided they constructed a chapel honoring Santa Caterina del Sasso. He died and was buried here in 1205. We would be seeing the remains of the eremite next to the chapel that was built per his request.

    The current hermitage is unique in that it is a combination of three chapels that were built separately during three different periods. The frescoes are similarly from different periods but primarily from the 14th to the 19th centuries.

    Walking along a covered loggia with arched openings overlooking the lake, we first stopped at the Chapter Room …. originally the refectory of the old hermitage, which was built in the 14th century.

    A second loggia with arched windows — and a sun-bleached fresco of the Dance of the Macabre high on the wall … which, sadly, I missed — brought us to an inner courtyard. Here was a grotto with nativity figures. Also an ancient wooden wine and olive press.

    On the far side of the courtyard, a portico led us inside the church, which consists of five small chapels that were fused together in the 16th century. The oldest of these is the Votive Chapel from the 12th century that is dedicated to St Catherine. Located at the back of the nave, it is the core around which the remaining structures were added. Signage nearby indicated that it was built using the same measurements as the sepulcher of St Catherine of Alexandria on Mount Sinai.

    Lying in a glass coffin in a frescoed-vault — the so-called Chapel of the Rocks— we found the body of the later beatified Alberto. Signage explained that at the beginning of the 18th century, five big boulders crashed down on the church, but came to a halt on top of the vault, without causing any serious damage. The boulders remained there until 1910 when they harmlessly completed their roll down to the ground.

    Continuing my wander inside the church, I made my way from the back to the front, and squishing myself past some furniture, I found the St Nicholas Chapel. Constructed between the end of the 13th and beginning of the 14th century. With its damaged, but richly detailed frescoes that predate the ones in the Votive Chapel, it is considered the most important part of the church. I found additional old frescoes in the adjacent chapel dedicated to St Catherine. Though the date of its construction is not certain, its name is mentioned in a document from 1315. The Chapel of St Mary was next to… leading me back to the Chapel of the Rocks.

    Retracing our steps through the loggias, we wrapped up our visit in the garden at the far end of the grounds. I’m not sure how many people visit the gardens. Certainly, there was no one there when we went in for a wander … no colorful flowers, but a peaceful place to escape. From here, with tickets for the elevator in hand, we found the access tunnel leading 148 feet (45m) into the rock cliff to ride up 167 feet (51m) up to the top of the cliff.

    I’m glad we went to the hermitage even if we had to settle for not seeing it from the water. (I’ve included a screenshot from the website of the hermitage so you can see what we missed.)

    We managed to get on the 5:05p ferry departure from Laveno … a double-decker this time … but the upper level was entirely empty. By 6:00p, we were at home discussing dinner plans.

    Tomorrow we leave Italy to return to Switzerland for what’s left of our road trip.    Weiterlesen

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    Sala delle Cerimonie — Rocca di Angera, Italy.
    Sala delle Cerimonie — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala delle Cerimonie — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala delle Cerimonie — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala delle Cerimonie — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala delle Cerimonie — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala dei Fasti Borromeo — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala dei Fasti Borromeo — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala dei Fasti Borromeo — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala della Giustizia — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala della Giustizia — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala della Giustizia — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala della Giustizia — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala della Giustizia — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala della Giustizia — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala della Giustizia — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala della Giustizia — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala del Buon Romano — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Rocca di Angera — Angera, Italy.Rocca di Angera — Angera, Italy.Time to move on to our next stop for today ... Rocca di Angera — Angera, Italy.

    Verbania: D5 … Rocca di Angera (Part II)

    4. August in Italien ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    After checking out the doll and toy museum, which I mentioned in part I, we took the stairs up to the top floor … where we found a series of interconnected rooms designated as the historic halls.

    We began in the “Sala del Buon Romano” … so named for the painting that depicts Giovanni Borromeo driving the Goths from Rome … for which he was given the honorary title of “Buon Romano” [Good Roman].

    “Sala delle Cerimonie” [Hall of Ceremonies] was next. Of course, my eyes immediately went to the collection of mural fragments. At first, I thought they were the restored sections of the murals that once decorated the walls of this hall. Reading the info panel, however, I was surprised to learn that they were brought here from the Palazzo Borromeo in Milan. Turns out that the grand edifice was largely destroyed by WWII bombings in 1943. The fragments that could be saved were removed in 1946 and later brought here. The style of the murals is thought be that of Michelino da Bezosso, who worked for the family in 1445.

    The “Sala dei Fasti Borromeo” was next. The translator tells me the name means Hall of the Glories of Borromeo. I don’t know how high the mural decorating the lower 2/3rds of the room actually went, but I liked the geometric design. Against this background were two oversized paintings from the 1600s. The description panel stated that the room was named for these paintings, which were “… intended to celebrate the antiquity and splendor of the Borromeo dynasty …”. They sure weren’t shy about proclaiming their importance.

    And then we came to the pièce de résistance … the “Sala della Giustizia” [Hall of Justice. An anonymous master artist, known simply as the “Maestro di Angera,” painted the room with frescoes depicting the 1277 Battle of Desio … correlating it with the influence of the planets and the constellations of the zodiac. Geometric patterns added further interest.

