• Welcome to Muscat, Oman

    24. huhtikuuta 2023, Oman ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    As a friend likes to say, today we “freestyled” in Muscat. But that story is for another post.

    In the meantime, here is the scenery as we approached Muscat, following the coast from Al Jalali Fort, Al Alam Palace Complex, Al Mirani Fort, Riyam Memorial, Mutrah Corniche, and finally to our berth at Port Sultan Qaboos. All of it against a backdrop of the jagged Hajar Mountains.Lue lisää

  • At Sea

    23. huhtikuuta 2023, Arabian Sea ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    A quiet, relaxing day at sea. At present we are continuing towards Muscat, Oman … sailing through a storm that had thunder booming and lightning sparking across the night sky.

    The segment-end art exhibit was held today. I went up to take a look at the offerings. Mui submitted four pieces … all very different from each other. I overheard several people commenting that they liked his work. That’s a great compliment considering he’s only been painting since 15 January … and only when we are at sea.

    Tonight we were hosted for dinner in Toscana by our friend Emghil Hasan. He is the Destinations Manager and joined Insignia in Cape Town. We’ve known him for a couple of years now and it is always great when our paths cross at sea.
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  • Salalah, Oman

    22. huhtikuuta 2023, Oman ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    With today’s port call in Salalah, we have arrived in the Middle East.

    Alas, I have no story to tell you.

    You see, we did a wonderful tour here in 2017 that took us to see most of the highlights. This time, we wanted to visit the Al Baleed Archaeological Museum, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The ruins in the park belong to the ancient city of Z̧afār, which was an important port for frankincense trade during the medieval times.

    We got as far as arranging for a driver recommended by a fellow Find Penguins blog writer. Then we found out that the museum is closed on Saturdays … a closure complicated further by the fact that Eid al-Fitr is being celebrated in Oman at this time … a three-day holiday that marks the end of the Muslim holy fasting month of Ramadan.

    We considered alternatives but nothing piqued our curiosity. We also knew that the city would be pretty-much dead due to the holiday. So, we stayed on the ship.

    The good news is that we now have plans in place for all of the replacement ports that have been added due to the cancelation of our call on Myanmar. Our day was a productive one.

    Even better, we had dinner with friends Kadi & Brad and Geraldine & Thomas tonight, which made for a delightful end to our day.
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  • At Sea

    21. huhtikuuta 2023, Arabian Sea ⋅ 🌙 84 °F

    Day 3 of three days at sea.

    A quiet day cruising the Arabian Sea … with Mui capturing a colorful sunrise when he went up to the Terrace Café for his wake-up java.

  • Itinerary Change #16: No Myanmar

    19. huhtikuuta 2023, Indian Ocean ⋅ 🌙 84 °F

    It’s finally official. We won’t be going to Myanmar! Luckily, we did stop there for three days in 2017, so we’ve seen the highlights in and around Yangon and Bago.

    It was mid-morning when I heard the P/A chime. I didn’t think anything of it, however, as CD Ray usually has a morning announcement to review the daily program.

    Seconds later, I caught the tail end of a sentence that included the words “Myanmar” and “canceled.” I rushed in from the veranda to get the details of a cancelation that came as no surprise. We’ve been expecting this since there is a level 4 travel advisory against the country. The question was what would we be doing instead. It wasn’t just three days in Myanmar that were at issue. There were the three sea days to get there that needed to be worked out as well.

    Ray gave us a quick synopsis of the changes, which included switching some sea days around and adding ports of call in Port Blair, on India’s South Andaman Island; Sabang, Indonesia; Langkawi, Malaysia; and an extra day in Phuket, Thailand with an overnight stay. Three new-to-us ports; one repeat port. Kudos to Oceania for pulling together an itinerary that did not simply increase the number of days we have at sea on the upcoming segment.

    Now, to come up with plans for these new ports. The good news is that I was so sure Myanmar would be a no-go that I did not plan anything there. At least I have no plans to cancel with this go around of itinerary changes.
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  • At Sea: Northern Hemisphere Again

    19. huhtikuuta 2023, Indian Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Day 1 of three days at sea heading north to the Arabian Peninsula.

