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Ahmet Erkun
Ahmet Erkun

Ahmet Erkun

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    Cupola and café ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.
    A banquette rims the oculus through which visitors in the rotunda can look up to the cupola ... KHM.Looking up into the cupola from the café ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.The view from our bistro at the café ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.Yummy lunch at the café at the museum ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.

    Vienna: Lunch at Café im KHM

    15 oktober 2024, österrike ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Our feet begging for a little bit of time-out. Our tummies grumbling. Yup … time for a quick bite before continuing to explore the Kunsthistorisches Historisches Museum.

    Rather than leave the KHM, we decided to dine at the café in the museum.

    We had noticed the café — on the first floor of the KHM — when we went up to the second floor to take photos from the small balconies rimming the bottom edge of the cupola. What a setting! Situated immediately below the cupola; the oculus through which one can look up from the rotunda in the center of the hall; a black and white marble floor similar to the one in the rotunda … but with a different geometric pattern; marble columns topped in gold in the fancy Corinthian style; the red velvet seating adding a pop of color.

    There was no doubt about the elegant setting. But would the food measure up?

    Rather than sitting on the red banquette that surrounds the oculus, we opted for a bistro-style table next to the windows behind the arches, thus adding a view of the Maria-Theresien-Platz to our meal. Too bad that the mesh filter didn’t allow for a clear shot!

    Though we could have dallied at the café, sipping our hot beverages and enjoying the ambiance, the clock was continuing to tick down. So, we perused the menu, gave our order, and once our tummies were sated, off we went to continue exploring the museum.

    By the way … yes, the food did measure up, though I would have preferred my soup to be a little hotter. Mui finally got to eat some Wieners before leaving Wien! No complaints on his part.    Läs mer

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    Antonio Canova's "Theseus Group" ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.
    Gustav Klimt paintings in the Grand Staircase ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.Wendell Lewy's "Holy Elisabeth" ... the flowers depict the Miracle of the Roses." — KHM, Vienna.Bernardo Belloto's "The Freyung n Vienna ... from the Southeast" ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.M.L.E. Vigée-Lebrun's "Archduchess Marie-Antoinette, Queen of France" ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.Jacobo Tintoretto's "Susanna Bathing" ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.Raffael's "Holy Family with the Young John" ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.Giuseppe Arcimboldo's "Water" ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.Bust of a child (Roman Imperial Period [1st-2nd c.]; nose and bust added in the 16th c.) by unknown.Caravaggio's "David with Goliath's Head" ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.Robert van den Hoecke's "Skating on the Moat in Brussels" ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.Mui contemplating a Rubens painting ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.Peter Paul Rubens's sketch of "The Miracles of St Francis Xavier" ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.Lucas I. Van Valkenborch's "Winter Landscape (January or February)" ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.Lucas I. Van Valkenborch's "Spring Landscape (May)" ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.David Terniers's "Popinjay Shooting in Brussels" ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.Peter Paul Rubens's "The Infant Christ with John the Baptist & Two Angels" ... KHM — Vienna, AustriaPieter Bruegel the Elders's "Tower of Babel" ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.Ben Cacciatori's "Madonna" ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.

    Vienna: KHM … Paintings & Sculptures

    15 oktober 2024, österrike ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    The Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien galleries exhibit several collections. Most belonged to the Habsburgs, and as noted in the previous footprint, they are the reason why the museum was founded.

    The collections at the purpose-built museum are categorized as Egyptian & Near Eastern; Greek & Roman Antiquities; Picture Gallery; Kunstkammer Wien [Vienna Art Chamber]; and Coins. There are other collections as well, but they are exhibited in affiliated museums — Historic Musical Instruments; Imperial Armoury; Ephesos; Temple of Theseus. Of the latter, we had already visited the last two; had no real interest in the first two. So, our focus today was strictly on the exhibits in the purpose-built museum.

    We started out by climbing up the grand staircase to the first floor (what we would consider the 2nd floor in the US). It took us a while to do so as the staircase itself is like a gallery of art … paintings and sculptures adorning it. At the top of the first set of steps, we were greeted by Antonio Canova’s “Theseus Group” … depicting the defeat of the centaur by Theseus. If you’ve noted that the name of this sculpture is the same as the Temple of Theseus in the Volksgarten, there is indeed a connection. The temple was built to house this sculpture until it was moved to the KHM building.

    Something else that had us dallying on the grand staircase was the paintings … particularly those by Gustav Klimt. At one point, there was apparently a temporary bridge erected so that visitors could get a better view of the paintings. Well, that’s no more. And, unfortunately, I didn’t bring my long lens with me, so I had to make do with just viewing the paintings from afar. (Until, that is, I found a series of photos in the KHM digital collection that I was able to download.)

    Eventually, we arrived at the Picture Gallery, the walls of which are lined with secular and ecclesiastical works. The collection exhibited here has its foundation in the 17th century, but also includes 16th century Venetian paintings by masters such as Tintoretto and Titian; Flemish masters such as Rubens and Van Dyck; German Renaissance masters such as Dürer and Cranach. The museum also holds a collection of paintings by Pieter Bruegel the Elder — including the “Tower of Babel” — that is considered unique worldwide. And then there are the works of Rembrandt, Raffael, Caravaggio, and many, many others.

    We spent about two hours at the Picture Gallery, leaving only because (1) we were getting hungry; and (2) we still had the rest of the museum to explore. Sure, our ship wasn’t due to leave until nearly midnight. But the museum didn’t care about that and would be closing much earlier.    Läs mer

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    The Kunsthistorisches Museum — Vienna, Austria.
    Decorations on the façade ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.The rotunda from one of the side staircases ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.Rotunda ceiling and the oculus that allows a glimpse of the marvelous cupola ... KMW — Vienna.The grand staircase from the rotunda to the galleries ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.The cupola ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.The double-headed eagle was the emblem of the Habsburgs ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.Ceiling detail ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.An inside staircase ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.Ceiling detail ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.One of the galleries and the ceiling detail ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.Ceiling detail ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.Ceiling detail ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.Ceiling detail ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.Ceiling detail ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.Arched doorways between galleries ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.Ceiling detail ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.Ceiling detail ... KHM — Vienna, Austria.KHM's twin ... Naturhistorisches Museum across the Maria-Theresien-Platz ... from a window at KHM.

    Vienna: KHM … Mostly the Ceilings

    15 oktober 2024, österrike ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien [Vienna Museum of Art History] is one of the world’s foremost fine arts museum. One that everyone said was not-to-be-missed. One that we were told would take at least a day to explore … and even then, would leave us wondering what we might have missed.

    So, we set today aside for this museum … the perfect cap to our time in Vienna.

    We arrived at KHM just before it opened at 10:00a. There was a long line of people buying tickets. But we were able to bypass it and go straight inside since we had pre-purchased our admission before we left home.

    The KHM was built for one purpose — to exhibit under one roof the imperial art collections of the Habsburgs, which Emperor Franz Joseph I wanted to make accessible to the public. Together with its twin — the Naturhistorisches Museum — it is one of the grand buildings lining the Rinstraße.

    Plans for building the museum began in 1857, but it wasn’t until 1871 that construction began. It took 20 years for the KHM to be completed … but, oh what a building it turned out to be … with a Renaissance Revival style sandstone façade lined with arched windows and decorated with statues and reliefs; an octagonal dome some 200 feet high; a grand rotunda with marble walls, columns, and floors; an oculus in the rotunda ceiling allowing a peek at the cupola; a staircase worthy of a palace leading up from the rotunda to the galleries; gold leaf and mural decorations on the ceilings of the halls and galleries; a balcony rimming the cupola for up close views of the highly decorated walls.

    And then, of course, the particular treasures of the building … the art.

    But this footprint is about the building … mostly the amazing ceilings we saw as we explored the exhibits.    Läs mer

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    The Church of St Francis of Assisi ... aka the Mexico Church — Vienna, Austria.
    The Church of St Francis of Assisi ... aka the Mexico Church — Vienna, Austria.The dome of the Church of St Francis of Assisi — Vienna, Austria.The Church of St Francis of Assisi ... aka the Mexico Church — Vienna, Austria.Rose window at the Church of St Francis of Assisi ... aka the Mexico Church — Vienna, Austria.The Church of St Francis of Assisi ... aka the Mexico Church — Vienna, Austria.The Elizabeth Chapel @ the Church of St Francis of Assisi ... aka the Mexico Church — Vienna.The brass chandelier at the Elizabeth Chapel @ the Church of St Francis of Assisi — Vienna.Mosaic dome of the Elizabeth Chapel @ the Church of St Francis of Assisi — Vienna.Detail from the dome of the Elizabeth Chapel @ the Church of St Francis of Assisi — Vienna.The baptismal font @ the Church of St Francis of Assisi — Vienna.The Church of St Francis of Assisi — Vienna, Austria.The Church of St Francis of Assisi — Vienna, Austria.

    Vienna: Mexico Church

    15 oktober 2024, österrike ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    Our morning routine was a duplicate of yesterday … though we were a few minutes later getting off the Rinda this morning. It was more than a little chilly … the wind exacerbating the feels-like temperature. Bundled up, however, we were ready to make the most of our last day in Vienna.

    The Uber driver who brought us from the Handelskai Metro Station to the Rinda two days ago, had pointed out what he called the Mexico Church before making the turn into the port. Formally, this place of worship is the St Francis of Assisi Church … also referred to as the Emperor’s Jubilee Church because its construction was timed to coincide with the 50th anniversary of the reign of Franz Joseph I.

