Atlantic Crossing: Day 2
8 ноября 2023 г., North Atlantic Ocean
Routine. Routine. Routine.
That means that we’re not doing anything that is footprint-worthy. No complaints on our part, however. We have several months ahead of us that promise to be really busy, so we’re looking forward to some enforced R&R at sea.
Nonetheless, I am going to post footprints for each day of the crossing so that I don’t leave the blog somewhere in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean.
By the way … we received disembarkation options today. Unlike other cruise lines we’ve sailed recently, HAL allows passengers to choose their own debarkation time … within reason. We opted for Gray 2 … the last group. Looks like everyone will be off by 9:00a regardless … unless US Customs and Immigration calls a halt to the process … as happened in Miami at the end of our Celebrity crossing last year.
As of noon, distance covered since departing Tenerife: 742 NM
As of noon, distance remaining to Ft Lauderdale: 2,710 NMЧитать далее
Atlantic Crossing: Day 1
7 ноября 2023 г., North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 73 °F
This is the extra day added to what should have been a 7-day crossing.
If not for the storms, and the port-pilot strike, today we would have been in Funchal in Portugal’s Madeira Islands and starting the crossing late tonight.
We’ve been gently rockin’ and rollin’ our way to the USA. A partly to mostly cloudy day. Captain Rens gave the day’s high temp as 70F. But it sure felt much warmer than that when the sun was on the veranda.
In addition to mentioning the temperature and the usual nautical navigation stats in his noon announcement, Captain Rens gave us an update on the low pressure systems that have played havoc with our published itinerary. We are way ahead of the storms around Portugal/Spain. And the one chasing us down to the Canaries is now to our starboard. However, we are slowly pulling away from it. By tomorrow it should be well to our stern and remain there for the rest of the crossing.
As of noon, distance covered since departing Tenerife: 276 NM
As of noon, distance remaining to Ft Lauderdale: 3,176 NMЧитать далее
Santa Cruz: Spanish Farewell
6 ноября 2023 г., Испания
Bidding our “Spanish Farewell” from Santa Cruz at 8:00p, we drew the curtain on our last port of call of this cruise.
Next stop … the Americas. More specifically … Ft Lauderdale, Florida. 3,452 NM to go!
A bit of rain, after we returned to Oosterdam from La Laguna this afternoon, rewarded us with a rainbow. I am taking it as a good omen for the crossing.Читать далее
Santa Cruz: Tapas in La Laguna
6 ноября 2023 г., Испания
Heeding the complaints being registered by our feet and tummies, we headed next to Patio Canario … housed in Casa Mustelier, which dates from 1739.
Since we did not have a reservation, we were given a table inside rather than on the patio where the “open kitchen” is located. We took a peek at the patio later, and figure we got the better end of the deal. Certainly more ambiance inside.
We ordered a half platter of cheese and Serrano ham; a half order of croquettes … ham, chicken, and spinach; and an order of patatas bravas … which, as it turns out had a sauce made with goat cheese … explaining why I didn’t much care for what is otherwise a favorite dish of mine. A liter of sangria washed down the food. And a truly delicious tres leches cake for dessert wrapped up our meal.Читать далее
Santa Cruz: Exploring La Laguna
6 ноября 2023 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F
Our plan today was to head up to San Cristóbal de La Laguna, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that is commonly referred to simply as La Laguna.
As the former capital of the Canary Islands, La Laguna is a city with lots of history, colonial architecture, and a linear layout that dates back to the 15th century. Nowadays, it is considered the cultural capital of the archipelago. We were not disappointed in what we found in La Laguna today … notwithstanding the fact that we did not encounter the ghostly spirit of Catalina Lercaro … even though we did visit her home 😳
To get to La Laguna, we hopped on a bus from a stop near the cruise terminal. That took us to the main bus terminal. From there, we hopped on a tram for the 30-40 minute ride up to Las Trinidad … the last stop on the tram line. It was then a 5-minute walk to the historic center of La Laguna.
It was 10:00a when we began our stroll through the deserted streets in the UNESCO area of the town. That would change as the day progressed.. Following the tower peeking above the historic buildings, we stopped the Cathedral of Santa Ana first. From there, we walked to the visitor information office to pick up a map and get tips.
Map in hand, we headed to Calle San Agustin, lined with historic buildings on either side of the street. Some of the buildings had signs in front of them with descriptions explaining their origin and how they were being used currently. Many of them housed government offices, the ground floor open to visitors who wanted to take a peek into the courtyard.
In one such house — Casa Lercaro — we found the Museum of History and Anthropology of Tenerife. The story goes that Catalina Lercaro, the daughter of the family, did not want to go through with the marriage of convenience arranged by her parents. So, she killed herself by leaping into a pit in the courtyard. Though the house is said to be haunted by Catalina’s spirit, we saw no ghosts today … just some interesting exhibits … and a lovely colonial era building.
Our next stop was the Monastery of Santa Clara and Church of St John the Baptist. Here we got a combo ticket that gave us admission to several sites … starting with the monastery and the museum housed on the grounds.
Palacio Salazar was the next place included in the combo ticket. The mid-17th century property is an example of the Canarian Baroque style. At the end of the 19th century it was acquired by the church and became the residence of the Archbishop. After having our tickets punched, we were buzzed through the beautiful wrought iron gate, leaving behind a bunch of people wondering what made us special enough that we were given access. If only they knew it was the combo tickets we had purchased 😊