    Woke up to calm seas. Not glassy-smooth like it was last night, but smooth nonetheless. The ripples created by Insignia cleaving through the ocean added a sense of movement.

    We were at breakfast at the Terrace Café when we crossed back into the Northern Hemisphere this morning. No bump … no nothing to herald the occasion. This is our fourth crossing of this voyage. If I calculated correctly, there are two more to go.

    We’re using these three days at sea to really rest up and put the respiratory crud that’s hit us both behind us. We were so relaxed that, I even spaced out tonight’s Oceania Club Party. So, no stats for this segment.
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  • La Digue, Seychelles

    18. huhtikuuta 2023, Seychellit ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    New-to-us port #38.

    Mui woke up feeling really under the weather. That same non-COVID crud that laid me low for a day or two last week. A day of rest was in order.

    We scrapped our plans to go to Anse Patates. Instead, he went to bed and I went to Destinations to see if they could accommodate me on the 9:45a departure of the La Digue Highlights Tour. The answer was yes.

    The tour started with a ride from the tender pier through the small town of La Passe on a camionette … think open air truck with benches in the truck bed for passengers. The tour escort pointed out the hospital, the school, the Catholic Church, and the site where a new, more modern hospital is being constructed. No stops. Nothing to really see anyway.

    At the southern end of La Digue is L’Union Estate Park. Formerly a coconut and vanilla plantation, this was our destination. Our escort led us to two young ladies and explained that they would be taking us on a tour of the plantation, starting with a coconut husking demonstration. This is where things became weird.

    Upon learning that we’d be walking for about 30-40 minutes around the plantation, two or three people said that they did not want to do the tour. Instead, they wanted to go to the beach that was mentioned in the description. The beach was on the plantation property, so one of the young ladies started to escort those people to a small truck that would take them to the beach. The next thing we knew, only four of us were left behind to do the tour with Zoe!!! Alrighty then.

    As we wandered around the plantation, we followed the various steps in the production of coprah … the dried white flesh of the coconut. Once the husk is removed, the nut is broken open and placed in the kiln to dry. During the process, the flesh shrinks, making it very easy to remove it from the nut. Next, the flesh is milled to produce coconut oil. We saw the original mill, which was operated by an ox, but the process has been replaced by a modern mill that is operated by a motor. I later read that to make one pail of coconut oil 35 kilos of coprah must be milled, a process that takes two hours.

    The plantation house was our final stop here. The house is considered to be a symbol of La Digue. One of the oldest examples of French colonial architecture in Seychelles, it was once the home of a Mauritian family. Zoe said that nine different types of wood were used in the construction, but that the most popular woods are coconut, mahogany, and takamaka.

    We wrapped up the tour by going to see the giant Aldabra tortoises in their outdoor pen. These long-lived tortoises are legally protected in Seychelles. It is estimated that they can live up to 250 years, though that is hard to prove since no one person has lived that long to verify it. Zoe said that the ones in the pen were around 90 years old.

    Hopping back in a camionette, we were then taken to Anse Source D’Argent, an amazingly beautiful beach where massive granite boulders add character to the scenery. A band of lush vegetation provides shade along the edge of the white sand beach … the water is pristine and warm. The best scenery is from the water looking back towards land. Alas, I wasn’t willing to risk walking out with my phone in hand, so my photos are from the beach looking out (with one exception).

    We had almost two hours at the beach. It was comfortable enough in the shade, but under the sun it was brutally hot. I found a spot to leave my bag and went in for a dip a few times to cool off. All too soon, it was time to return to where the camionettes were waiting to take us back to the tender pier.

    This was a beach Mui would have loved. I’m sorry he wasn’t able to enjoy it today. Perhaps someday we will return to enjoy more of Seychelles on a land-based trip.
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  • Mahé, Seychelles

    17. huhtikuuta 2023, Seychellit ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

    New-to-us port #37.

    Insignia arrived at today’s port of call in Seychelles around 1:00p and made its way to the commercial port in Victoria. By 1:45p, the ship was not only tied up, but cleared as well … a green carpet extending from the gangway … with plants on either side to welcome us.

