• Honningsvåg: Here & There on Magerøya

    18 juillet 2019, Norvège ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Our Nordkapp tour with Blue Puffin took us to places around Magerøya Island. In some places we spent quite a bit of time. Other stops were photo-ops that caught our eye.

    We wrapped up our tour with a stroll in Honningsvåg, which translates as “Honey Bay.”En savoir plus

  • Honningsvåg: Nordkapp ... Northernmost?

    18 juillet 2019, Norvège ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    Even the postcards I picked up at Nordkapp — North Cape in English — describe the massive rocky plateau that rises some 1,000 feet above the surface of the sea as the northernmost point of Europe.

    And yet, the Knivskjellodden Peninsula, which is visible from the overlook at Nordkapp clearly reaches further north ... even to the naked eye.

    Turns out there is a caveat to Nordkapp’s claim. Located at 71°10’21” North, it is the northernmost point in Europe reachable by car!
    En savoir plus

  • Honningsvåg: Nordkapp Tour ... Skarsvåg

    18 juillet 2019, Norvège ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    Our second stop en route to Nordkapp was Skarsvåg ... which claims to be the northernmost fishing village in the world!

    Monika took us to the king crab tanks here. Apparently, king crabs are not native to Norwegian waters. They were brought here from Murmansk initially ... and from Alaska later.

    They have flourished to the point of being pests. In fact, in some areas, there are no crab fishing quotas. Regardless of the abundance of king crabs in these waters, however, they continue to fetch high prices due to their popularity around the world!
    En savoir plus

  • Honningsvåg: Nordkapp Tour ... Kamøyvær

    18 juillet 2019, Norvège ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    While Honningsvåg’s status as Europe’s northernmost city might be questioned, what can’t be disputed (sort of) is Europe’s northernmost point ... Nordkapp (North Cape in English).

    On our way to Nordkapp, our private tour with Blue Puffin first stopped at the tiny fishing village of Kamøyvær ... also the hometown of our guide, Monica.

    Despite the dreary overcast, we enjoyed a stroll around the picturesque village along Kamøyfjorden on the island of Magerøya. We also learned a bit about the fishing industry that is the bread and butter of the region and met Monica’s cute ‘lil son, Tony.
    En savoir plus

  • Welcome to Honningsvåg (Norway)

    18 juillet 2019, Norvège ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    Our ninth port of call ... new-to-us Honningsvåg, Norway ... where we were greeted not just by trolls, but also by Bamse, the Sailor Dog.

    [The story of Bamse is at this link:https://dogs-in-history.blogspot.com/2017/02/ba….]

    Like Hammerfest, which we visited on the northbound leg of our cruise, Honningsvåg claims to be the northernmost city in Europe. I looked up the latitudes and indeed Honningsvåg might have a slight edge ... thanks to a loophole that allows any place that has a population of at least 5,000 to consider itself to be a city.
    En savoir plus

  • At Sea

    17 juillet 2019, Barentsz Sea ⋅ 🌧 43 °F

    Having made the turn out of the White Sea and around the Kola Peninsula early this morning, this was a day of sailing the Barents Sea back towards Norway. We are once again above the Arctic Circle.

    A quiet 25-hour day at sea ... we’ve gained an hour as we make our way west. We didn’t do anything too exciting ... massages; a movie on the TV for me while Mui went to the Chef’s Challenge featuring some of the officers of Nautica; a presentation on the Northeast Passage; afternoon tea at Horizons ... the theme was Viennese this time; the Oceania Club Party and dinner in the Grand Dining Room with the Gelmans and the Sweets.

    And now it’s time to get a goodnight’s rest before tomorrow’s port of call.
    En savoir plus

  • European Quest Booked

    17 juillet 2019, Barentsz Sea ⋅ 🌧 43 °F

    We're cruising the Barents Sea. Having called on Arkhangelsk, Russia yesterday, we're enjoying a day at sea aboard Oceania's Nautica on our way back to Norway. We did something today that impacts our 2020 travels, so I thought I'd write up a quick footprint to give our 2020 overseas travel journal a kick-start.

    Our plan was to keep 2020 fairly simple travel-wise. An Eastbound TransAtlantic at some point in the spring to take mom back home ... time in Turkey. That was it. Then we'd fly back to the US to spend the summer and fall months at home in order to explore our new home state ... perhaps with a new motorhome. Honest ... that was it.