Our meandering walk from Palacio Salazar next took us to Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Concepción. Not that we were interested in the church itself. Rather, we wanted to climb the tower. But since both were included in the combo ticket, we went inside the church first. Turns out that dating back to 1511, this was the first church to be founded in the Canaries after the conquest.
The tower climb was not particularly strenuous … I think five flights in all and then a circular staircase up to the open terrace where the bells are located. But the stairs were steep and the risers high. The scenery in every direction from the top of the tower was lovely, and we spent quite some time enjoying the colorful city from high up. Just as we were about to leave, the bells tolled the quarter hour. Luckily, it was the small bells and not the big one that I later read is the largest in the Canary Islands.
By the time we came down the tower both our feet and our tummies were registering their complaints. The former wanted a bit of rest; the latter wanted food.Читать далее
Welcome to Santa Cruz de Tenerife
6 ноября 2023 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F
After rockin’ and rollin’ overnight, Oosterdam was already snug in its berth when I went up to the Lido Market to join Mui for breakfast at 7:30a. Tummies sated, we were off the ship and on our way to explore a new-to-us part of Tenerife.
Let me just say that we had a great day in Santa Cruz today. Actually, we spent our time in San Cristóbal de la Laguna, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. But that story will be in the next footprint … this one is just to welcome everyone to our second port of call in Spain’s Canary Islands.
Our only regret today was that our friends, Manuela and Wolfgang, were off the island, so we didn’t get to see them this time.Читать далее
Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, Spain
5 ноября 2023 г., Испания
It’s raining in Las Palmas!
At least it is at the moment. It feels refreshing after a hot and sunny afternoon here in the Canaries. It’s 7:00p. Oosterdam is tied up at its berth since we are not scheduled to depart until 9:00p. I am enjoying the comfy night time temperature on the veranda, which is well-protected from the rain.
What to say about today.
Disappointing … that just about covers it. Here’s the story anyway … and a few photos. I blame it on today being Sunday.
After a morning at sea, our 2:00p arrival in port was delayed a bit due to a race … sailboats heading to the coast of Africa. In his announcement explaining the reason for the delay, Captain Rens said that they had not been advised of the race so it came as a surprise to the bridge team as well. To make up for the delay, he opened the bow, which is always a treat.
After Daniel’s presentation about Las Palmas last night, we had decided to spend our afternoon in Vegueta … the Old Town of Las Palmas … about two miles from the port. A cathedral, historic buildings, cafés, and shops … well, it sounded like the perfect place to while away a couple of hours on a Sunday afternoon. Maybe even have dinner.
Disembarking Oosterdam, we weaved our way around passengers coming from and going to the four other ships in port. In the square outside the gates — a 10-minute or so walk from where we were docked — we found the underground bus station. We were told that either the yellow #12 bus, or the blue #327 bus would take us to Vegueta … €1.40pp … each way. We missed the #12 while we were getting our bearings. But #327 arrived moments later. Except for the driver’s wife, we were the only passengers on the bus.
So far so good.
We got off when the driver told us we had reached our destination. He pointed out where to catch #12 on the way back. Which we did … much earlier than anticipated. You see, except for a few cafés, Vegueta, the birth place of Las Palmas, was fast asleep.
Shops closed. Museums closed. Even the cathedral — where we’d been told we could take an elevator up the tower to see the aerial views — was closed. We wandered around for a bit. Thought about sitting down at one of the few open cafés to grab a drink … it was too early for food. Nah … the ambiance just wasn’t there. Sighing, we walked to the bus station and hopped on #12 for the ride back to the port.
It was 5:00p when we returned to Oosterdam. Settling on the veranda, we enjoyed a glass of wine and some snacks.
Fingers crossed for a better day in Tenerife tomorrow!Читать далее
Sailing South to the Canaries
5 ноября 2023 г., North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 72 °F
A day that should have been a port of call, is a day at sea instead.
But I explained all that in yesterday’s footprint when we first learned of the changes to our itinerary from the Master of the Vessel.
Captain Rens had said that despite the deviation to our planned route to avoid the storm, we’d still feel the motion of the ocean. It just wouldn’t be as rough. In fact, we started feeling the swells around midnight last night … when we were transiting the Strait of Gibraltar.
No, we didn’t see The Rock, since it was to Oosterdam’s starboard. Nor was Africa visible in the pitch dark of night on the port side.
The ship was still rolling quite a bit when we woke up this morning. Later in the day, Oosterdam switched things up and started pitching instead. The ocean looked deceivingly calm … lots of dead swells.
I managed to set myself up on the veranda to do a bit of writing once the sun moved off. From my vantage point, the swells didn’t look particularly big. In his noon announcement, however, Captain Rens said that they were in the 15-16 feet range. He also said that he had checked the weather and sea conditions off the Portuguese coast and the swells there were in the 30-36 feet range … worse than he thought they would be when he made the announcement that we were re-routing to a more southerly route for the crossing.
One of the nice things they do on HAL ships is the port presentations. Aside from what’s available on the TV, the Cruise & Travel Director leads a session geared towards independents like us. The session includes logistical information for the port, tips on local sightseeing ideas and how to get around, recommendations for places to explore that might be a little further afield, and a Q&A wrap-up.
Tonight we went to the session for Las Palmas de Gran Canaria. It was standing-room only. We now have a loose plan that will take us in one of two directions in Las Palmas. Which one? We’ll decide that once we arrive in port.Читать далее

