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Meandering East
  • Sumi Hollingworth
  • Sumi Hollingworth

Meandering East

Our family of three travelled in our off-grid camper, slowly making our way East, literally and metaphorically. Currently static in Al Andalus. For now. Taking in the history and learning a bit about natural farming. もっと詳しく
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  • Sumi HollingworthMeandering East旅行者

    Butrint

    2018年7月14日, アルバニア ⋅ 🌬 30 °C

    A UNESCO world heritage site, Butrint is a ruined fortified city on a forest-covered peninsula, opposite Corfu. Layers of civilisations were first found in the 1920s: Roman amphitheaters, forum, Acropolis, fountains, baths and Byzantine and Cristian churches and basilica lie around in rubble in the dense forest. They appear to have no budget: wooden visitor railings rot, huge swathes of the forest are unexcavated and signage is makeshift and minimal. It’s a truly magical lost city. Wandering around in the quiet early morning, it felt as if we had discovered it ourself. We camped the night next to an abandoned campervan in the car park of a lonely, empty but friendly hotel next to the ruins, and escaped before all the coaches arrived.もっと詳しく

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  • Sumi HollingworthMeandering East旅行者

    Siri Kalter

    2018年7月14日, アルバニア ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    The Blue Eye is a natural spring which bursts at top speed from an underground cavern, thought to be over 50 metres deep, forming a river which flows down towards the sea at Sarande. The road to Muzine was dusty, nondescript, littered with rubbish and industry and did not give any hint of the landscape to come. As we descended into the valley, the river is a swimming-pool blue colour with lush green vegetation growing in and around the river valley. Huge native gunnera line the banks and other prehistoric looking big architectural plants, which naturally grow here, make the area feel like a man-made jungle: all the wonders of the landscaped garden of a Victorian Sublime stately home, or a posh garden centre in Chichester. Our jaws dropped when we arrived and stayed dropped as hundreds of dragon flies and butterflies fluttered across the crystal clear waters, and the sound of bird song and mating crickets filled our ears. Even tourists could not ruin our wonder. The makeshift car park housed some thirty cars and a few coaches but only a gaggle of tourists stood around the phenomenon, fixated. ‘No swimming’ rules had to be broken as we joined the brave, jumping into the freezing cold ‘eye’ and diving down into the black of the cave, as the rush of the spring water flowing pushed you up and along. At 10 degrees no one could stay in the water long but the urge to jump in was addictive and totally refreshing.もっと詳しく

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  • Sumi HollingworthMeandering East旅行者

    Gjirokaster

    2018年7月15日, アルバニア ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    We parked near the top of the town for the night in the coach park and had a lovely meal in the old town, on the recommendation of a American who had bought a place there after working there in the Peace Corp. Gjirokastër definitely had charm and something fairytale about it. It was being restored to hold onto that but, like Kruje, something felt stilted as too many shops sold the same handicrafts and merchants looked forlorn as too few tourists shuffled awkwardly past. Next stop: Greece.もっと詳しく

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  • Sumi HollingworthMeandering East旅行者

    Metsovo

    2018年7月16日, ギリシャ ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Our first stop in Greece, we camped in the mountains near Metsovo, near on an old unmade road. It was wilderness and we parked next to a stream where H fished for tadpoles and newts. It was fresh and beautiful. It was so empty we were able to shower outside. We drove through Metsovo by happy accident because it wasn’t suitable for a Motorhome but it was a lovely traditional Greek mountain town. There was a wedding procession that surrounded us with smiles as we drove through the town.もっと詳しく

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  • Sumi HollingworthMeandering East旅行者
    Greneva and our park4night

    Meteora

    2018年7月17日, ギリシャ ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    We never expected to see landscape like this in Greece: Meteora was a monolithic rock formation of epic proportions, towering over the ugly industrial town of Kalabaka like some kind of spaceship. It was totally incongruous with the rest of the landscape which was otherwise fairly non-descript. It was akin to some of the awesome gorges we had visited in Morocco. Except in true Greek style, there were some ancient monasteries balancing on the very top of the outcrops. It blew our mind. We drove in a loop all the way to the top view points and then we drove on until we were exhausted and fed up, when we reached, near Greneva, a beautiful small gorge with lush emerald green river flowing through it, full of fish and a few holiday makers having a dip at sunset.もっと詳しく

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  • Sumi HollingworthMeandering East旅行者
    Paralia Sykia with views of mount Athos

