• Yulara: Field of Light Uluru

    25. April 2024 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    The “Field of Light Uluru” is an art installation by Bruce Munro, a British artist who is known for immersive large-scale light-based installations. Signage at the site describes his inspiration … in his words:

    “After visiting Uluru in 1992, an idea sprung, that grew from the ground like the small seedlings found in the desert after the rain. All of us want to connect with the sense of being part of something larger than our single lives. This connection is no more important anywhere than Uluru, an area sculpted by landscape and culture and shared memory. … It’s composed so that the viewer’s experience is from a series of random pathways through the installation, each and any pathway representing traversal through time: my past, our present, Uluru’s timeless future.”

    The installation can only be experienced on a group tour. After perusing the options at the tour center in the Town Center, we opted for the Star Pass … which included champagne/wine and canapés at the viewing platform as we awaited the sun to set and a stroll amidst the installation after nightfall.

    Pick up was scheduled from the Desert Gardens Hotel at 5:50p. It was closer to 6:00p when the bus actually showed up. Nonetheless, we arrived at the viewing area atop a small dune in time for sunset as we sipped flutes of bubbly and nibbled on the accompanying canapés. The Sunset was behind us … competing for our attention as Uluru was on the horizon in front of us.

    As night fell, the solar-powered lights and fiber optic cables came slowly alive in different colors. We were then escorted down the dune to the field for a stroll within the maze of lights … about ½-mile if you make all left turns; less than a ¼ mile if you make all right turns. We took the longer option.

    We enjoyed the colorful experience … with the full moon rising to keep us company before it was time to return to the bus for the short drive back to the resort.
    Weiterlesen

  • Yulara: Uluru … Base Walk

    25. April 2024 in Australien ⋅ 🌬 72 °F

    Part II of our 20,652-Step Day!

    Retracing our steps from the Kantju Gorge, we took a fork in the Mala Walk path to get on the Uluru Base Walk path …. described as a Grade 3, moderate, 6.6-mile full circuit.

    For a while, the dirt trail followed the paved road that one can use to drive around Uluru. Then we turned in, getting closer to the massive rock. A large part of the trail was unshaded, but we didn’t mind since the temp was cool. Other parts of the trail ran through acacia woodlands and grassy clay pans. Like the national park itself, the trail was far greener than I expected this part of Australia to be. That the pesky flies held off until the last bit of our walk was a delightful bonus.

    Uluru is impressive from a distance, but this walk makes you truly appreciate how immense it is. It also allows clear views of the pittings and scars on the rock. Uluru is not as smooth as it seems from a distance.

    Parts of the trail had signage banning photos of areas considered culturally sensitive by the local indigenous people. Visitors do not need to avert their eyes from Uluru as they walk these sections. So, why the ban? Because the Anangu believe that the sacred areas of Uluru must be viewed in situ and not in photos elsewhere around the world.

    Speaking of the traditional owners of these lands, I overheard a Segway guide explaining that the closest Anangu settlement is a little more than a mile from Uluru. It is a closed settlement that can only be visited by invitation.

    We returned to the resort around 1:00p, stopping at the Desert Gardens Hotel for lunch at the Mangata Bistro & Bar.

    With plans for an evening outing, we spent the rest of the afternoon resting our weary feet!
    Weiterlesen

  • Yulara: Uluru … Mala Walk

    25. April 2024 in Australien ⋅ 🌬 59 °F

    20,652-steps … nearly an 8-mile day. This footprint will tell the story of the 1.2-mile walk that kicked off our day.

    We were out earlier than yesterday … at 8:00a. The plan for the day called for us to drive to the Mala car park for the Base Walk around Uluru. With the high temp forecasted to reach only 76F, we figured this would be a good day for a long walk. In fact, it was 53F when we set off from the trailhead, with a strong wind adding a serious chill factor. No worries. We were comfortably bundled up for the conditions.

    The nice thing about the low temps and the wind? They kept the pesky flies at bay. In fact, it wasn’t until we were ¾’s of the way around Uluru that we had to get the fly nets out.

    Before beginning the base walk that circumnavigates Uluru, however, we detoured to the in/out Mala walk … which dead ends at Kantju Gorge.

    It would have been nice to do the Mala Walk with a ranger, but the timing did not work out. Of course, it probably was best that we didn’t do a group walk as we were able to wander at our own pace, stopping to take photos of the sheer vertical cliffs and the rock art in some of the caves. It was fascinating to see how sunlight and shade changed the colors of the rocks. And interesting to note the “scaly” nature of Uluru, which — from a distance — looks so smooth.

    The first part of the trail has several caves of significance to the Anangu people. This section was very crowded, with multiple large groups blocking the trail where the guides stopped for explanations. We are normally slow walkers, but were fleet-of-feet until we got well ahead of the groups. And then we slowed down to enjoy the area, read the signage, and explore the caves.

    Kantju Gorge, on the other hand, was peaceful … with only a few others around. We would have dallied here, taking advantage of one of the benches for some respite. But with a much longer walk ahead of us, we felt it was best to move on.

    But that story is for the next footprint …
    Weiterlesen

  • Yulara: Exploring Uluru-Kata Tjuta NP

    24. April 2024 in Australien ⋅ 🌙 72 °F

    Ten days on an expedition cruise in the Kimberleys. Two days of travel to get from Australia’s west coast to the east coast and then back to the Red Center … a convoluted routing but the only one possible within our timeframe.

    It should, therefore, come as no surprise that we both slept in this morning. Taking it easy was the plan all along, but we were later getting up than we expected. That’s OK. If the body needs rest, best to give it what it needs.

    It wasn’t until 10:00a that we left for our day of exploring the national park. I had already purchased entry passes, so we drove up to the park’s entrance, scanned our QR code at the gate, and kept going.

    Uluru is not the only high ground in the otherwise flat land that makes up this part of Australia. There is also Kata Tjuṯa. Combined, they form the national park. They have both been around 30,000 years or so … though their formation goes back some 550 million years. They are both historically and spiritually important to the Anangu, the traditional custodians of these lands … who received the deed back from the government in 1985.