    Today those plans jiggled when we booked a short 10-day cruise on Oceania's Marina. Roundtrip out of Southampton means no complicated logistics. Mostly new-to-us ports ... all but one of them in France. Sounds good to me.

    The itinerary is so port-intensive that we opted for an oceanview cabin ... the Cat C on Marina have floor-to-ceiling glass and are quite nice we've been told. This category was only available as a guarantee, so we might end up elsewhere on the ship. We'll have to wait and see.
    En savoir plus

  • Arkhangelsk: Lunch Time

    16 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    I very much would have preferred to spend a little extra time at Malye Korely in lieu of the late lunch we had at Paratov, a floating restaurant back in the city. The food was uninspired IMHO.

    The three-course meal consisted of a green salad; a fish soup — broth, really; and a main course that we had pre-ordered ... either beef stroganoff or fish.

    It was a short drive from the restaurant back to Nautica where we had time for tea and relaxation before Nautica left its berth around 7:00p.

    Next Port: Honningsvåg, Norway ... 595 NM away. But first a day at sea tomorrow.
    En savoir plus

  • Arkhangelsk: Malye Korely

    16 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Malye Korely, the state museum of wooden architecture and folk art of the northern regions of Russia, is said to be country’s largest museum of its kind. It consists of four sectors, with two more in the planning stages. Each sector is associated with one of the main rivers of the north.

    We had barely enough time to visit one sector. It was a shame really as I could have easily spent the entire day at this fascinating place.

    We were greeted at the museum entrance with the traditional welcome of bread and salt ... the former for health; the latter for prosperity. Olga, our guide, then took us around the Kargopol-Onega sector, which consists of a collection of structures from the southwestern part of Arkhangelsk Oblast [administrative region].
    En savoir plus

  • Arkhangelsk: Monuments & Memorials

    16 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    On our way to the open-air museum we planned to visit, our guide stopped at a beach overlooking the Northern Dvina River. Huh! Sure, it was a warm, sunny day ... but not nearly warm enough for us to consider a swim.

    Turns out that this spot is rich in monuments and memorials ... all dedicated to the WWII era.

    Since photo-captions are character-limited, I’ll explain each monument here ...

    Monument to the Participants of the Arctic Convoys ... memorializes the American, British and Icelandic navies that protected the merchant convoys that brought aid to the Soviet Union under the lend-lease program of WWII.

    Monument to the Seal ... the hunting of which sustained the local people and helped them to survive through the war years.

    Victory War Monument ... dedicated to the lives lost in defense of the USSR during WWII.

    Monument to Peter the Great (a little further down the road from the beach) ... erected in 1914, it consists of a statue of the Czar on a pedestal. Ironic, as Mui later noted, since Peter the Great pretty much signed the economic death warrant for the city when he established Petrograd (now St Petersburg).
    En savoir plus

  • Welcome to Arkhangelsk (Russia)

    16 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Our eighth port of call ... new-to-us Arkhangelsk, Russia ... Archangel, in English. A short overnight cruise from Solovetsky Island and up the Northern Dvina River brought us to our destination.

    A snafu with the paperwork submitted by the operator of our private tour delayed our disembarkation from Nautica briefly. Apparently, the officials were expecting us to fly into the city, not cruise in! Turns out the travel agency had, in fact, submitted updated paperwork, but the correction had not filtered down to the port authorities.

    Once the bureaucratic red tape was resolved, we got off the ship and got in a van to explore the area. The rest of the day went smoothly!

    [The “welcome” image I am including with this post was taken later in the day, but I thought it was appropriate here despite the issues with the paperwork. Welcoming visitors with bread and salt is an ancient Russian tradition ... bread for good health ... salt for prosperity.]
    En savoir plus

  • Solovetsky Island Photo Gallery

    15 juillet 2019, White Sea ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    Images from today’s visit to Murmansk, Russia are at this link:
    https://eenusa.smugmug.com/Cruises/NoGlow/Slvts…

  • Solovetsky Patriarchal Monastery

    15 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    The name of the monastery is much longer than what I was able to fit into the title of the footprint — Spaso-Preobrazhenskiy Solovetsky Patriarchal Monastery.

    Back in the main settlement after our tour around the northern portion of the island, members of our group all went their separate ways, exploring the monastery at our own pace. We could have easily spent all day here!

    Inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List, the monastery was founded in 1429. The churches, such as the Transfiguration Cathedral, as well as the cell buildings, refectories, and more, are encircled by a stone wall, giving the monastery the look of a fortress ... except for the onion-domes that peek out above the fortifications.