    Sithonia, Halkidiki

    2018年7月18日, ギリシャ ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    After a much needed free pit stop and park4night at Zampetas camping and caravan centre in Thessaloniki, we headed to the quieter and less developed peninsula of Halkidiki, Sithonia. Hilly and rocky, covered in dense pine forest, with beautiful quiet coves and small beachside towns, it was very picturesque and we rested here for a week, trying out different wild camping spots. There were lots of crowded campsites but also several abandoned campsites with derelict facilities, but level ground and shade right on the beach. We stayed in one in a small harbour near Sarti beach; one at Paralia Sykia where we were driven away by a giant cricket, and then we headed to the West coast and camped near Poseidon beach complex. It was a beautiful sandy but rocky cove with a makeshift jetty where you could swim, with sea urchins and shellfish and interesting sea flora. The hotel guests used one side of the cove and campers lined the other beach. We hung out here for nearly a week.もっと詳しく

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  • Sumi HollingworthMeandering East旅行者

    Kavala and Alexandroupoli

    2018年7月24日, ギリシャ ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    The coastal drive from Halkidiki to Turkey was beautiful, rugged and totally undeveloped with endless wild camping spots, and very few campers there (and almost no campsites). We needed to re-charge and fill up with water though so we eventually reached camping Sarakina, a lovely traditional Greek beach-campsite outside Kavala. Our experience in this part of Greece, campsites tended to be small and cramped full of semi-permanent-caravan-dwellings with makeshift infrastructure: kind of Affordable second homes, rather than empty bays for summer touring Motorhomes. Our next stop we wild camped alongside Turkish campers at Alexandroupoli, the last city before we reached the Turkish border.もっと詳しく

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  • Sumi HollingworthMeandering East旅行者
    Sariyer
    Saridag SokakSariyerSariyer

    Istanbul

    2018年7月27日, トルコ ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We crossed the border into Turkey, headed straight for my father in law’s in Istanbul. Sariyer, Istanbul was going to be our last stop for some time, as we planned to rent a flat here and settle for a while. We stopped for the night at Semizkum Mocamp just after Tekirdag (there were almost no campsites on this stretch from Greece to Istanbul either). We felt immediately at home here: a scruffy plot of land on an unpicturesque beach; with jawdroppingly makeshift facilities; tents and caravans with extensions; little tended gardens; music playing; barbecues on the beach and big long tressle tables for everyone to eat together, and a warmth of community that you cannot put your finger on. The next day we headed straight into the metropolis of Istanbul, parking our bus in a friends car park, and ‘laid our hat’ at ‘baba’s’. Our son’s second birthday had been spent with our English and Welsh family, seeing us off on our travels, and his third birthday would be here in Istanbul welcomed by our Turkish family, who still cannot quite believe we drove from London.もっと詳しく

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  • Sumi HollingworthMeandering East旅行者

    Lake Tuz

    2019年6月18日, トルコ ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Between Ankara and Cappadocia is a huge salt lake aptly named Lake Tuz. We stopped for a couple of hours with the coach loads of tourists and enjoyed the beautiful white pink flat landscape that went on forever. We covered our feet in the healing mud before wading through the shallow pink salt beach, skin feeling lush afterwards.もっと詳しく

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  • Sumi HollingworthMeandering East旅行者
    Selime cathedralSelime cathedralIhlara gorgeIhlara valleyYuksek church overlooking Guzelyurt

    Ihlara Valley

    2019年6月19日, トルコ ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    A beautiful ancient gorge in the kapadokya region. We spent the night outside the megalithic ancient cave cathedral at Selime, and woke up to this magical fairy tale landscape: a crescent shaped gorge with troglodyte cave dwellings carved into sandstone rocks shaped to points like witches hats. We clambered its eroded corridors early doors before anyone arrived and visited the tomb of sultan Selime. We drove straight on to Ihlara and entered the gorge via the 300 steps and spent the afternoon exploring the cave churches along the river in the canyon in the summer rain. We had dinner at a town on the hill called Guzelyurt (beautiful land) before parking for the night at Yusek church on a hill top overlooking the town and the volcano, and went to sleep to a thunderstorm that lit and shook the whole sky for several hours.もっと詳しく

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  • Sumi HollingworthMeandering East旅行者
    Derinkuyu

    Derinkuyu underground city and Soganli

    2019年6月20日, トルコ ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    At Derinkuyu in the Cappadocia region is a network of underground caves which have not been fully excavated but which stretch for miles and are at least 8 stories deep and housed up to 20,000 people. In fact under several villages in the region these underground bunkers are found. They are thought to have been inhabited by early Christians in the region escaping persecution, but they actually predate them.
    After exploring the caves we drove to the Soganli Valley. The craggy, pointy landscape was littered with cave dwellings and numerous cave churches. Contemporary inhabitants were living and farming from ugly concrete houses often now using the old cave dwellings as sheds or barns. The valley was silent and we parked for the night at an empty but beautiful restaurant on the river amongst this ancient cave city. We trekked around the ruins in the morning, almost falling through a hole into 'the hidden church'.
    This is a gorgeous day out where you can trek around the cave churches and relax in one of the family run restaurants, sitting in the orchard with hobbit houses lying at the bottom of the garden and massive, ancient olive trees lining the banks of the river which flows through the green valley.    もっと詳しく

