• Mark Holmes
  • Mark Holmes

Greece March 2018

An open-ended adventure by Mark Read more
  • Trip start
    March 10, 2018

    Pre-Trip prepping for our Gate1 trip

    February 17, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

    2/17/18 - So our Greece trip is approaching in a few weeks (March 9th). Part Independent, part guided. Booked our seats on Lufthansa ($11 each) for the MUC-ATH/ ATH - MUC legs, which Gate 1 (our tour supplier) doesn’t include. Total trip cost with air for both of us is around $2800 which was a bargain - we’ll see if that holds true by the time we get back! It was a 2 day Flash Sale that was hard to pass up.

    Studied Rick Steves book on Greece to learn the easiest way to get from the airport to our hotel (Stanley Hotel) in downtown Athens. Looks like the express bus to Syntagma Square and then a short metro trip from there. http://www.visitgreece.gr/en/travelling_in_gree… Seems easy enough. 5 Euros for the bus. Hard to beat that. About a 40 minute ride to get downtown. We should arrive around check-in time. Enough time to stroll around , get some good Greek food for dinner and then crash. Next morning we have the entire day until in the evening when we meet with the Tour Director and have dinner with the rest of the group.

    Downloaded about 10 podcasts from Rick’s app Audio Europe (Greece) to get acquainted before leaving. VisitACity is another app with 1,3,5,7 day tours of Athens which should be helpful. Also checking out some free walking tours which always seem to be good.

    Checked out lunch/dinner opportunities with Traditional Greek meal https://www.eatwith.com/events/26455 for Athens. Requested a lunch with Michial on Sunday afternoon. Waiting on a confirmation. Had tried this EatWith experience in Madrid and had a great time. (He wrote back and we’re confirmed!).

    Since we return on a 6am flight which means we'll probably have to leave our hotel about 2:00am, I checked out Uber services. Looks like it should be about 29 euros, which is considerably cheaper than regular taxi service which would run about 70 euros after midnight. Plus I have a $10 credit from other Uber trips, so that sounds good. it's always interesting experience waiting on an Uber driver in the middle of the night in a foreign country. :)

    Temps are looking good so far as you can see from the weather temp photo here

    Using this app to remember what to take - Packing Pro by Quinn Genzel https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/packing-pro/id3…

    3/9 - last minute charging of all devices, toiletries ,etc. Looking at blog from Madrid trip, can most likely leave home between 1:30 -2pm and have plenty of time. Blew through TSA last time This time we both have TDA pre- Check indicated on our boarding passes. No big suitcases to check. Should be quick. But a new passport wallet at AAA to carry a few cards and my passport and some cash. Fits in front pocket nicely. Will see how that works. So far, so good

    Made a reservation at what appears to be a really good restaurant just a block from our hotel on the first night we get there. Should be at the hotel by 5 - reservation at 7. Thank you TripAdvisor! https://goo.gl/khPXxy
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  • Day one Flight to MUC-ATH

    March 10, 2018 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 36 °F

    Crazy heavy traffic on way to airport down I-77. Waze GPS said the same time regardless of whether we went 77 or 52 so I chose 77. Total bottleneck around Huntersville for no apparent reason other than people rubbernecking at the construction going on I guess. Then suddenly the lanes opened wide and zoom! Makes no sense. Waze does a good job of estimated arrival time based on what it knows about delays. Was only a few minutes off.

    Made it to airport around 4:10. Freaked us out for a moment when it said Parking Lot 1,2,4 were all closed. No idea what happened to Lot 3. Never saw it. We kept driving and suddenly saw a Parking Lot North that had a spot. Parked the van and the bus was sitting there waiting for us. 20 minutes later we were in the terminal. The line looked long going Thru TSA but like I-77 suddenly started moving quickly. We had TSA pre-check although never saw the sign for it didn’t have to take my iPad out or take my jacket or shoes off. Just threw our bags on the conveyer and walked thru the metal detector - done and in the terminal st 4:50 pm with boarding at 6. .

    Boarded on time. Plane took off about 6:55, 20 minutes later than scheduled. Watched the movie “Wonder”- such a good movie. Put it on your list for sure. Barbecue chicken, green beans, dressing, salad with Italian dressing, roll, slice of cheese, dinner roll, blueberry oat bar, 2 glasses of wine. Bailey’s , coffee - doing well! Midnight as I pound this out.