    At one point, the formations had “white man names” … Ayers Rock for Uluru; The Olgas for Kata Tjuṯa. Uluru is a single sandstone monolith at nearly 1,150 feet tall. Kata Tjuṯa, which means “many heads” in Pitjantjatjara/Yankunytjatjara, consists of 36 massive red domes that cover over 12 square miles. At their highest point, the domes are 1,792 feet high.

    Perhaps because it stands alone, and is the highest such monolith in the world, Uluru has become an iconic landmark. Kata Tjuṯa, at least outside of Australia, is seldom mentioned.

    I have to admit. I didn’t ‘see’ why everyone said Uluru was a must-visit. Until I saw it in person today. “The Rock,” as it is referred to at times, is impressive in its size and breadth … some 1,150 feet tall as mentioned before … nearly 5 miles around the base … reaching down 1.5 miles below the surface. Something about it felt spiritual indeed, though I’d be hard pressed to explain why.

    Today, we did a cursory exploration of both sides of the park … starting at Uluru. Our time at Kata Tjuṯa wasn’t nearly as long as we would have liked it to be … only because it had grown too hot to wander around comfortably by the time we got there.

    We stopped at multiple pull-outs, trying our best to avoid the pesky flies that descended on us and hovered whenever we left the car. They are apparently seeking liquid, so they go for the eyes and mouth. By all accounts, what we experienced today was not particularly bad as the worst of the fly-season is on its way out. Annoying nonetheless. Thank goodness for the fly nets we brought or we likely would have thrown in the towel and left.

    With several hours left until sunset, we returned to the resort to have a late lunch at the bistro at the Sails in the Desert Hotel. By the time we had wrapped up our burger meal with a chocolate covered orange cake, it was 4:00p. Just enough time to run a few errands before returning to the Uluru sunset viewing lot for a colorful ending to our day.

    When we arrived at the designated parking lot, we found the first half of it full. Some people had already set up their chairs along the fence line to wait for the changing of colors on the face of Uluru.

    Unfortunately, sunset conditions tonight were not ideal. One minute Uluru was orange, with some differentiation in hues as the position of the sun changed. The next minute it was like someone had turned off the lights. Orange changed to dull rust. But we did get to see the full moon rise behind Uluru … and that was great.

    We left the viewing area before it got completely dark, concerned about the 9-mile drive to Yulara in the dark with kangaroos possibly in the vicinity. No ‘roos tonight, but we did see a dingo … our first one in the wild.
    Weiterlesen

  • SYD to AYQ … Sydney to Yulara

    23. April 2024 in Australien ⋅ 🌙 79 °F

    From the “teaser footprint” posted earlier today, you already know that we are in Yulara to visit Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. This is the story of the travel day that took us to Australia’s Red Center.

    We were up at 6:00a … after a good night’s rest at the Ibis. By:7:30a, we were checking out of the hotel. The autumn morning was cool. (Yes, I know it’s April, but remember … we’re in the Southern Hemisphere. It’s all topsy turvy down here.) The walk to the airport was a pleasant way to start our travel day.

    The terminal was not very chaotic. We easily found the DIY check-in machines for JetStar. Entering the details, we got our bag tags … but no boarding passes. Of course, they wanted to weigh the bags and not giving boarding passes guaranteed that we could not slip our bags onto the baggage carousel without having an agent verify we were within our limits.

    The security check point had no lines to speak of … nice. Before long we were in the food court, getting our brekky and doing our morning reading to pass the time until boarding was called.

    Our JetStar flight pushed back on time at 10:35a. It was an uneventful flight. We even got some food … just to spend the AUD $15 credit we were each given by Qantas because we purchased our tickets through them.

    As JQ660 began its descent into Yulara, the cockpit announced that Uluru would be visible on the port side of the plane … our side. We got some lovely views … and despite the dirty and scratched up portholes, I managed to get a couple of half-decent shots (already shared in the previous footprint).

    Once we deplaned, we stopped at the Avis counter to pick up our rental car. By the time we had the keys in hand, our bags were already on the carousel.

    Finding the Ayers Rock Resort was not a problem. It’s really the reason for Yulara being where it is. There is a Town Center with shops, the Gallery of Central Australia, a cinema, and a number of accommodations of various levels of luxury. All part of the town. All part of the resort.

    Since this trip is following on the heels of the Kimberley expedition, I opted for the Emu Walk Apartments which I had read had laundry facilities that we could use. Even better, the laundry facilities are en suite.

    After settling into the apartment, we walked over to the Town Center — an easy 5-minute walk. First we checked out the tour center. After perusing the offerings, we decided to DIY explore Uluru-Kata Tjuta since we have our own wheels. The one exception we made was for the Field of Light art installation. It can only be visited on a group tour.

    Next we stopped at the supermarket for groceries to self-cater breakfast and maybe a few other meals. Tonight, however, we ate out at the Mangata Bistro & Bar at the Desert Garden Hotel … a five-minute walk from the apartment … in the opposite direction from the Town Center.

    We wrapped up the day with a quick sunset view from a lookout on the way back to the apartment. Will have to do some recon on the other lookouts and see if they offer better views.
    Weiterlesen

  • Yulara: Uluru … The Rock

    23. April 2024 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Another skip-ahead post to let everyone know that all’s well as we continue to count down the final days of our adventures Down Under.

    Following our expedition cruise through The Kimberleys — which was great, I might add — we flew from Broome to Perth to Sydney to Yulara. The latter is the service town for the iconic Uluru … once known as Ayers Rock.

    Our flight path into Yulara afforded us an aerial glimpse of Uluru, whetting our appetite for the up-close and personal exploration we hope to do over the next four days.

    More to come …
    Weiterlesen

  • BRE to SYD … Broome to Sydney

    22. April 2024 in Australien ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

    The daily program we received last night advised us that breakfast would be at 8:00a today. Coral Discoverer was expected to pick up the pilot while we were having our brekky and would be alongside in Broome by 9:30a. That was ship’s time, of course … still on Northern Territory time. We’d be gaining 1.5 hours as soon as we stepped off the ship. Much better for our 10:55a flight to Perth.

    All went according to plan. We were at the airport by 8:30a local time.