    The monastery served many functions throughout its history, including a period of time between 1923-1939 when it was used as a prison camp operated by the Russian GULAG. Today, it is once again a place of religion, and the most popular site to visit on Bolshoy Solovetsky Island.

    After exploring the monastery, Mui and I took a roundabout way to walk back to the tender pier. Our reward? Reflection photos!

    Next up: Arkhangelsk, Russia ... 133 NM away.
    En savoir plus

  • Solovetsky: Circling Back

    15 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    From Sekirnaya Hill, we continued around the north end of the island, making occasional stops for photo ops as we bumpity-bumped our way back to the main settlement. This portion of Bolshoy Solovetsky Island has many, many, many lakes and ponds and inlets of all sizes. And is heavily forested as well.

    We didn’t dally long at any of our stops ... for a couple of reasons — the mosquitoes were vicious and we wanted to have plenty of time to visit the fortress-like main monastery. Too, despite our layers, we were all chilled to the bone. So much so that we canceled the boat ride out to Big Zayasky Island. A mistake? In hindsight, I’d say, yes. At the time, however, it was the right decision.
    En savoir plus

  • Solovetsky: Sekirnaya Hill Monastery

    15 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    An interminable, bumpy, back-killer, 30-minute drive on a heavily potholed road, took us to the first stop of the private tour Sonia had arranged for us ... the Minor Monastery on Gora Sekirnaya [Sekirnaya Hill] ... the highest spot on Solovetsky Island ... and home to the Church of Ascension, which was built in 1862 as a lighthouse. The church does double duty as a lighthouse today.

    The road to the top of the hill was too steep for the vehicles to negotiate, so we had to hoof-it up to the top. That wasn’t the worst part of this visit. It was the mosquitoes and biting gnats that tried to make a meal of us whenever we stopped for any length of time. Our guide later told us that staking naked prisoners outdoors to be biten by mosquitoes was one means of torture here!

    As was the case with the other monasteries and retreats, this one also served as a forced labor camp. It was here that, in addition to the church where the prisoners were housed, we visited what was later discovered to be mass burial sites. Crosses erected since have numbers on them to designate the number of bodies found in a particular site.

    Beautiful scenery ... beautiful church ... very sad history!
    En savoir plus

  • Welcome to Solovetsky Island (Russia)

    15 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    Our seventh port of call ... new-to-us Solovetsky (Solovski) Island, Russia ... a place of beauty that played an important role in a dark and sad chapter of Soviet history.

    Located in Russia’s White Sea Region, the archipelago of islands, which gets its name from the main island of Bolshoy Solovetsky, is perhaps better known as the Soviet-era Gulag Islands.

    Christian monks, seeking a place of solitude and retreat, arrived at the Solovetsky Islands in the 15th century. Stone churches were built, some surrounded by fortified walls ... such at the Solovetsky Transfiguration Monastery. As the islands flourished, they became a place of visitation for tsars and emperors. Bolshoy Solovetsky, the island we tendered to today, was the most popular of the islands.

    Unfortunately, all that changed during the Soviet times. Instead of being a place of retreat, the islands became a place for forced labor camps operated by the government agency known as GULAG.

    The first of the camps — referred to as the Solovski Special Prison — was set up in 1923 in the converted monastery. It was closed in 1939. The exact number of prisoners sent to the camp is not known. Varying accounts give numbers ranging from tens of thousands to hundreds of thousands.
    En savoir plus

  • Day @ Sea

    14 juillet 2019, White Sea ⋅ ☀️ 48 °F

    A quiet day at sea. Having rounded the Kola Peninsula, we are now cruising the White Sea ... a new-to-us body of water.

    Guillemots resting on the water and a brief sighting of a fin whale at breakfast while Nautica cleaved through the Barents Sea this morning.

    A walk or two around the outer decks combined with stepercize using the stairs indoors.

    Plenty of reading and writing ... too cold to sit outside so I opted for my personal “window bench” in the cabin.

    Lunch at the Terrace Café with the Gelmans and the Sweets ... the theme at the buffet was Asian.

    Afternoon tea at the Horizons Lounge ... canapés and scones in lieu of dinner.

    A relaxing hot-stone massage to wrap up the day.

