• Kim M
mar. – abr. 2024

Camino Portuguese

The last 120km from Valenca to Santiago de Compestela. Leer más
  • Inicio del viaje
    22 de marzo de 2024

    The start

    22 de marzo de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    I can't believe I'm starting my Camino today. This day came so quickly. I've been preparing for this over the last 5 months and now all that's left to do is get on the route and get walking. I prepped my backpack last night and it weighs a comfortable 5.5kgs. Careful planning watching lots of YouTube videos and reading various blogs went into my packing list. I probably have more luxury items, eg I'm bringing dresses to change into after the daily walks, but that's how I'm comfortable travelling. I'm not a gym gear all day all night person. The weather in London is cold and rainy now. I'm excited to be leaving.Leer más

  • First stop

    22 de marzo de 2024, España ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    I arrived in Santiago and figured out the proper bus to get to the city centre. My mobile data refused to work, but my preplanned spreadsheet came to the rescue. Thankfully, I had coins as suggested from one of the blogs as the bus didn't take card. Many confused tourists were left at the airport scrambling to get cash. Hopefully, the bus is frequent, and they were able to get on the next one.

    I arrived at the city centre and located the place to leave my excess luggage. It was a smooth process. You just pay the 1st day, and then they charge you at the end when you collect. I guess they can't rely on you arriving when you think you will. Hopefully, I will. My accommodation is already booked!

    I reassembled my backpack and headed to find something quick to eat. Seafood pizza was the easiest choice. I didn't want to take my backpack into a restaurant, though passing so many places with octopus was really tempting. It can wait, though. I need to manoeuvre my way to the bus that takes me just cross the border into Portugal.
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  • Day 1 complete

    22 de marzo de 2024, España ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Today was a long travelling day! I underestimated how tired I would feel arriving at my 1st stop 12hrs from when I left London. I'm knackered and officially I haven't even started the Camino yet. Well I'm going to get 2 stamps today and make today my official start! I only wish the bus schedules worked out so I arrived in Valenca early enough to get stamped there. That would've been a fabulous start on my credentials. Currently it only recorded on here as my official start to walking.

    The bus ride from Santiago to Valenca was good but frozen. The driver for some unknown reason wanted to have the air on 17C. I arrived to Valenca at 7.45pm Spanish time and the sun was quickly setting. I had a 50min walk from that bus stop over a scary bridge to Spain and my accommodation. I'm so glad I booked in advance otherwise I'd not have a space. I got a bit lost trying to find the bridge out of Valenca but finally got on track and hurried across the bridge border lines of Portugal and Spain to get to my accommodation before check-in closed. It was a sweaty walk because night time temps are currently 22C.

    I checked into my accommodation and quickly set out to find dinner. Surprisingly I'm not hungry but I need another stamp and I know I need the fuel for tomorrow. The only food I've had all day was a pret flat white, a vegan jerky, half a bag of Fritos, and 10 strawberries. Also my water consumption is abysmal. I've only drank 330mls. That's insane for all day.

    I've found a cute little restaurant filled with pilgrims. I chose not to get the pilgrims menu but just a tortilla with prawns and cheese and beer. Costs the same and I don't have to face rice tonight. I'm pleased to have a high protein meal.

    I've covered 12km and over 17,000 steps and it's not a official walking day! I'm excited for what tomorrow will bring. I'm tucked into my little bunked cocoon. It's quite cozy for what it is. It's very noisy but there are only 4 people on this room and I don't have anyone on the top bunk.

    My neighbours just arrived, drunk and making lots of commotion at 10.30pm. Hopefully this is a one off and all hostels aren't this noisy.
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  • Leaving Tui

    23 de marzo de 2024, España ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    I officially start my camino today! I was nervous leaving the albergue this morning. It wasn't helped by the fact that 1am this morning some random crawled into the top bunk. They came into the room with a lot of commotion and woke me up. I was scared thinking they were 1st trying to enter my bed so I stayed up for the longest just listening to their motions. They kept turning the lights on and off in the top bunk. Eventually I fell asleep again. I got a few hours rest, enough to start my day off.