    Broome has a small airport and it was pretty much dead when the transfer bus dropped us off at the terminal … along with Captain Peter and a few others. The counters were not due to open until 9:15a. So, we put our bags in the check-in queue and settled down to wait. Once the staff arrived, dropping off our bags was quick and easy since we’d already checked in online.

    The departure of our QantasLink flight was delayed by 20 minutes or so. That added a bit of stress to our travel day since the 55 minutes we had to make our connecting flight from Perth to Sydney was shrinking with each minute of delay. The good news is that all went well and we made the flight with a bit of time to spare.

    The 4-hour flight to SYD was delayed as well. This one by 10 minutes. Otherwise, it was an uneventful flight, arriving at SYD a few minutes later than our scheduled 8:30p touch down. By the time we got to baggage claim, our checked bags were already on the carousel. After collecting them, we set off for our hotel.

    With a flight to Yulara tomorrow, I opted to book us into the Ibis, one of several budget hotels not too far from the domestic terminal. Since we’d been sitting pretty much all day, we opted to walk the 10-12 minutes it takes to get to the hotel. At check-in, we were assigned to a quiet room on the 6th floor. As might be expected from a budget hotel, our accommodations were of the “no frills” variety. Clean bedding and facilities … that’s all we needed … that’s all we got.

    Now for a good night’s rest before we hop on the flight to Yulara tomorrow.
    Weiterlesen

  • Kimberley Expedition: Final Day

    21. April 2024 in Australien ⋅ 🌙 84 °F

    Our final destination of the expedition was the Lacepede Islands. To get there, Coral Discoverer left the protected inland waterways for open waters … a rockin’ and rollin’ kind of transit overnight that lasted well into today. So much so that we wondered if we would be able to even stop at the Lacepedes as planned.

    Our morning on the ship was a quiet one, allowing me some much needed “introvert battery charging time.” There was a trivia session after breakfast, but we skipped it. Using the time, instead, to pack our checked bags for tomorrow’s flights.

    Our Lacepedes outing was scheduled for noon, so lunch was at 11:00a. About half an hour into our meal, Katie announced that we would be delaying a bit to let the wind die down further. The seas had already moderated quite a bit, so we kept our fingers crossed the wind would follow suit. It did.

    Around 12:15p, we got the 15-minute call to present ourselves at the Xplorer. Yay! Expecting that the ride across to the Lacepedes would be a splashy one, the clear plastic window covers had been brought down on the port side of the boat. The good news is that the ride wasn’t very splashy, and once we got to the islands, the covers were rolled back up to give us better viewing.

    The Lacepedes are a series of low-lying islands known for having the world’s largest colony of brown boobies … 18,000 breeding pairs. Other species also nest here, but today it was all about the brown boobies. We’d been seeing them flying about all day, so I was excited to see them onshore. The Xplorer found an opening to get us into the calmer waters of the lagoon and we cruised along the shoreline to see what we could see.

    Once the zodiacs arrived, we then went for a closer look. Unfortunately, with the delayed departure, the tide was already going out and even the zodiacs were having trouble approaching the shoreline. Nonetheless, we got to see quite a bit of the abundant birdlife. In addition to the brown boobies, we saw sooty oystercatchers, terns, gulls, and a small flock of Australian pelicans. The lesser frigatebirds joined the fray in the skies above us, their distinctive shape making it easy to identify them.

    There were critters to see in the water as well … primarily, green sea turtles and a lightning-fast shovelnose ray that came around twice to take a look at us before zooming away.

    Everyone did get a chance to go out in the zodiacs, but our Xplorer driver was keeping a close eye on the depth of the lagoon and was a little antsy. Understandable. If we didn’t manage to get out of the lagoon before the depth became too low for the boat, we’d be stuck until high tide. The good news is that we didn’t — get stuck, that is — and even managed another cruise along the shoreline before finally returning to the Coral Discoverer.

    We were back in time for afternoon tea … to tide us over between lunch and dinner. And then we had the afternoon to relax until it was time for the photo-recap of the expedition. The photos Sara used for the slideshow were all taken by members of the expedition team … a good overview of our 10-day experience. We will be sent a link to download the photos and add them to our own collections.

    The photo-recap led to the Captain’s Farewell Cocktail Party on the open deck aft of the Bridge Lounge. Then downstairs to partake of one last dinner on the ship.

    Tomorrow we disembark Coral Discoverer.

    (With limited zoom reach for bird photos, I mostly took videos during today’s outing. The files are too big to upload here. If interested, here are some links you can use to watch the videos online … (1) from the Xplorer: https://eenusa.smugmug.com/Oceania/AUS23-24/KIM…; (2) from the zodiac: https://eenusa.smugmug.com/Oceania/AUS23-24/KIM….)
    Weiterlesen

  • Kimberley Expedition: Day 9

    20. April 2024, Indian Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 93 °F

    Following breakfast at 7:30a, we departed for a scenic cruise on the Xplorer … heading to the upper waterways of Talbot Bay … with a short detour first to Horizontal Falls to see it as the tide was coming in.

    Making our way up Cyclone Creek — aka Talbot Creek — we saw some interesting rock formations. Clearly evident was the bending and folding of the rocks from the collision of the ancient Kimberley block with the Australian mainland. We also saw rock wallabies from a distance … further away than the one we saw hopping on the rocks at lightning speed; and a bird that we were told is rarely seen … the white-quilled rock pigeon. There were a number of them flying around, but one was near a bit of spinifex and posed for us. I’m wondering if it might have been sitting on a nest that was not visible from our vantage point. We wrapped up the outing with some mangrove cruising.

    After lunch, we had some time to relax before it was time to hop into the zodiacs for ride through Horizontal Falls.

    Katie had whispered that around 4:00p would be the best time to go, so that’s what we had signed up for. We set off a bit after the appointed time. The “falls” were more like rapids one might encounter on river rafting. There were lots of whirlpools and eddies that our zodiac driver expertly negotiated. It was interesting and fun, but not the “thrill ride” we were told to expect. Though not an option on our cruise, perhaps seeing Horizontal Falls from the air might afford a more exciting experience.