Two to TravelNope … that starts with 4-star … which requires a big jump in points. I doubt we’ll ever achieve that level.
Cadiz, Lisbon, Funchal … No Go
3 ноября 2023 г., Испания
A big change! To our itinerary, that is. One that is going to delay our “Spanish Farewell” since the ports that have been added to replace the ones we lost belong to Spain.
Here’s more about the information Captain Rens had to share with us when he came over the P/A system just before our departure from Malaga.
Looks like the low pressure front in the English Channel and Bay of Biscay is continuing to move in our direction. In fact, by the time of our planned arrival in Lisbon the day after tomorrow, the sea state is expected to be in the 18-21 feet range. So, the storms put paid to both Cadiz and Lisbon.
As well, the Portuguese port pilots are preparing to strike, which will impact maritime operations in Funchal … where using a pilot is compulsory. Captain Rens said that they looked at going to the Azores instead. Yes, also a Portuguese port. But there the pilots are supplied by the navy, so no problem in that respect. Except for the impact from the storm.
So, the three ports ahead of our 7-day run down the Atlantic to Florida are now all canceled. In place of Cadiz tomorrow, we will have a day at sea. Then, we will call on the Canary Islands — Las Palmas de Gran Canaria on the 5th; Santa Cruz de Tenerife on the 6th. And instead of a 7-day crossing, we’re going to have a more southerly 8-day crossing.
Changes are changes. C’est la vie. We’ll roll with the punches with which we’ve been hit.Читать далее
Málaga: Quick Look @ Mijas
3 ноября 2023 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F
From Ronda, Tulio drove us to Mijas … a little more than an hour away. Trust me, you didn’t want to hear Enrique singing the song that popped into our minds when he described our route through the mountain as a “long and winding road.”
A quick stop along the way gave us a chance for a distant glimpse of the Rock of Gibraltar veiled by haze. Along our route, the Mediterranean kept us company as we drove through one of the playgrounds that draw the rich and famous to Spain … Marbella.
Known as the “White Village” due to its white-washed buildings, Mijas is described as being on the Costa del Sol. It would be more accurate to say, however, that it overlooks the coast since it sits high up in the foothills of the limestone mountains known as Sierra de Mijas. The mountains are said to be the “green lung of the Costa del Sol.” At only 1,476 feet above sea level — about half that of Ronda — it wasn’t nearly as cool in Mijas as it had been in Ronda. Nor as windy. And the sun was shining here to keep us comfortably warm as we wandered around.
The town was founded in prehistoric times by the Tartessians. From what I read later, the fortifications we saw around Mijas are from the original defenses built to protect the town. As was the case with Ronda, a number of other cultures settled here through the centuries, including the Moors. In fact, the village owes its name to the Moors, who abbreviated the original name of Tamisa to Mixa … which then became Mijas.
From the observation terrace near the Town Hall — our drop off point — we headed off on our own. We had two hours to see what we could see.
Photo ops around the observation terrace led us over to a viewpoint to check out the 17th century Shrine of the Virgen de la Peña, aka the Virgin of the Rock … built into a cave that was excavated by a Carmelite Monk. Tradition has it that the cave was discovered in 1586 by two shepherd children who were guided to the place by a dove.
One of the things Mijas is known for is its donkeys. The Andalusian donkey is a native breed that is bigger than others. These animals were used to carry goods from he coast … which were then distributed around the mountain villages. If Enrique is to be believed, Mijas’s “donkey taxi” — basically a cart pulled by a donkey — became a “thing” because tourists kept asking to take photos of the animals and ride them around town.
A meandering stroll took us into narrow streets, the flower pots decorating the side walls of the buildings charming us and adding color to an otherwise all-white streetscape. We made our way to another terrace overlooking the backside of the village … quieter here than the center of town, which was a hubbub of activity with tourists shopping and filling up cafés and restaurants. Passing by the Plaza de Toros of Mijas, we made our way back to the meeting point, stopping along the way to get a sweet treat from a gelateria.
The return drive to Málaga followed yet another route … via the highway this time. The drive was about 45 minutes long … the shortest of the day. As promised, we were back at the port terminal at 4:30p. Through the security checkpoint without delay; then onto the shuttle bus that was about to depart the terminal to take passengers back to Oosterdam.
We made such good time getting back to the ship that we decided to quickly freshen up and head to the dining room at 5:00p. After all, except for the gelato, we’d not had time to eat during the tour. Our tummies were registering their complaint.
We had just placed our order when the Master of the Vessel ding-donged into the dining room. Oh oh!Читать далее
Málaga, Spain: Quick Look @ Ronda
3 ноября 2023 г., Испания
We love Málaga.
Though we still had places to explore in this charming city, and a sidewalk café near the Central Market where we like to have tapas al fresco, we decided a change of pace would be appropriate for what was our third time in Málaga.
Thus, we booked a small group public tour through Spain Day Tours that took us further afield … first to Ronda; then to Mijas.
With the prime berth — right in front of the terminal — given to Celebrity Beyond, we had to take a shuttle from Oosterdam to the terminal. The meeting time for the group was set between 8:15a and 8:29a. We had strict instructions from Spain Day Tours stating that they leave exactly at 8:30a. So, we were on the 8:00a shuttle to give ourselves plenty of leeway. As it turns out, it was our guide Enrique who delayed our departure by 10 minutes, not the tour participants.
The 65-mile drive to Ronda takes 1.5 hours. Our drive through the Andalusian countryside took more like 2 hours … primarily due to a 20-minute bathroom and refreshment break at Mesón de Diego, which I thought was a bit of an overkill considering the distance.
Ronda is a town in the mountains. It is perhaps best known for its cliffside location, split into two by the 390-foot deep Tajo Gorge … through which Rio Guadalevin runs. The town is also part of the Sierra de las Nieves National Park, which makes it all the more special. Though there is indication of prehistoric settlements in the area, Ronda was first settled by the Celts in the 6th century BC. A number of other cultures replaced them over the centuries, including the Moors. Finally, the Spaniards permanently conquered the town.
I first became aware of Ronda when Mui and I took a Spanish class in the late 1990s. One of our assignments was to pick a town and describe “our apartment” there. It was a picture of the town, sitting high behind Puente Nuevo [new bridge], that drew us to using the town for that exercise. I wanted to replicate that picture for myself today. Alas, we did not have time to cross over to the other side of the gorge to get the right perspective.
We arrived at the Ronda bus station at 10:49a. This was to be our drop off point, Enrique explained … just a short walk into the Old Town. We had just short of two hours to explore the town … not nearly enough for “slow travelers” that we are. C’est la vie.
Our fleet-footed stroll around Ronda started at Puerto Nuevo … “new” being a matter of perspective since the bridge dates back to 1751-1793. Then we got ourselves lost — on purpose — in the narrow, cobblestone back streets where we got away from the crowds to explore the nooks and crannies of Ronda. We walked along the Murallas de la Cuara, the fortified walls that follow the edge of the cliff, and where the Moors had established their medina. At the end of the path, we were rewarded with fantastic views of Ronda.
Our meandering path then took us back to the hubbub around Puente Nuevo, following streets that made for charming photo ops. There were several sites of interest along the way, but with our time short, we opted to skip going inside this time. We passed the bullring, wandered into a garden that I believe was part of the grounds of the nearby church, enjoyed Andalusian valley views from an overlook, and made it back to the bus station by 12:45p as requested … with a café-stop that was just long enough for Mui to grab an espresso at the bar.
A nice exploratory couple of hours that left Ronda on our “return-to-explore-further list.”Читать далее
Cartagena, Spain … No Go
2 ноября 2023 г., Western Mediterranean ⋅ 🌬 66 °F
Lost another port today to the vagaries of Mother Nature. This is the second port cancelation due to weather since embarking Oosterdam in Istanbul on 21 October.
With Oosterdam scheduled for an 11:00a arrival in Cartagena, we were having a quiet morning at sea … one that had started with a colorful sunrise. When Captain Rens’ P/A announcement came over the speakers in the cabin at 10:45a, we immediately knew it was not good news. And it wasn’t.
As it turns out, Mother Nature was going to force Oosterdam out to sea. Apparently, we got as far as picking up the pilot for the final run into Cartagena. Captain Rens said that he wanted to confirm the conditions with the pilot instead of canceling the call based just on what the weather reports were telling him.
Conditions were such that we might have made it into port. Perhaps even managed to dock despite winds gusting up to 50 knots. But the chances of being able to get out at the end of the day were nil as the storm was expected to increase in strength. The culprit for these conditions … a stationary low pressure front in the English Channel, which is moving in our direction.
Alrighty then, a day at sea it would be … swells in the 12-15 feet range to keep us on our toes.
As soon as the announcement was over, we rushed to the starboard side, which was in sight of Spain, to check if there was a cell signal … to update friends and family; check emails and social media, and catch up on the news. The signal was still strong when we put our phones back on airplane mode an hour later.
Captain Rens has indicated that we still have a shot at Malaga tomorrow as winds are forecasted to be gusting to only 20 knots. But he did say that it will be congested as several other ships are trying to find alternate ports and Malaga seems to be the choice du jour. The good news is that Malaga has been on our itinerary from the get go, so we should have priority for berthing.Читать далее