    Shortly thereafter, we were off the ship with Sonia & Boris and Younga & David … and negotiating with a driver to take us to Anse Beau Vallon, one of the most popular beaches on Mahé Island. Ten minutes later, we were on the long, crescent shaped beach, digging our toes into the silky white sand. Another ten minutes, and we were set with lounge chairs under the takamaka trees.

    The surf was light. The sun moving in and out of the clouds. Liquid sunshine falling occasionally. The water wasn’t as crystal clear as it might be on a day when there are no waves, but we didn’t let it deter us from going in for a dip … once, twice, thrice. Yes, even I took advantage of the warm water to go swimming this time.

    We would love to have stayed on the beach for dinner at one of the restaurants, but our driver wasn’t willing to extend his time beyond 6:00p. None of us were yet ready for a sit down dinner. So, we grabbed some shrimp and calamari from the food truck to enjoy on the beach before it was time to pack up and return to Insignia.

    Tonight, we’ll remain docked in Victoria. Sometime in the wee hours of tomorrow morning, however, we’ll throw off the lines and Insignia will take us a short distance to La Digue, our second port of call in Seychelles … a bit of paradise on earth.
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  • Nosy Be, Madagascar

    15. huhtikuuta 2023, Madagaskar ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    New-to-us port #36.

    Madagascar = Lemurs. So, there was no doubt in my mind as to what we would be doing when Insignia finally brought us to Nosy Be.

    My initial plan was to do the boat trip that takes visitors to a lemur reserve in the jungle. Then I did a bit more research. It quickly became apparent that with heat and humidity added to the equation, the trek was out of the question for me. I’d melt before we ever got to the lemurs!

    So, we did the next best thing. Together with Sonia and Boris, we hired a couple of tuk-tuks that took us to Lemuria Land. This is a zoological park set on a plantation with ylang ylang trees and mangroves along the river … with several types of the 117 known lemur species roaming freely.

    It is possible to wander around Lemuria Land at your own pace, but we decided to accept the services of a tour guide — tip in addition to the park admission. It turned out to be a smart move as he was able to take us to the lemurs — and other critters, such as tortoises, crocodiles, and chameleons — without wandering aimlessly in the sweltering heat that felt like a sauna.

    In fact, it was so hot and humid that once we accomplished our goal of seeing lemurs, we skipped not just the ylang ylang distillery on the property, but also nixed plans to take the shuttle into town.

    Air conditioning never felt as good as it did today!

    P.S. Signage was in French, so researching the types of lemurs we saw is going to have to wait until I have better internet.
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  • Mayotte, Comoros

    14. huhtikuuta 2023, Mayotten ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    New-to-us port #35.

    Comoros? What? Where?

    This little known “overseas department and region and single territorial collectivity” of France, lies in the Mozambique Channel … between southeastern Africa and northwestern Madagascar. It consists of the islands of Grand and Petite Terre and some tiny islets.

    We tendered to Mamoudzou on Grand Terre, and joining forces with Sonia & Boris and Younga & David, we hopped in a taxi to spend a couple of hours communing with nature at Plage Ngouja.

    Hopping in the taxi was easy. Once negotiations were completed. Getting to the beach? Not so much. A ride that should have taken us an hour took twice as long due to construction in the direction we were traveling. Once past it, we fairly flew down the narrow road … except for slowing down at speed bumps in the towns and villages. The reason we inched along for about an hour was actually a relief as it confirmed that the return to Mamoudzou would not be problematic.

    After a quick photo op at Plage Musical to see what is probably the largest baobab tree of our visit to Africa yet, we arrived at our destination and made our way through a resort built out of cargo containers to the beach.

    No sooner were we in sight of the sand that we spotted lemurs in the trees, on the fence, and on people! The lemurs weren’t aggressive, but where food was involved they weren’t shy about climbing all over you. Younga was the only one in our group brave enough to do feed them as we stood aside and photographed the critters.

    Then, it was time for the snorkelers to don their gear and head out in search of the coral, tropical fish, and turtles that reviews said were a highlight of Plage Ngouja. The rest of us — David and I — found shade under a tree … much welcome, I might add, when the sun deigned to come out.