    Frankly, this wasn’t a “favorite” day for me. Perhaps, introvert that I am, I just need some downtime from being around people all the time.
    Weiterlesen

  • Kimberley Expedition: Day 8 (Afternoon)

    19. April 2024, Indian Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    Our afternoon visit was to Montgomery Reef, which is perched atop a 1,800 million year old Pentecost sandstone and dolomite mesa with an approximately 12,000 year old marine veneer ringed by rhodolith banks. The mesa was submerged some 6,000 years ago when the sea rose to its present level. One of the world’s natural wonders, the 154 square mile reef is the world’s largest “inshore reef.”

    This outing was tide-dependent, so our departure was delayed by an hour to give us a better chance of seeing the reef rise out of the sea as the tide ebbed off it in cataracts.

    Though we went out to the reef in the Xplorer, the zodiacs accompanied us to give us a closer look at the phenomenon. As well as seeing the lagoon empty into the ocean as the reef rose out of the water, we caught glimpses of sea turtles peeping out of the water for a quick breath of air. There were also sharks hunting inside the reef … saw the tips of their fins. Birds — particularly reef egrets — were fairly abundant, but extremely shy. Our best sighting was of a sea snake — its white skin clearly visible against the darker water

    Returning to the Coral Discoverer, we had just enough time to drop off our stuff in the cabin before the announcement came for a wine tasting event in the Bridge Deck Lounge. Josh, the purser, ran the event. We sipped one New Zealand wine … a Sauvignon Blanc; and two reds … one a Pinot Noir from Tasmania and the other a Cabernet Sauvignon from South Australia. Each wine was accompanied by a canapé to demonstrate how the right food pairing can impact the experience.

    Dinner was at 6:30p … followed by a romantic comedy set in the Northern Territory … “Top End Wedding.” Ready for some downtime, we skipped it. We’ll see if we can find it on Netflix or You Tube when we get home.
    Weiterlesen

  • Kimberley Expedition: Day 8 (Morning)

    19. April 2024 in Australien ⋅ ⛅ 90 °F

    An especially lovely sunrise in Doubtful Bay, where the Coral Discoverer was anchored … followed by breakfast at 7:00a. Then we were off on the Xplorer at 8:00a.

    A walk on Raft Point Beach was first up. The name of the headland comes from recordings by Australian explorers describing how local Worrorra people, using rafts made of Kapok mangrove trunks, rode the treacherous tides 12 nautical miles offshore to Montgomery Reef to gather marine resources before riding the tide back ashore.

    We did a little beach combing, which yielded the remains — mostly the shell — of what Anne identified as an immature green sea turtle; some beach morning glories; seashells galore. The cliffs were colorful and provided some interesting photo ops and a chance to do some clambering on and around them.

    After boarding the Xplorer again, we went for a cruise, stopping at a few different places to check out the views and a sea cave on Steep Island. We wrapped up with a cruise through the mangroves, looking for birds and crocodiles … saw some of the former, but came up empty handed on the latter.

    When we returned to the ship, we had not one but two presentations. The first one was given by Geraldine, a fellow passenger. Her topic was entitled “Geraldine’s Story” … but technically she spoke about an airplane crash in the Kimberley in which her father was involved while evacuating a family fleeing the Japanese onslaught from Singapore. Happy ending with everyone being rescued.

    Anne’s presentation was entitled “Culture & Kinship.” As might be expected, the focus was on the Aboriginal culture. The kinship portion was fascinating and gave us a small insight into the complicated kinship system and skin names … which has existed for thousands of years in the world’s longest living culture.
    Weiterlesen

  • Kimberley Expedition: Day 7 (Afternoon)

    18. April 2024 in Australien ⋅ ⛅ 95 °F

    Once we returned from our Prince Regent River cruise, we had about an hour of downtime before lunch. And another hour after lunch while the Coral Discoverer repositioned to Careening Bay. Bridge and engine room tours were conducted during that time, but we had already done both, so R&R was the name of the game for us.

    Careening Bay is part of the Prince Regent Nature Reserve. The bay was so named because Philip Parker King, an Australian explorer, careened his vessel, the HMC Mermaid, here for repairs in 1820 … during his first expedition into the region. [HMC, by the way, stands for His Majesty’s Cutter.)

    Apparently, this is a very popular site for expedition vessels of all sizes. Thus, great care is taken to ensure that ship visits do not overlap. In fact, Coral Discoverer arrived at its anchorage right around 2:30p to find Ponant’s Le Perouse leaving.

    A short ride on the Xplorer took us ashore to see the historic Mermaid Tree, a National Heritage-listed boab. What makes the tree so important is the fact that the crew of the HMC Mermaid carved the ship’s name and the year of their visit on the boab. The tree has since split into two. Thus dividing the carving as well. But the deep inscriptions are still clearly visible.

    We’d been split into two groups for this lading. Mui and I were in the first group going directly to the tree. Then, as the other group made its way to the tree, we took a roundabout trail back to the beach, stopping to search for — and find — not one, but two bowerbird bowers. Apparently the male bowerbird is quite an engineer, building a bachelor pad of sorts to attract females … using scavenged twigs, brightly colored stones, fresh flowers, iridescent insects, and more. There are two “courtyards” as well … for mating displays. Very interesting.

    Back on the beach, we crossed to the far side to check out some vegetation unique to the area. The ancient cycads, we were told, exist on this Carson volcanic basalt site because it has more minerals and nutrients than sandstone, and allows for the growth of different vegetation.

    Our outing was a fairly short one that we concluded with a cruise along the shoreline before returning to Coral Discoverer.
    Weiterlesen

  • Kimberley Expedition: Day 7 (Morning)

    18. April 2024 in Australien ⋅ 🌬 88 °F

    Early start to our day once more … though not as early as yesterday. Breakfast was at 6:30a and we left on the Xplorer at 7:30a.

    Our destination today was a ways up the Prince Regent River … a body of water that is 2 km wide at the mouth. The river follows an ancient fault-aligned valley that was flooded with sea water when the sea level rose after the end of the last ice age. As a result, unlike most rivers, it does not meander. Rather, it flows straight as an arrow from its headwaters … some 60+ miles.

    We did indeed cruise much of the way in a straight line. But further up the river, we meandered left and right to avoid the sandbars that shift during the Wet. In fact, we were told that though the river is wide, the navigable channel is quite narrow.