ПутешественникWe have just been informed that there will be Starlink on board, for wifi, for our crossing on Queen Mary 2 next year. Do they have that available on HAL?

Two to TravelI don’t know really. The internet has been so good since we purchased the package that we haven’t asked. But I believe we are going to have Starlink on Regatta in December.

ПутешественникOur package is US$ 140/Person (one device) for the seven day crossing. I have heard mixed reviews of QM2's coverage inside the ship, with reports of people using shoes to prop their doors open to get a signal. Hopefully (especially for the price) they have improved their internal coverage.

Two to TravelFingers crossed for you. Looking forward to reading about your crossing next year. Had COVID not sent the world up in flames, we were going to do a crossing on QM2 to get from NYC to Southampton to Cape Town in 2021. Wasn’t meant to be, I guess.
Indonesian eVOA for AusPan ✔️
1 ноября 2023 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F
After spending 7 weeks visiting family in Turkey, we are on our way back home to the USA. Instead of flying, however, we embarked Holland America’s Oosterdam in İstanbul for a TransAtlantic cruise … with a bit of sightseeing in Europe along the way.
Today is our second day in Barcelona. At the moment, having visited the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Sant Pau, we are back on the ship. With time on our hands before sail away, we took advantage of the strong cell signal from shore to take care of a visa requirement for AusPan.
Indonesia requires a VOA [visa on arrival] for US residents. This used to be handled by the ship in the past. Now, Indonesia has implemented a system to apply for the visa online to receive an e-VOA in advance of the ship’s arrival in port.
It took us all of 20 minutes to prepare the files they required us to upload, complete and submit two applications, and pay for the visas. No sooner was the credit card payment approved that we each heard a ding on our phones … heralding the arrival of our approved visas via email. Easy peasy.Читать далее
Barcelona: Spanish Farewell Pinchos
1 ноября 2023 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F
No, we are not leaving Spain yet. We still have a number of Spanish ports to call on before we begin the crossing to the USA. But this segment of our 26-day cruise has the fancy name of “Spanish Farewell.” So, we thought we’d celebrate it with pinchos.
It was the glimpse of Sagrada Famiglia, the famous Gaudi church — under construction since 1882 — that reminded that we had to get a move on. No, we weren’t planning to visit the church. But we had a 4-mile walk back to the port bus stop and our route would be taking us by Sagrada.
Mui had in mind that we’d have tapas somewhere along our walking route. But after checking out a few places, we decided to go to an old favorite — La Tasqueta de Blai. We’d already walked a couple of miles when we made this decision. Instead of continuing on foot, we grabbed a taxi just so we wouldn’t have to rush through a pitcher of sangria to wash down the goodies we were bound to find there.
La Tasqueta is not a tapas place so much as it is a “pincho bar.” The food comes in individual-bites that you select from the display. You then take your dish to a table — in our case, to one on the pavement outside. Each pincho has a pin that you remove and place in a cup. The pins denote the price of each item and the server uses them to calculate the bill. We got a selection of pinchos, an order of patatas bravas, and a pitcher of sangria to wash it all down. Delicious.
After our meal, we went next door to a gelateria for a sweet treat to enjoy on the walk to the port bus stop. Our plan had been to be on a bus back to the ship around 3:00p. We were a little early at 2:30p, but that bought us some time to take care of business relating to our Australia Panorama cruise before we sailed away from Barcelona and lost our data signal.
Perfect timing as we were done with our work just as Oosterdam moved out of its berth to head to our next Spanish port of call.Читать далее
Barcelona Spain … Day 2: Sant Pau
1 ноября 2023 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F
It was 9:00a by the time we left the ship. Most of our shipmates were already long gone. Some because Barcelona was the end of the cruise for them. Others because they were on tours that had an early start. Not us … we planned to have an easy-going day.
As we did yesterday, we took the port bus out to the Barcelona World Trade Center. Then we hopped in a taxi to take us to a hospital. Not just any hospital, mind you, but to one that is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Owned by the Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau Foundation, the Sant Pau Art Nouveau site — Sant Pau, for short — is described in the brochure that we were given as a “… jewel of Modernista architecture.” The institution was built between 1902-1930 by architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner, and served as a hospital from 1916 to 2009 when the new hospital went into service.
But don’t let these dates fool you. The hospital and city have a shared history of over six centuries. Santa Creu was founded in 1401 as the general hospital for the Catalan capital, and evolved over the centuries, playing a vital role in the modernization of the city and Catalonia. The one difference? The original hospital was an example of Gothic architecture; the one we visited today is an example of Modernisme … as Catalan Art Nouveau is known.
We explored the site in total awe, flabbergasted by the amazing decorative details everywhere … in and on buildings that were designed to provide medical services. That the site deserves its UNESCO inscription goes without saying. Not all of the buildings were open for visitors to check out … not all have been restored to their former glory. The ones that have, however … well, mamma mia!
We wandered the grounds around which the free-standing buildings sit, connected by at least a half mile worth of tunnels through which patients and doctors used to move easily … and supplies used to be brought into the facility. Gardens and conservatories provided a place for ambulatory patients and their visitors to meet, stroll, and rest. The spacious facilities at every turn were a clear indication of how the wellbeing of patients was of foremost importance at Sant Pau.
The piéce de resistance, however, was the Administration Building. Its clock tower and band of mosaic scenes around the exterior were impressive enough, but the interior beat all that in spades. From the pink-tiled, domed ceiling of the foyer; to the octagonal stained glass skylight in the center of the ceiling over the main staircase; to the beautiful glass and tile work in the Domènech i Montaner Room … which had an impressive view of the grounds; to the gallery with its incredible tile ceiling and wall of glass doors letting in the clear light of the day.
An awe inspiring site … and just wow!Читать далее