    Unfortunately for the snorkelers — except for the one turtle Younga saw — there was nothing to see in the water, which was a little murky due to the silt carried down by the recent rains. We later learned that the turtles were in a lagoon on the far side of the beach. At least the Indian Ocean was warm and everyone seemed to enjoy their swim.

    As anticipated, the return drive was uneventful and took just under an hour. By 5:30p, we were on the tender back to Insignia for the 7:00p sailaway. For some reason, however, it was well after 9:00p when we felt the ship finally moving. A mechanical issue? A medical emergency? A delayed tour? We don’t know. Maybe we’ll get some intel tomorrow.
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  • At Sea

    13. huhtikuuta 2023, Mozambique Channel ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    Day 2 of two days at sea.

    The best way to recover from this respiratory crud is to rest up. So I pretty much slept through the day. Woke up a little while ago to partake a bit of the chicken consommé Mui brought me from the dining room.

    Back to 😴 again now.

    Fingers crossed tomorrow is a better day.
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  • At Sea

    12. huhtikuuta 2023, Mozambique Channel ⋅ 🌙 77 °F

    Day 1 of two days at sea.

    The good news is that it’s not COVID-19.

    The bad news is that I have an upper respiratory infection that is no fun. Some kind of crud that is going around the ship … if all the coughing is any indication.

    The doc prescribed a syrup to start breaking up the congestion. And told me to mask up when wandering around indoors. I’ve taken it a step further and self-quarantined.

    Hopefully, a couple of days of rest will make all the difference.
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  • Happy Birthday to Me!

    11. huhtikuuta 2023, Mozambique Channel

    Another birthday celebrated somewhere around the world.

    This time the setting was Maputo, Mozambique. Of course, by the time we actually had the birthday celebration in Toscana — with friends Sonia & Boris and Younga & David — we were already cruising the Indian Ocean towards our next port of call … in two days’ time.

    How old you ask? Let’s just say that I now qualify for medicare in the US … and free public transportation in Türkiye!
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  • Bye Bye Maputo

    11. huhtikuuta 2023, Mosambik ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    During the sailaway out of Maputo, we saw a different side of the city. More modern.

  • Maputo, Mozambique

    11. huhtikuuta 2023, Mosambik ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    New-to-us port #34.

    Today, we were joined by seven friends for a walking tour of Maputo to see some of the most popular attractions in the capital city.

    Hendy’s “Free Walking Tours” are very popular. Instead of a public tour in return for tips, I had arranged for a private tour for a specific per person price. Having heard that the street hawkers were quite “insistent,” I had also arranged for him to pick us up at the terminal gate instead of the usual meeting point near the Cathedral.

    Running the gauntlet of souvenir hawkers, our tour took us up the street to the beaux-arts style Maputo Railway Station … built by the Portuguese between 1908-1910. The building is #8 on the “most beautiful train stations list.” The dome was constructed in South Africa and assembled in Maputo … a big innovation at the time. There are only three international lines running out of the station, so most of its use is for domestic purposes.

    Walking through the Red Light District, where business at “by-the-hour” hotels goes on 24/7, we next went to the Fortaleza de Maputo. The fortress was built by the Portuguese between 1851-1867. It now serves as a military museum. The various rooms have historic exhibit and also the “memorial casket” of Ngungunhane, the last great chief of the African Kingdom of Gaza during the colonial period. He was captured and sent to the Azores in exile, where he died. What was purported to be his remains were returned to Mozambique when the first post-colonial President of Mozambique visited Lisbon. Although many sources on the internet indicate that the remains are in the casket, I got the impression that what we saw today was a replica of the original one.

    Our walk continued onto the Tunduru Botanic Garden … fairly small and more like a public park. Hendy identified several of the trees as we wandered along the shaded paths of the park. He also showed us the fruit bats that have colonized several of the trees in the park. Then we stopped at the Iron House, designed by Eiffel. The house, which dates back to the late 19th century, has seen varied use, but only for short periods of time because the steel, tin, and iron structure gets too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter.

    The Cathedral was our next stop. And then we followed Hendy across the multiple lanes of the road running around the Independence Plaza to hear a bit more about the war for independence and make the acquaintance of Marechal Samora Machel, the first president of independent Mozambique. He died in an airplane accident … believed to have been an assassination.