    -45 degrees outside - was going to step out for some fresh air - that changed my mind. 36000’ - moon is out. 8.5 hr flight to München (none of that Munich stuff!) No screaming babies!

    3/10 - touchdown at 3:15 a.m Winston- Salem time 0918 German time. Just bumped into a guy from Romania that I sold foreign currency to just a day ago at AAA!!
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  • Munich airport

    March 10, 2018 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    Headed for Gate G, then discovered train wasn’t running and we were going to have to take a bus to G but right before we did that, my Apple Watch buzzed and popped up an alert saying our Gate had changed to K09. Good thing I had my watch on! Didn’t feel it buzz my phone . Up one escalator and a short walk and we were at K. Flight has been shoved back 1/2 hr to 1210

    Went and bought a Leberkäse Breze to munch on with some coffee. Gonna be about 6 more hrs before we can crash for a few hrs before our dinner reservation

    WiFi likes us in this airport. We’ve been here so many times we don’t have to register any more.
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  • Athens airport

    March 10, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    As we approach Athens, I'm struck by how mountainous it is. Never really had that picture in my mind, but then I should have reminded myself of some of the books I've read on WWII and fighting in Greece.

    Landed! Waiting on the 95 bus to take us downtown. 6 euros each. Super customer service young lady at airport info kiosk. 40 minute ride to central square downtown. Passing lots of olive groves on the way in. Bus has the hardest seats and bouncy as heck but good trip, nonetheless.
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  • Dinner at Alexander the Great

    March 10, 2018 in Greece ⋅ 🌙 54 °F

    Exhausted but still going. Great little restaurant ( https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g… ). Very friendly people. We had the mixed barbecue grill - pork, chicken (not really our barbecue - more in the meaning of grilled and seasoned), French fries, salad - a whole lotta food, plus a 1/2 liter of red wine. Was about 33 Euros.

    On the way to our hotel after getting off the bus at Syntagma Square and switching to the metro, I had my passport , credit cards, and cash picked - out of my front pocket!! On a very crowded metro. Was suspicious of one guy. But kept touching my pocket to make sure it as there - still not good enough. Was being pushed very hard from both sides - suspect a woman to the left of me got it when I moved my hand away from my pocket for a moment. Never felt a thing. We hadn’t even made it to the hotel yet! This is going to be a huge hassle. Gotta go to the police station in the morning. Gate1 Emergency Contact guy is being nice and taking me to the police station in the morning Going to mess up our Monday morning visit to the Acropolis We might be able to do it on Saturday since we are staying an extra day

    The trick will be Monday morning at the American Embassy getting everything done quickly. Good luck with that!
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  • Athens - breakfast -police

    March 11, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    7:40 am Didn’t sleep very well after the mess with the passport. Going to get some breakfast and then the Gate1 tour director is going to be nice enough to take us down to police station to file a report. Did manage to run off various passport forms in the lobby of the hotel last night. Will take them to Embassy Monday at 9 and say a small prayer that works. Need some passport photos too - supposedly they have someone there from 9-11 that takes them. In the future I’ll carry an extra set and the blank forms with me just in case. Going to miss the morning Acropolis tour on Monday am Think we can do that on our own the very last day , since we added a post day.

    After the police, were scheduled to do our EatWith.com at noon today. Not the best of timing now; but we’re going to forge ahead anyway. More to follow
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  • Eat with

    March 11, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    So Demetrius from Gate 1 picked us up about 9 this morning to go to the police station. We rode the metro since he doesn’t own a car. Got to the station. Took about 10 minutes to process a report with the police. Afterwards we took the metro to the Plaka area at the bottom of the Acropolis (Figured without a passport, credit cards or cash, they couldn't do much more harm to me on the metro!) Browsed some shops and then called the American Embassy number to set up an appt for Monday. They came back and said 8:30. Hopefully they might get me out of there by 10 so I can join the afternoon walking tour. Janet will go with the group to the Acropolis because she cannot enter the embassy with me. Fortunately she has some cash because the Embassy will only take a credit card in my name (and I don't have one now!)