    By all accounts, the frescoes decorating the walls and vaulted ceiling of the hall are considered amongst the most complex of the medieval period. Art historians agree that the unknown maestro had a storytelling flair uncommon in the world of northern Italian painting in the 13th and 14th centuries. All I know is that I was quite entranced by the frescoes that have survived to this day and can only imagine what a wondrous feast of color the room must have been back in the day when the paintings were intact.

    I’m glad we made time during our Verbania stay to visit the castle … we enjoyed it both inside and out.    Weiterlesen

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    Rocca di Angera ... as we drive up the limestone hill upon which it is perched — Angera, Italy.
    Arched entry into the first courtyard and belvedere — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Belvedere overlooking Lago Maggiore — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Angera Town and Lago Maggiore ... from the belvedere — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Angera Town from the belvedere — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Angera Town from the belvedere — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Rocca di Angera — Angera, Italy.Borromeo family emblems and the access to the lower courtyard — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Lower Courtyard — Rocca di Angera, Italy.18th century wine press in the former stables — Rocca di Angera, Italy.The lower and upper courtyards — Rocca di Angera, Italy.The lookout terrace of Torre Castellana ... now an observation terrace — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Expansive view from Torre Castellana — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Lago Maggiore and Angera from Torre Castellana — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Lago Maggiore and the defensive curtain wall from Torre Castellana — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Small vineyard on the castle grounds — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Defensive curtain wall — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Medieval Gardens — Rocca di Angera, Italy.The castle buildings from the Medieval Gardens — Rocca di Angera, Italy.The castle complex from the Medieval Gardens — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Medieval Gardens — Rocca di Angera, Italy.La Bambolaia (donated by P. Bonato) ... from the doll museum — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Small sample from the doll museum ... including "A Turk Smoking" (1890) — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sample from the doll museum — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Small sample from the doll museum ... including a Barbie doll — Rocca di Angera, Italy.

    Verbania: D5 … Rocca di Angera (Part I)

    4. August in Italien ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    Our two-part day had us driving to Rocca di Angera first … the farthest point of our outing.

    As we had hoped, there was very little traffic on this section of the lakefront road and it took under one hour to get from the ferry terminal in Laveno to the town of Angera. Next, following instructions from the GPS, we drove roads so narrow that we had to fold the sideview mirrors so as not to break them. The good news? The road was one-way. No oncoming traffic to deal with as we made our way to the top of the 660-foot high limestone hill.

    On the way up, we got our first glimpse of the impressive Rocca di Angera … a castle that sits atop the spur of rock … overlooking the Lombardy shore of Lago Maggiore. Built for military control prior to the 10th century, the property was purchased by the Borromeo family in 1449 and still belongs to them.

    The castle consists of five buildings constructed during different time periods … including a tower and several wings. Several of the castle halls are used for exhibits that are included in the admission … as is the doll museum.

    After purchasing our admission, we walked through the arched gate and up the cobblestone path to another arched gate that opened on to a courtyard. Here, we wandered over to the belvedere to enjoy the aerial views of Lake Maggiore and the town.

    A third arched entrance — above which was a fresco depicting some of the Borromeo family emblems … i.e. unicorn for devotion; camel for patience — led us to the Corte Inferiore [Lower Courtyard]. A wander into the former stables revealed an 18th century wine press — one of the largest in Europe — and barrels that were once filled with wine.

    From the courtyard we gained entrance into one of the wings. I’m going to limit this footprint to the castle grounds and the medieval gardens, so I’ll skip the halls for now and go straight up the stairs at one end of the Hall of Justice.

    The wooden staircase took us to a narrow stone staircase that led to the covered terrace at the top of the Torre Castellana. I’m sure the space was intended as a defensive lookout when it was built. For us, it served as a great vantage point from which to enjoy the expansive views in every direction … and also gave us our first glimpse of the fortified curtain walls enclosing the castle grounds.

    Descending the tower, we went outside and wandered over to the Giardino Medievale. The sign at the entrance explained the four quadrants of the garden — the shaded Grove … for rest and relaxation; the small herbs garden … for aromatic kitchen and medicinal plants; the vegetable garden … the smaller size of which indicates the rise in prominence of ornamental gardens among the well-to-do classes; and the Prince’s Garden … strictly for pleasure and to delight the senses.

    At this point, I should stop writing. But one other part of the castle that I am going to squeeze into this footprint is the museum founded in 1988 by a member of the Borromeo family for the express purpose of exhibiting a collection of dolls and toys from the 18th century to today. Housed in 12 rooms in the Visconti and Borromeo wings, the museum is the first of its kind in Italy. I’m going to share a few photos from the museum in this footprint as well.