    The basilica-style church — which, frankly, looks more like a castle from some fairytale — is located on Mexikoplatz [Mexico Square]. The Uber driver had said that the church was built to honor King Maximilian von Mexico, the brother of Emperor Franz Joseph I. I have, however, been unable to verify that. That said, I have confirmed that the square was so named to commemorate Mexico being the only country, except for the USSR, to protest against the annexation of Austria to Nazi Germany in 1938.

    Our initial attempts to check out the church were foiled by logistics the first two days after embarking Rinda. First it was a timing issue … the church is only open between 8:00a and noon. Then it was a matter of being on the wrong side of the Reichsbrücke [Imperial Bridge], which would have necessitated back tracking to get to the church.

    Today, we made a concerted effort to walk under the bridge and take the access path on the opposite side so that we could stop by the church on our way to the metro station. Strolling thorough the park, we arrived at the church to find the main door and landing blocked by a homeless camp. At first, we thought we would not be able to get inside, but after circumnavigating the building, we were able to gain access through a side door.

    The church, with a few exceptions, is not heavily decorated. The Elizabeth Chapel, which is in the style of Romanesque Revival, is quite another matter. The chapel was added to the transept as a memorial to Sisi after she was assassinated in Geneva, Switzerland in 1898. The funds for the chapel were raised by special donations to the Red Cross … Sisi was a patron of the organization.

    The Austrian people donated a vast sum for their beloved Sisi. This allowed for the chapel to be decorated with mosaics instead of frescoes … and for marble to be used for the walls instead of stucco. The brass chandelier reminded me of one of the crowns we saw at the Imperial Treasury a few days ago … but I have been unable to ascertain if the design was intentional … or if it was just my imagination.

    Unfortunately, the wrought iron gate in front of the chapel was locked and barred entrance. So, we had to look at the amazing details from afar. The lights were off, as well, making photography quite challenging. I had to be a bit of a contortionist to get the right angles through the bars of the gate, but I managed some decent shots.

    It was after 9:00a when we left the church and continued our walk to the Vorgartenstraße metro station to begin our sightseeing in earnest.    Läs mer

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    The Capuchin Church sits over the Imperial Crypt — Vienna, Austria.
    Kapuzinergruft ... Kaiser Matthias, Holy Roman Emperor, and his wife Kaiserin Anna — Vienna, AustriaKapuzinergruft ... Kaiser Joseph I — Vienna, Austria.Kapuzinergruft ... dual sarcophagus of Emperor Franz & Empress Maria Theresa — Vienna, Austria.Kapuzinergruft ... detail from the dual sarcophagus of Emperor Franz & Empress Maria Theresa.Kapuzinergruft ... detail from the dual sarcophagus of Emperor Franz & Empress Maria Theresa.Kapuzinergruft ... detail from the dual sarcophagus of Emperor Franz & Empress Maria Theresa.Kapuzinergruft ... Dome of the Maria Theresa Vault .Kapuzinergruft ... Note the small casket of Archduchess Christine under her mother's sarcophagus.Kapuzinergruft ... Kaiser Franz II — Vienna, Austria.Kapuzinergruft ... symbols of imperiality from some of the more elaborate sarcophagi — Vienna.Kapuzinergruft ... the Franz Joseph Vault ... Sisi to the left; Rudolf to the right — Vienna.Kapuzinergruft ... ceiling detail from the Franz Joseph Vault — Vienna, Austria.Kapuzinergruft ... a portrait decorates one end of Franz Joseph's sarcophagus — Vienna, Austria.Kapuzinergruft ... Empress Elizabeth, Sisi — Vienna, Austria.Kapuzinergruft ... Kaiser Maximilian von Mexico (brother of Emperor Franz Joseph I) — Vienna.Kapuzinergruft ... The New Vault — Vienna, Austria.Plaque installed in honor of Archduke Franz Ferdinand, whose assassination led to WWI.Kapuzinergruft ... Imperial Treasure at the Capuchin Monastery ... Pieta by P. Strudel — Vienna.The Imperial Treasures at the Capuchin Monastery was removed to a museum, leaving just a few here.

    Vienna: Kapuzinergruft … Imperial Crypt

    14 oktober 2024, österrike ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Having visited some of the places where the Habsburgs lived and played, it seemed only right that we also see where they were buried.

    So, with time on our hands — and our feet not protesting the decision — from the Vienna State Opera House, we headed to the Imperial Crypt … also referred to as the Capuchin Crypt.

    The Capuchins, beneath whose church and monastery the crypt is located, have been the caretakers and guardians of the burial grounds. The idea of a cloister and crypt was conceived by Anna of Tyrol, the wife of Emperor Matthias. The funds she provided in her will were released upon her death in 1618 to build what is today known as the Founders Vault. She and the emperor were re-interred here following the completion of the vault in 1632. Over the years, the crypt was enlarged by various Habsburg monarchs. Today there are ten vaults in all, and a crypt chapel.

    The Habsburgs had a very strict court protocol for their funerals. This included the removal of the entrails for embalming. These were then placed in urns that were buried in the Ducal Crypt at St Stephens Cathedral. The heart was also removed and placed in an urn that was buried in the Herzgruft [Heart Room] at the St George’s Chapel of the Augustinerkirche. As for the body … it was put in velvet-lined wooden coffin that was placed inside a sarcophagus for internment at the Imperial Crypt. This tradition continued until 1878 … after which, the entire body was buried in one place at the Imperial Crypt.

    According to the Kapuzinergruft website, some 150 people are interred at the Imperial Crypt, including 12 emperors and 22 empresses and queens. All the sarcophagi — except for that of Emperor Franz Joseph I — are made of metal. His is made of stone.

    After taking a quick peek inside the Capuchin Church, we purchased our senior admission to the crypt and walked through the vaults. It was interesting to note how rank continued to have privilege even after death. While a number of sarcaphogi were almost puritan-like in their simplicity, others were quite the opposite … as evidenced by their over-the-top Rococo designs. The most elaborate of these is the dual sarcophagus of Emperor Franz and his wife, Empress Maria Theresa.

    The entire crypt, with the exception of the Franz Joseph Vault, was quite dimly lit. In contrast, this one was quite bright … its ceiling painted a light blue with what look like cherubs looking down through the clouds. The emperor’s stone sarcophagus is flanked by the metal sarcophagi of his empress, Sisi, and their son, Crown Prince Rudolf. Having read that the Habsburgs were devout Catholics, I was surprised to see that Rudolf was interred at the crypt. After all, he had died in a suicide pact in Mayerling after killing his 17-year-old mistress. Then I remembered a docent explaining that the prince’s brain had been autopsied to prove that he was in the midst of a psychotic break at the time of the murder-suicide … thus allowing his burial at the crypt. Hmmmm!

    Anyway, morbid as visiting the crypt might seem, it was quite interesting.    Läs mer

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    The Vienna State Opera House as seen from the Albertina Museum terrace — Vienna, Austria.
    Another façade of the Vienna State Opera House — Vienna, AustriaOperbrunnen is a fountain near the tour meeting point for the VSOH tour — Vienna, Austria.Looking back from our 'expensive' parquet seating in the Grand Hall — Vienna, Austria.Stage flooring being installed for tonight's ballet ... and the orchestra pit ... VSOH — ViennaCentral Staircase from the vestibule up to the second floor ... VSOH — Vienna, Austria.The central staircase ... VSOH — ViennaThe Gustav Mahler Hall ... one of the intermission rooms ... VSOH — ViennaThe Gustav Mahler Hall ... the walls and doors are covered with tapestries ... VSOH — ViennaThe ceiling of the Schwindfoyer ... one of the intermission rooms ... VSOH — Vienna, Austria.Ceiling detail from the Schwindfoyer ... one of the intermission rooms ... VSOH — Vienna, Austria.Marble Hall ... one of the intermission rooms ... VSOH — Vienna, Austria.One of the Marble Hall murals ...marble from all European countries used to represent unity ... VSOHThe second floor hallway around the Central Staircase ... VSOH — Vienna, Austria.The Tea Room ... once an imperial retreat ... VSOH — Vienna, Austria.Ceiling of the Tea Room ... once an imperial retreat ... VSOH — Vienna, Austria.Looking out over the Grand Hall from the Imperial Box ... VSOH — Vienna, Austria.Boxes neighboring the Imperial Box ... VSOH — Vienna, Austria.A selfie from the Imperial Box to commemorate the VSOH tour — Vienna, Austria.2The Iron curtain ... a security feature & canvas for displaying art (photo from 10/10 ballet perf).

    Vienna: Wiener Staatsoper Tour

    14 oktober 2024, österrike ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    We arrived at the meeting point for the Vienna State Opera House [VSOH] tour to find a huge crowd waiting outside. Luckily, we had pre-booked the tour, so we were shown to a much shorter queue once the doors were opened. Within minutes, Agnes, our guide, was escorting us to the Grand Hall to begin our 40-minute tour.

    Sitting in the “expensive seats,” we listened as she regaled us with all kinds of information about the opera house. From our vantage point, we watched the crew as they re-installed the special flooring for tonight’s ballet performance, and saw the hydraulically operated orchestra pit being lowered into place. One interesting tidbit we learned about the orchestra pit … it is situated below the stage level for both improved audience sightline and also for acoustics. No one on stage uses mikes or any devices to enhance sound … that’s how good the acoustics are.

    The VSOH is one of the grand buildings that line the Ringstrasse, the boulevard that was constructed after the old city walls were demolished by an imperial decree. It was built as a venue suitable for both ballet and opera. Named the Wiener Hofoper [Court Opera] at the time, it was opened in 1869 with a performance of Mozart’s “Don Giovanni.” Following the end of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy, the Hofoper became the Staatsoper [State Opera] and continued its role as a symbol of Viennese culture. Until, that is, the Nazi’s seized power in 1938.