    We then called Michail who had volunteered his friend to come pick us up wherever we were. He showed up in 30 minutes to pick us up from Hadrian's Arch near the Plaka area and took us across town to Michaels apt where we were greeted by two very friendly guys. Turned out to be his friends and Janet and I. We sat down and proceeded for the next 4 hrs to be dazzled by food and conversation. Just a fabulous, fabulous experience with 3 local guys. They even had some wrapped up art prints they gave us as going away gifts. Who does this?? Great people, that’s for sure. EatWith is definitely making me want to do this wherever I go - for the money, an absolute gift.
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  • Gate 1 Group Meeting

    March 11, 2018 in Greece ⋅ 🌙 55 °F

    So we had our group meeting (about 41 people on our tour), mostly from the US, a few from Canada. Many have been on multiple Gate1 tours. Tour guide (goes by "Effie", short for a very long Greek name) was a woman who has been leading tours for 18 years and for the last two years for Gate1. She spent first 15 minutes talking about pick pockets and how Romanian gangs were infiltrating the subways and picking pockets right and left (she didn’t know I had mine taken till afterwards). Bottom line - you basically don’t want anything of value on your body, so leave most of the stuff in the room - maybe take 1 credit card, a little bit of cash hidden under the shirt, etc. Leave your passport in the safe. Unfortunately, on the way to the hotel, I had most of my stuff together in one passport holder simply because the passport holder offered slots for credit cards - won’t do that again and will be sure to have debit card hidden in a sock or something because without that, you have no cash and then you have a bigger problem. I was lucky Janet had her debit card with a different number on it then mine (we both have debits under the same acct but fortunately we had different numbers). And it was fortunate that Janet had taken her Costco card with her which just recently has 0% foreign transaction fees. Had I been on my own for this trip I would have had none of those fallbacks.

    I was very lucky they didn’t get my cell phone - that would have caused some major headaches.

    On my way to the embassy tomorrow morning, I will be wearing a little sleeve device that slides over your arm and has a zipper in it and will be hidden under my shirt with the cash I need for my new passport (Janet had just recently purchased that for the whopping sum of .30 at Target.) Turns out the Embassy will not take credit cards unless your name is on the card and since they will only allow me into the embassy and I have no credit cards, I have to bring cash. Once I get that damn passport, I think I’ll be getting a taxi to bring me to the hotel and drop that temporary passport into the safe, before trying to hook up with the group again near the Acropolis.

    I will say through this all, that Gate 1 has been great. Their emergency contact person Demetrius stepped in to get me to the police station and is also going with me to the Embassy in the morning to make sure I get there ok. That’s pretty darn nice, I’d say.

    Hotel Stanley is nice - desk clerks very nice and helpful. Lots of Gate1 tour groups going in and out of here at the same time. No complaints about the room. We had come in a day early and the desk was good about keeping us in the same room that Gate 1 had set up for us. That was a big help in letting us take advantage of our next day without having to check out and move again. Went up later that night to the rooftop bar for a great view of the Acropolis. Hotel is in a rather seedy area (probably helps to keep the cost of the trip down), but metro stop is right outside the front door, so no real need to wander this area at night. Still, I rarely feel frightened in foreign cities at night, something I wouldn't necessarily say holds true back in the USA>
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  • At the Embassy

    March 12, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    Had some breakfast quickly (awesome buffet - could sit here and eat for hours!) and then met Demetrius, my GATE1 emergency contact who is being so kind as to take me to the Embassy for my 8:30 appt. Metro is jam packed - got my stuff well protected! Here 20 minutes early. Waiting in line with other folks who are here for Visas, etc Bumped into a very nice Filipino gentleman who had a US Passport. He had been robbed as well. Had some great conversation while we waited some 3 hrs for them to ready our passports. Also talked for some time with a Greek gentleman who had lived in Vancouver WA. 116 euros later I escape with a new 1 yr temporary passport. If I apply for a regular one within the year, it won’t cost me anything. People helping with the passport situation were all very friendly so no complaints here!Read more