    Next up … the halls of Rocca di Angera

    ———————————————

    For those interested in toy museums … extra information from a panel at the entrance to the museum …

    “ … there is a clear connection between antique and modern dolls and social and education behavior, as well as strong ties with the customs and fashions of the past and present. … Without detracting from their ancient charm, the museum intends to follow paths that are strictly connected to history and the specific technology to make these items, in order to provide an essentially limited, educational overview that leaves any other interpretation to the visitor.
    … For this reason, the dolls are displayed in strictly chronological order, showing the different materials used in various periods and phases, from the age of handcrafting to the advent of the mass toy industry.    Weiterlesen

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    One of the passenger-only ferries on Lago Maggiore — Intra, Italy
    Leaving the ferry terminal in Intra, Italy.Arriving in Laveno, Italy.Marina near Laveno, Italy.Mui ready to drive the car off the ferry in Laveno ... I will join him on shore.Waiting for the 5:05p ferry to depart Laveno, Italy.Panorama of Laveno, Italy as the ferry prepares to depart.Departing Laveno for the return ferry ride to Intra.Looking back at a part of Lago Maggiore's Lombardy shoreline.From shore to the ferry ... on the way back from Laveno, Italy.Hello Intra, Italy.

    Verbania: D5 … A Ferry Ride

    4. August in Italien ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    The car went for a ferry ride on Lago Maggiore today … and took us along, too.

    Wanting to avoid the heavy traffic on the lakefront road heading south from Verbania and around the tip of the lake, we decided to take one of the ferries that ply the lake daily. When we couldn’t make the passenger-only ferry schedule work, we turned to the Servizio Traghetto, which regularly ferries vehicles between Intra and Laveno … a ride of approximately 20 minutes.

    We had a beautiful, blue-sky day for our ride … especially in the afternoon. On the way to Laveno, we opted to enjoy the ride from the passenger deck. On the way back to Intra, we had a front row seat, which allowed us to enjoy the ride from the car … though I did hop out for some photos and videos.

    Today turned out to be a photo-heavy day, which I am going to have to split into several footprints … starting with this footprint about today’s car ferry rides.    Weiterlesen

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    Strolling the back streets of Intra, Italy.
    Strolling the back streets of Intra, Italy.Around the corner and behind these buildings we find delicious gelato — Intra, Italy.Looks like we'll have to wait a bit before we get our turn at the gelateria — Intra, Italy.Strolling the back streets of Intra, Italy.Strolling the back streets of Intra, Italy.The Basilica of Saint Victor — Intra, Italy.The Basilica of Saint Victor — Intra, Italy.The Basilica of Saint Victor — Intra, Italy.The Basilica of Saint Victor — Intra, Italy.The Basilica of Saint Victor — Intra, Italy.Scale model of the Basilica of Saint Victor — Intra, Italy.The Basilica of Saint Victor — Intra, Italy.

    Verbania: D4 … Intra

    3. August in Italien ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    Intra is one of several small districts of Verbania … situated on the Borromean Gulf of Lago Maggiore. Leaving the beautiful grounds at Villa Taranto, we headed there next.

    Finding a parking spot near the ferry landing, we went off to find some food for our late lunch. It was already siesta time, which meant that our choices were limited. Nonetheless, we had a very tasty meal at Bar Sempione … a thin crust pizza with prosciutto and pistachio pesto … grilled octopus with roasted potatoes … all to share.

    Skipping dessert, we wandered the back streets of Intra in search of gelato, peeking into the Basilica of Saint Victor along the way. Our steps took us to a hidden piazzetta where we found a popular gelateria … the queue flowing out onto the street. It was worth the wait to take our turn at the counter.

    With the late afternoon temperature rising along with the humidity, we decided to call it a day and returned to the apartment to rest up. Tomorrow is our last day in Verbania and we have plans to check out a different section of the Lago Maggiore shoreline.    Weiterlesen

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    Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.
    The Putti Fountain at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.From the dahlia maze at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.The Victoria cruziana greenhouse at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.The Victoria cruziana water lilies are native to South America ... Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto.Mausoleum Chapel at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.Mausoleum Chapel at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.Mausoleum Chapel at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.Mausoleum Chapel at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.The Valley Bridge at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.Villa Taranto at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.Villa Taranto at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.The lotus pond at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.The terraced garden (from the bottom) ... Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.The Terraced Gardens at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.The Terraced Gardens at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.The Terraced Gardens at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.The Terraced Gardens from the Petalo Pavilion at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.The Fisherman ... the Terraced Gardens at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.Villa Taranto with the Swiss Mountains as a backdrop ... at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto.Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.Intra & Lago Maggiore from the belvedere at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.Cityscape from the belvedere at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.

    Verbania: D4 … Villa Taranto Gardens

    3. August in Italien ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    Staying local today meant a short drive to the Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto, located between Intra and Pallanza, two districts overlooking Lago Maggiore.

    Established by a Scotsman by the name of McEacharn between 1931-1940, the botanic gardens cover 16 hectares. After acquiring an existing villa, which dated back to 1870, and the neighboring lands, he made a number of major changes to the grounds, including the addition of several water features.

    The villa — named after an ancestor of McEacharn who was conferred the title of Duke of Taranto by Napoleon — now houses government offices, and is closed to public access. The sprawling gardens, which feature nearly 20,000 plants and more than 4 miles of paths, have been open to the public since 1952.