    I got up at 6.50am and got myself ready for the day. I filled my water bladder with tap water which is very unusual for me but I want to experience this the regular way. I set off at 7.30 sharp following the yellow arrows and met a fellow early pilgrim, Christaff from Latvia. He started his day an hour earlier in Valenca. I told him this was my 1st day on the Camino and agreed to walk with him a bit.

    We chatted about our reasons for walking and why we chose to do it now. He's not religious and didn't even realise he might arrive to Santiago in the height of the celebrations. I find it so interesting speaking to non religious people who weren't even brought up with religion. Their viewpoint usually has less shame, less anxiety about God, more freedom of their personal choice. We spoke about psychology and theories about how religion just was a way of control and helping people to focus on behaviours without thought. Eventually after an hour I wanted to be free with my thoughts so I expressed that and he walked ahead. My pace was definitely slower than his long legs could manage.
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  • Alone

    23 de marzo de 2024, España ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Now that I'm alone, I can stop and set up my tripod for as many pics as my heart desires. I'm in a forested area and it's so beautiful. I remember so many of the spots from the YouTube videos I researched. I love the cute little bridges over streams of water. It's green and lush.

    I start to get comfortable with my thoughts. I decide that I want to find octopus for dinner, and I'll keep a good enough pace to make it to Mos in enough time to get a bed in the public albergue. You can't book these so it's 1st come, 1st serve for beds. It's also the only albergue in Mos so if I don't get a bed here I'll have to walk to the next town... another 10km away!

    I hit the 111.11km left marker, and I start to perk up. That makes me feel super lucky. I start taking loads of pictures. I pass one enterprising child selling Camino shells on the path. I don't buy as I have my own. I have my protein shake and feel an energy boost. I'm getting good at spotting the yellow markers. There is no need for maps, really. The markers really keep you on track.
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  • Camino Complementario

    23 de marzo de 2024, España ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    I arrive at the point where there is a choice to either go the regular way or take an alternative way that adds 0.5km to the journey. What's another half a km when I've already walked so much. I choose the longer route as it's supposed to be more natural and beautiful as opposed to a regular route that goes through an industrial estate.

    This route is indeed beautiful. Its so lovely to be among the trees. I'm enjoying the walk even though my hips are starting to hurt. It's too early in this journey to have pain!
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  • Free

    23 de marzo de 2024, España ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    I'm starting to talk to myself out loud. I must look like I'm on my mobile to others. It's helping me to sort through my thoughts. It's so interesting how I'm alone most of this walk. I like it but I also thought I'd see more people walking. I've not seen anyone for an hour. It's really freeing not having to make too many decisions, just walk and follow the markers.Leer más

  • Coffee

    23 de marzo de 2024, España ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Finally I'm in O Porrino. This is where people usually stop for the day but I'm going to go to the next stop. But 1st I need a coffee! I'll search for something and also get my 1st stamp of the day. We need 2 of these per day to get the certificate at the end.

    I head to Mos and reach the marker signalling less than 100km left! Whoop!!! My body already feels broken. I can't wait to get to Mos now.
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  • Mos

    23 de marzo de 2024, España ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    I'm in Mos now. My time here has been lovely, though. I'm so tired I've not explored much. It was great to shower and change into a skirt. I got an octopus lunch and walked around a bit. It's a cute little village. It does not even have a convenience store.

    I'm happy I got a space in the only albergue here. I was third in the queue here, but the 1st was a teenage Spanish school group. I have to make sure to start walking before them tomorrow. They are a noisy bunch. The beds come with a cloth liner and no blankets. This is just one step up from camping as they have provided the bed, roof and walls. The mattress and pillows are wrapped in a plastic liner. It squeaks a bit to move. Ah well, it's an experience!