    Unfortunately, the opera house did not survive WWII intact. Bombardment of the city by American forces towards the end of the war destroyed parts of it. The auditorium and stage went up in flames, but the front section of the building, including the foyer, the main stairways, the vestibule, and the tea room [aka the Imperial Salon] survived.

    Following the end of WWII, the VSOH was rebuilt … though not decorated with the “imperial lavishness” of the original opera house. In 1955, the venue reopened, this time with a performance of Beethoven’s “Fidelio.”

    From the Grand Hall, we went up to the second floor. I have to admit to some concern that the tour might be taking us only to the public spaces we had already seen when we attended the “Swan Lake” ballet a few days ago. Well, we did revisit those places. But there were a number of other places as well … including the “antracte” — intermission — halls that we had not seen. Each was interesting for a different reason — the Gustav Mahler Hall for its tapestry-covered doors and walls; the Marble Hall for its murals … made with marble from every European country to represent unity; the Schwindfoyer, which survived the WWII bombing, for its incredible ceiling.

    The Tea Room — formerly the Imperial Salon — was also a space that we had not seen before. It’s another one of the few rooms that survived the bombing. Seeing its lavish decor — 22-karat gold leaf gilding; an allegorical ceiling painting; ivory door handles; wall coverings embroidered with the initials of Emperor Franz Joseph I — gave us a glimpse into what the Hofoper/Staartsoper must have looked like before WWII. Reserved for the exclusive use of the imperial court back in the day, today the room is used for press conferences, awards ceremonies, and the like.

    Our tour concluded with a visit to what was once the Imperial Box. This vantage point was familiar to us since our seats for “Swan Lake” had been immediately above the gilded eagle that once identified the box as being reserved for the imperial family. Nonetheless, we marked our visit to the box with a selfie and a few other photos.

    After being disappointed with the tour we took of the Sydney Opera House last December, I was a little leery about doing another opera house tour. So, glad we did this one … it was really well done.    Läs mer

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    "The Goldern Horn, Mist" by Paul Signac ... Albertina Museum — Vienna, Austria.
    "Street in Arcueil" by Henri Matisse — The Albertina — Vienna, Austria."Two Dancers" by Edgar Degas ... The Albertina — Vienna, Austria."View of Vétheuil" by Claude Monet ... The Albertina — Vienna, Austria."Moret: the Banks of the River Loing" by Alfred Sisley ... The Albertina — Vienna, Austria."Mermaids" by Gustav Klimt ... The Albertina — Vienna, Austria."Mediterranean Landscape" by Pablo Picasso ... The Albertina — Vienna, Austria."Birds and Insects" by Joan Miró ... The Albertina — Vienna, Austria."Rising Forms" by František Kupka ... The Albertina — Vienna, Austria."Composition" by Wassily Kandinsky ... The Albertina — Vienna, Austria."Dance" by Wladimir Baranow-Rossinê ... The Albertina — Vienna, Austria."Dresden: Augustus Bridge with Steamer" by Oskar Kokoschka ... The Albertina — Vienna, Austria."Winter Landscape" by Edward Munch ... The Albertina — Vienna, Austria."Peace" by Augusto Giacometti ... The Albertina — Vienna, Austria.They are not birds but "Ghosts in the Tree" by Franz Sedlacek ... The Albertina — Vienna, Austria."The Avenger" by Ernest Barlach ... The Albertina — Vienna, Austria.Chagall Albertina Exhibit "The Bastille" by Marc Chagall ... The Albertina — Vienna, Austria.Chagall Albertina Exhibit "The Dance" by Marc Chagall ... The Albertina — Vienna, Austria.Chagall Albertina Exhibit "The Bride with Two Faces" by Marc Chagall ... The Albertina — Vienna."Barbara's Eyes" by Robert Longo ... one would swear this charcoal drawing is actually a photograph.

    Vienna: The Albertina … The Art

    14 oktober 2024, österrike ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    The art collections at The Albertina range from drawings and old master prints, to paintings and sculptures, to modern graphic works and photographs.

    Some are part of the permanent exhibits at the museum — such as the Batliner Collection entitled “Monet to Picasso,” considered to be “… one of Europe’s most important compilations of Modernist Art.” Others are temporary in nature … such as the 90 or so Chagall paintings on display until next February; and the amazing charcoal drawings of Robert Longo that one would swear were black and white photographs.

    I’ll let the photos of the artworks do the talking …    Läs mer

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    The Albertina Museum ... housed in the former Tarouca Palace — Vienna, Austria.
    Albrechtsbrunnen wall fountain ... honors Vienna's association with the Danube and its tributaries.Stairs leading up to The Albertina ... advertising one of the exhibits at the museum.Equestrian statue of Field Marshal Archduke Albrecht with the Albertina building in the background.The Albertina Museum — Prunkräume (the State Rooms) ... the Royal Writing Room — Vienna, Austria.The Albertina Museum — Prunkräume (the State Rooms) ... the Gold Cabinet in the Royal Writing Room.The Albertina Museum — Prunkräume (the State Rooms) ... detail from the Gold Cabinet.The Albertina Museum — Prunkräume (the State Rooms) ... Hall of Muses — Vienna, Austria.The Albertina Museum — Prunkräume (the State Rooms) ... Reception Salon — Vienna, Austria.The Albertina Museum — Prunkräume (the State Rooms) ... detail from the Reception Salon — Vienna.The Albertina Museum — Prunkräume (the State Rooms) ... Audience Hall — Vienna, Austria.The Albertina Museum — Prunkräume (the State Rooms) ... Audience Hall — Vienna, Austria.The Albertina Museum — Prunkräume (the State Rooms) ... Rococo Room ... with "Emotion" by F. Hodler.The Albertina Museum — Prunkräume (the State Rooms) ... Wedgwood Cabinet — Vienna, Austria.The Albertina Museum — Prunkräume (the State Rooms) ... Wedgwood Cabinet — Vienna, Austria.The Albertina Museum — Prunkräume (the State Rooms) ... detail from the Wedgwood Cabinet — Vienna.The Albertina Museum — Prunkräume (the State Rooms) — Vienna, Austria.Bedroom of Princess Henrietta of Nassau-Weilburg, used by the widowed Archduke Carl after her death.Albrecht Dürer's "A Ninety-Three-Year-Old Man" ... hanging in the State Rooms of The Albertina.Raffaelo Santi's "Madonna of the Pomegranate" ... hanging in the State Rooms of The Albertina.

    Vienna: The Albertina … Prunkräume

    14 oktober 2024, österrike ⋅ ☀️ 50 °F

    One of the many highly recommended places to visit in Vienna is The Albertina … in Vienna’s Innere Stadt [First District].

    I had — on purpose — not pre-purchased tickets to this art museum. One, because I didn’t want each day to be driven by timed-entry tickets. But also because I had read in numerous sources that it is a lesser-visited museum … based on our experience as the day progressed, however, I’d be hard-pressed to agree with that statement.

    Anyway, we took the U1 line from near the river cruise docks to Stephanplatz and walked the short distance to the museum. It was 9:00a … still an hour to kill before the doors opened. So, we went for a stroll around the area, circling back to the museum a few minutes before 10:00a. Only two people waiting for the doors to open. “Good,” I thought. But things changed quickly. Moments later, a long queue was forming behind us.

    When the doors opened, I went to check our daypack and jackets; Mui went to buy our tickets … senior rate. When I joined him, we decided to head up to the 2nd floor of the museum and work our way down.

    The art was great … and we thoroughly enjoyed seeing the various galleries filled with amazing works. But the Prunkräume [State Rooms], included in our admission, were a highlight as well. I will focus on the State Rooms in this footprint.

    The building in which the museum is housed is the largest Habsburg residential palace from the 1740s … known then as Tarouca Palace. For a while, it was home to Archduchess Marie-Christine, said to be the favorite daughter of Empress Maria Theresa. Marie-Christine’s husband, Duke Albert, began the collection that forms the basis of what is on display in the galleries of The Albertina. You will have noticed that he is also the namesake of the museum.

    Heavy bombing during WWII destroyed a considerable section of the palace. Thus, many of the rooms one sees today are restored — but historically accurate — and most of the furnishings are original to the palace.

    Our meander took us through bedrooms, ballrooms, studies and more … all with silk wall coverings in various colors, glittering crystal chandeliers, ceilings with gilded details, marquetry floors that are works of art in themselves, and more.

    My favorites of all the rooms were the Gold Cabinet … gilded entirely in Albertina Gold (an alloy of 23-karat gold; 1/2 karat silver; 1/2 karat copper); the Wedgwood Cabinet … its walls depicting classical scenes and featuring Wedgwood inserts; and the Hall of the Muses … brilliantly lit with chandeliers reflected in the mirrors and featuring statues of Apollo and his nine muses.

    Next up … the art at The Albertina.    Läs mer

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    Skyline across the Danube ... Handelskai — Vienna, Austria.
    Panorama from Reichsbrücke, which spans the Danube ... Handelskai — Vienna, Austria.3Viking ships rafted together with Rinda in the outermost position ... Handelskai — Vienna, Austria.Viking ships rafted together with Rinda in the outermost position ... Handelskai — Vienna, Austria.

    Vienna: Handelskai River Cruise Docks

    14 oktober 2024, österrike ⋅ ☀️ 46 °F

    Good night’s sleep aboard the Rinda.

    Woke up to a beautiful, nice-weather day on our next to last day in Vienna.

    Breakfast was between 7:00-9:30a this morning. So, we took it relatively easy. Still, we were at breakfast shortly after 7:30a and on our way to the Vorgartenstrasse Station by 8:15a to catch a metro ride into the city center.