    That’s all it took for the day fly by in the blink of an eye.
    En savoir plus

  • Murmansk: Dinner Time

    13 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    Our private tour wrapped up with dinner @ Tsarskaya Okhota, a restaurant whose name translates as “the Czar’s Hunting Lodge.” The decor certainly fit the name!

    The restaurant was hopping — mostly with other private tour groups. With everyone arriving at about the same time, service was adversely impacted. Luckily, we were amongst the first to arrive and had few problems with the serving of our three-course meal. It also helped that we’d pre-ordered our dinner choices — beef-based or fish-based — well ahead of time.

    We were back at the port by 8:00p. Although we would be remaining in Russian waters for the next few days, we still had to go through immigration before embarking the ship. Bureaucracy at its best!

    Next Port: Solovetsky Islands, Russia ... 460 NM away. But first a day at sea tomorrow.
    En savoir plus

  • Murmansk: The “Ленин” (Lenin)

    13 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    The next stop on our sightseeing tour took us back to the port. Here, permanently berthed at a pier next to Nautica, is the world’s first nuclear-powered icebreaker ... the Lenin.

    Launched in 1957, this Soviet-era icebreaker was in service between 1959-1989. During that time, it worked to clear sea routes along Russia’s northern coast and pave the way for cargo vessels. Serving in such remote areas, its nuclear power meant it could continue working without needing regular fuel replenishment.

    During the 30 years it was in service, the Lenin traveled over 85,000 miles in the Arctic. Much of it through ice that eventually caused the hull to be worn thin. Hence retirement. Today, it serves as a museum ship.

    It was interesting to wander through the “innards” of the icebreaker and compare it to 50 Let Pobedy, the “working” second-generation nuclear-powered icebreaker that was our ride to the North Pole in 2014.
    En savoir plus

  • Murmansk: “Chimney Memorial”

    13 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ 🌧 43 °F

    The monument is dedicated to the residents of Murmansk, but our ‘escort’ described it as the Chimney Memorial ... referring to the chimneys that were left standing after heavy bombardment of the city during the Great War.

    It consists of a couple of tall blocks — not unlike chimneys; a brick wall explaining about the memorial ... in Cyrillic; and a circle of panels with historic photos of wartime Murmansk. Sonia translated the panels, explaining that the memorial is in honor of the “immortal feat of the people of Murmansk during WWII.”
    En savoir plus

  • Murmansk: Alyosha

    13 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ 🌧 43 °F

    The next stop on our tour was “Alyosha” — the giant, 5,000-ton concrete soldier that greeted us from atop his hilltop perch as Nautica made its way down Kola Bay.

    The monument, which Mui and I were familiar with from our 2014 visit to the city, is dedicated to the “Defenders of the Soviet Arctic during the Great Patriotic War.” Alyosha is facing towards the Valley of Glory, where “the fiercest fighting of the Arctic Campaign occurred when German invaders were turned back from the approaches of Murmansk in 1941.” Behind it is a pyramidal structure that represents a flag at half mast.En savoir plus

  • Murmansk: Remembering Seamen

    13 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ 🌧 43 °F

    The first stop of the tour was a spot Mui and I were familiar with from our brief time in Murmansk in 2014.

    The park-like setting is home to two memorials and a church ... all dedicated to seamen who have died during peacetime since 1945 ... be they fishermen, merchant marine, or military sailors.

    The first memorial is the sail of the Kursk, the nuclear submarine that went down in the Barents Sea in 2000 with all hands aboard. The sail was found in a scrapyard nine years later and now serves as a memorial dedicated to submariners who have died during peacetime.

    The second memorial, a Lighthouse Tower, has an observation platform at the top and a museum inside the structure. But, as was the case in 2014, it was locked up tight again today.

    The Church of the Savior on Waters, sits at the highest point of the park. The gold-domed Orthodox Church was built in 2002, with funding coming solely from the public. When we visited the complex in 2014, one of our naturalist guides told us the story of how, due to restrictive religious practices, the people lied to inspectors and said they were building a community center and not a church.
    En savoir plus

  • Welcome to Hero City Murmansk

    13 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ 🌧 43 °F

    Our sixth port of call ... Murmansk ... in the Russian Arctic.

    Not only was Nautica docked at Murmansk’s marine terminal and cleared in record time, but our small group was first off the ship for the private tour Sonia had arranged for us.

    By the way, why “Hero City?” This is apparently an honorary title that was awarded to 12 cities during the Soviet era for outstanding heroism during WWII.
    En savoir plus

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