    A bit of trivia about the wife of the assassinated president. She later married Mandela. Thus becoming first lady twice … in two different countries.

    We wrapped up our tour with a visit to the Central Market … also known as the Downtown Bazaar. Stalls at the market sell all the usual stuff … groceries, fish, nuts and herbs. But one section is a “hair market” … the biggest of its kind in Africa. Apparently, hair extensions are very popular with African women, and they come from all over to buy them here. No buyers amongst us, but several people purchased bags of cashew. Mui wanted to buy some mangoes. But by then, the group had moved on. Later, however, our friends Kadi and Brad returned to the market and came back with a mango for him. He’s a happy camper. Thank you Kadi and Brad.
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  • Richards Bay, South Africa

    10. huhtikuuta 2023, Etelä-Afrikka ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    New-to-us port #33.

    Not that we spent our day in Richards Bay. Rather, once the ship was cleared shortly after 6:00a, we headed off on a day safari to Hluhluwe/Imfolozi (or Umfolozi) Game Reserve.

    For the 1¼-hour transfer from the port to the reserve, East Coast Safaris combined our group of 6 with another group of six. We had a 17-seater van that was plenty comfy for the ride. At the park, however, each group had a 10-seater game vehicle to themselves … no one having to sit in the middle is a good thing 😉

    Before setting off on our game drive, coffee, tea, muffins and other goodies were available to tide us over until brunch. Then, we got into our vehicle and took off in search of animals. First down a paved road, and then on dirt spurs that took us deeper into the park.

    The park, which dates back to 1895 — thus making it the oldest of its kind in Africa — is beautiful. Very green … lots of brush and trees. The terrain was varied … hills and flats. The tall brush made finding and seeing animals a challenge at times. Nonetheless, we did pretty good. No lions, though.

    Around 10:30a, we arrived at the picnic area. The tables were set. The food brought out … chicken kabobs, salad, and pasta salad. Beer, wine, and soft drinks were available as well.

    After our tummies were sated, we set off to find some more animals as we slowly made our way back to the entrance to the reserve.

    With all aboard scheduled for 3:00p, we wanted to be back at the port around 2:00p, so we left the reserve at 12:30p. Good thing we did, as we experienced a bit of a delay en route. We were stopped by the traffic police! While the license for the vehicle was good, the certificate that allows it to carry passengers had lapsed by 10 days. The tour operator called the owner of the vehicle and they got it worked out. Whew!

    Upon returning to Insignia we went through the departure immigration formalities. The face-to-face meetings were conducted on the ship and our passports are now with the purser’s office once again for safekeeping.

    All in all … a good day safari!
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  • Durban, South Africa

    9. huhtikuuta 2023, Etelä-Afrikka ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    New-to-us port #32.

    Had I remembered that today is Easter Sunday, I probably would have booked a mini safari or a tour that would have taken us out of the city. But I didn’t.

    No matter. We had a nice time with Christo, the guide we hired through the Get Your Guide app. But we had to jiggle the places on our itinerary because many of them were closed today.

    Our day started with an announcement by CD Ray. That’s not unusual as he’s on the P/A as soon as the ship is cleared to let us know that we can disembark Insignia. This time, however, he was passing along a message from the Durban Port Authority … warning us that it was dangerous to walk outside the fenced-in port area … encouraging everyone to be extra vigilant if they were heading off on their own. I had already read warnings about this on social media … hence the guided city tour.

    Christo picked us up from the gate at 9:00a and we headed into Durban. On Easter Sunday — in a city where 80% of the population is Christian — it was no surprise that the city was pretty much shuttered. No traffic to speak of. At least not at that early hour.

    After a quick stop at the Town Hall Square, we headed to the covered market. Most of the stores were closed, but several had opened up in anticipation of the ship’s tours stopping to spend money. In fact, Mui had just completed our gift purchase when the buses arrived.

    Next up was the herb market … just around the corner. While there are sacks of every imaginable herb you might be looking for, this is also the animal market. That aspect, on a regular business day, might not have been a pleasant experience. As it is, we saw a skinned crocodile and a snake. Christo did say that all parts of the animal are used … so there is that.