    We found parking in the lot overlooking Lago Maggiore, purchased our admission, and set off to explore the gardens … consisting of colorful flower beds; manicured lawns; terraced gardens; sculptures hidden amongst the plants; a maze of dahlias; a tropical greenhouse filled with Victoria cruziana water lilies; a lotus pond filled with so many plants that it resembled a forest of oversized green platters; rare trees rediscovered after they were thought to be extinct; fountains and streams spanned by bridges made of stone; and a myriad of other features.

    Taking our time to slowly stroll along the paths, we enjoyed the grounds … glad to have blue skies and sunshine, and temperatures that were milder than previous days.

    As we made our way to the formal terraced gardens at the high point of the grounds, we stopped at the McEacharn Mausoleum Chapel that was built in 1965 … with floral-themed stained glass windows bringing the color from the grounds inside. Various vantage points along the way afforded us views of the villa … with a fountain in the foreground sending a jet of water high into the air … with the not-too-distant Swiss mountains serving as a backdrop.

    The formal terraced gardens were a riot of warm colors, the scenery with the mountain-backdrop stunning. We wandered around a bit. We sat in the Petalo Pavilion for a bit. Eventually, our stomachs started complaining that it was long past the noon hour. So, we began the downward trek by way of a set of zig-zagging paths that afforded us views of Lago Maggiore and the neighboring town of Intra.    Weiterlesen

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    Pallanza Cemetery — Verbania, Italy.
    Statue of Christ with Egyptian symbology on the walls ... Pallanza Cemetery — Verbania, Italy.Closer look at the Egyptian symbology on the walls ... Pallanza Cemetery — Verbania, Italy.Pallanza Cemetery — Verbania, Italy.Pallanza Cemetery — Verbania, Italy.Pallanza Cemetery — Verbania, Italy.Pallanza Cemetery — Verbania, Italy.

    Verbania: D4 … Pallanza Cemetery

    3. August in Italien ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    We decided to stay local today.

    As we were leaving, Mui said he wanted to drive by what looked like a memorial gate he’d seen from a distance. So, we made a detour to check it out.

    Turns out that what he had seen was the entrance to the Pallanza Cemetery. We decided to go in and take a look at some of the monumental family graves decorated with life-size statues. One of the most interesting was a grave that featured a statue of Christ in a niche that included pagan Egyptian symbols carved into the surrounding rock wall.Weiterlesen

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    Collegiate Church of San Vittore — Cannobio, Italy.
    Collegiate Church of San Vittore — Cannobio, Italy.Collegiate Church of San Vittore — Cannobio, Italy.Stone art in Cannobio, Italy.Delicious fish and pasta lunch at Antica Stallera — Cannobio, ItalyFresco on a building — Cannobio, Italy.On our way to Piazza King Victor Emmanuel III — Cannobio, Italy.Piazza King Victor Emmanuel III and the marina in the rain — Cannobio, Italy.Piazza King Victor Emmanuel III and the marina — Cannobio, Italy.Charming Italian town ambiance from the marina — Cannobio, Italy.Greater Cormorant at the marina — Cannobio, Italy.Colorful floral display — Cannobio, Italy.Sanctuary of the Santissima Pietà — Cannobio, Italy.Sanctuary of the Santissima Pietà — Cannobio, Italy.Sanctuary of the Santissima Pietà — Cannobio, Italy.Sanctuary of the Santissima Pietà — Cannobio, Italy.Depictions of the painting that was the centerpiece of the Miracle of the Holy Pity — Cannobio, IT.Yellow-legged Gull — Cannobio, Italy.Stone seats built into the wall along the promenade offer a place to rest and enjoy the lake views.Charming streetscape — Cannobio, Italy.Along the lakefront promenade — Cannobio, Italy.Looking toward Piazza King Victor Emmanuel III from the promenade — Cannobio, Italy.Fresco on a building — Cannobio, Italy.

    Verbania: D3 … Cannobio

    2. August in Italien ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Cannobio, our next stop, was just about 4 miles from Cannero Riviera. Here we had to go around the parking lot a couple of times before we were able to snag a spot to leave the car for a couple of hours.

    Following an alley, we came to the main road where we found the Collegiate Church of San Vittore … the earliest version of which was built in 1076. The current church, which has an elliptical dome and cupola, was consecrated in 1749. The sacred rib — the story of which I will relate later in this footprint — is kept in a chapel in this church.

    On our way down to the lakefront piazza overlooking Lago Maggiore, we detoured to have a late lunch at Antica Stallera … known for serving homemade specialties. Despite the threat of rain, we opted to sit in the garden, protected by an oversized umbrella. I ordered pasta; Mui ordered fish … and we shared the two dishes. We skipped dessert in lieu of getting gelato somewhere in town.

    A light rain was falling when we left the restaurant. Putting on our rain jackets, we strolled toward the lakefront, found a gelateria en route for a sweet treat, and continued to the piazza named for King Victor Emmanuel III. Despite the rain, the scenery with the colored buildings overlooking Lago Maggiore was charming. Unlike Cannero Riviera, Cannobio was buzzing with activity, the restaurants and shops doing brisk business. No one seemed to mind the rain.