    When we got to the Reichsbrücke [Imperial Bridge], however, we couldn’t resist a short detour to the middle of the bridge for a panorama of the Danube River. We might have continued to the far end of the bridge to check out the Danube Canal … a regulated waterway since 1958 that used to be an arm of the river. But we did, so we resisted the temptation today.    Läs mer

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    Karlskirche is a Baroque church commissioned in the 18th century — Vienna, Austria.
    Karlskirche ... looking down the nave towards the high altar — Vienna, Austria.Karlskirche ... a closer look at the high altar — Vienna, Austria.Karlskirche ... fresco in the arch near the high altar — Vienna, Austria.Karlskirche ... "Forms through Folds" blocks the view of the dome and cupola — Vienna, Austria.Karlskirche ... from the organ balcony ... from here one can see the oval shape of the pews — ViennaKarlskirche ... another arch fresco as seen from the organ balcony — Vienna, Austria.Karlskirche ... a different perspective of "Forms through Folds" — Vienna, Austria.Cutaway model of Karlskirche — Vienna, Austria.Karlskirche ... Treasury — Vienna, Austria.Karlskirche ... Pontifical shoes on display in the Treasury — Vienna, Austria.Karlskirche ... view from the panorama terrace — Vienna, Austria.Karlskirche ... Muzikverein & Albertina Modern from the panorama terrace — Vienna, Austria.Karlskirche ... domes of the Natural and Art History Museums — Vienna, Austria.Karlskirche ... the cupola that tops the dome ... from the panorama terrace — Vienna, Austria.Karlskirche ... plague depictions on one of the giant columns ... panorama terrace — Vienna.Hochstrahlbrunnen & the Monument to Soviet Soldiers — Vienna, Austria.

    Vienna: Karlskirche & Back to Rinda

    13 oktober 2024, österrike ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    It was drizzling again when we left Lower Belvedere around 3:45p. Planning to hop on the metro from the Karlsplatz Station, we headed in that direction … figuring that we could also stop in at Karlskirche if it was open.

    As we neared the church, we came upon Schwarzenbergplatz with a fountain at its center. Named Hochstrahlbrunnen, the fountain was built to celebrate the opening of Vienna’s water pipeline. Not far from the fountain we noticed a monument consisting of a half circle colonnade and a tall column. There was no sign in English to explain what it was. I later found it on Google Maps, marked as “an offensive monument!” As it turns out, it was installed to “… honor the Soldiers of the Soviet Army.” I still need to figure out who ordered its installation.

    It was still drizzling when we arrived at Karlskirche … aka the Church of St Charles. Paying the admission, we went inside for a wander. I had read that there was a construction elevator that visitors could ride for a closer look at the frescoes painted inside the immense dome. We asked about it and were told that there was no elevator anymore. Bummer. Especially since a neon light art installation — named “Forms Through Folds” — blocks a clear view of the interior of the dome.

    Karlskirche is an 18th century Baroque church commissioned by Holy Roman Emperor Charles VI, who ruled from 1711 until his death in 1740. The church was not named for him, however. Its namesake is Saint Charles Borromeo. In addition to the great dome, the church boasts two gigantic columns that are decorated with bas relief scenes depicting the plague-related history of the church. The interior, as one might expect of a Baroque church, is highly decorated … plenty of marble stonework, paintings, states, gold gilding … and more.

    After wandering around the nave and altars, we took the spiral stone staircase to check out the views from the panorama terrace and see, up close, the bas relief plague history depictions on the giant columns. On the way up, we made a couple of detours. First, we went to the balcony that fronts the impressively large organ and affords views down the nave to the altar. Also on this floor, we found a cutaway model of the church and drawings dating back to the construction of the church. Then we peeked into the Treasury. The display of ecclesiastical items here included a pair of brilliant red Pontifical shoes.

    It was getting on towards 5:00p when we left the church for the short walk to Karlsplatz Station for the return metro ride to the river cruise docks in Handelskai. At the other end, we found the shorter route to the river ship dock via stairs near the bridge. During our absence, Rinda had shifted from its morning location dockside to be the outermost of three longships rafting at pier 2.

    With the cabins ready for occupation, we picked up our key cards and went to settle into the tiny space that we will be calling home through the end of our river cruise.

    We were done with our chores by the time 6:00p rolled around and it was time to go to the “Toast to Our Guests” and the follow-on briefing for tomorrow. One thing is for sure … if we want to see any of the screens used during the briefing, we will have to make a point of going to the lounge earlier. An in-person muster briefing wrapped up the official events for the day.

    Dinner is over … the journal write-up is done … bedtime awaits.    Läs mer

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    "Boy with a Crow" by Akseli Gallen-Kallela ... Lower Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.
    "Imatra in Winter" by Akseli Gallen-Kallela ... Lower Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.1"First Lesson" by Akseli Gallen-Kallela ... Lower Belvedere — Vienna, Austria."View of the Iris Room" featuring furniture designed by Akseli Gallen-Kallela ... Lower Belvedere."Tree of Knowledge Cabinet" by Akseli Gallen-Kallela ... Lower Belvedere — Vienna, Austria."Aino Myth Triptych" by Akseli Gallen-Kallela ... Lower Belvedere — Vienna, Austria."Young Faun" by Akseli Gallen-Kallela ... Lower Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.The former stables of the Prince of Savoy ... as they would have been in 1753 — Belvedere Palace.Medieval ecclesiastical art @ the Prunkstall .. Belvedere Palace — Austria, Vienna.Eight pieces from a vast altarpiece ... Prunkstall @ Belvedere Palace — Vienna, Austria."Boy with a Crow" by Akseli Gallen-Kallela ... Lower Belvedere — Vienna, Austria."Birth of the Virgin Mary" by Meister der Divisio Apostolorum ... Prunkstall @ Belvedere Palace.

    Vienna: Lower Belvedere … the Art

    13 oktober 2024, österrike ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    After grabbing a quick snack at the Park Café at Lower Belvedere, we set out to check out the art.

    The temporary exhibit featured the works of a Finnish painter by the name of Akseli Gallen-Kallela. Most of what was on exhibit were paintings focused on nature and the rural population of Central Finland … with a few furniture pieces that he designed also included amongst the displayed works.

    In the Prunkstall, the palace stables located behind Lower Belvedere, we found the medieval art exhibit. Signage explained that the collection of ecclesiastical medieval art was established in 1953 and was originally exhibited in the Orangery. It was later moved to Upper Belvedere. We saw some of that earlier in our visit. What was in storage is now exhibited at the former stables. Thus, except for a few objects that are not suitable for permanent display, the entire collection of medieval art is accessible to the public.    Läs mer

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    Panorama of the upper parterres of the Baroque gardens from Upper Belvedere toward Lower Belvedere.
    A number of water features are part of the Baroque gardens — Belvedere Palace.The pathways of the grounds are lined with statues on decorative pedestals — Belvedere Palace.Looking back towards the Lower Cascade Pool and Upper Belvedere (facade being restored) — Vienna.Lower Cascade Fountain ... Belvedere Palace — Vienna, Austria.Lower Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.The Hall of the Grotesques ... Lower Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.Ceiling of the Hall of the Grotesques ... Lower Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.Detail from the Hall of the Grotesques ... Lower Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.Marble Gallery ... Lower Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.Marble Gallery ... Lower Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.The Stables ... Lower Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.Lower Belvedere from the Privy Garden — Vienna, Austria.Lower Belvedere from the Privy Garden — Vienna, Austria.Orangery from the Privy Garden @ Lower Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.

    Vienna: Lower Belvedere & Grounds

    13 oktober 2024, österrike ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Completing our visit to Upper Belvedere, we headed down to Lower Belvedere next.

    The stroll through the Baroque gardens between the two palaces was a pleasant one … the rain that began to fall as we walked notwithstanding. The manicured grounds must be amazing when the flowers are in bloom in the spring and summer.

    Upper Belvedere was built to impress. Lower Belvedere, on the other hand, was constructed as the residential palace. That’s not to say that there aren’t any lavish spaces here. There are … the Hall of the Grotesques and the Marble Gallery chief amongst them. I understand there is a Gold Cabinet as well, but it wasn’t open today.

    Lower Belvedere is used for special exhibitions … the stables are home to a selection of ecclesiastical art from the Middle Ages.

    I had read that it was sufficient to just purchase admission to Upper Belvedere and skip the rest … that the art on display at Lower Belvedere paled in comparison. May well be the case, but the Hall of the Grotesques and the Marble Gallery were certainly worth the difference in price for the combo ticket IMHO.

    This footprint focuses on the grounds and the architectural details of Lower Belvedere.    Läs mer

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    2A photo op with "The Kiss" by Gustav Klimt ... Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.
    2"The Kiss" by Gustav Klimt ... Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria."Fishermen on the Seine near Poissy" by Claude Monet ... Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria."Falling Leaves" by Olga Wisinger-Florian.... Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria."Spring in the Prater" by Tina Blau ... Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria."Schloss Kammer on Lake Attersee III" by Gustav Klimt ... Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria."Half-Figure of a Nymph (Vivien)" by Fernand Khnopff ... Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria."Judith" by Gustav Klimt ... Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria."Character Heads" by Franz X. Messerschmidt ... Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria."The Plain of Auvers" by Vincent van Gogh ... Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria."Adolescent Cupid" by J. N. Schiller ... Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria."The Poor Officer's Widow" by Peter Fendi ... Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria."Wine, Women & Song" by Josef Danhauser ... Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria."The Spreading Pine Tree in the Brühl Valley near Mödling" by Ludwig Ferdinand Schnorr von Carolsfel"The Eye of the Target" by Anton Prinner ... Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria."View of Manhattan (East River)" by Wilhelm Thöny ... Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria."Death & Maiden" by Egon Schiele ... Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.From the Chapel of the Cross in Rein Abbey (c. 1406) ... Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.One of the oldest pieces exhibited (late 12th c) by a woodcarver from Tyrol ... Upper Belvedere."St Catherine Altarpiece" (c. 1520) ... Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.