  • Acropolis museum / Plaka / Syntagma

    March 12, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Got out of Embassy with my new passport at 11:40. caught a taxi for 4 euros to the museum. Young English speaking driver. Caught the tour just in time. Will return to visit the Acropolis on Saturday on our last day. Took a break to have some tasty salads in the museum. Then took some time to wander Thru the Plaka (big tourist area below the Acropolis - lots of shops, cafes, etc - lot of outdoor dining venues) with our tour guide to a small place offering delicious baklava (best I've ever had) and Greek coffee ( not a fan of it). Afterwards Janet and I wandered the area on our own for a few hours finally finding a rooftop terrace restaurant at Public, a huge super electronics/bookstore/restaurant overlooking Syntagma Square where we had a view of the parliament building in the background and the changing of the guard. Had a tasty avocado bruschetta with poached egg on top - tasty. Got chilly so headed down to get a closer look at the guards. (See video). We decided to hoof the one mile back to the hotel. Now we have to get our stuff ready for the motor coach tour. Sure is a relief to have the passport fiasco behind me. Astounding how bad the pickpocket situation is here. . Had another member of our group almost have his pocket picked in the metro today. Some good advice here (and yep, I went to this particular police station) . http://muslimtravelgirl.boardingarea.com/what-t…. Also, and something I didn’t even think about was contacting Allianz who provided me with travel insurance in helping me out with my situation. Gate1 did the same thing and even took the further step of escorting me to these places personally. It will be interesting to see if Allianz will cover the cost of replacing a stolen passport or any phone calls necessary to cancel cards, etc. That’s probably in the fine print somewhere. I noticed in the link above that the girl suggested cancelling the cards using Skype, which is excellent advice. In my rush to shut mine down, I called the 800 number directly so it will be interesting to see what those calls are going to cost me. There was probably some international phone number I was supposed to call. (I do have Verizon’s $10/day Travel Pass plan, which after reading a bit further should cover those phone calls which is nice and as it turns out, the Travel Pass does cover all these international calls).Read more

  • Corinth Canal

    March 13, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    So we're off for our trip across the Peloponnese! We arrive before long at the Corinth canal Built in 1893. Actually closed at the moment due to a large landslide. (which you can't actually tell by looking at the water but is going to be a huge dredging process before ships can pass through again) Built by Hungarians! Many attempts over thousands of years had been attempted but without success. You can see by looking at the map how important this canal has to be. The cost of fixing the landslide has to be enormous. Stopped in little gift shop to get some coffee and gawk at the tourist gifts.Read more

  • Mycenae

    March 13, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Next stop - in the second millennium BC, Mycenae was one of the major centres of Greek civilization, a military stronghold which dominated much of southern Greece and parts of southwest Anatolia. The period of Greek history from about 1600 BC to about 1100 BC is called Mycenaean in reference to Mycenae. At its peak in 1350 BC, the citadel and lower town had a population of 30,000 and an area of 32 hectares.(thank you wikipedia)

    For a bit more info on the Lion Gate, check out this wikipedia article -https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lion_Gate The Lion Gate is the sole surviving monumental piece of Mycenaean sculpture, as well as the largest sculpture in the prehistoric Aegean.

    By 1200 BC, the power of Mycenae was declining; finally, during the 12th century BC, Mycenaean dominance collapsed entirely. The eventual destruction of Mycenae formed part of the general Bronze Age collapse in the Greek mainland and beyond. Within a short time around 1200 BC, all the palace complexes of southern Greece were burned, including that at Mycenae. This was traditionally attributed by scholars to a Dorian invasion of Greeks from the north, although many historians now doubt that this invasion caused the destruction of the Mycenaean centres. Displaced populations escaped to former colonies of the Mycenaeans in Anatolia and elsewhere, where they came to speak the Ionic dialect.

    Afterwards we visited theTomb of Clytemnestra https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tomb_of_Clytemnestra). Ton of bees hanging around in here - luckily didn't get whacked although Janet thinks she might have.

    Upon leaving, we wander down to catch the bus and lo and behold - no bus! Ah - another adventure! So as we ponder where it disappeared to, we wonder if anyone else is left behind us but no, of course not! This is not the first time in my travels I have missed the bus! Now we look at each other rather stupidly and contemplate our options (never thinking to call our tour guide on her phone!), suddenly we see our bus returning on the highway! Needless to say someone suddenly noticed that we were missing although Effie was sure the count was right (she was rather embarrassed about this , I think!). So we quickly became famous as those "Left Behind" folks. I will say that I was damn glad to see that bus returning! :)
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  • Nafplio

    March 13, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Our stop for lunch. Was the first capital of Greece
    A little sea bass, olives,bread, some wine some calamari followed up with some gelato. All good. Beautiful day out sunny mid 70’s., Very nice town square for strolling. Little street kids came up looking for handout. I noticed my phone was lying on the table - all they had to do was grab and run and that would have been the end of that - they definitely had their eyes on it! They later went over to pester the old man sitting outside of the restaurant (see in pic below).