ПутешественникI love the detailed descriptions you provide. It must be your photographer’s eye.

Two to Travel… or photos of signage and brochures 😆. Joking aside, thank your reading the details ... if the rate at which likes show up sometimes is anything to go by, very few do.
Barcelona: Tapas @ Las Alcoba Azul
31 октября 2023 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F
It was almost 5:00p when we left the museum. Mui had found us a place for tapas, but it wasn’t scheduled to open until 6:00p. Nonetheless, we decided to head in that direction, meandering along the way. Good thing we did. The guys who operate the tapateria directed us to their sister property next door — Las Alcoba Azul — which was already serving.
As it was breezy and cool — and would likely get downright chilly as the evening progressed — we opted against sitting on the sidewalk and took a table inside. Though it was still early by Barcelona standards, the place filled up pretty quickly … a sign of Las Alcoba’s popularity despite its location off the beaten path.
The building in which the restaurant is located is very narrow. The entrance area is just big enough for a bar and a row of tables along the side wall. Just past the galley-style kitchen was a step up that led to a long hallway-like room. It was here that we were seated. The stone walls added an interesting ambiance; the remaining walls were distressed to add to the aged-look of the place. Frankly, at first glance, the place looked like a dump. If it wasn’t for the highly-rated reviews, we might have wondered what the heck we were doing there.
We ordered a pitcher of sangria to start. Perusing the menu, we selected a bunch of dishes … starting with a half-order of jamon Iberico and pan con tomate [Iberian ham and bread with tomatoes]. These were the only two dishes that were served together … all of the other dishes were brought to the table one at a time, the server matching the delivery of food to our eating pace … which was slow. We also had chicken satay with a peanut sauce; accordion potatoes that were exceptionally delicious … with the two sauces (one spicy) on the side at our request; and a toast of bacon and brie topped with crushed nuts. All delicious.
Another meandering stroll took us back to the port shuttle stop and we were back on the ship by 8:30p. Time to rest up for another day in Barcelona tomorrow .Читать далее

ПутешественникWe are going to be in Barcelona for three days in April. This restaurant is 500m from our hotel. We will definitely check it out!

Two to TravelI think you’ll enjoy it. If you are on your own and have not been to the St Pau Hospital (coming up in the next footprint), I highly recommend it.
Barcelona: Museu Frederic Marès
31 октября 2023 г., Испания
Around the corner from the Barcelona Cathedral is the Museu Frederic Marès.
Marès was a sculptor … quoted as having said that he makes sculptures to buy sculptures. He is known as the “… most distinguished Catalan collector of the 20th century.” In addition to donating to the museum a small number of his own sculptures, which we found in what was once the library-study of the old Royal Palace of the Counts of Barcelona, he turned over his collections to the city in 1946.
On the top two floors, where we started our visit, are displays that are part of the “Collector’s Cabinet.” There are tens of thousand of pieces in the Cabinet … making up a series of collections that “document past lifestyles and customs, mainly from the 19th century.”
Such variety of items left us in wonder … toys, wrought iron works, weapons, photographs, timepieces, ceramics and glassware, and more. The women’s hall had everything from hundreds of fans to purses to gloves to bouquet-holders that women carried in their hands. The collection of pipes in the Smoker’s Hall were like miniature sculptures in meerschaum.
The remaining floors exhibit a collection of sculptures … mostly religious in nature … from ancient times to the 19th century.
Perhaps the most amazing part of our visit to the museum was the fact that there were very few people sharing the experience with us. Talk about being off the beaten path … in the heart of Barcelona.Читать далее
Barcelona, Spain: Basilica & Cathedral
31 октября 2023 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F
Our day started with a morning at sea.
It was great to be able to relax a bit before arriving in Barcelona for our overnight stay … especially since I knew that no matter what we said about taking it easy in Barcelona, we would likely not be doing so.
Once Oosterdam was tied up and cleared, we disembarked, made our way through the terminal, and walked over to the stop from where we knew the blue port shuttle would be picking up passengers. Within minutes, we were on the bus, purchasing €4.50/pp day passes from the driver. The drive to the Barcelona World Trade Center, the drop-off & pick-up location for the shuttle, was no more than 10 minutes and soon we were off for a wander.
Having been to Barcelona numerous times, and not wanting to battle the crowds at the popular sites, our plan was to get lost (on purpose) in the side streets of Las Ramblas and see where our feet would take us.
Our aimless stroll found us in the Gothic Center, and the Basilica of Our Lady of Mercy. The tiled dome had us going inside to check it out … and the sign advising that the “Mother of God of the Mercy” could only be visited when mass was not being said led me upstairs to a window from which I was able to get an aerial shot of the interior of the basilica.
Continuing to then follow meandering streets crowded with tourists, we made our way to the Barcelona Cathedral. Since we had never checked it out in all the times we’ve visited the city, we paid the admission to enter … mostly for a chance to go up to the roof for views of Barcelona from high above. There were indeed views … but they were limited because the walkway across the ridge of the roof was undergoing restoration.
C’est la vie. Or as the Spanish might say, “Así es la vida.”Читать далее

ПутешественникI am always amazed at your magnificent photos of interior spaces of cathedrals and museums. I sometimes wish I could follow you around as you shoot. Loved doing that in Grants Pass.