    We made a few stops for Steve and Anne to point out connections to an explorer named Philip Parker King, but aside from that there really wasn’t much to see along the way. Nonetheless, it was a pleasant high-speed cruise … and quite comfortable temperature-wise … even after the sun broke through the clouds.

    Our destination was Mambulbada — known to the white settlers of yore and most people today as King Cascade … for Phillip Parker King. By the way, he was the one to name the river for the Prince Regent at the time, but unbeknownst to him, the Prince Regent had already been crowned King George IV.

    The cascade, situated in a small cove, was spectacular. Not a single waterfall, but several smaller ones plunging over terraced rocks. We were able to get into the plunge basin and take our photos. And then we were served tea/coffee and muffins. The carrot cake muffin, topped with a generous amount of cream cheese frosting, was especially delicious.

    Once Sara arrived with our safety zodiac, the Xplorer nosed up to one of the smaller cascades. The front gangway was lowered onto a rock ledge and those who wanted to stepped out for a chilly shower. We didn’t partake of this activity, but our feet did get wet from the water flowing inside from the gangway. And there was plenty of mist swirling in the air to keep us “glistening.”

    We were zooming back down the river to where Coral Discoverer was waiting for us in the St Georges Basin when Sara radioed about a couple of estuarine crocs in a side channel. So, Logan (our Xplorer driver) took us into the mangroves for a look-see.

    The first croc was shy and didn’t stick around for long. But the bigger one — Steve said about 10 feet long if a female; about 12 feet long if a male — was curious and swam up to the Xplorer to check us out for a while before swimming away.

    A thrilling morning adventure … which concluded with a sighting of a pod of snubfin dolphins, a species endemic to Australia, playing near the Coral Discoverer.
    Weiterlesen

  • Kimberley Expedition: Day 6 (Afternoon)

    17. April 2024 in Australien ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    Following our Porosus Creek cruise, we had a short bit of time to relax and have lunch aboard the Coral Discoverer. Then, we were off again … this time for a landing on Wandjina Island.

    It was once again a very hot afternoon on a beach with very little shade.

    This was our last chance to see Aboriginal rock art. We were told that there were two galleries … one an easy walk a short ways up from the beach; the other one further up and requiring a rock scramble. As it turns out, no one could find the trail to the second site — overgrown and hidden by the wet season growth — so we had a shorter outing.

    The two figures at the easy site were painted under a ledge. The team put down towels as we had to lie down to see the figures. Only two people at a time. The rest of us squeezed in along the cliff where there was a sliver of shade and waited our turn.

    From the gallery, we walked to the other side of the beach. Finding the small cave that we were told led to a gorge, I decided to check it out. Had to scramble through on my hands and knees. Once I got through, there was no apparent trail, so I turned right back around.

    As we did yesterday, rather than wait around on the hot beach, some of us returned to the Xplorer, which was called back from where it was waiting offshore. There were more people today than yesterday who joined us in the shade … and refreshing breeze. After the remaining passengers boarded the Xplorer, we took a short cruise around the island, looking for critters … an osprey sitting on a huge nest was our reward.

    Almost immediately after we returned to the Discoverer, the announcement was made for Steve’s presentation on “Phillip Parker Who?” He is apparently one of Australia’s best but least known explorers. We skipped it … too drained to sit through a presentation … rested up instead. I’ll look him up on the web.

    Dinner tonight was a barbecue on the sundeck. A fun al fresco meal … with sunset adding color to the sky as the evening progressed. That we’ve had some exceptional sunrises and sunsets has been an unexpected bonus of this expedition.

    Tonight was game night up in the bridge deck lounge. With a 6:30a breakfast looming ahead for tomorrow, we opted out.
    Weiterlesen

  • Kimberley Expedition: Day 6 (Morning)

    17. April 2024 in Australien ⋅ ⛅ 90 °F

    After breakfast, we went off in the Xplorer again … this time up the Porosus Creek. We were accompanied by the two zodiacs that later took us on 20-minute rides for a closer glimpse of the mudskippers and flame fiddler crabs. The bonus was a couple of Brahminy kites.

    We had our best wildlife sightings from the Xplorer, however. First was a chestnut rail … which Guest Lecturer Anne described as being a “lifer species” as they are very shy and very difficult to see. Another sighting was an eagle ray. We’ve seen a couple of them flying out of the water — something they apparently do to get rid of the little fish that “clean” them — but this one was close enough to see the spots.

    The primary target of this cruise on the Porosus Creek was Crocodylus Porosus … a species of salties (aka estuarine or salt water crocodiles) found in these waters. They are the largest living reptile and the largest terrestrial predator in the world … with at least one male recorded at a little over 23 feet.

    Although we’d been hearing frequent warnings about the Kimberley waters being home to crocodiles — and thus dangerous to swim — we had yet to see any. That changed today. We saw two of them … a small one about 5 feet long and an adult that was twice as long. Male or female? No idea. Both were swimming, so we have yet to see these critters sunning themselves. And likely will not do so as the water is still warm enough that the crocs don’t feel the need to leave their domain to warm up.

    A delightful cruise with beautiful scenery and plenty of wildlife sightings.
    Weiterlesen

  • Kimberley Expedition: Day 6 (Sunrise)

    17. April 2024 in Australien ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    A very early but spectacular start to the day!

    After a “tide-you-over-for-now” continental breakfast, we were off in the Xplorer at 6:30a for a sunrise cruise that took us from Prince Fredrick Harbour into Hunter River.

    It was lovely … with cool temps. And amazing color. One of the interesting things was the difference in the colors looking east versus west.

    The apple and kapok mangroves silhouetted against the orange hued sky made for some spectacular photos. I expected the escarpments around us to glow with the rising of the sun. The color indeed deepened to a reddish-orange, but the glow was missing. Beautiful and special nonetheless.

    We returned to Coral Discoverer around 7:30a to find the usual sit-down breakfast awaiting us hungry explorers.
    Weiterlesen

  • Kimberley Expedition: Day 5 (Afternoon)

    16. April 2024 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    After lunch, we hopped in the Xplorer to visit a rock art gallery on Bigge Island.