    Walking past the small marina, we continued toward the far end of the waterfront. Seeing the door to the Sanctuary of the Santissima Pietà open, we went inside. The construction of the church was commissioned by San Carlo Borromeo around 1578 … over an earlier church, which stood on the spot where the Miracle of the Holy Pity is said to have occurred in 1522.

    The miracle involves a painting of Christ standing with Mary and St John. According to the story, the figure of Christ came alive and began to emit blood and tears, while a fragment of a human rib protruded from his wounded side. The original painting is in a niche of the main altar. A replica of the painting was displayed on an easel off to the side for ease of viewing. The rib, which I mentioned above as being kept in the Church of San Vittore, is carried to the Sanctuary once a year on 7 January … illuminated only by the candles and lanterns placed on windowsills and along the streets.

    The rain had ended by the time we left the church. Reversing our course, we strolled back to the piazza and beyond, and found an alternate route back to the car via the waterfront. Perfect timing, as we missed the heavy rain that started to fall as we left Cannobio to return to Verbania.

    ———————————————————

    For those interested in what we ate: The pasta dish was made with busiate (a type of pasta that originated in Sicily) prepared Nerano style with courgettes (including the flowers), Caciocavallo cheese, and a hint of Sorrento lemon scent. The fish was a sea bass fillet, served with fennel, carrots, citrus fruit, and lemon oil.    Weiterlesen

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Castelli di Cannero ... drive-by shooting on our way to Cannero Riviera, Italy.
    Castelli di Cannero ... drive-by shooting on our way to Cannero Riviera, Italy.Our first glimpse of Cannero Riviera, Italy.The marina — Cannero Riviera, Italy.Lemons grow in the area thanks to the temperate weather — Cannero Riviera, Italy.Cannero, Italy.Cannero Riviera, Italy.The old port — Cannero Riviera, Italy.The Old Port dates back to the 19th century — Cannero Riviera, Italy.Chiesa di San Rocco — Cannero Riviera, Italy.An open door on the street allows a glimpse of a fresco — Cannero Riviera, Italy.Chiesa di San Giorgio and hillside view from the bridge — Cannero Riviera, Italy.Chiesa di San Giorgio from the bridge — Cannero Riviera, Italy.Chiesa di San Giorgio from a residential street — Cannero Riviera, Italy.Cannero Creek from the bridge — Cannero Riviera, Italy.The replica of the Grotto of Lourdes — Cannero Riviera, Italy.The Parish Church of San Giorgio — Cannero Riviera, Italy.The Parish Church of San Giorgio — Cannero Riviera, Italy.The dome fresco features the Assumption of Mary into Heaven with Pope Pius XII — Cannero Riviera.The Parish Church of San Giorgio — Cannero Riviera, Italy.The wax model of St Faustus the Martyr ... in the crypt of San Giorgio — Cannero, Italy.Model of the Castelli di Cannero ... in the crypt of San Giorgio — Cannero, Italy.Model of the Castelli di Cannero ... in the crypt of San Giorgio — Cannero, Italy.

    Verbania: D3 … Cannero Riviera

    2. August in Italien ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Today we headed in the opposite direction from Stresa to explore a bit of the northwestern shore of Lago Maggiore. That we had far less traffic to deal with on the shoreline road was a bonus.

    We’d seen photos of the Castelli de Cannero, three islets on the lake … two of which are home to the ruins of ancient fortifications that were built during the first quarter of the 16th century by Ludovico Borromeo. We kept an eye out for them as we drove, and I managed to get a couple of useable photos … drive-by shooting the only option since there was nowhere to pull over.

    Arriving at the small town of Cannero Riviera, we lucked out with a parking spot right on the waterfront … not far from the small marina … and the ‘lemon sculpture’ on the lakefront promenade.

    We knew that landing on the islets to visit the ruins of the fortifications was not possible, but we thought we might do a boat ride for a closer look if the timing worked out. No can do … as we found out from signage at the pier.

    Instead, we went for a stroll on the lakefront promenade, enjoying the beautiful day. For what is described as a bustling resort town, the town was unexpectedly quiet … which made our walk all the more pleasant.

    When we reached the old boat harbor, we turned inland, negotiating the maze of narrow streets of what was a fishing hamlet in medieval times. We peeked into the Chiesa di San Rocco when we found its door open … date of construction unknown but it took on its current form in the 17th century; continued through residential neighborhoods to cross the Ponte della Vittorio; and headed up the hill to the Chiesa di San Giorgio, which we had seen from the road as we drove by.

    Arriving at the church from the back road, we stopped first at the Grotta della Madonna di Lourdes below the church. Nearby signage explained that the cave was manmade and replicated the natural one in France. Using the stairs off to the side, we then went up to the church.

    The present day San Giorgio, which dates back to 1841, replaced an earlier church that was destroyed in 1829 by a flash flood of the Cannero Stream. Historic documents indicate, however, that there were previous religious buildings on the site … one as early as 985. Some of the features, such as the marble balustrades, were salvaged from the previous church.

    Before leaving, I stumbled on the crypt from 1892 where the relics of St Faustus the Martyr are preserved … the reconstructed skeletal remains were remodeled in wax in 1957. Also in the crypt was a model of the Castelli di Cannero, so I did get a closer look at the ancient fortifications after all 😜.