Two to TravelThanks … I don’t do anything special really … especially not now that I am just using the iPhone.
Cannes, France
30 октября 2023 г., Франция
Cannes … the only “new-to-us” port on this cruise.
Luckily, the sea state cooperated and we were able to get ashore on the tender boats. It was a cool, gloomy day, with rain spritzing throughout. Of course, every time we opened the umbrella, the spritzing stopped. No complaints, however … could have been worse.
By 9:50a, we were starting the slightly-steep hike up to Le Suquet. Suquet, which means “the Summit” in the Occitan language, is where Cannes was first founded. The area’s history, however, dates back to the Ligurian people who occupied this part of France in antiquity.
Our destination was Musée de la Castre, an art and historic artifacts museum housed in the medieval fortress atop the hill. Turns out that we had completely spaced out that it was Monday. Thus, the museum was closed. No matter. Lovely aerial views from the terrace made the climb worth while … as well as the ubiquitous big letters for a selfie op.
Walking through an arched gateway in the bell/clock tower, we found the Église Notre-Dame d’Espérance. A lovely little church with its entrance built into the fortifications. Construction of the church, which replaced an earlier one, began in 1521, but the work continued sporadically and took some 120 years to complete. A surprise find in the church was a painting by Raphael … located in the Sacred Heart Chapel.
From the church, we headed down into the shopping district. Walking past the Cannes Cathedral, we took a quick peek and found it less impressive than the church in Suquet … except for the beautiful stained glass windows.
Our route next took us out to La Croisette, the over 1-mile long waterfront promenade overlooking the beach clubs that, during the season, are packed with people — famous and not — who are in Cannes to see and be seen. La Croisette is best known for the Palais des Festivals where the Cannes Film Festival is hosted … closed today.
The beach clubs along the promenade were all locked up, tall berms of sand placed along the edge of the water to protect the structures from the winter storms that come ashore. On the way back, we walked along the other side of the road, peeking into all the expensive brand stores along the way … prices sky high; displays showing the latest runway fashions; well-dressed guards prominently positioned near the door, determining who could enter and who could not.
Our return stroll took us through streets lined with more modestly-priced though no less elegant shops, cafés, bistros, and patisseries. Even in the off season, these streets were crowded with locals … and of course, passengers off the only ship in port today … ours.
We had already decided that we wanted crepês for lunch. The question was … where? Google to the rescue. Mui found a highly rated bistro on the waterfront — Atelier Artisanal Crêpier. Despite the on again/off again rain, the tables on the sidewalk were nearly all taken, but we lucked out with one in the corner … under the protection of a large market umbrella.
Perusing the menu, we settled on savory crêpes … Bernard … filled with pickled eggplant and zucchini; fresh rocket and cherry tomatoes … and topped with a burrata on a bed of thinly-sliced speck. The burrata was presented through a hole in the center of the crêpe … decorative and creative. A glass of pinot noir completed our meal.
Though we were tempted by the offering of sweet crêpes on the menu, we opted to walk a short ways to a highly-rated gelateria instead — Niva … a Torino-based company. OMG! We both agree that it was categorically the best gelato ever. The good news? They have a shop in Lisbon, so if we are lucky, we’ll have another chance at this deliciousness.
After our sweet treat, we slowly made our way back to the tender pier. By 2:40p, we were on the tender, heading back to Oosterdam.
On the ship, we enjoyed some quiet time, making the most of the cell signal from shore. I was able to sit out on the veranda for a bit, but it grew windy and turned chilly quite quickly. It got worse when Oosterdam shifted around to put the starboard tenders in the lee so that they could be raised and secured in their davits.
By 5:15p, Oosterdam was on the move … leaving France behind. Next stop … Spain.Читать далее
Livorno, Italy: Florence … A Quick Look
29 октября 2023 г., Италия ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F
This was not our first time porting in Livorno!
In fact, we’ve called on Livorno three times before. Though it is considered the port for Florence — 1.5 hours away by car — we’ve always opted to explore other parts of Tuscany that are closer to the port. That changed today.
Though we prefer exploring on our own, we decided that the distance — and the fact that going it alone would cost us more in €’s and time — warranted a ship’s tour. Not a guided one, mind you. We booked a hosted transfer designed for those who prefer to explore on their own.
Our bus departed the port exactly at 8:00a. Though our route was via the less-than-scenic highway, it was fast … hardly any traffic to hinder our progress. Arriving in Florence at 9:30a, we stayed with the group just long enough to get to Piazza Santa Croce … our meet-up point at the end of the 5½ hours we were given to take a look around the city.
Mui had been to Florence before. It was my first time. The city has a number of must-see places. But for this short day, we had decided not to visit any particular place … not to battle the crowds and long queues at the iconic locales. Rather, we would just meander around at will. That’s not to say we didn’t have any idea of what we wanted to do. We did. And it worked out perfectly.
Hopping in a cab from Santa Croce, we headed across the Arno River to San Miniato al Monte … aka St Minias on the Mountain. This beautiful Romanesque style basilica — I overheard a guide saying that construction of the church began in 1013 — has a white marble façade that is inlaid with green marble. The geometric design, which is believed to date back to 1090, was the first time such a dramatic style was used in Florence … but not the last time as we would later see when we walked by the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore.
Though we did wander around the grounds at Miniato and took a peek inside before mass commenced, the reason we started our sightseeing here was the postcard-view of Florence. Truly amazing.
We later saw a slightly closer view of the same scenery from a bit further down … from the Piazzale Michelangelo Terrace. But that first glimpse of Florence laid out at our feet from Miniato was perfect. It was the view from here that helped us appreciate just how much Brunelleschi’s dome at the cathedral dominates the center of Florence. No wonder it is referred to as the “Red Hat of Firenze.”
From the terrace, where we also saw the bronze version of Michelangelo’s famous “David” … which our bus hostess referred to as “David #3,” we took a meandering path down to the Arno and slowly made our way towards the Ponte Vecchio, stopping often to take photos.
Just before we arrived at the “Old Bridge,” we spotted a small balcony jutting out over the Arno. We figured it would make a good spot for a selfie since it had a perfect view of Ponte Vecchio. Turns out that the balcony was part of a wine bar/restaurant … Signorvino … cantina con cucina.
The manager — Katerina — allowed us to go on the balcony for a selfie op, so there was no reason for us to stay and have lunch there afterwards. Except that it was the perfect spot from which to enjoy a meal-with-a-view … Ponte Vecchio ahead … the Uffizi across the Arno to the right. And the wine and food were very good, too.
After lunch, we strolled across — or more accurately, battled our way through the crowds packing Ponte Vecchio, which spans the Arno at its narrowest point. The most widely recognized icon of the city, it is also the only bridge in Florence that was not destroyed during WWII. Historians believe that it is situated at the spot where a bridge has always stood … from as far back as the Roman Period. The current bridge has been there since the 1340s.
Meandering our way through narrow, crowded streets, we made our way to Galleria dell’Accademia at Piazza della Signoria. We had no plans to go inside. But Mui wanted to show me the copy of David that stands in the piazza — described by the bus hostess as “David #2.” One day, when we return for an extended stay, we’ll get to see “David #1.”
Next on our stroll, we came to the jaw-droppingly beautiful Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore … with its intricately designed marble façade and red dome. The Baptistery of St John stood nearby. Awe inspiring would be a good description of the collection of structures that make up the cathedral complex.
After wandering around the Piazza del Duomo, we stopped at an artisanal gelateria to pick up a delicious treat to enjoy as we gazed in wonder at the cathedral and the buildings around us. Having now seen the Brunelleschi Dome from every direction, I recalled how our bus hostess told us that he had destroyed the plans for it once the construction was completed. To this day, it remains a wonder of architecture.
We returned to Piazza Santa Croce shortly before 2:30p and found our meeting point, the leather goods shop named Michelangelo. Since we had time, we went inside for a quick look-see … the prices already having determined that we would not be shopping there.
The bus was on the move as scheduled at 3:00p, though a detour up to the Michelangelo Terrace for a “look without getting off the bus” delayed our departure from Florence. Luckily, Mui and I had stopped at the terrace on our own, so we didn’t share the disappointment experienced by our tour mates when they were not allowed off the bus.
The return ride to Livorno was accomplished just as smoothly as the morning ride out to Florence. No real traffic to hinder us. We arrived at the port and were getting off the bus by 5:00p.
This was our last port of call in Italy … onto France next.Читать далее