    Vienna: Upper Belvedere … the Art

    13 oktober 2024, österrike ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    No need for too many words.

    As I mentioned in the previous footprint, we were at the Upper Belvedere primarily to see Gustav Klimt’s “The Kiss (Lovers).” And we did. Even though it is not our habit to take photographs of ourselves with art pieces as a background, this time we could not resist doing so.

    In addition to “The Kiss,” there were a number of other Klimt pieces, as well a couple of Monets and at least one Van Gogh. We were unfamiliar with most of the other artists … but that did not detract from our pleasure in seeing what was on exhibit.    Läs mer

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.
    Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.The grounds in front of Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.Main lobby at Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.Main lobby ceiling detail at Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.Carlone Hall & Ugo Rondine's large arched doorway of organic soil — Upper Belvedere — Vienna.Ceiling of Carlone Hall — Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.Carlone Hall wall detail — Upper Belvedere — Vienna.Ceiling detail in one of the rooms on the lobby level ... Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.Staircase from the lobby to the first floor ... Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.Staircase detail ... Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.Marble Hall ... Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.Ceiling of the Marble Hall ... Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.Ceiling detail in one of the exhibit rooms ... Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.Ceiling detail in one of the exhibit rooms ... Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.Ceiling detail in one of the exhibit rooms ... Upper Belvedere — Vienna, Austria.Main gate ... Belvedere Palace — Vienna, Austria.Fall colors near Belvedere Palace — Vienna, Austria.

    Vienna: Upper Belvedere … the Building

    13 oktober 2024, österrike ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Vorgartenstrasse is the closest metro station to the river cruise docks at Handelskai. Hopping on the U1 line from there, a 10-minute ride and a ½-mile walk at the other end brought us to this afternoon’s planned destination — Belvedere Palace. Our pre-purchased timed-entry tickets were for 1:00p, but a smile and a thank you got us through the ticket checkpoint half an hour early.

    Belvedere Palace actually consists of two palaces … known as Upper and Lower … simply due to the location of each within the extensive grounds. Between the two is a lovely garden … I’m sure even more so in the spring and summer when the colorful flowers are in bloom.

    The Baroque style palace was commissioned in the 18th century by Prince Eugene of Savoy as a summer residence. Following his death, Empress Maria Theresa acquired the complex and converted the Upper Belvedere into a venue where the imperial art collection was exhibited. One might say that thus was born a public museum that continues to display amazing art to this day.

    We began our visit at the Upper Belvedere. We were there primarily to see Klimt’s “Kiss.” But there was so much more. As well, the building itself had some amazing architectural details. So much so that, this footprint will focus on some of them.    Läs mer

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    Welcome to Viking Rinda ... Handelskai Cruise Docks — Vienna, Austria.
    Viking Rinda ... Handelskai Cruise Docks — Vienna, Austria.The Viking "Eyes" ... Rinda is the one on the right ... Handelskai Cruise Docks — Vienna, Austria.Rinda is closest to the dock to make it easier to embark pax ... Handelskai Cruise Docks — Vienna.Staircase between the middle and upper decks ... Rinda — Vienna, Austria.R.C. Lauritsen's interpretation of Rinda ... the Norse goddess of the frozen earth.Mui grabbing a cup of coffee in one of the upper deck sitting nooks — Rinda.Lounge and briefing room on the upper deck — Rinda.Aquavit terrace overlooking Rinda's bow ... on the upper deck.Sun deck — Rinda.Sun deck — Rinda.The wheelhouse is lowered into this housing when necessary for passage under a bridge — Rinda.Open seating dining room on the middle deck — Rinda.Our cabin 222 ... on the middle deck — Rinda.Our cabin 222 ... on the middle deck ... tight fit — Rinda.Our cabin 222 ... on the middle deck — Rinda.Our cabin 222 ... on the middle deck — Rinda.Mui posing on our French Balcony — Rinda.Tour buses operated by Viking.

    Vienna: Embarking Viking Rinda

    13 oktober 2024, österrike ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    The cold front is on its way.

    That’s what the news reports indicate … good thing we have layers in which to bundle up. Today we had sunshine in the morning, but mid-day saw the clouds move in. And the low-percent forecast for rain found us once again when we were outdoors. Oh well … we were prepared.

    Today was moving day! Not that we would be leaving Vienna quite yet. Rather, we were moving to the Viking Longship Rinda.

    We checked out of the apartment around 9:30a, hauled our bags to the metro, and hopped on the U6 line to Handelskai Station. Then an Uber for a quick ride to the river cruise docks. We had the address, but no pier assignment. Nonetheless, Rinda was the first Viking ship we drove up to ... so easy to find.

    We knew our cabin would not be ready. Our goal was to drop off our bags so that we could go out sightseeing again. We were greeted warmly by the staff of the Rinda; directed to the front desk to check in; turned in our passports for the duration of the cruise; and dropped off the bags.

    While I took advantage of the near-empty ship — only about 10 passengers lounging around — to wander around and take photos, Mui helped himself to a coffee from the self-serve station. By 11:00a, we were ready to set out again … our destination an art museum.    Läs mer

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    Sending a hello to Thomas from the square named for his father, who was Mayor of Vienna for 10 years
    Gate of Violence ... Memorial Against War & Fascism ... Helmut-Zilk-Platz — Vienna, Austria.Gate of Violence ... commemorating victims of mass murder by the Nazis ... Helmut-Zilk-Platz.Gate of Violence ... dedicated to the victims of the war ... Helmut-Zilk-Platz."Street-Washing Jew"... Memorial Against War & Fascism @ Helmut-Zilk-Platz — Vienna, Austria.Street art ... passersby were placing coins on the flags of their countries — Vienna, Austria.One of the many Wiener dog stands around the city — Vienna, Austria.Burggarten and the Neue Burg Wing of Hofburg — Vienna, Austria.The Mozart Monument @ Burggarten — Vienna, Austria.The Mozart Monument @ Burggarten — Vienna, Austria.Monument of Emperor Francis I (aka Franz I) @ Burggarten — Vienna, Austria.The pond is a later addition to the Burggarten — Vienna, Austria.Checking out the Lindt shop — Vienna, Austria.All kinds of chocolate goodies at the Lindt shop — Vienna, Austria.Nope ... not going to wait in line at a coffee shop ... no matter how famous it is — Vienna, Austria

    Vienna: Another Meander Around the City

    12 oktober 2024, österrike ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    As we did yesterday, we wrapped up our day with a meander around the city … some of it before the visit to the Imperial Treasury, and some of it afterward … some of it just a photo-op … some of it a bit more than that.

    We were on our way back from lunch, when we spotted a sign proclaiming a square along our route as “Helmut-Zilk-Platz.” We had to make a quick stop to take a photo to send to Thomas and Geraldine, whom we met on our world cruise last year. You see, Helmut — who was the mayor of Vienna from 1984 to 1994 - was Thomas’s father. Our one-photo-stop quickly turned into a longer one, however, when we realized that there was a memorial installed in the square.

    Alfred Hrdlicka's “Memorial Against War & Fascism” is dedicated to the victims of the same. It was installed in 1998 … when Zilk-Platz was still known as Albertinaplatz. I later read that the memorial was an initiative of Mayor Zilk … hence the renaming of the plaza in 2009 to honor him. Google translated the plaque embedded in the square as follows: “Here stood the Philipphof, a representative large residential building of the Gründerzeit, which was destroyed by a bomb attack on 12 March 1945. Hundreds of people who had sought shelter in the cellars were killed."

    The memorial is a walk-in monument … meaning that you can walk amongst the different elements — the granite "Gate of Violence"; the bronze “Street-Washing Jew” statue that can be seen between the gate pillars; the sculpture entitled “Orpheus Enters Hades;” and the “Stone of the Republic.” That some granite elements came from the quarry of the Mauthausen concentration camp makes the memorial all the more poignant.

    Another place that ended up being a longer stop on our meander was Burggarten [Castle Garden]. We were on our way home after the visit to the Imperial Treasury when we stumbled upon a map that listed the garden as a site of interest “In der Burg” [in the castle]. So, we made a detour, entering the grounds through the Heroes Square Gate.

    The garden — located behind the Neue Burg Wing of the Hofburg Complex — was created in 1818 as the private garden of the Emperor. An avid gardener himself, the emperor participated in the design of the grounds and the selection of varied plants from around the world. A century later — in 1919 — the garden was opened to the general public. Like Volksgarten yesterday, it is a UNESCO-listed world heritage site.

    We skipped the very crowded Palm House — the green house that was added in 1902 as a place for the emperor to relax — and wandered around the grounds for a bit, stopping for a photo op at the Mozart Monument. The marble statue was installed in Albertinaplatz in 1896. Damaged during the bombing of Vienna in 1945, it was restored and re-installed … this time in its present location in the Burggarten. I found the sol key — designed using pink flowers — to be a charming touch.

    After the Burggarten detour, we called it quits. Since we were closer to the Karlsplatz (SP) Station by the State Opera House, we walked there and used the U3/U6 metro combo to get ourselves home. Tonight we will be re-packing our bags for the move to the Viking Rinda tomorrow … but won’t be leaving Vienna just yet.