    Taking a roundabout route, we returned to the car. The clouds in the sky had started to turn grey. Rain was clearly going to start falling soon. Nonetheless, we decided push on further north to do a bit more sightseeing.    Weiterlesen

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Mui waiting for me to join him for a stroll in the gardens — Isola Bella, Stresa.
    Diana's Atrium, named for the pagan goddess (statue in the alcove) — Isola Bella, Stresa.A number of peacocks roam about freely ... this one patiently posed for me — Isola Bella.2Teatro Massimo ... with a number of visitors when we first arrive — Isola Bella, Stresa.Teatro Massimo ... 15 minutes later and hardly anyone else around — Isola Bella, Stresa.A few of the statues at Teatro Massimo — Isola Bella, Stresa.Statue of Neptune ... Teatro Massimo — Isola Bella, Stresa.Colorful flowers — Isola Bella, Stresa.One of the garden niches with a statue — Isola Bella, Stresa.A glimpse of the Parterre of Azaleas from the terrace — Isola Bella, Stresa.Parterre of Azaleas ... beyond the mountains is Switzerland — Isola Bella, Stresa.Parterre of Azaleas — Isola Bella, Stresa.Parterre of Azaleas — Isola Bella, Stresa.Color through a wrought iron gate — Isola Bella, Stresa.Gardens at Isola Bella, Stresa.The tower behind us now houses a café Parterre of Azaleas — Isola Bella, Stresa.Gardens at Isola Bella, Stresa.Garden of Love from the terrace — Isola Bella, Stresa.Designed in 1634, the Garden of Love retains its original Italian Garden layout — Isola Bella.The Garden of Love — Isola Bella, Stresa.Gardens at Isola Bella, Stresa.Glimpse of the palazzo through the trees in one of the gardens — Isola Bella, Stresa.Gardens at Isola Bella, Stresa.From the orchid greenhouse at the gardens of Isola Bella, Stresa.Waterfront on the back side of Isola Bella, Stresa.Mergansers entertain us as we wait for the boat to take us to the mainland — Isola Bella, Stresa.Bye bye Isola Bella ... from the boat back to Stresa, Italy.The terraces of the Garden of Love on Isola Bella ... from the boat ride back to Stresa.

    Verbania: D2 … Isola Bella (the Gardens)

    1. August in Italien ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    And then there were the gardens at Isola Bella … some of which predate the construction of the palazzo.

    The formal Italian-style baroque gardens continue the over-the-top theme of the palazzo outside. Beautiful … perfectly manicured … flowers adding pops of color … white peacocks strolling about freely.

    We spent quite a bit of time at Teatro Massimo, the section of the garden that consists of ten terraces that form a truncated pyramid … surrounded by sculptures and parterres. And also at the Garden of Love, which retains its original Italian Garden layout from the 17th century.

    When we first arrived at Teatro Massimo, there were a number of visitors dawdling in front of the main feature … returning 15 minutes later, there was hardly a soul around … perfect for a selfie. The rest of the gardens were crowd-free for some reason. No complaints. It made for a peaceful stroll as we checked out the nooks and crannies.

    Turns out that the tower at the far end of the gardens has been turned into a café. We debated getting some pastries and tea, and sitting down for a bit. But ended up getting some gelato on the run so that we would have time to explore the island village. Should have done the tea and pastries as we were disappointed that the village consisted of little more than shops and restaurants.

    Returning to the pier for the ride back to Stresa, we were entertained by a flock of mergansers swimming near the shoreline … and small brown birds in search of tidbits of snacks dropped on the ground by visitors.

    The boat returned us directly to Stresa, so it was a really short ride … one that, however, gave us a chance to see Isola Bella from the water.    Weiterlesen

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    The state staircase has granite steps and a marble balustrade — Isola Bella, Stresa.
    Medal Room ... originally the Sala Grande, used for state banquets — Isola Bella, Stresa.Berthier Gallery Ceiling; the walls are covered with artwork in gilded frames — Isola Bella, Stresa.Sala del Trono ... so named for the monumental 18th century throne — Isola Bella, Stresa.Queen's Room ... named for the wife of the King of Sardinia, who spent two nights here — Isola BellaSalone Nuovo; last addition to the palazzo ... Mui provides perspective for the size of the room.Ceiling of Salone Nuovo — Isola Bella, Stresa.The Music Room is where the Stresa Conference was held in April 1935 — Isola Bella, Stresa.1Isola dei Pescatori from the Music Room — Isola Bella, Stresa.Photo op with Isola dei Pescatori — Isola Bella, Stresa.Ceiling detail from the Small Study — Isola Bella, Stresa.Napoleon's Room ... where Bonaparte slept in 1797 with his wife, Josephine — Isola Bella, Stresa.Luca Giordano Room ... named for his paintings; red velvet chairs belonged to Cardinal F. Borromeo.Rare saddle made with carved bone plaques on a wooden structure — Isola Bella, Stresa.Conversation Room; the table was a gift from Pope Leo XII to Count Gilberto Borromeo — Isola Bella.Ballroom ; Belgium's King Leopold was so taken with the room that he recreated a copy — Isola Bella.Display of some of the puppets used in the island's old theater — Isola Bella, Stresa."Sleeping Venus" in the third room of the Grotto Apartment — Isola Bella, Stresa.Floor and ceiling detail from the Grotto Apartment — Isola Bella, Stresa.6th Grotto; collection of saddles; architectural model of Arona Fortress (destroyed by Napoleon).Margherita Medici Room; named for her ceremonial portrait; wife of Gilberto II Borromeo.Galleria degli Arazzi; houses a collection of Flemish tapestries from around 1565 — Isola Bella.A tapestry from the Unicorn Collection; the unicorn was one of the symbols of the Borromeos.Fresco Hall ... fresco was brought here from the Borromeo Palazzo in Milan — Isola Bella, Stresa.Spiral Staircase in the Tower ... left incomplete with no decoration — Isola Bella, Stresa.