    I'm heading to bed super early tonight. My body hurts everywhere and I'd like to get as much rest as possible. I've clocked up over 40,000 steps and 27km today. This should be my longest walk of the trip.
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  • Pilgrims

    24 de marzo de 2024, España ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    I set off from Mos at 7.18am. What was so interesting about that time was that I was the second to last left in my room to leave. I woke up at 5am with the Italian ladies getting ready to leave. They all made a big commotion and finally left at 6am. I laid there a bit more not wanting to get out into the cold. I knew also that the sun didn't rise until 7.30am and I didn't fancy walking solo in the dark. It's better if you have company for walking in the dark.

    Last night a German guy in the top bunk invited me to drink wine with him. I declined as I felt so knackered. I think I hurt his feelings as he was quite distant this morning.

    Walking out of Mos solo was great. I could see 2 pilgrims ahead and I didn't even pay attention to the markers until I lost them as I was taking so many pics. I'm still finding it interesting to walk solo as I thought people would be more chatty. I pass people on my route but except for a bom Camino and smile we pass each other.

    When I was particularly pondering my alone state a Portuguese pair passed me. They were walking quite fast but slowed down enough to ask where I'm from. Naturally I always say I'm from the Bahamas 🇧🇸 but living in London. They love that they have met someone from the Bahamas as that's their dream holiday and ask if they can take a picture with me. I say, of course as long as I get one with them as well as they are my 1st Portuguese folk I've met on my Camino Portuguese 🧡
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  • Rendolula

    24 de marzo de 2024, España ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    I continue walking on my own. It's beautiful amongst the trees. I'm loving this now as The walk started quite residential. The walk is now getting quite hilly. Very steep inclines as well as declines. I can't believe how hard going this is! It's really tough walking and my hips hate going down. Surprisingly down hurts more than up.

    I pass a cafe where everyone that left this morning before me has stopped to have breakfast. I say hi to my German bunk mate and he blanks me... definitely annoyed. Well it's not my problem. I try to get a coffee but it's too busy in there so I just get a stamp. I keep walking and come across a pilgrim cutout. Perfect selfie opportunity. As I pass those ones that set off before me I remember the tortoise and hare tale, I'm slow but steady so make it in my own time. I've passed those ones ahead of me just going at my own pace. No need to rush, I'll get there.
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  • Up

    24 de marzo de 2024, España ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    This walk is intense! There are so many steep hills to climb. I get to this space where its 70m at 15% incline or 360m at 5% incline. I choose the latter. I can't face another intense incline. My knees and hips are screaming at my. I can't believe it's just day 2 of walking.

    The views are beautiful though. Thus section of the Camino seems new. There are way markers but the font have the distance recorded in them yet. I'm glad for the route though. Its beautiful, in nature and keeps us away from walking along the highway.

    I pass two separate vendors selling bits on the trail. They even offer ti stamp my credentials. I don't buy anything but I do get one stamp.
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  • Arcade

    24 de marzo de 2024, España ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    I'm in Arcade finally! First things first, get a cafe solo. Ive found out thats how to order an espresso shot, lovely. This was supposed to be a short walking day. I still managed to get in a lot of steps though. The accommodation is nice. I get a blanket this time and curtains on the bed. Nice 🤗

    Arcade is a lovely river centered town. There is a cute one car lane bride that connects it with other towns. There is a good system in place for cars crossing the bridge.

    Arcade is known for oysters and this special wine. I get turned away from 3 restaurants until coming across one that's not full. The waiter says the wine I want isn't available by the glass so I have to buy a whole bottle. Ah well, I can't be bothered yo find another place. The oysters are salty, which is surprising. The wine is average. Not something I'd rush to have again.

    Tonight I meet a Canadian mum and daughter duo. They are staying st the same albergue as me. We end up going to dinner together. So my day started with a Portuguese set of pilgrims who weren't super chatty then ended with Canadian pair who were chatty and lovely to have a meal with.

    Today's tally is just over 38,000 strps and 25km.
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  • Intentions

    25 de marzo de 2024, España ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    I set off from Arcade at 7.08am. I'm a bit scared as the sun is not up yet but the forecast is for rain at 10am and I want to get to my next stop before then. Google says I have 2.5hrs to walk to my next accommodation of I take their route, the Camino however takes a route that goes through wooded areas to avoid the streets as much as possible so I know it'll take a bit longer. I don't like walking in mud so off I go. 2 male pilgrims leave the albergue before me so I know there will at least be fellow pilgrims on the trail. Also 3 females are preparing to set off after me so there will be followers soon.