    By the way, I was curious to see how good a deal we got with the 7-day transportation pass we purchased on the 9th for €22.60 each. So I did some calculations. Essentially, we’ve taken 20 rides on the metro and 1 ride on the tram since arriving in Vienna. Transfers in the same direction are free within 80 minutes of the first ride, so that puts us at 12 trips. That means that we paid off our pass yesterday. Today was a freebie … and so will be any rides we take over the next three days. Darn good deal!    Läs mer

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    The red and black gateway to the Schweizerhof where the Imperial Treasury is located.
    Ceiling of the gateway to the Schweizerhof [Swiss Courtyard] ... Hofburg — Vienna, Austria.Doorway to the Imperial Treasury ... now and in the 18th century — Vienna, Austria.The most important crown in the collection ... Imperial Crown of the Holy Roman Empire (960-980 AD).Idealized portrait of Emperor Charlemagne wearing the Crown of the Holy Roman Empire.Mantle of the Austrian Emperor ... Imperial Treasury — Vienna, Austria.Second most important crown ... Crown of the Austrian Empire — Imperial Treasury.Ceremonial robes of a knight of the Hungarian Order of St Stephen and a calpac.Cradle of the King of Rome ... presented to Napoleon when his son was born — Imperial Treasury.Crown of Stefan Bocskay (Ottoman; c. 1605) and the crown case — Imperial Treasury.Hungarian Opal (c. 1600) ... Imperial Treasury — Vienna, Austria.Set of jewels from the estate of Archduchess Sophie ... Imperial Treasury — Vienna, Austria.Coronation Mantle (1133-1134) ... Imperial Treasury — Vienna, Austria.Jewel encrusted gloves made in Palermo prior to 1220 ... Imperial Treasury — Vienna, Austria.Imperial Cross (c. 1030) ... Imperial Treasury — Vienna, Austria.Knighting ceremony following the coronation of Joseph II in Frankfurt/Main in 1764 — Vienna.Robes of a Knight of the Golden Fleece (1712 or 1755) ... Imperial Treasury — Vienna, Austria.Chain of Arms of the Herald of the Order of the Golden Fleece (Netherlands; 1517) — Vienna, Austria."Carrying the Cross" depicted in ivory (1665-1674) ... Imperial Treasury — Vienna, Austria.Christening set donated by Empress Maria Theresa (1757) ... Imperial Treasury — Vienna, Austria.

    Vienna: Imperial Treasury @ Hofburg

    12 oktober 2024, österrike ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    After lunch we headed back to Hofburg. This time our destination was the Imperial Treasury … accessed via the Schweizerhof [Swiss Courtyard]. This oldest part of the Hofburg Complex was rebuilt in the 16th century in the Renaissance style.

    The Imperial Treasury, associated with the Kunsthistorisches Museum, exhibits rare items collected by the Habsburgs during their multi-century reign. Amongst these items are invaluable jewels; the imperial crown of Austria; regalia that once belonged to the emperors and kings of the Holy Roman Empire, including an amazing arched crown; coronation robes; christening sets, devotional images, altars, and more.

    No need for many words. The images will reflect the grandeur of the items on display at the Imperial Treasury.    Läs mer

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    A scale model of St Stephen's Cathedral made with marzipan ... Sluka — Vienna, Austria.
    The main seating aisle has a beautiful glass ceiling ... Sluka — Vienna, Austria.Glass ceiling detail ... Sluka — Vienna, Austria.The Octagonal Room is one of three private spaces ... Sluka — Vienna, Austria.Amazing ceiling in the Octagonal Room ... Sluka — Vienna, Austria.Our drinks and Sluka torte; waiting for the Mediterranean toast ... Sluka — Vienna, Austria.Our meal order complete, a photo op before we dig in ... Sluka — Vienna, Austria.Confectionery samples ... Sluka — Vienna, Austria.

    Vienna: Sweet Lunch @ Sluka

    12 oktober 2024, österrike ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    Vienna is known for its coffee houses. Today, we decided to try another one for lunch … opting this time for one that was on the list my brother sent us a few days ago.

    A 15-minute walk from Hofburg — via back streets — found us standing in front of Conditorei Sluka on Kärntner Straße … like Demel, a court purveyor of confectioneries. Dating back to 1891, Sluka has been “… spoiling its guests with delights for the mouth, body, and soul. …” for over 130 years. We had our turn today.

    This coffee house has several rooms with interesting architectural details that one can reserve for private parties. Two of them were occupied, but I managed to slip into the Octagon Room between parties to check out the amazing ceiling.

    It was 12:45p when we arrived at Sluka. Surprisingly, there was plenty of seating available and we were told to take our pick. So, we settled on a small booth on the outside aisle … quieter.

    We ordered a Mediterranean Toast to split … mozzarella, tomatoes, and arugula on toasted rosemary bread; and a Sluka Torte — which Google translated as Sugar Cake … consisting of light and dark sponge cakes with orange and Cointreau with Parisian Cream.

    All yummy … all very satisfying.    Läs mer

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    Hall of the Winter Riding School ... the venue for the Lipizzaner performances at Hofburg.
    Ceiling of the Winter Riding School venue ... Hofburg — Vienna, Austria.Lipizzaner Performance ... Hofburg — Vienna, Austria.Lipizzaner Performance ... Hofburg — Vienna, Austria.Lipizzaner Performance ... Hofburg — Vienna, Austria.The "poop scooper" came out between acts to a loud round of applause — Winter Riding School, Vienna.1After the Lipizzaner Performance at the hall of the Winter Riding School ... Hofburg — Vienna.This bookmark is a popular souvenir — Winter Riding School Gift Shop.Porcelain Lipizzaner and rider in the display case in the lobby — Winter Riding School in Vienna.Stallburg houses the stables of the Spanish Riding School — Vienna, Austria.The extended tour takes visitors to the Lipizzanner stables — Vienna, Austria.

    Vienna: Lipizzaners

    12 oktober 2024, österrike ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    Got the must- and hope-to-see sights planned out for the rest of our stay in Vienna! That was the first thing we did after breakfast … between doing a couple of loads of laundry in preparation for checking out from the apartment tomorrow.

    And then it was time for sightseeing and fun.

    We left the house around 10:15a to get ourselves to the Hofburg Palace Complex … this time for the 11:00a performance of the world famous white stallions. Having noted yesterday that the performance venue — the Winter Riding School — for the Spanish Riding School sits across the passageway from the Sisi Museum, we knew exactly where to go.

    The Spanish Riding School is dedicated to the “… preservation of classical dressage and the training of Lipizzaner horses, … .” The name of the school is a reference to the Spanish horses that formed the base of the Lipizzan breed. The school dates back to 1565 … it is the oldest of its kind in the world, The Baroque style venue where the performances take place was built in 1729 … commissioned by Emperor Charles VI.

    At first, the performances were only presented to the guests of the Imperial Court. That changed around the turn of the century when the general public was allowed to attend the performances. But the shows back then were held only on special occasions. After the fall of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in 1918, the school began regular performances to the general public … as a means for helping to pay for upkeep.

    Our tickets scanned, an usher directed us to a parterre box. I was expecting our seats to be on the balcony, rather than on the performance level. No worries; these were better. Being fourth row center, we had a great vantage point for the performance.

    The demonstration show consisted of four acts, if you will, over a period of 1¼ hours. Between each act, the emcee — automated recording would be my guess — gave information about the school, the horses, the trainers/riders and their uniforms.

    The first act featured 4-6 year old youngsters … mostly in varied shades of grey since their coats don’t turn white until they are older. We were warned that these stallions can be hyper and can “act up” … one did so frequently, with some of the others joining in the fray. These horses demonstrated steps, trots, and gallops.

    The second act included older horses — high schoolers. They demonstrated the movements seen in the Olympic Grand Prix Dressage test. A pair of horses wrapped up this act with the “Pas De Deux” … demonstrating movements in mirror image.

    Then came the Work in Hand” … showing some of the more complex moves, including work on the diagonal, on the wall, and between the pillars. A solo trainer and a fully-trained white stallion showed us the long-rein technique where the trainer walks behind the horse on a long rein and works the horse from that position. Obviously, at this stage, there is a great bond and lots of trust between beast and trainer … one well-placed kick could easily kill the trainer … a woman in our case (in the past, it was only men who trained and rode Lipizzaners.).

    The final act was the “Airs Above Ground” … during which the riders are without stirrups. This is when one gets to see the ‘dancing horses’ … performing what is called the quadrille. The performance ended with the stallions keeping tempo to the “Radetsky March.” Of course, the audience clapped along.

    The performance was definitely more interesting than I thought it would be. Since no photos were allowed during the performance, we picked up a pack of postcards for me to scan … hence, I have a few performance images to share in this footprint.    Läs mer

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    Natural History Museum in the distance; and statue of Archduke Karl, first man to defeat Napoleon.
    Waterwave Life Fountain ... sculpted from an 18.3-ton monolith of Chilean lapis lazuli.Roman ruins (1st-5th centuries AD) ... Michaelerplatz — Vienna, Austria.No escaping Sisi (sometimes spelled with a double "s") in Vienna, Austria.Volksgarten (People's Garden) ... Tilgenbrunnen ... fountain with statues of Triton and a nymph.Volksgarten (People's Garden) ... Theseus Temple, built between 1820-1823 — Vienna, Austria.City Hall from the Volksgarten — Vienna, Austria.Peterskirche ... dates back to 1702 — Vienna, Austria.Peterskirche — Vienna, Austria.Carriage ride in the rain — Vienna, Austria.Ear mufflers diminish the noise from the city crowds — Vienna, Austria.The rain is coming down as we make our way to St Stephen's Cathedral — Vienna, Austria.Leopoldsbrunnen ... a fountain near Stephansplatz — Vienna, Austria.St Stephen's Cathedral — Vienna, Austria.The iconic tile roof of St Stephen's Cathedral — Vienna, Austria.St Stephen's Cathedral — Vienna, Austria.Pulpit @ St Stephen's Cathedral — Vienna, Austria.Font with holy water @ St Stephen's Cathedral — Vienna, Austria.St Stephen's Cathedral — Vienna, Austria.