    Verbania: D2 … Isola Bella (the Palazzo)

    1. August in Italien ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    The cruise from Isola dei Pescatori to Isola Bella was a short one … no more than five minutes. We got off the boat at a pier near the monumental palazzo that, together with extensive gardens, is the centerpiece of the island.

    When the Borromeos — a wealthy Italian noble family — first acquired the island in the early 16th century, it was little more than a barren rock. Carlo III Borromeo named the island after his wife, Isabella. After all, the island came to him as part of her dowry. In 1632, he began construction of the palazzo. The project was delayed due to a plague outbreak, and later continued by Vitaliano VI and Carlo IV … the latter adding the terraced gardens. Generations of Borromeos followed, each adding its own touch. The palazzo took its present form in 1948 with the addition of the Salone Nuovo. Members of the family still live in a part of the palazzo during the warmer months.

    Described as a Baroque art museum, the opulence of the palazzo is quite something else. Frescoed walls and ceilings; gilded ornamentations; plaster of Paris decorations that add a 3D effect; gobelin-upholstered chairs; invaluable artwork in carved and gilded frames; crystal chandeliers; gifts from Popes; marble inlay and terrazzo floors; each room named for its original purpose, historic event or a distinctive feature. All designed as acknowledgment of the family’s wealth and prestige.

    Our meander through the building took us from a throne room complete with a gilded throne topped with an embroidered silk canopy; to a sala where the centerpiece was a gilded piano with a painted lid stood; to the Napoleon Room where Bonaparte and his wife slept on 17 August 1797; to the grotto apartment … garden-level rooms that are literally encrusted with pebbles, tufa rock, marble, and seashells; to the tapestry gallery that exhibits a collection of Flemish tapestries known as the Unicorn Collection … dating back to 1565; to the La Sala della Musica … where Benito Mussolini and the heads of the French and British governments met to discuss the violations of the Versailles Treaty by the Hitler Germany. It was all over-the-top … gaudy some might say; beautiful and elegant others might find it. Interesting either way.

    Next up … the gardens.    Weiterlesen

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Isola dei Pescatori (L) & Isola Bella from the boat pier ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.
    Aerial view of Isola dei Pescatori (L) & Isola Bella; Isola Madre further out on Lago Maggiore.Closer look at Isola dei Pescatori ... one of the Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Heading off on our boat ride on Lake Maggiore, we pass Isola dei Pescatori ...... for a quick stop to drop off passengers at Isola Madre, before ...... returning to Isola dei Pescatori where we see the back side of the island and then ...... continue to the boat pier to disembark for a brief visit — Isola dei Pescatori, Italy.Welcome to Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Lacecap hydrangea ... Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Mui showing how narrow some of the streets are ... Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands.Mainland lakefront town from Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Mainland lakefront town from Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Small boat harbor ... Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Small boat harbor ... Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Statue of the Virgin Mary at the small boat harbor ... Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands.Waterfowl in the small boat harbor ... Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Church of San Vittore ... Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Church of San Vittore ... Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Church of San Vittore ... Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.16th century fresco ... Church of San Vittore on Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands.16th century frescoes ... Church of San Vittore on Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands.Photo op with Isola Bella in the background ... from Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands.Isola Bella ... our next stop ... from Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands.Heading off to Isola Bella next ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.

    Verbania: Day 2 … Isola dei Pescatori

    1. August in Italien ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Our more relaxed attitude towards travel these days means that early departures for sightseeing are now the exception rather than the norm. Hence, it was getting on towards 10:00a when we got in the car and headed to Stresa.

    Our destination was the Isole Borromee … aka Borromean Islands. We could have done the boat trip from Pallanza and avoided the traffic on the lakefront road to Stresa. But the ride across Lago Maggiore from Pallanza is longer, and the schedule is less frequent.

    Traffic on the lakefront road was bad, but not horrible like it was yesterday. Once we neared Stresa, I used Google Maps to get us to the piers from which the boats ferrying visitors leave for the islands.

    We would like to have visited all three islands, but knew that realistically, we had time for just two. Having read the descriptions, we settled on Pescatori — aka Superiore — and Bella.