    But before seeing the art, we stood around some big indentations in the sand, which Steve explained were marine turtle nests … most empty, but a couple of others obviously active because they had been covered up.

    The art we saw was of the Kaiara Sea Wandjina who came from the northwest … out of the clouds and sky. They are the creators and fertility spirits. This rock art continues to be fascinating. There were also some hand-stencil art, and what are thought to be Asian and European contact art … from when the Aboriginals encountered others from around the world.

    The outing included beach combing and a walk along the top of an escarpment. But some of us opted to go back to the Xplorer instead as the broiling heat was really not conducive to either activity.

    Corey, our Xplorer driver today, offered to return us to the Coral Discoverer. But we were all happy to just float and enjoy the shade and the breeze. So, he took us on a slow cruise instead, which yielded encounters with an osprey; a reef egret; and a wedge-tailed eagle.

    The original plan called for a 4:00p return to the ship. Since we were aboard by 3:30p, Steve gave his “Croc” presentation this afternoon … very timely as we will be looking for crocodiles tomorrow. One of the takeaways was the comparison of the bite force in pounds per inch of the top ten animals … the top three being the American alligator (2,125 psi); salt water crocodile (3,700 psi); and the Nile crocodile (5,000 psi). By the way … the human bite is just 162 psi!

    Another colorful sunset and a delicious dinner wrapped up our day … the halfway point of our expedition.
    Weiterlesen

  • Kimberley Expedition: Day 5 (Morning)

    16. April 2024 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Hot, Hot, Hot!

    No sense belaboring the point, however … it’s not going to cool things off.

    We were up early enough to enjoy the sunrise once again … colorful … and with the addition of frigatebirds soaring on the thermal currents. Anne later said that they were lesser frigatebirds.

    Our first outing today was at 8:30a. It was a two-parter … both on Bigge Island.

    First, we took the Xplorer to a small beach to visit Cathedral Cave … accessible only during a very small tidal window. It was obvious the tide had only recently gone out as our steps sank deep once we disembarked onto the beach. The cave is a stunning natural amphitheater carved out of the sandstone by thousands of years of wave erosion.

    Hopping in the Xplorer again, we next crossed the cove to another beach for a bit of beach-combing. We were hoping to see some animals. Alas only caught glimpses of quoll, monjon, and croc prints in the sand.

    Returning to the Coral Discoverer mid-morning, we had just enough time to freshen up before heading to the Bridge Deck Lounge for Anne’s lecture about Indigenous art and craft.
    Weiterlesen

  • Kimberley Expedition: Day 4 (Sundowners)

    15. April 2024 in Australien ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    After a day of exploration and crawling around a rock art gallery, it was time for a bit of fun on the beach. No swimming … there are crocs and sharks in these waters. Instead, we were invited to go ashore for sundowners … drinks & snacks & a colorful sunset.

    At 5:30p, we set off in the Xplorer. With the Coral Discoverer at anchor right across from Veranda Beach, the ride was very short.

    The crew had set up chairs in three rows … facing the sea for sunset. Drinks and appetizers were set up under a tent. It was a pleasant evening. Mui and I even snuck in a walk to the far end of the beach to do a bit of beach combing.

    We returned to the ship at 7:00p. The post-dinner activity was a movie tonight — Red Dog … sort of Lassie meets Rin Tin Tin, we were told. We skipped it. With another early morning scheduled, we felt it was best to rest up.
    Weiterlesen

  • Kimberley Expedition: Day 4 (Afternoon)

    15. April 2024 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    Lunch today was at 12:30p. And then we had about 30 minutes before we set off on our afternoon outing.

    A 20-minute, high-speed ride on the Xplorer took us from the Coral Discoverer to an island in Wollaston Bay to see some more ancient rock art … this time newer Wandjina art … estimated to date back some 4,000 years.

    Wandjina is a powerful Rain Maker spirit. Dreamtime images painted in rock galleries and caves can be found throughout the Kimberleys. Often painted in red and white ochre, these figures have significant cultural and spiritual importance to the Aboriginal people. In fact, the paintings are repainted periodically — by Aboriginal men authorized to do so — in order to keep the art fresh. The figure we saw today has not been painted in quite some time.

    The landing had the possibility of being wet, but the gangway managed to reach the beach, so once again we did not get wet. The climb to get to the rock art site was described as moderate. More of a rock scramble to start out. Expedition team members lined up along the boulders to assist with monkey grips.

    From the staging area, we followed a flat, sandy path through waist- to shoulder-high vegetation. The site itself was breathtaking, the more complex art quite vivid in places. Some of it was on the side of a cliff, protected by a ledge; others required hunching over quite a bit to enter a cave and lay down on our backs to view the ones on the ceiling. Anne pointed out one painting that she thought was of a thylacine … the Tasmanian tiger that has gone extinct ages ago. The similarity to photos we’ve seen of the animal was quite uncanny.

    When we returned to the landing beach, the idea was to do some beach combing. It was too hot to do so, however. Most of us lined up near the rocks, seeking respite in the narrow strip of shade we found there, guzzling water as fast as we could.

    So, Katie called the Xplorer to pick us up early and took us for a scenic drive through the mangroves, looking for birds and crocodiles. Found neither. Though we did catch a glimpse of some Gwion Gwion figures painted on a ledge high up on a rock wall.

    By 4:15p, we were back on Coral Discoverer for a bit of a break before our evening outing to a beach nearby.
    Weiterlesen

  • Kimberley Expedition: Day 4 (Morning)

    15. April 2024, Indian Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Breakfast time has been getting earlier and earlier.

    We have moved from 8:00a to 7:30a to 7:00a over the past few days. The early breakfast today was driven by the helicopter excursion to Mitchell Falls … an optional outing that we decided to skip because we’re still babying my recent vertigo episode.

    While those who signed up for the falls were transferred out in groups of eight, the rest of us went for a cruise on the Xplorer. We motored around the islands of Montague Sound and went into Hathaway’s Bay. There were interesting rock formations to see, including a Hart Dolerite intrusion through Wunaamin Miliwundi. Despite’s Anne’s lecture, the geology is still Greek to us. Though, in this instance, the chocolate colored dolerite was clearly different from the cream and red bands of rock that dominate the area.