    Vienna: Meandering Around the City

    11 oktober 2024, Turkiet ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Leaving the Ephesos Museum, the plan was to take the shortest route to St Stephen’s Cathedral. However, turning the corner from Heldenplatz, we spied the Volksgarten [People’s Garden]. Time for a short detour.

    The garden, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was initially built between 1819-1823 as a private place for the Archdukes of Austria, was opened to the public in 1825. In the center is the Theseus Temple, built as a mini replica of the Athenian temple by the same name. It was designed to house a single work: Antonio Canova’s white marble masterpiece “Theseus Slaying the Centaur.” Later, before the Ephesos Museum was founded, some of the artifacts from Ephesus were exhibited here as well. These days, the temple is periodically used for temporary art exhibits for a single piece of contemporary art.

    Resuming our walk to the cathedral, we noted that the skies in the distance were growing ominous. But the sky was still clear above us. So, we kept going. Along the way, we made one more detour … going into Peterskirche for a quick look-see. When we came back outside, we found the streets wet. Rain was falling steadily. Bummer … the wet stuff just had to catch us while we were once again out and about!

    Despite the rain, we made it to St Stephen’s Cathedral … the mother church of the Vienna Archdiocese. The current Romanesque and Gothic style of the church dates back to the 14th century. It sits on the foundations of two earlier churches. The multi-colored tile roof is one of the most iconic symbols of the city.

    One can enter the church for free. But you have to pay to get into the nave. You have to pay to get into the crypt. You have to pay to go up each tower. If not for the rain, we might have at least gone up one of the towers. Instead, we satisfied ourselves with a meander outside the fenced-off nave, took a few photos, and left. We might return on a nice-weather day if we have time to spare … which seems unlikely at this point.

    By this time, it was getting on towards 3:00p. We decided to head home to rest up before tonight’s concert outing.    Läs mer

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    The Old Stock Exchange Palace ... the site of tonight's concert — Vienna, Austria.
    The Old Stock Exchange Palace — Vienna, Austria.The Old Stock Exchange Palace — Vienna, Austria.The Old Stock Exchange Palace — Vienna, Austria.The ballroom of the Old Stock Exchange Palace — Vienna, Austria.Ballroom ceiling detail ... the Old Stock Exchange Palace — Vienna, Austria.

    Vienna: Residenz Orchester Concert

    11 oktober 2024, österrike ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    The Vienna Residence Orchestra was founded by pianist and conductor Paul Moser and his wife, Sylvia, to perform the works of Viennese classical music. The orchestra performs in different venues around the city … several of which are former palaces. The music ranges from Mozart to Strauss, to Haydn and Beethoven.

    The concert we went to tonight was held in the ballroom of the Old Stock Exchange Palace, located on the famous Ringstrasse … in the first district. Built by architect Theophil Freiherr von Hansen between 1870-1877, the construction is typical of the Viennese style that is also known as Neo-Renaissance. Hansen, who was also the architect of the Vienna Musikverein and the Parliament, was considered a specialist in perfect acoustics, making the Old Stock Exchange perfect for concerts.

    I had opted for VIP seating — guaranteeing seats in the first two rows — for the earlier of the two performances tonight. Turns out that was a good choice as attendance was light, and we got seats front row, center. (The 8:30p performance would be chock-a-block we were told at the ticket desk. I imagine it was … we counted five Viking River Cruise buses dropping off passengers as we were leaving … and another two buses were rounding the square, looking for a place to stop. Sssssh! Let’s not tell them that they overpaid for their tickets 😉).

    No doubt that this concert is designed to entertain tourists. Nonetheless, we thoroughly enjoyed the music … our pleasure enhanced by the fact that most of the pieces were familiar to us. The concert ended with rousing renditions of Mozart’s “Rondo Alla Turca” (Turkish March) and Strauss’s “Radetzky March.” In addition to the music, there were mini-performances by two ballet dancers; and two opera singers.

    When we left the concert, we initially thought to return to the downtown area to take some night shots. But the wind was downright brutal, so we decided to head home instead.

    Tomorrow morning is planned as an easy one since our ticketed-event isn’t until 11:00a. We’ll see if we stick to that plan!    Läs mer

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    The Ephesos Museum is housed in the Neue Burg Wing of the Hofburg complex — Vienna, Austria.
    Looking up into the dome of the Neue Burg Wing ... Ephesos Museum — Vienna, Austria.Ceiling detail from the Neue Burg Wing ... Ephesos Museum — Vienna, Austria.Torso of a Cuirassed Statue ... Roman; 2nd century AD ... Ephesos Museum — Vienna, Austria.Statue of Nemesis, the Goddess of Divine Retribution, with a griffin to her left ... Roman; c 200 ADAthlete from Ephesus ... Roman; late 1st century ... Ephesos Museum — Vienna, Austria.Top: South Gate & Celsus Library (1903) / Bottom: South Gate & Celsus Library (2010).Octagon: Tomb of Arsinoe ... Roman; last quarter of the 1st century BC — Ephesos Museum.Panorama of relief tablets and fragments from a monumental frieze from the Parthian Monument.Parthian Monument ... the four emperors: Marcus Aurelius, Antoninus Pius, Lucius Verus, Hadrian.Parthian Monument, depicting the triumph of the Romans over their enemies ... Ephesos Museum.Parthian Monument ... wounded leader of the barbarians is shown collapsed on his horse.Parthian Monument: Apollo and Artemis riding their chariots... Ephesos Museum — Vienna, Austria.Parthian Monument: the Emperor climbing a quadriga, a chariot drawn by four horses — Ephesos Museum.Roman period sculpture ... Ephesos Museum — Vienna, Austria.

    Vienna: Ephesos Museum @ Hofburg

    11 oktober 2024, österrike ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Leaving Demel with sated tummies, we returned to the St Michael’s Wing of Hofburg, walked through the gate into what was once the castle inner square, out the back gate to Heldenplatz, and made our way to Hofburg’s Neue Burg [New Castle]. Built during the last expansion of the palace complex, the wing was completed in 1913. Housed inside are a number of museums … Ephesos, Ethnology, Arms and Armour, and Musical Instruments.

    Our destination — the Ephesos Museum — was a surprise find from this morning. Why a surprise? Because we had no idea there was a museum in Vienna that exhibited archaeological finds from Ephesus, one of the most important cities of antiquity … one that served as the capital of the Roman Empire’s Asia Province. A little more than an hour’s drive from my hometown of İzmir, Türkiye, Mui and I have been to Ephesus numerous times and have noted the changes resulting from the continued excavation of the ruins.

    Austrian archaeologists worked on the excavations starting in 1895. Thanks to a controversial agreement between the Ottoman Empire and Austria numerous high quality artifacts that the Austrian archaeologists recovered were removed to Vienna … gifts from Sultan Albdul Hamid to Emperor Franz Joseph. Initially on display at the Theseus Temple in the Volksgarten, the artifacts are now housed in the Ephesos Museum.

    [Austria isn’t the only country where artifacts from cities of antiquity in Türkiye ended up outside the borders. The practice of allowing foreign excavations to remove artifacts is now generally banned by the 1907 Turkish Antiquities Law.]

    Keeping the rest of our plans in mind, we opted to purchase admission just for the Ephesos Museum … €7.50/person (senior rate). Not sure I can say that what we paid was worth what we saw.

    It’s not that the artifacts themselves were an issue. We saw some amazing pieces, including relief panels and fragments from one of the most important Ephesian monuments … the Parthian Monument. Rather, the problem was that the second floor of the museum was closed for a photo shoot and we were not made aware of that in advance. So, we missed out on seeing at least half of the museum. Anyway, we registered our dissatisfaction on our way out.    Läs mer

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    Welcome to Demel ... confectioner to the royal court — Vienna, Austria.
    Let's see what kind of goodies are on the menu ... Demel — Vienna, Austria.Esterházy Torte for me; Sachertorte for Mui; and a Brie baguette to share ... Demel — Vienna.Meandering around the shop after our 'sweet lunch' ... Demel — Vienna, Austria.Making nougat treats (ssshhh! He gave Mui a taste) ... Demel — Vienna, Austria.Sachertorte can be ordered in different sizes ... Demel — Vienna, Austria.2One of the creative cake displays ... Demel — Vienna, Austria.Box of chocolates to go ... we resisted the temptation ... Demel — Vienna, Austria.Cat's tongue cookies ... plain or chocolate-covered ... Demel — Vienna, Austria.A fancy cake on display in the window ... Demel — Vienna, Austria.Candied violets and rose petals ... a favorite of Empress Sisi ... Demel — Vienna, Austria.Mui enjoying a chocolate covered chestnut ... Demel — Vienna, Austria.

    Vienna: Sweet Lunch @ Demel

    11 oktober 2024, österrike

    It was getting on towards 11:30a when we left Hofburg. Tummies growling … time for lunch.

    Since it was a short walk from Hofburg, we decided to follow Esin’s suggestion and go to Demel for coffee and cake in lieu of lunch.

    Demel has a history that dates back to 1786 … when it was a confectioner to the royal court. While there is no royalty these days, Demel prides itself on continuing to uphold the quality of their goods and is still known for its elaborate window displays that harken back to the “… Vienna of a more decadent era.”

    The place was hopping when we arrived, but there was no line waiting to be seated. Soon we were at a table in the café on the first floor.

    After perusing the menu, we decided to split a baguette sandwich — Brie and fig mustard (more like a jam, really). A double espresso, and later a melange (similar to cappuccino, but made with milder coffee), for Mui … Earl Gray tea for me. When it came to ordering a cake, however, we couldn’t agree on one to share. So, we ordered two.

