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Camino Portuguese

March - April 2024
The last 120km from Valenca to Santiago de Compestela. Read more
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  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    Day 11

    Its finished

    April 1 in England ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Just like that my Camino experience is over. It was such a beautiful and challenging time. I couldn't have planned for it to go the way it went. I'm so happy I did it. I feel like I've gotten more mental clarity by giving myself the time to just think though some issues I've been dealing with for a long time.

    Reflecting on the walk I don't think I would have done anything differently. I'm glad I stayed in the albergues. It gave me a chance to speak to people I wouldn't have met if I stayed in more comfortable hotels. I'm glad I started my walks so early in the mornings as I avoided crowds when I needed the time to set my intentions and think. I'm glad I walked that last day with the Canadians, it was a lovely bonding experience and I would've been miserable walking in that cold rain by myself. I'm glad I packed what I did, my bag was light and I had everything I needed. I'm happy I used the apps I did. The Camino Ninja was essential for keeping me on the Way and the Buen Camino was great for background information.

    The walk showed me that when I set my intention on something I get it. There were some obscure things I focused my intention on at the beginning of the day's and they would just happen later way after I forgot I've asked for it. It's made me relax a bit and go with that saying "what is meant for me will come to me without effort". No need to try and force situations, it'll all work out the way it's supposed and for my higher good.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    Day 11

    Insane weather

    April 1 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    The weather for the entire trip has been insane! From 27C when I started to 4C on some days, from complete hot sunshine to hale rain today with pebble sized ice. I went out this morning to get in some steps and have my last sights of Santiago de Compestela. When I left it wasn't raining but I saw that it rained earlier. I got to this park that I wanted to explore and started to take a picture, and then the rain came down. I got under a gazebo and took some more pics until the rain let up a bit. I then explored a bit more. The trees looked like some on the Camino trail. Moss covered, and the rain drops gave them this ethereal glisten. It was a lovely last day day.

    Heading back to the hotel, hail started coming down! There is so much going on weather wise. I'm not sure how anyone would pack with carry-on luggage to deal with all the seasons I experienced this trip. Thankfully, I managed, though I was wet and freezing for a lot of this trip.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    Day 10

    Easter Sunday

    March 31 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Today is the biggest day on the Catholic calendar! I grew up attending Roman Catholic schools, so remember some of the rituals. In the books it says mass starts at 12pm and there is a procession at 10.30am. I figure I'll have to pass the cathedral to get to the procession so I'll see what the queue is like before heading to the procession. Also its raining when I leave at 10.10am so I know the procession isn't guaranteed.

    As I'm walking into the old town I see this massive queue coming from the direction of the cathedral and I decide to join it as a precaution. Thankfully my instinct is correct and it's a queue for the cathedral! It's only 10.30am and there already is a 20 min queue to get inside. I figure it's a sign that I'll not go to the procession. I get inside and the seats are already filling up. I bag a seat and just get comfortable waiting for the show to start.

    This is my 2nd mass in less than a week! I've not been to mass in at least 20yrs. I'm still convinced that's this place is not great but I'm chancing staying incase the botafumeiro swings today. On the website it says they swing it for easter Sunday. Unfortunately, on this occasion they don't so I've sat through another mass for nothing.

    I leave and take the moment os sunshine to take some pictures. I can sense when's a good time to take a picture because as soon as I was done the rain started again.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    Day 9

    Rained out

    March 30 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    I head to the only procession for the day. This one starts at the gym of a school. 1st, I wait outside along the published route, but I see many people going inside the gates, so I go inside, too. No one stops me, so I guess it's open to the public. There are fit people in army fatigues with musical instruments as well as teenagers with their instruments. They are all practising whilst the centerpieces lay under cover. The rain is intermittent, and from previous knowledge, I know that it's not guaranteed that they will move from outside the gym.

    8pm hits, and the rain is coming down hard. They decide to stay undercover and the pointy hats come out, and they all just stand there while the band plays. After 15 mins, I get tired of being cold, so I head home.

    I wonder why they don't walk in the rain. Surely, they should just have appropriate cover for themselves and the centerpieces. As I walk home, I see people lining the streets waiting on the procession to pass. I want to yell out to them to go to the gym and listen to the music there, but I don't.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    Day 9

    Freezing

    March 30 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    The weather is so cold 🥶 It feels like 2C with temps of 8C. I did not pack for these temperatures. I'm spending a lot of time under the duvets in my hotel as I'm not inclined to go out in this cold.

    I do make my way out to finish my pilgrimage. One of the things you do at the end of the walk is visit the cathedral and embrace the apostle, St James. There is a long queue to 1st get in the cathedral and then an even longer queue to do the embrace. Pilgrims are arriving in the hundreds over the Easter period. Good Friday had over 3000 and today ended up being close to 3000 again so there are a lot of people wanting to do the embrace. Maybe even dome Spanish people who also just came to Santiago de Compestela for Easter celebrations as well. Once we're all cleaned up and in regular clothes it's hard to tell who's done the walk. Thankfully I don't have any real schedule for the day so I'm happy to queue.