    The Botanic Gardens, which was our next stop, turned out to be the highlight of our day. Established in 1849, it is the oldest surviving botanic garden on the African continent. It is primarily an arboretum with a collection of woody plants from Africa, India and the Americas. Christo had made arrangements for us to take a golf cart tour with Vishnu, who works at the gardens. Truly, this was the best way to experience the park since without him we would have missed the most interesting trees.

    One particularly fascinating tree was the woodii, which is a palm-like tree that is one of the rarest in the world. It has separate male and female plants, but the female one has never been discovered. The tree is extinct in the wild for that reason and any specimens are clones of the male tree.

    From the Botanic Gardens, we did a quick drive around the Moses Mabhida Stadium. It was built for the 2010 FIFA World Cup. The funicular that visitors could take to the top of the arch has apparently been out of service since 2018, reducing the tourism value of the stadium.

    Since the museum on the itinerary was closed today, Christo took us to uMhlanga, a beach resort just north of Durban. Mui and I went for a short walk here to see the Whale-Bone Pier, which was built to re-route stormwater flow to feed the otherwise stagnant tide pools. The curved fiberglass “bones” are designed to be reminiscent of the rib bones of a whale.

    We wrapped up our tour with a wander at the uShaka Marine World and then Christo dropped us off at the cruise terminal.

    We have a late departure from Durban tonight. A good time to relax and rest up before our 6:00a safari departure tomorrow.
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  • At Sea

    8. huhtikuuta 2023, Indian Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    Quiet day at sea!

    Tonight was the Captain’s Cocktail Celebration for the Safaris & Golden Gems segment that embarked in Cape Town on 5 April. As I understand it, 231 passengers joined us in Cape Town. Not sure what the total passenger count is now.Lue lisää

  • Mossel Bay, South Africa

    7. huhtikuuta 2023, Etelä-Afrikka ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    New-to-us port #31.

    The plan for this tender port was to go a-wander and see what we could see. Maybe have lunch at a restaurant overlooking the Indian Ocean.

    We went ashore on the first tender, picked up a map from the information kiosk set up on the tender pier, and headed to the Bartolomeu Dias Museum Complex, dedicated to the Portuguese explorer who, in 1488, made the first recorded sailing around the Cape of Good Hope.

    The woman handing out the maps wasn’t sure the museum would be open. But, with a ship in town, perhaps they had made an exception. Nope … they had not. Turns out that the museum is closed two days of the year — Christmas and Good Friday. Yup, you guessed it. Today was Good Friday … a fact that had completely escaped us.

    So we went for a long walk on the hard-packed sand on Santos Beach.

    The good news is that when we went by the museum again after our walk, the door was open. A caretaker had come to feed the fish in the aquarium and said that we could take a quick peek in return for a donation. Alrighty then. We’d already seen the 500 year old post office tree and the botanical garden. By going inside, we added the full-size replica of the Dias caravel to our sightseeing.

    From the museum, we continued to The Point … the rocky foreshore below the St Blaize Lighthouse. Our destination was Delfino’s a seafood restaurant … recommended by the woman at the museum. What with it being Good Friday, we weren’t sure if they could seat us. They did … but even if they had not been able to, the long walk would have been worth it. The scenery was spectacular, with natural swim holes protected from the rough surf of the ocean by big boulders over which the waves exploded in a froth of white.

    We had just finished our meal when our friend CD Ray arrived at Delfino’s with his friend, Sandra. They joined us for drinks and dessert before we moved on to complete our walk to the tip of the rocks. What amazing scenery. We stayed a while, watching people swimming in the natural swim holes … jumping off platforms into the roiling water as the waves crashed on the rocks. Mui might have joined them had he brought his swim trunks with him.

    We walked back into the city via a slightly different route … just as quiet as the first route we had followed. With the city pretty much shut down for Good Friday, we decided to head back to the tender pier. By 4:00p, we were “home” … with time on our hands to rest before dinner at the Polo Grill.

    Another great day in Africa. Next up … some R&R at sea.
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