    It's pretty dark when I set off and the route goes up some stairs. What a way to start off! Soon I leave the town behind and start in the woods. Time to start taking pics of myself before the trail gets busy. Another pilgrim speeds past me. What kind of pace do some of them make! Are they even enjoying the surroundings? They make it seem like exercise. Either way everyone has their own way of doing the Camino.

    Then I start thinking of what I want out of today. Christaff gave me the great idea to have an intention for what I'd like at the end of the day. This helps to focus my mind and reinforces that the manifestion works. My last 2 days I've actually gotten what I asked for at the end of the day. We'll see if today is the same. I set my intention and keep walking.
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  • Stamp

    25 de marzo de 2024, España ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    This section of the Camino is so beautiful. There are slight hills and I'm surrounded by moss covered trees. This route is different than what's mapped out on my app. I've read that the Camino keeps getting updated as the original way now is built up with highways and other undesirable areas for walking.

    That's understandable as the way original pilgrims walked probably was the best for businesses to open up. An enterprising woman has a stand on this new way. She offers to stamp your credentials and I'm sure many pilgrims like myself feel like we should buy something in exchange. I get a 1€ coffee. It's definitely instant coffee and not great but I've got my 1st stamp of the day.
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  • Speed or beauty

    25 de marzo de 2024, España ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    I arrive at a place where I have to choose whether to walk the original road or divert to the woods. The new woods walk is always longer than the original route but it takes you along nature paths. This one follows a river. Its intensely beautiful in the back there. The path is super muddy in parts as well. I'm jumping over huge mud patches and navigating through the trees. I pass cows and horses grazing. As I pass them I call out to them and they look up. Its so cute, I'm sure they understand from my tone alone that I think they are beautiful and I want to stroke their hair.

    Towards the end there are a few patches of colourful graffiti. It's such a contrast from the trees and waterfalls. It starts to rain lightly and I get worried about my choice to follow the longer more beautiful path. I might get caught by the rain and have to trek through mud. Thankfully it didn't start raining hard and I made it through this gorgeous tunnel emerging out to my final destination for the day. Only thing left now is to find my albergue.
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  • Pontevedra

    25 de marzo de 2024, España ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    I follow the Camino until I get to point where I turn off for the albergue. I arrive there at 10am and check-in is not until 1pm. I buzz the door anyway and ask if I can leave my bag. Thankfully they agree and I deposit my bag and wonder out exploring.

    I figure I should find the Virxe Pelegrina cathedral. It's now properly raining and cold. I'm not keen to explore. I just want to lay in bed and get warm. The cathedral is built to be in the shape of the pilgrims shell. From the inside you can see the roundness of the building. For 1€ you can climb 60+ steps to a viewing balcony that circles the place. I get my credential stamped and pay the fee to walk to the top. I instantly question my decision to climb when my body feels broken. There is a half way break going up where there are some benches. At the top there are these creepy children dolls and lots of memorabilia. If it was darker I'd be spooked. I venture out on the balcony. It's scary high and narrow. I make a complete circle around the cathedral then head back down.

    I still have another 2hrs to kill so I go to another cathedral wonder around all the Easter statues for the pending celebrations. Then I find a cafe to sit and wait out the time in warmth. I have my 1st sweet for the trip and a proper coffee this time.

    I check in to the albergue at 1pm sharp. I'm the 1st person here. The bed is like a cocoon with a privacy curtain and boxed in all around. This place is super clean. I'm in an all female room. The Canadian mum and daughter pair show up and hour afterwards. It's lovely to see them. They're really friendly and chatty so it's nice being around them.