    Nafplio (Greek: Ναύπλιο) is a seaport town in the Peloponnese in Greece that has expanded up the hillsides near the north end of the Argolic Gulf. The town was an important seaport held under a succession of royal houses in the Middle Ages as part of the lordship of Argos and Nauplia, held initially by the de la Roche following the Fourth Crusade before coming under the Republic of Venice and, lastly, the Ottoman Empire. The town was the capital of the First Hellenic Republic and of the Kingdom of Greece, from the start of the Greek Revolution in 1821 until 1834. Nafplio is now the capital of the regional unit of Argolis.
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  • Olympia - visit

    March 14, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    Great dinner last night (huge buffet) - nice hotel - comfortable beds. Enjoyed dining with Julie and Michael - new friends on our tour! All liberals - so a happy bunch. :) Huge buffet breakfast. Making new friends - large assortment of ages on this tour which is nice. The group seems very compatible. Sun is shining again today. Got slightly torched yesterday and of course had forgotten my sunscreen , hat, etc. borrowed some 50 from s fellow traveler which will save my butt today, no doubt.

    Olympia (Greek: Ὀλυμπία; Ancient Greek: [olympía]; Modern Greek: [oli(m)ˈbia] Olymbía), a sanctuary of ancient Greece in Elis on the Peloponnese peninsula, is known for having been the site of the Olympic Games in classical times.

    The Olympic Games were held every four years throughout Classical antiquity, from the 8th century BC to the 4th century AD.[2]

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olympia,_Greece (for those of you curious enough to want to know more!). Spent a few hours wandering slowly through here with Effie giving us great commentary as usual. Had some fun at the track with people racing down it, especially the ladies who were feeling in a defiant spirit, since women weren't allow to participate or even observe the Games! Picture of Jan and I in front of the Phillippeion.
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  • Lunch in Olympia

    March 14, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Cooking class/lunch. Making Tzatziki, Tiropita (cheese pie), Kolokithokeftedes ( veggie zuccchini balls). See video. Also two ladies teaching the art of Greek Dancing, complete with dancing on tabletops and smashing dishes. Quite an event after being stuffed full of what everyone made and that was only the beginning! Followed up with a huge buffet (see pic below) - everyone was groaning before attempting to follow those crazy Greek dance steps!Read more

  • Delphi

    March 14, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    The drive up to this mountain village is awesome! See pics for the view from our room! Quite a drive up to this little mountain town in a motor coach. Switchbacked 2 lane road. Driver is a pro.

    Had dinner - traditional Greek food - was ok, but not as good as some of what we had, (especially the lunch we had earlier today), but then I don’t think we were too hungry either. Effi, our tour guide, continues to impress with her knowledge of history, all things Greek, and her warm hospitality. If you go with Gate1 on a Greek tour and you manage to get her, you have lucked out big time.

    Wandered around this little town at night . It sits literally on the side of the mountain. If you go down a few streets, then you are climbing steps all the way back up. Shops stay open till 10 for us late night tour bus people. They don’t ignore you to put it mildly. :). Bought some doodads and called it a night around 11pm. Bags out at 7:30, breakfast at 7 - Bus leaves for the archeological exhibit (the reason we are here) at 8:30.
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  • Delphi - Athens

    March 15, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    Group photos, lunch. On the way back to Athens. Going out for dinner somewhere tonite after a short city tour. Tomorrow 7 am sharp for a 13 hr day visiting islands south of Athens.

  • Hydra

    March 16, 2018 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    Great stop at island of Hydra. Donkey riding, eating warm milk pie ( like custard pie) - fresh out of the oven, petting lots of cats, shopping. Back on the board for a really good buffet lunch. Now on to Poros - about 1 1/2 hr cruise.Read more