    Mui got Austria’s iconic sachertorte … the origins of which date back to 1832. This chocolate cake, layered with jam (often apricot) is usually very dense … almost to the point of being dry. Esin had told Mui that the moistest version was found at Demel … she did not steer him wrong.

    My choice was the Esterhâzy Torte … a cake that originated in Hungary in the late 19th century. Named for a member of the dynasty by the same name, it became famous in the lands of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire. The cake consists of buttercream spiced with cognac or vanilla, sandwiched between four or five layers of almond meringue cake. Delicious.

    While the cakes were good, it seemed like the servers were having an off day … or they were simply overwhelmed. Their order taking process seemed quite haphazard … or if there was a method to what they were doing, it was only apparent to them.

    Nonetheless, we enjoyed our ‘food break’ after a busy morning of sightseeing.    Läs mer

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    Audience Waiting Room ... is Mui waiting for an audience with the emperor? ... Hofburg — Vienna.
    Audience Chamber where Franz Joseph received petitioners ... Hofburg — Vienna.Conference Room ... where Franz Joseph chaired ministerial conferences ... Hofburg — Vienna.A bust of Radetzky — and his ceremonial sword — in the Conference Room ... Hofburg — Vienna.Franz Joseph's Study ... this portrait of Sisi was his favorite ... Hofburg — Vienna.Franz Joseph's bedroom ... after the imperial couple moved into separate bedrooms ... Hofburg.The large salon where Franz Joseph received visits from his family ... Hofburg — Vienna.Sisi's bedroom ... originally shared with the emperor until he moved out in 1870 ... Hofburg.Sisi's bedroom and drawing room ... Hofburg — Vienna.Sisi's dressing and exercise room ... where she spent most of her time ... Hofburg — Vienna.Sisi's exercise equipment ... wall bars, high bar, and rings in the doorway ... Hofburg — Vienna.Sisi's lavatory and bathroom ... Hofburg — Vienna.The Bergl Room ... decorated with trompe l'oeil murals commissioned by Maria Theresa ... Hofburg.The Bergl Room ... decorated with trompe l'oeil murals commissioned by Maria Theresa ... Hofburg.Sisi's large salon ... here she and Franz Joseph occasionally breakfasted together ... Hofburg.Canova's statue of Napoleon's sister (altered to represent an idealized muse) ... Sisi's large salonAnteroom leading to the Alexander Apartments ... Hofburg, Vienna.The Boucher Room (Red Salon) is decorated with 18th century Gobelin tapestries ... Hofburg, Vienna.The dining room where the imperial family had Sunday dinner together ... Hofburg, Vienna.3Photo op in what was one the Inner Castle Square — Hofburg, Vienna.

    Vienna: Hofburg … Imperial Apartments

    11 oktober 2024, österrike ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    As I mentioned in the previous post, the Hofburg Palace Complex was the winter residence of the Habsburgs.

    Built in the 13th century — and expanded several times over the course of their 630+ years of rule — it consists of multiple buildings … including residences, a chapel, a library, a treasury, a theater, and a riding school to name but a few. Hofburg, as a word, means “Castle of the Court” … which refers back to its Middle Age origins. Back then it had a more-castle-like look.

    Just as it was the seat of government during the monarchy, it’s been the official residence and office of Austrian President since 1946. The 18 wings, 19 courtyards, and 2,600 rooms have been repurposed as a conference center, government offices, museums, and such. One source says nearly 5,000 people still work and live in the former palace complex.

    Over the course of our stay in Vienna, we will be visiting several of the buildings. This morning, however, our visit to the Sisi Museum in the Imperial Chancellery Wing, led us to Amalienburg to check out the imperial apartments of Emperor Franz Joseph and Empress Elizabeth (Sisi).

    It was in these rooms that the Emperor and Sisi lived and worked until the end of the monarchy. To say that red is the dominant color in most of the rooms would not be an understatement. The Rococo style rooms have rich stucco work gilded in gold. Bohemian crystal chandeliers twinkle from the ceiling. Tiled stoves that once heated the rooms now serve as part of the decorative furnishings. Portraits and sculptures — and many other priceless artifacts — adorn the walls, shelves, and tables.

    I enjoyed wandering through these rooms more than the ones at Schloss Schönbrunn. Just as opulent as the ones there, these rooms had more of the imperial ambiance I was expecting, yet they were more intimate somehow.    Läs mer

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    St Michael's Wing of Hofburg, the former imperial palace of the Habsburgs — Vienna, Austria.
    A poster of Empress Elizabeth welcomes visitors to the Sisi Museum ... Hofburg — Vienna, Austria.Pen & ink drawing for a novel about Sisi published in installments ... Sisi Museum — Vienna, AustriaPortrait of Empress Elizabeth wearing ivy-shaped jewelry ... Sisi Museum — Vienna, Austria.Replica of the ball gown worn by Sisi before leaving for her wedding in Vienna.Lithograph ... "The Arrival" ... celebrating the arrival of the bride — young Sisi — in Austria.Replica of the coronation gown Sisi wore to the ceremony in Hungary in 1867 ... Sisi Museum.Sisi's private train car ... Sisi Museum — Vienna, Austria.Representation of the assassination of Sisi in Geneva ... Sisi Museum — Vienna, Austria.Photos of the dress Sisi was wearing when she was stabbed with a nail file ... Sisi Museum — Vienna.Lithograph of Sisi lying in state at Hofburg with her husband Franz Joseph at her side.Death mask of Empress Elizabeth ... Sisi Museum — Vienna, Austria.

    Vienna: Hofburg … Sisi Museum

    11 oktober 2024, österrike ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    This morning again started with all things Habsburg.

    We arrived at St Michael’s Square a few minutes before our 9:00a self-guided tour of the imperial apartments and the museum at Hofburg. The doors were not yet open; only one person was in line … a couple more people showed up after we were invited inside. By the time we left, the crowds had grown, so I’m glad we had another early-start day.

    During the 630+ years that the Habsburgs ruled over Austria, many dukes, archdukes, and emperors sat on the throne. Some loved … some hated. There was also one ruling empress — Maria Theresa — who was much loved by the people for her courage, generosity, and kindness.

    There was one other empress whose name seems to pop up even more often than Maria Theresa — Empress Elizabeth … Sisi as she is known worldwide.

    Sisi was famous not just for her glamour, but also because she cared for the ordinary people. In her will she apparently designated part of her fortune to be used for good causes benefiting the needy and persecuted. A gift that keeps on giving. In fact, I found an article on the UN Refugee Agency website indicating that they are supported in part by that gift for the work they do in the countries of the former Habsburg Empire.

    Today, we learned a bit more about Sisi when we visited the museum dedicated to her … housed in the Stephan apartments at Hofburg, the palace complex in the Vienna city center that served as the winter residence of the imperial family.

    The museum is small. The items on display mostly consist of personal items or replicas of the same. Sisi is portrayed in some quarters as being moody, intellectual, emotionally disturbed, beauty-obsessed … a complicated person. The intent of the museum is to “… illustrate the true personality of the frequently misunderstood Empress.” The exhibits were bookended with her death — a death mask and funeral images reproduced from lithographs at the front end … the story of her assassination at the back end.

    I knew that Sisi had been assassinated in Geneva … in 1898. What I didn’t know was that it was by happenstance. She just happened to be in the wrong place at the wrong time.

    The assassin — an Italian anarchist — was apparently in Geneva to kill Prince Henri of Orléans. When the Prince changes his travel plans, the assassin turns his attention to Sisi instead. He attacks her as she is about to board a ship back home … his weapon of choice a nail file.

    Neither Sisi nor her lady-in-waiting realize that she has been stabbed in the breast … they believe that she was simply knocked over. They continue with their plans to board the ship and it’s not until the ship has sailed that Siri collapses and the inconspicuous wound is found. The ship returns to shore immediately, but it is too late and Sisi dies at the hotel to which she is taken.

    A sad ending to the life of Austria’s beloved Sisi.    Läs mer

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    2The Wiener Staatsoper was built between 1861-1869 — Vienna, Austria.
    1The main staircase at the State Opera House — Vienna, Austria.The main staircase at the State Opera House — Vienna, Austria.At the State Opera House — Vienna, Austria.The auditorium at the State Opera House — Vienna, Austria.2At the State Opera House — Vienna, Austria.Our seats are above what was once the imperial box ... Wiener Staatsoper — Vienna, Austria.Swan Lake at the State Opera House — Vienna, Austria.Swan Lake at the State Opera House — Vienna, Austria.

    Vienna: Swan Lake @ the Staatsoper

    10 oktober 2024, österrike ⋅ 🌫 55 °F

    Around 6:00p, having rested our weary feet and feeling refreshed, we left the apartment for the Wiener Staatsoper [Vienna State Opera].

    Before leaving the US in September, I had checked the schedule of performances at the opera house. There was a different performance staged on each night of our time in Vienna. Some were already sold out; some only had “standing seats”; some were of no interest to us. Tonight’s ballet performance of Swan Lake, however, hit the sweet spot.

    I have tickets booked for the opera house tour later in the week, so I am not going to say much about the building itself in this footprint. And everyone knows the story of Swan Lake, or can look it up on the internet, so no need for a description of the storyline of the ballet either. Suffice to say that the Nureyev-choreographed ballet was beautifully performed … both by the dancers and the musicians.

    It was 10:15p by the time the performance was over … two intermissions adding to the overall length of the ballet. We got home around 10:45p, ready for a good night’s rest.

    Another busy day of sightseeing awaits us tomorrow.    Läs mer

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