    Along the way, we stopped to check out ancient palms that are endemic to the Kimberleys. We also spotted sooty oystercatchers, a pair of ospreys on a nest, and at least one eastern reef egret. As we followed the coastline, Anne pointed out middens that are evidence of the long occupation of the area by the ancient inhabitants of the land. We wrapped up the outing with a slow cruise along the mangroves, looking for crocs. No luck alas.

    We returned to the Coral Discoverer a little after 9:30a … had a bit of time to rest up and grab a cup of tea. And then it was time for the engine room tour, led by Sam, the Second Engineer. He told us a bit about what we would be seeing in the engine room while we were still in the dining room where our group met. The briefing was essential since the engine room is very noisy and we’d be wearing ear protectors in there. He also warned us that even with only one engine running while we are at anchor, it would be hot … 38-39C. Whew!

    After checking out the engine room, we went into the mechanical room where the A/C; water making system; and black and grey tank systems are located … amongst a whole bunch of other machinery. I found the intake vent bringing air in from the outside and enjoyed the cooler air as Sam answered questions here since it was slightly quieter in this room.

    With our engine tour over by 11:00, I went upstairs to the Sun Deck to do some writing and enjoy the slight breeze.
    Weiterlesen

  • Kimberley Expedition: Day 3 (Afternoon)

    14. April 2024 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    Returning to the Coral Discoverer for lunch, we didn’t have much time to relax before we found ourselves back in the Xplorer.

    Our destination this time was the wreck of a C-53 Sky Trooper on the Anjo Peninsula. The aircraft, which crash landed here in 1942, is the cargo version of the DC3 aircraft.

    Once again, we were told to prepare for a wet landing, but got a dry one right onto the beach. We arrived as the tide was just coming in across the salt pans beyond the small dune we had to negotiate. This was a boon because we didn’t have to make the long trek across the white-sand beach that was reflecting the sun right back at us to go around the salt pans. Instead, we crossed to the woodlands, walking through ankle-deep water … stopping to check out the hermit crabs where the land was still dry.

    On reaching the site of the wreck, the expedition team held everyone back so we could all get people-free photos of the site. Steve then gathered us in a semicircle around the edge of the wreck and told us about the wreckage and how it got to be here.

    The story goes that there was no navigator onboard the C-53 and the aircraft lost its way in bad weather. Running out of fuel, the young pilot — an American — was forced to make an emergency landing in the savanna woodlands that cover most of the area. The story ends well. All onboard survived and they were rescued a few days later by a Qantas flying boat.

    We were next split into two groups … one exploring the wreck site; the other walking off to look for birds. When we swapped places, we didn’t see any birds, but the melodious song of the butcher bird sounded periodically. Nor did we glimpse the agile wallaby the other group saw. We did spot a feral cattle sitting in the shade, and a ton more hermit crabs.

    By the time we were ready to cross the salt pans again, they were covered with water too deep to wade through. So, we had to trek through the bush in a wide circle to get back to the beach … part of the walk through prickly grasses that made us happy that we had opted for long pants despite the heat.

    On returning to the vessel, we had a short respite before it was time for Steve’s presentation, “Jewels of the Top End” … a talk about the flora and fauna of the Kimberleys. Any other time, I would have been front row-center, but the hot and humid hike this afternoon was just too draining. In fact, not only did we skip the lecture, we skipped drinks on the Sundeck and the documentary after dinner.
    Weiterlesen

  • Kimberley Expedition: Day 3 (Morning)

    14. April 2024 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    Today we had our first experience with Aboriginal Rock Art … estimated to be around 10,000 to 20,000 years old!

    After breakfast, we gathered up our stuff and headed off on the Xplorer for a landing on Jar Island … in Vansittart Bay. The Island was so named in 1819 for Macassan pottery shards that were found here. Nowadays it is best known for the three easily accessible Gwion Gwion (sometimes spelled Giyorn Giyorn) rock art sites.

    Gwion Gwion (aka Bradshaw) rock paintings are one of the two traditions of the Kimberleys. The paintings have been categorized into two styles. These are not the earliest Aboriginal paintings … hope to see some of those at other sites.

    We were told there was the possibility that this would be a wet landing so we went prepared for that. As it turns out, the tide was out so the gangway was deployed onto the beach and we didn’t have to get our feet wet. Hiking across the sand, we followed a narrow path through the grass … some of it prickly.

    Following eroded rock plates, we eventually came to an area where we were split into two groups … one set doing the easy and hard walks; the other set doing the moderate walk. And then we swapped places. Mui and I opted to do the easy-hard first.

    True, we had to clamber over rocks and squeeze through some narrow paths between boulders on the way to the “art gallery.” And once we got there, we had to lie down on rocks and squirm around a bit to see some of the art painted on the bottom of protected ledges. Nonetheless, I’d be hard pressed to consider the hike a “hard” one.

    After swapping places with the other group, we trekked to the moderate site, which, by far had some of the best rock art … though some of them were particularly hard to photograph.

    We wrapped up the outing with a cruise around Jar Island, checking out some of the interesting formations and using our imagination to find dragons and toads.
    Weiterlesen

  • Kimberley Expedition: Day 2 (Afternoon)

    13. April 2024 in Australien ⋅ 🌬 91 °F

    After lunch, we went off on our first Xplorer cruise.

    The Xplorer is an aluminum boat that is like a mini military landing craft. It has a shallow draft and can get into reasonably shallow waters after the outboard engines are pulled up. A small gangway folds down from the squared off bow for easy disembarkation from the boat. No disembarkation today, however, as this outing was a scenic cruise, with an opportunity to get wet by transferring to the zodiacs that accompanied us.

    Coral Discoverer has one Xplorer, which is carried on a platform on the stern of the ship. There is an ingenious winching system that raises and lowers the boat from the Main Deck, where passengers board, to the water level.

    (I’m not sure I mentioned that there are only 44 paying-guests on the Discoverer on this expedition, so we’re able to spread out on the Xplorer more than usual.)

    We had a fairly long ride through Koolama Bay to the mouth of King George River — which is hidden from view until you are right in front of it. As a result, the river remained unseen by early seafaring explorers who came to Australia. Though Aboriginal people knew about the river, it wasn’t until 1911 that the white man first recorded this feature of The Kimberleys.