    Today was an easy walking day. Only 13km scheduled but because of the way the Camino avoids the direct route I end up clocking in 21km and just over 30,000 steps.
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  • Rain

    26 de marzo de 2024, España ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    Day 4 of walking. Today is scheduled to be a longer day than yesterday and finally the weather forecast has turned to rain all day. I've been dreading this but knew it was a possibility. A couple of weeks ago it was scheduled to rain the whole trip so I'm grateful that I atleast got a few days of hot sunny weather at the start. All the weather apps say it should be relatively dry until around noon so I think a few of us planned our day to start early.

    Leaving the albergue this morning the common area was full of people organising themselves to set out around 6.30am. Some even got on the road before me. I left at 7.10am. The sun was not up yet but as there were so many pilgrims on the way I didn't have any apprehensive in setting off in the dark.

    Walking out of Pontevedra was very residential. Lots of streets to cross and beautiful houses. I enjoyed starting off with road walking as it is easier on my hips as I don't have to adjust so much for the uneven surface. Around 7.40 it starts a light sprinkle of rain. The pilgrims with ponchos start pulling them on. I have a poncho I got from a London bus tour years ago and I put that on as well. 8am the skies open up and its raining!
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  • 60km

    26 de marzo de 2024, España ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    I like seeing the way markers with simple kilometres mapped out. 60km seems like a nice milestone. A lot of the way markers would have numbers like 60.250kms or 67.880kms. Why would you choose to put a marker ar such random distances???

    I'm taking my opportunities when I can to take pictures. It's raining off and on with various levels of hardness. The trail goes off road to some beautiful paths. I set up my tripod constantly to get a picture of myself when it clears up a bit. This one couple pass me and I say hello and the lady pulls a face at me looking at my tripod in disgust. I brush it off, this is my Camino and if I want to document it with a million pictures I will. Since the brain injury my short term memory isn't great and I'm getting older so I know my memory as a whole will continue to deteriorate. I smile and wish them a Buen Camino each time I pass them after they 1st pass me while I'm taking a photo.

    There are some breathtakingly beautiful patches of woods in this section. Covered in this lush moss and looking like a fairytale. There are little streams of water, mini waterfalls, fallen trees with dark brown trunks and green moss. I kept saying wow out loud over and over. If it wasn't raining so much I'd of had a full photoshoot in the back there.
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  • Patches of sun

    26 de marzo de 2024, España ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    As I'm walking in increasing heavy rain lots of pilgrims take shelter under bus stops. I pass them and keep walking. I know myself and if I stop in that intense cold rain my body would seize up and it would be hard work to get moving again.

    I'm so happy I'm walking by myself. I don't have to negotiate with anyone to keep moving. I pass a few of the pilgrims from my albergue who set off before me. It reminded me again that I just need to keep to my own pace and not rush after anyone. A few of them were dressed more prepared than me with full rain gear, the trousers, poncho that fitted the backpack well, long sleeves and rubber coverings for their shoes. As the saying goes "clothes don't make the man". They had all the gear but no drive to keep moving in the rain.

    After a particularly heavy batch of rain the sun comes blazing out! It's hot like it never rained at all. That lasts about 30mins and the rain comes again.

    This section thankfully is on the roads again so walking whilst being drenched isn't so bad.
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  • Wrong way

    26 de marzo de 2024, España ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    For the last hour, I've been following these two girls. One of them has a poncho with the Camino shell, so she's easy to spot. It's lovely just walking behind them. I'm hardly looking at the way markers and I just trust they know the way. They also are going at a nice steady pace so the distance between us remains relatively the same.

    We pass the section where you can turn off and see the waterfalls. A few pilgrims drop off to go see it. It's a few kilometres off trail. I considered going for a split second then think I'm best off getting to my next stop. The girls ahead also don't stop and I blindly follow them.

    At one point I notice I'm gaining distance on them. Yhey have stopped walking and just stood on the path. As I near them I see they are examining their phones and one is saying that yes that's where we were supposed to go ... oh dear. I panic a bit because what if I've followed them off the path. I should have relied on myself for navigation. I don't even know if these 2 are responsible people. I check the app and I'm in the correct trail, also I'm almost in Calas de Reis!
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  • Caldas de Reis

    26 de marzo de 2024, España ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    I arrive in Caldas around noon. I am relieved to be here. Just under 5hrs of walking. My feet are doing well. The preventative blister patches are ensuring I don't get any new ones. I'm keeping on top of the one I developed on my left little toe and that's not getting any worse. Surprisingly in all that rain my feet are dry. I forgot that my trail shoes are waterproof. How smart of previous me to get that.