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  • Sumi HollingworthMeandering East旅行者

    Ürgüp, Göreme and the fairy chimneys

    2019年6月21日, トルコ ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We drove through the non tourist trail through the scruffy villages from Soganli valley on Friday lunchtime watching Friday prayer spill out of one village mosque, cows munching along the roadside, tractors drove by carrying whole families, caves and underground caverns made makeshift barns and gypsies camped in fields in blue tarpaulin tent constructions. We drove through Urgup the touristy but functional town, ate lots of dinner in Goreme centre (tourist and backpacker central) before parking on the Panaroma viewpoint of the red valley overlooking one of the most stunning landscapes I've ever seen. We stayed here for the night and k got up at sunrise to photograph the balloons flying over the valley. (My crappy balloon snap here does not do it justice). We drove on to visit the fairy chimneys which were amazing rock formations caused by flows of volcanic larva thousands of years ago. (And then people dug caves out of them and lived in them.) You could see that not long ago you used to be able to drive and park amongst the fairy chimneys but now it is fenced off and there is a visitors centre. Exit through the gift shop.もっと詳しく

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  • Sumi HollingworthMeandering East旅行者

    Harran

    2019年6月24日, トルコ ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

    As we journeyed east the weather became hotter and hotter and the landscape more arid. Typical biblical landscapes arrived: dry, rocky, mountainous, scrubby bushes and lonely goatherds. We stopped for the night in a forest park outside Gaziantep and drove on. As the landscape became more hostile the roadside truck stops became more welcoming: huge wooden tented buildings, with cool shaded veranda occupied by truckers drinking cay and eating aci kebab, picnic alani under the eucalyptus trees, pitstop barbers, ugly garden ornaments for sale and ten lira tepid showers welcomed us. The smell of ev yemek beckoning us in. We went first to Harran, avoiding desperate tour guides attempting to show us around. Harran is
    famous for Abraham having stayed there on his pilgrimage to Mecca but little was made of this. It is also famous for having the First eighth century Islamic university.
    It was disappointingly all closed and fenced off with no sign of any archaeology or restoration. As we drove the campervan through the dusty streets inside the walled city, the most interesting sight you can engage with are the beehive houses, traditional houses consisting of a series of inter joining square but conical roofed houses.    もっと詳しく

  • Sumi HollingworthMeandering East旅行者

    Gobekli Tepe

    2019年6月25日, トルコ ⋅ ☀️ 38 °C

    Gobekli Tepe far exceeded our expectations. It was absolutely amazing. As we turned off the main road from Harran to Urfa and made our way up the winding country road to the 'potbelly' mountain, the tallest peak for miles around, it was golden hour and the pink setting sun shone on the yellow corn fields and it was magical. This is the archaeology site that changed history: a series of monumental circular buildings that date back to the Neolithic period, that predate the pyramids by far. It proves signs of advanced civilisation much earlier than we originally thought. This year was branded 'the year of gobekli tepe' by the Turkish government. Investment in the site had been huge here: excavation was still taking place, there was a huge visitors' centre, lots of written information and a shaded raised walkway which surrounded the main ruins.もっと詳しく

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  • Sumi HollingworthMeandering East旅行者

    Urfa

    2019年6月26日, トルコ ⋅ ☀️ 40 °C

    Sanliurfa was a buzzing, clean, modern Arab-esque city. It was also incredibly hot with the thermometer in the campervan reading 50 degrees. We got airconditioned and fed and washed in a shopping mall and slept or tried to sleep in the car park of the archaeological museum, a modernist building with big plaza. We had spicy Turkish breakfast in the Pazaar and visited the famous gardens with 'sacred fish ponds' and Abraham's cave. We decided to have a quick look in the archaeology museum and are so glad we did because it provided a great narrative accompaniment to Gobekli Tepe and placed some of the historical sights we had seen in a timeline. H liked to see the animal and human reenactment scenes.もっと詳しく

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  • Sumi HollingworthMeandering East旅行者

    Sapadere Canyon

    2019年6月29日, トルコ ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    After finding an upmarket campsite on the beach on the outskirts of Mersin - Alcakil Kamping, we rested for a bit and got sunburnt. We then headed the amazing windy mountainous coast road between Mersin and Alanya, with mile after mile of banana plantations, something we didn't expect in Turkey. We absolutely loved a coastal village on the way called Soğuksu (cold water) where a beautiful turquoise river flowed out into the deep blue sea. We were headed to Sapadere Canyon, a beautiful river canyon with waterfalls and and natural swimming pools. We ate lunch and walked the dubiously rickety wooden walkway through the canyon to the waterfall at the top. Most of the pools where signs indicated you could swim were so deep we dare not risk it with H but we all took a dip in the freezing cold blue green pools towards the bottom where the water was shallower and more still. There were actually quite a lot of tourists here so we moved on. We loved some of the farmland in the valley here.もっと詳しく