    On our way to the river, we made a few stops for Anne and Steve, our guest lecturers, to speak to us about what we were seeing. In Anne’s case, she pointed out some of the geology that makes the area special. In Steve’s case, he told us about the Koolama Incident, which involved the WWII bombing of a ship by that name … by Japanese zeros. The expedition team as a group pointed out interesting birdlife along the way … osprey, Brahminy kite, eastern reef egret; crested tern.

    Once at the mouth of the King George River — named in honor of the coronation of King George V — we cruised into what is essentially a gorge with towering red sandstone cliffs stained black by algae. Known as the Warton Sandstone, this layer is some of the oldest rocks on earth … dating back some 1.8 billion years. Precariously perched rocks and weathering of the cliff face added additional interest to the layered rocks. As did colorful honeycombed rocks known as tafoni.

    The highlight of our outing was Oomari Falls … often referred to as King George Falls. The twin falls are located at the head of the river. Like the mouth of the river, the falls remain hidden from view until you are practically upon them. You can hear them well before you can see them.

    An amazing sight … especially this time of the year when the water flow is high following the recently ended wet season. In fact, our cruise to the Kimberleys is the first of the season because this is not an area that can be explored “pleasantly” prior to the end of The Wet.

    Those who wanted to feel the power of the falls up close and personal were invited to transfer to zodiacs for a ride into the cataracts. We were happy to cool off with the mist carried on the air.

    An excellent first look at the hidden landscape treasures of the Kimberleys.

    Returning to the Coral Discoverer, we had ½ hour to rest before we were “invited” to the Sundeck Bar for drinks. And then it was time for dinner and a movie … the latter, a documentary entitled “Malice or Mutiny” … telling the story of the Koolama Incident Steve had told us about. (Too long to share it here, but if interested, you can read about it at this link … https://museum.wa.gov.au/maritime-archaeology-d….)

    Early call tomorrow … time to rest up.
    Weiterlesen

  • Kimberley Expedition: Day 2 (Morning)

    13. April 2024, Timor Sea ⋅ 🌬 86 °F

    We had an unusual start to our day … an uncommon occurrence on an expedition!

    We got to sleep in this morning as breakfast was at 8:00a! All because the schedule was turned on its head due to the delay leaving Darwin yesterday. When I rolled out of bed around 7:00a, Coral Discoverer was still sailing through the Joeseph Bonaparte Gulf … heading towards Koolama Bay for today’s off-ship Xplorer activity at King George River.

    After breakfast, we went on a tour of the bridge. Well, tour is a bit of an exaggeration, since the bridge on this 70-pax vessel is quite small. But our group of 10 squeezed into the space and Captain Josh explained about the instrumentation while Captain Peter, who will be taking over for the next expedition leaving from Darwin, was manning the helm as part of his familiarization training in these waters.

    Next up, Anne gave a lecture entitled “The Making of The Kimberley’s Coastal Sculptures.” She made use of a multi-layered sandwich to demonstrate how the rocks were shaped by the movement of the tectonic plates … the bread slices representing the hard rocks and the peanut butter and Vegemite representing the softer rocks. Her lecture also briefly delved into the Aboriginal creation ancestors — The Wandjina. We hope to see some of the art she showed us later during this expedition.

    I actually think it was good that today’s schedule was flip-flopped … moving the lecture to the morning. This allowed us to get a better grasp of the formation of the landscape we would be exploring this afternoon. And it underscored that we are in a region with some of the oldest rocks on earth … dating back some 1.8 BILLION YEARS … a number that is hard for me to wrap my head around.

    By the time we were finished with lunch, it was time for us to prep for our afternoon outing.
    Weiterlesen

  • Kimberley Expedition: Day 1

    12. April 2024, Timor Sea ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    What is The Kimberleys?

    It is the region in the far northwest corner of Australia … often described as the Earth’s last true wilderness area. It is the part of Western Australia that has rock formations that date back billions of years. It is an area of stunning natural landscapes … ancient Aboriginal rock art … wildlife … and more. It is one of the parts of Australia that had the earliest settlements … with the first humans going back some 65,000 years.

    We will get to experience a tiny piece of all this during our 10-day expedition. And it all started with boarding our expedition vessel — Coral Discoverer — around 8:00a at Darwin’s Fort Hill Wharf.

    Once onboard, we were directed to the dining room where tea/coffee/scones were set up. We were then invited to check-in to our cabin. B21 — our cabin — was easy to find. Go up one set of stairs to the Promenade Deck and walk all the way to the aft. The cabin is comfortable … if basic. We are next to the access door to the aft promenade deck, which I expect we’ll be making good use of to get around the ship.

    Due to an issue with one of the cranes used to load/unload the zodiacs, we were not on the move until 10:00a. Even then, Coral Discoverer just sailed out to an anchorage in Darwin Harbour to continue the repair work. The good news? The delayed departure won’t impact tomorrow’s plans … except for flip-flopping activities ... lectures in the morning; off-ship exploration in the afternoon.

    As has been our experience on other expeditions, our day was a busy one … settling into the cabin; exploring the public decks to acquaint ourselves with the vessel’s layout; taking advantage of the open bridge policy for a visit and chat with the Duty Officer; attending the muster drill and the mandatory safety briefing … followed by the expedition briefing by Katie, our Expedition Leader (EL). And that was all before lunch.

    By the time lunch was over, Coral Discoverer was on its way for real, heading out to the Timor Sea.

    After a break of about an hour, the afternoon activities picked up … a helicopter briefing for those wanting to book the optional outing to Mitchell Falls (we’re taking a pass … don’t want to risk triggering my vertigo); an introductory lecture about the Top End and The Kimberleys. And then it was time for Captain Josh’s Welcome Drinks … followed by dinner. But wait. We weren’t done for the day. After our meal, The Kimberley episode from the BBC Coast series was screened in the Bridge Deck Lounge. A good way to wrap up the first day of the expedition.

    Time to turn in for the night. We’ve been told that the forecast is looking good for our trip and Coral Discoverer should not be dancing much as we make our way from the Timor Sea to the Indian Ocean.
    Weiterlesen

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