ПутешественникWhen were in Florence for a day in October 2018, the crowds around the main attractions were unbearable. So, we did what you did and found some amazing uncrowded corners of this amazing city. And, sharing gelato and coffee with locals in a square in front of Basilica of Santa Maria Novella was more enjoyable - and cheaper😀.
Back to Civitaveccia
28 октября 2023 г., Италия ⋅ 🌙 70 °F
We entered Roma Termini through the main doors since we had no idea which platform our train would be departing from. Turns out that it was from binario 25 … in the same area where we detrained this morning at binario 28.
The access doors to those platforms from inside Termini were all locked up. So, we had to detour through the shopping area and then had to run to make the train on time. Had we entered the way we exited Termini this morning — through a side door — we would have saved ourselves a whole bunch of running.
Nonetheless, we made the train with two minutes to spare and hopped on the first car we came to. Even as the train began moving, we were using the interior access doors to make our way forward to an upper seating area where we were the only passengers for most of the way to Civitavecchia. Luckily, we had validated our tickets when we first came out to the platforms. Otherwise, we would have missed the train for sure.
It was 6:15p when we detrained at Civitavecchia Station. We had over two hours before all aboard. So, instead of taking the port connection bus back to the ship, we walked back to the Della Pace shuttle station. Rather than following the waterfront, however, we walked along the wide pavement lined with shops and restaurants … the latter filled with people enjoying a night out on town We took our time, enjoying the Saturday night, party-time ambiance of the city. We even stopped at Bar Danilo, where we always get gelato when we are in Civitavecchia … a sweet treat to wrap up our day.
We arrived at Della Pace to find it deserted. At least that was the impression we got. But seeing someone walking in ahead of us, we followed. The attendant, who was sitting in his car, watching a soccer game on his phone, asked if we were headed to Oosterdam. At our confirming nod, he checked our ship IDs and directed us to the appropriate lane to wait for the next bus … which arrived about 10 minutes later. Whew! No need to walk back into town to catch the port connection.
It was a little after 7:30p when we embarked the ship … with still an hour to spare before the stated all aboard … plenty of time to enjoy the veranda.
Oosterdam moved out of its berth at 9:08p … slightly behind schedule.
No matter, we don’t have that far to go to get to Livorno … our last port of call in Italy,Читать далее

Two to TravelThe good news is that we could have caught one of the later trains, but then we would have had to kill time at Termini.
Rome: … of the Angels & Martyrs
28 октября 2023 г., Италия ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F
Leaving the Capuchin Monastery behind, we plugged Termini Station into the GPS. The time for bidding Rome “alla prossima” [until next time] was fast approaching.
When Google routed us via Piazza dell’Esedra — aka Piazza della Repubblica — we could not resist one last stop … at the Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, which has a unique exterior. We’d passed by the church many times on past visits to Rome, but had never gone inside. Now was the time to do so.
The name of the church translates as the Basilica of St Mary of the Angels and Martyrs. Built into the Roman period ruins of the frigidarium of Diocletian’s Baths, it dates back to the 16th century. Though several architects have had a hand in the current look of the church, the original blueprint belonged to Michelangelo. It is dedicated to all Christian martyrs … known and unknown, and is the church of choice for ceremonies … especially funerals for soldiers killed abroad.
We found the interior to be vast … far more spacious than the exterior led us to believe it would be. We did only a quick look-see, however, since we wanted to get on the 5:12p train back to Civitavecchia and the sands of time were running out. We’ll have to stop in again when we next find ourselves in Rome and look for the Meridian Line commissioned to be built inside the church by Pope Clement XI at the beginning of the 18th century.Читать далее
Rome: Il Convento dei Cappuccini
28 октября 2023 г., Италия ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F
While it was tempting to visit another section of Museo di Roma, it was already past 3:30p. Our time in the city was dwindling. Instead, we decided to check out the museum and ossuary at the Il Convento dei Cappuccini … near Piazza Barberini … just 5 minutes away.
On arrival, we first went into the church, the cornerstone of which was laid in 1626 … soon after construction of the monastery began. Pope Urban VIII celebrated the first mass at the church four years later.
After a quick peek inside the church, we went to the office next door to purchase our admission to the museum and crypt. Our tickets included an audio guide and the caution that no photos were allowed in either the museum or the crypt. While the museum did hold some interesting items, it was the ossuary crypt that we really wanted to see, so we didn’t dally long at the exhibits.
In 1631, the capuchin monks left the monastery of Saint Bonaventure, located near the Trevi Fountain, to take up residence at this monastery. The remains of the deceased monks were transported and “arranged” here soon after. The bones were organized in a certain order along the walls, and monks and poor Romans began to be buried in the crypt, the latter in the sepulcher under the floor of the chapel where mass is celebrated.
We walked along a 90-foot long corridor, flanked by six rooms … five of which are filled with skeletal remains. The exception is the chapel where mass is celebrated. Iron bars keep visitors from entering the rooms while at the same time allowing clear views of the “morbidly fascinating art.”
The audio guide explained that the “art on display” was created from the remains of around 3,700 dead persons, mainly Capuchin monks. The “ingenious artist” who created it all remains unknown as no documentation on the origins of the work has survived. All that is known is that the first mention of “niches, vaults, ceiling ornaments with regular and pleasing designs, lamps, crosses, etc” came from Marquis de Sade who visited the crypt in 1775.
The corridor guided us into a gift shop … which felt weird considering where we’d just been. Since I had no photos of the crypt, however, I looked at the postcards available and purchased a couple. I really do wish I could have taken a couple of photos of my own as the postcards left a lot to be desired. But it is what it is.Читать далее