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  • Sumi HollingworthMeandering East旅行者
    Arcadia Villas

    Çiralı

    2019年7月2日, トルコ ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We had planned to meet friends in Çiralı which is a village off Olimpos beach. We had booked a chalet bungalow with a shared pool in an orange grove (Arcadia Villas). Chickens and roosters roamed the grounds and the air conditioning beckoned us in. The place was beautiful: amazing beach, cute hippy sleepy village, lovely villas in lovely grounds. Expensive though compared to what it used to be like in these areas... We spent the days in the pool, at the beach and BBQing. The boys climbed the mountain to see the Chimera: the eternal flames burning out of the mountain. H had a great time with his friend and both much improved their swimming. We were sad to say goodbye and skipping Olimpos we spent the night as 222 camping in the valley and headed west. Olimpos used to be a remote beach where backpackers stayed in tree-house pansyions and slept on the beach amidst the ruins (K and I had been together 5 years before) but now we heard it had a tarmac road and we didn't expect it to be the same.もっと詳しく

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  • Sumi HollingworthMeandering East旅行者

    Limyra Ancient City

    2019年7月10日, トルコ ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    K exclaimed: 'two of my favourite things: ruins and freshwater' as we saw on the internet photographs of people wading through the river that seems to flow through the ruins of Limyra. Indeed, we drove through the flat nondescript villages of polytunnels and farming shops, catching a glimpse of some picnicers by the crystal clear babbling stream near the archaeological site. We showed our museum cards and pulled on our water shoes and entered the gate of the site. It was really magical to see this clear fast flowing stream bursting through the ancient city gates, through the steps and down the old road, where you could paddle across to see the relics on the other side of the bank. H loved it and refused to leave the water despite the fact it was freezing. Young men played dive bomb in the deeper waters downstream, Goats wandered amongst the ruins and came to waters edge to drink. Just how ruins should be.もっと詳しく

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  • Sumi HollingworthMeandering East旅行者

    Saklikent gorge and Gizlikent waterfall

    2019年7月18日, トルコ ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    K had been to Saklikent gorge many times before when the experience was less touristy. Now it cost money to enter through the turnstiles and walk up the gorge through the river. Before you enter the gorge garden restaurants line the road approaching with seating areas and hammocks which hang over the river and ducks paddle by. The initial part of the river is very fast flowing and difficult to cross and a rope is fixed across so you can hang on and pull yourself across. The water was freezing and the huge rocky canyon was in shade. We spent several hours wading through the shallow waters, up stream, in water shoes (essential), stopping to bathe in the famous mud deposits which collects in pockets or pools along the banks. We nicknamed Saklikent gorge 'valley of the lost shoes' because so many people had broken a flip flop or a sandal that it was a regular occurrence to see a lonely shoe lodged on the banks or floating by. Unfortunately H got cold and we didn't have a change of clothes so we turned back. As we were leaving we saw a sign for Gizlikent waterfall and we jumped in the bus and drove there. Gizlikent was an amazing trek up a lush green river valley to reach a beautiful waterfall at the end. Well worth it. Don't do it in a Gstring. You look like a twat.もっと詳しく

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  • Sumi HollingworthMeandering East旅行者

    Kayaköy Ghost town

    2019年7月21日, トルコ ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    K had very fond memories of backpacking through Oludeniz when it was just shacks on the beach but now it was full-on hotels, swimming pools, pubs and Brits abroad. We could not even get to the blue lagoon let alone park but we did marvel at determined campers pitching their tents along the central reservation on the dual carriage way on the coast road. We headed straight for Kayakoy where we found absolute sanctuary by accident in the form of Jungle Camping.もっと詳しく

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  • Sumi HollingworthMeandering East旅行者
    Kaunos
    Iztuzu beach

    Dalyan and Kamp Lotus

    2019年7月25日, トルコ ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    We were flying from Dalaman to England for my Grandmas 100th birthday so we spent a week in Dalyan at a lovely campsite in the Dalyan delta with yurts among the palm trees, a trampoline, a swimming pool, a fresh water spring and river with frogs turtles and freshwater crabs, a litter of kittens and mosquitoes. It was too hot to do anything much - we went shopping in the town but didn't go to the ruins. H got a lots of swimming practice including learning to hold his breath and sit on the bottom and played with other kids who came and went. H. Turned 4 here and we celebrated with donuts. When it was time to leave the van wouldn't start but a guy we met who was an airline pilot helped us out and we managed to get the fuel filter changed and get to the airport.もっと詳しく

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