    I walk past the thermal baths. I consider stopping in there but I know if I do I would have to taxi to my accommodation. There is no way I can stop now. I seek out a place that has indoor seating so I can get a cafe solo and get warm until I can check into my albergue.

    I get my coffee and a pastry. The pastry was dry and not worth finishing. I take it to leave in the albergue for some pilgrim to enjoy. The albergue is ok, its freezing though. They have heating but didn't think to turn it on until asked. I of course asked as I hate being cold. There is a swimming pool and lovely outdoor space. If it was warmer I'd definitely make use of those.

    I bought my lunch & dinner from the grocery on the way here. I'm a creature of habit and craved yogurt, fruit and granola so had that for lunch and bread and cheese for dinner. I have to force myself to eat dinner as a melancholy mood hits me. I'm super down, teary eyed, not sure what's wrong. Not sure if I'm just freezing or tired but I need to shake this.

    I decide to venture out in the cold again and look for some of the highlights of the town. I find the thermal baths where pilgrims soak their feet. It's a traditional laundry pace. I've passed many of these on the walk. This one is special because the water that flows in is naturally heated 30C+ and has minerals good for healing sore limbs. Even though I didn't bring a towel I decide to go for it. It truly is relaxing. The bath is filled with friendly pilgrims and I get one to take my pic. It really lifts my mood and I feel instantly better. Not sure if it was the hot water, the friendly smiles or just getting outside. I'm glad I pushed myself.

    Today's step count just over 42,000 steps and 30km.
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  • Unloading

    27 de marzo de 2024, España ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    This morning, I set off quite early, 6.50 am as its forecast for torrential rain all day. I want to get to my next stop in good time, and there are a lot of people with the same idea. Caldas de Reis is one of the suggested stops on the Portuguese way. I haven't been stopping at the suggested stops until now as I wanted to visit the thermal waters. Because it's a popular stop, there are many pilgrims on the way. Leaving before me was a family, including a little girl who didn't look older than 10 years old. She was carrying a little backpack as well. What an interesting thing to do with your child. I'm sure she'll have these memories for a long while.

    Yesterday, as I was coming into the town, I was looking out for the 45km marker. There wasn't a way marker for that figure. 45km is poignant for me as it's the last distance marker I saw on the 100km walk I was doing before I got my brain injury in 2016. One of the things pilgrims do on their pilgrimage is to bring a stone from home that represents their burdens. They then leave the stone somewhere on the way to signal, leaving their burdens behind. I left my stone on the closest way marker to 45km.
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  • Sunrise

    27 de marzo de 2024, España ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    The girls from yesterday are back. They didn't stay at the same place as me but there they are walking at the same early time out of town. Today they are moving slower. I pass them easily. They are taking the breaks in the heavy rain to take pictures the same as I'm doing.

    Today I've got on two rain coats, one long one that buttons and has sleeves with elastic cuffs. That one is on my body under my backpack. Then the short poncho over my backpack. Its working well to keep me dry and warm ... a little too warm as my body is overheating, but my fingers are still freezing. This slightly concerns me as it was similar conditions back in Sept 2016. Cold rain and an overheating body. I'm on meds now that should prevent any blood clots so I should be fine. I start repeating that to myself and keep pushing on. This is part of the challenge to prove that my body can withstand a physical challenge. This is all metal now and nothing is going to stop me finishing this stage.

    I focus on the nature. There are cows and a calf suckling their mother. They aren't caged, just out in nature living their best cow lives. Thankfully my camera case is waterproof as I keep pulling it out to take pics. There is a memorial station where people hung up shells and other mementos, lots of churches and beautiful trees. The clouds look amazing even though they are a big source of my current pain.
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