    There are signs that you should touch your face to the statue, probably from the pandemic times, and there is no photography. There is also a security guard making sure people just do the embrace quickly and move on. I do it and my face tingles. I should have been more careful with the embrace but I'm not tall enough for my face to be over the shoulder.

    I reward myself with a churros and chocolate sauce after I complete my mission. It's decadent! So rich, I can't finish the sauce. I take some pictures whilst it's not raining. The old town is beautiful with cobblestone streets. There are lots of touristy shops and restaurants but it's still cute.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    Day 8

    Last supper

    March 29 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    After the 6pm procession, I head to the church where the 8pm procession will start. It's just 6 minutes walking distance from where the Canadians made 9pm dinner reservations. The church is pretty barren except for the two centrepieces that will be used for the parade. There are a few people inside taking pictures. I have a look inside and take a seat to wait. At 8pm, it's pouring rain, so I see organisers frantically trying to decide if to keep the procession inside, but the rain stops by 8.15 and the start to make a move. There are more masked people, but this time, it's not so spooky as the pointy hats aren't white. It's interesting how perception can change feelings so dramatically. There isn't any music inside to move the centrepieces outside, but when I get outside, I realise the band is out there. They move slowly through the dark streets towards the cathedral.

    I head to the restaurant to meet the girlies. Since I'm early, I get a glass of red wine and some olives. The bartender isn't friendly and keeps trying yo move me down the bar and then isn't pleased that I'm putting my olive pits into a tissue and rudely pushes a dish in front of me. I try not to focus on him, and people watch a bit smiling at various customers as they enter. I'm the only one flying solo. I start pondering my solo travels. Usually I wouldn't go to a bar at night so this is a new experience. I feel a bit out of place here. Maybe it's the language barrier as I'd not blink twice about going to a bar alone in London. I quite like going out solo as it's easier to talk to people, and people find it easier to approach you. Before I get too far down the rabbit hole of thought, the Canadians arrive.

    They are smiling ear to ear. It's remarkable how chatty and friendly some people from North America are. I forgot that living in London for so long and I sort of miss it. We've only known each other for a short period of time and already shared so many personal stories. Maybe it's the circumstances of us suffering together that make the bonding seem so intense so fast. Dinner is good. They try scallops and pork cheeks for the 1st time. They are so lovely and excitable over small pleasures that it's cute. We're all sad that this is their last night in Santiago. Hopefully, we'll cross paths again on future travels.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    Day 8

    Good Friday

    March 29 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Today was a lazy day. I was frozen straight through to my bones because the heating in my hotel only operates from 5pm to midnight and the temps outside are around 6C. Its insanity to have such a system in place. I slept under 3 duvets and I still was cold. I didn't get out my bed until past 1pm and that was only to go out and find water and possibly buy a radiator. When I left the room I spotted a portable radiator in the cleaners closet! Thankfully the cleaner was still around and I asked her to borrow it. Amazing! I feel I manifested that radiator as that's all I could think about. There is this saying I picked up on the walk... ask and the Camino provides. Well that rang true for me on a few occasions and definitely this morning.

    Feeling much better about life I go out and discover most of the groceries shut as its a holiday. Just a few small convenience stores open so I buy water, beer and a Chinese mango bun. I head back to my hotel and check in on the Canadians. They went out to see the 11am procession and were now in their hotel trying to warm up and nap. They ask if I want to join them for dinner and I accept. Now that I have the radiator warming the room it's a good time to venture out and catch some of the processions that I came here for.

    I leave at 5pm to catch the 6pm procession. That starts off with these drummers dressed in white with pointy hats, like the KKK, but I try to remind myself that the KKK stole from these groups and the Spanish probably aren't so bad. It is eerie being one of 3 black people in a crowd surrounded by these masked pointy hat people. The procession has various stages of the good Friday story. There are people walking barefoot dragging wooden crosses, little girls carrying various ornaments such as the cloth Jesus wiped his face on with the imprint, the crown of thorns, etc. The music is quite good but I quite like a marching band especially one that's heavy on the drums.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    Day 7

    Here

    March 28 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 6 °C

    I've made it to Santiago de Compestela. I'm happy, relieved, but also underwhelmed by today's walk. It was just under 4 hours. The short walk, even though it was miserable, felt like maybe I should have walked more today to deserve reaching the cathedral.

    We took some pictures and found the place to get our certificate to show we completed the Camino. Finding the pilgrims office is not easy. We run into people we've seen on the walk in the square. All of us are relieved to have made it. One guy is looking for a beer before he heads to his train to Milan. Another lady is chatting on her phone trying to find others she walked with, many are taking pictures and asking others to take pictures of them. It's a fun atmosphere.