    Purchasing a two-island ticket from VS for €10 each, we hopped on the small boat and sat in the aft deck for the short boat ride. The first stop was at Isola Bella, but neither we nor others with multi-island tickets were allowed to get off then. Not sure why, but we were told that we had to go first to Isola dei Pescatori … Fishermen’s Island. It was a pleasant enough ride on the Lake Maggiore, so we didn’t really mind. The bonus? We got to briefly see Isola Madre, which is further out on the lake.

    Long story short, I have to admit to a bit of disappointment with the ambiance of Pescatori … the only one of the islands that is inhabited all year round. The buildings have seemingly been converted into shops or restaurants, with advertisement signs marring much of the streetscape. Didn’t see a single fisherman anywhere.

    It’s not that we didn’t enjoy strolling around Pescatori, but it was a far cry from the charming fishing village that the description had led us to expect. I suppose if you like to browse shops or want a seafood meal, it’s a fine place. Just not what we were looking for … especially since it was too early for lunch.

    Anyway, we wandered the narrow streets, searching out photo ops … lost ourselves in the maze of back streets, and came out near the Church of San Vittore … parts of which date back to the 9th century. The frescoes in the Chapel of Santa Maria, painted by an unknown master in the 16th century, were an unexpected surprise. In the small port area, we watched grebes and ducks paddling in the water, and stopped to enjoy a small rowboat filled with colorful flowers.

    With 30 minutes to spare before the boat was due back to take us to Isola Bella, we were done exploring Isola dei Pescatori. Mui got himself an espresso at a stand-up bar, and then we found some shade on the waterfront and enjoyed the lake scenery while we waited.    Weiterlesen

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    The lakefront promenade welcomes visitors with a dancing fountain — Pallanza, Italy.
    1The dancing fountains on Lake Maggiore — Pallanza, Italy.The bell tower of St Leonard's from the waterfront — Pallanza, Italy.Houses overlooking the piazza on the waterfront — Pallanza, Italy.St Leonard's is the 16th century parish church — Pallanza, Italy.St Leonard's Church — Pallanza, Italy.St Leonard's Church — Pallanza, Italy.2Ceiling detail from one of the side chapels — St Leonard's Church — Pallanza, Italy.The dancing fountains on Lake Maggiore — Pallanza, Italy."We Were Soldiers of Italy" ... WWI Memorial — Pallanza, Italy.Mausoleo Luigi Cadorna, Chief of Staff of the Italian Army in WWI — Pallanza, Italy.Memorial to a cypress tree that was uprooted during a convective storm in August 2019 — Pallanza.A small marina along the lakefront — Pallanza, Italy.Villa Giulia ... originally built by the inventor of Fernet Branca, a famous Italian liqueur.Giardini Villa Giulia ... both the villa and the garden are owned by the city — Pallanza, Italy.Villa Giulia — Pallanza, Italy.The lakefront promenade from Giardini Villa Giulia — Pallanza, Italy.The lakefront promenade from Giardini Villa Giulia — Pallanza, Italy.Delicious dinner at Caffe delle Rose — Pallanza, Italy.

    Verbania: Exploring Pallanza

    31. Juli in Italien ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Technically, we could have walked to Pallanza, Verbania’s lakefront district. But it was still quite hot when we left the house around 4:00p. So, we drove instead. Pure luck landed us a parking spot right on the promenade overlooking Lago Maggiore … not far from the Town Hall.

    My attention was immediately caught by the dancing fountains on the lake … music in the background. Lots of colorful flowers; some statues; a WWI memorial, and a mausoleum just a few steps away. It all combined to make for a pleasant area to wander.

    Spotting the bell tower of St Leonard’s, the 16th century church that was built on the site where once a church from the 13th century stood, we wandered over to take a peek before the 6:00p mass.

    Our steps eventually took us to what was listed as a garden at Villa Giulia … originally built by the man who invented Fernet Branca, one of Italy’s famous liqueurs. There wasn’t much in the way of flowers, but manicured grounds and an expansive view of Lago Maggiore made for a peaceful spot. There was an art exhibit at the villa, but checking out the artist’s work online, we decided it wasn’t to our taste and skipped it.

    Our meander back to the town center gave Mui a chance to check restaurant ratings and menus. We settled on the Caffe delle Rose Bistrot on a side street in the centro storico ... an art-nouveau style restaurant with a retro charm described as a “… journey through time among 1920s counters, artwork, old skylights, and turn-of-the-century advertisements.” The food was delicious … the chef is the Michelin-starred Massimiliano Celeste.

    We skipped dessert at the bistro for a piccolo gelato later from a shop at the top of the street. After our sweet treat, we drove back to the apartment for an early night. We’re hoping to get out early tomorrow to avoid the worst of the traffic on the coastal road.

    ——————————————

    For those interested in the details of what we ate:

    We started out with an amuse-bouche compliments of the chef … a frothy, cold soup consisting of tomatoes, mozzarella, and basilico oil … liquid Caprese salad, if you will. I ordered the Acquerello Risotto, so named for the type of rice used … prepared a la cacio e pepe and garnished with caramelized shallots. It was a primi piatti, but perfectly sized as a main course for me. Mui ordered the grilled octopus, served on a bed of mashed potatoes, and garnished with leeks, raisins, and toasted almonds.    Weiterlesen

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