ПутешественникI studied 4 yrs of Latin and Roman history. Your pics bring fond memories of those times as I tried to conjugate verbs in Latin. UGH!
Rome: Lunch @ Hosteria Romana
28 октября 2023 г., Италия ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F
We left Palazzo Braschi at 1:40p. Time to get some food.
But not any old place would do. No, we had a specific place in mind and it was 20 minutes away. It was a place called Hosteria Romana, which we had lucked into after our visit to Palazzo Barberini in 2018.
We walked along packed streets, zig-zagging around tourists either lallygagging or waiting in long queues to get into one or another of the popular sites. Winding our way past Fontana di Trevi, where I could not resist a quick photo op over the heads of the wall of people on all sides of the fountain, we finally arrived at the restaurant.
With no reservations, we had to wait about 15 minutes, but we knew the food would be worth it. After all, it’s not for nothing that the locals come to the place in droves.
There was no question as to what I was going to order — cacio e pepe … the pasta dish that is a particular specialty of Rome. It’s a simple dish … just pasta with a cheese and black pepper sauce. But done right … well, mamma Mia! Mui ordered a carbonara with a small side salad and was very happy with both choices. Vino de tavolo [table wine] washed down the delicious bites of pasta and a tiramisu wrapped up our meal.
Thus sated, we opened Google Maps to figure out what to do next.Читать далее

ПутешественникYou have a wonderful history of targeted places to go and revisit for those memorable meals and sites. You're focused!
Rome: Museo di Roma … Palazzo Braschi
28 октября 2023 г., Италия ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F
By the time we left Palazzo Altemps, it was past noon. We wanted to visit one more palazzo/museum before we went in search of lunch.
Museo di Roma’s Palazzo Braschi, located on the far side of Piazza Navona, seemed like the most convenient choice.
Palazzo Braschi is considered a fine example of 18th-19th century civil architecture in Rome. It was built for the nephew of Pope Pius VI … Luigi Braschi Onesti. In addition to the frescoes that decorate many of the rooms, the palazzo is known for its excellent acoustics.
This museum had more paintings and panel-based art on display than sculptures. I have to admit I paid more attention to the frescoed rooms and elaborate ceilings here than I did to the art. Luckily, of the two floors we focused on, the third floor had a small number of exhibits and the rooms were not decorated …otherwise we never would have made it out for lunch.
One of the highlights of this museum had nothing to do with the art or the palazzo, however. Rather, it was the amazing aerial views of Piazza Navona from the windows on the third floor … picture-postcard perfect.Читать далее
Rome: MNR … Palazzo Altemps
28 октября 2023 г., Италия
Leaving Roma Termini Station, Mui programmed the Museo Nazionale into his phone and we followed a bunch of back streets to get there. Turns out the directions took us to a museum housed in Palazzo Barberini … one that we had visited in 2018.
What to do now? Why, visit the Museo Nazionale Romano instead. (That’s the MNR in the title of the footprint.) The museum, founded in 1899, is now made up of a number of locations. We’d been to Villa Giulia in 2018. Now to check out the site near Piazza Navona.
Plugging Palazzo Altemps into Google Maps, we got our bearings and figured we could walk the 20-minute distance instead of fiddling with metro tickets. It was a pleasant walk that took us along streets familiar to us … a fun, reminiscing-sort-of walk … one during which we stopped at a café for Mui to do as Italians do and grab an espresso while standing at the bar That the streets weren’t packed with tourists yet was a bonus.
Palazzo Altemps was designed in the 15th century for a relation of Pope Sixtus IV. In 1569, it was sold to Cardinal Altemps, who made further improvements to the palazzo. The family continued to live in the palazzo until it became a property of the Holy See in the 19th century. It was then used as a seminary for a short period of time. The palazzo was granted to the Italian state in 1982. Fifteen years later, after restoration work was completed, it was inaugurated as a museum in 1997
What I really like about the pallazos-turned-museums is that often, in addition to the art on display, there are beautiful ceilings and frescoed walls to enjoy. This palazzo was no different.
My favorite of the rooms at Altemps was actually the painted loggia. Commissioned in the mid 1590s, the ambiance of the loggia is of a secret garden … done in the trompe-l’oeil illusionistic painting style. The similarity between the frescoes here and the drawings Raphael made for tapestries commissioned by Pope Leo X would seem to indicate that the artist was inspired by Raphael’s work. The loggia was where the Altemps’s collection of the portraits of the Twelve Caesars was once displayed. Today, of the twelve busts on display in their place, only eight are thought to be actual representations of Roman emperors.
The exhibits at the Altemps were mostly large-scale statues … with a small collection of artifacts of antiquity in glass cases on the ground floor. That the next museum we visited leaned more towards paintings was not a conscious choice on our part, but served to balance our day nonetheless.Читать далее






































































































































































































































