    Niky and I are starting to shiver uncontrollably. The cold has seeped in. We go to the cathedral entrance to find out if that's where you get the certificate, no you have to go to the pilgrims office to the left of the cathedral when you're in the square. We stumble our way to that area and see people walking with their certificate. After lots of back and forth we find the office. It's a modern affair now. You scan your QR code then you get a number for when to be called. When you are called you go up to the counter and they ask to see your Compestela book with your stamps and then ask if you want to have your distance certificate printed as well. The completion certificate doesn't cost money but the distance one is 3€. I get the additional certificate. The lady at my counter isn't very friendly and doesn't make any conversation, she just moves me along. Paula and Niky report different experiences with their counter ladies, they spoke about the walk, reasons for doing it and how they felt. To me it felt like a money grabbing operation at the end as walking out there were all these additional things suggested for you to buy.

    I'm frozen now so we set a time to meet back up and head to our accommodations to get warm. 1st i pass by the post office to collect my luggage. Its a simple process. Many people are in their collecting backpacks.

    My accommodation is nice. It's a small single room. It looks like a university room. It's got everything I'd need, so im not bothered. It's cold though. The heating is on a system that doesn't turn on until 5pm. Its a stupid system as its only 9C outside so unbelievable to me that there would be heat on. I text reception about it and they offer to bring me an additional blanket. Tomorrow I'll try and find a portable heater to purchase.

    Later, we meet up for the pilgrims mass at the cathedral and a celebration meal. The mass is in Spanish. I've not been to mass since my teenage years in Catholic school. The rhythm of the mass feels familiar. It's packed in the cathedral. Lots of pilgrims but also locals there for Maundy Thursday mass. The seats are all filled and I'm standing along with others for the ceremony. Everyone stands and sits and recites some words at the same time. I listen for the priests to say peregrinos, as that's another word for pilgrims and its said many times. The mass is to bless us and celebrate our achievement of finishing our pilgrimage after all. I'm enjoying the scent of the incense. As I can't understand the words I'm looking at all the elaborate gold and jewelled decorations of the cathedral and the pink angels and other pink statues of saints. It reminds me of the horrors of religion and why I'm not religious anymore. They symbolism and community of the pilgrims does feel nice though but I'm freezing and can't wait to leave.

    Dinner with the girls is great. Niky wants a vibe for our celebration meal, I want octopus and to be warm. We walk around for 20mins trying to find a suitable place and I find somewhere with underground seating so we wouldn't be near any doors. This place is a good choice. Dinner doesn't start until 8.30 so we order wine. The waiter chooses a lovely galacian red wine and takes our photo. We chat about life over that 1st bottle then it's time to order food. They have never had octopus so they order the same as me and a lamb dish to share. The octopus was beautiful, tender, well seasoned and cooked. It was on a black salt mashed potatoes which went well.

    Even though it was under 18km to get to Santiago from my starting point I've walked 27km and 39,000 steps.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    Day 7

    Almost

    March 28 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    I'm walking with Paula and Niky today. Its miserable weather. The rain is relentless. Its also freezing cold on this section and we can't seem to get warm. When our spirits are getting down we see this church where pilgrims are going inside so we investigate to see if we can get a stamp. It's a gorgeous little church. We get stamped and wonder our way to Santiago cathedral.

    As our moods are down because of the weather conditions we decided to get caffeinated. The coffee is great but the seating area was cold because of the automatic door.

    There are lots of pilgrims in this section. We walk pass a few and some pass us. We're all looking miserable for these last 10km. We're playing a game of slot the interesting number on the way marker.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    Day 7

    Chat

    March 28 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    Last night, before going to bed, I decided that I wouldn't be leaving early. The weather is forecast for rain and I can't check into my accommodation before 2 pm. The walk should only take 4hrs so no need to rush. I have a leisurely lie in till 7.30am. It was a lovely, easy start to my day. Others in the accommodation thought the same, and there were many having breakfast when I went down to sort my bag.

    When I check my shoes, I notice the right one has a loose sole at the front. This happened overnight as the shoes were left in front of the fire. That probably loosened up the glue on the soles. I tie a bit of string to the front to keep it from flapping, but that comes off 10 mins intonthe walk. Thankfully this happened on the last day of the trail! These shoes are from my 100km days in 2016 so I have no problem tossing them. I'd like to complete the walk in these shoes though.

    I set off on the walk with my Canadian friends. Niky stopped at every cat we saw. This lengthens the time we are walking.

    They are super alert and chatty in the morning. We start the walk off with a song, and then the chatter keeps going. They have a good pace for walking with the chatter. I'm surprisingly chatty with them as well. It's raining as we walk but I'm taking lots of pictures.

    We're passing the way markers really quickly now.    Read more

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