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  • Paul Spaas
July 2024

NorthWeGo

Svalbard, Greenland and Iceland trip Read more
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  • Paul SpaasNorthWeGoTraveler

    Texas Bar

    July 15, 2024 in Svalbard and Jan Mayen ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    Did not go ashore this morning, as both submarines were in the same garage they were going to swap a submarine from one garage to the other to have space.

    Today started for guests with a landing at Texas Bar, the 'bar itself being a trapper's hut constructed in 1927 by two members of the Nois family. Located in Liefdefjorden, the hut is a piece of Arctic history demonstrating man's resourcefulness in an extreme environment. Built simply yet sturdily, it has stood the test of time, granting guests a glimpse into the harsh life of those who came here to hunt animals for their fur.

    Once back onboard Seabourn Venture, Expedition Team botanist Toby Musgrave presented a fascinating Conversation about Arctic plants. While he did so, the ship repositioned the short distance to Monacobreen, the large tidewater glacier at the end of Liefdefjorden.    Read more

  • Paul SpaasNorthWeGoTraveler

    Poolepynten

    July 16, 2024 in Svalbard and Jan Mayen ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Poolepynten was this morning's mesmerizing destination, a serene spit of land on the eastern coast of Prins Karls Forland in Svalbard. Its remote beauty was accentuated by the sight of two majestic walruses lounging on the shore. With their long tusks and wrinkled skin, these colossal creatures exuded an aura of ancient wisdom and tranquility.

    As guests observed them from a respectful distance, the sheer size and the deliberate, slow movement of the walruses on the beach left everyone in awe. It was a moment that made one feel small in the presence of these magnificent creatures. Captivated by this close encounter, guests snapped photos and whispered in excitement, not wanting to disturb the peaceful scene.    Read more

  • Paul SpaasNorthWeGoTraveler

    Alkhornet

    July 16, 2024 in Svalbard and Jan Mayen ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Moving on from the gentle giants of Poolepynten, the day's adventure continued with an afternoon visit to the dramatic bird cliffs of Alkhornet. Rising sharply from the sea, these cliffs were teeming with life and activity. Hundreds of Black-legged Kittiwakes and Brünnich's Guillemots filled the air with their calls, a cacophony that added to the wild charm of the place. The cliffs seemed alive, dotted with the black and white bodies of these seabirds nesting and flying in every direction.

    Guests were particularly thrilled to spot the agile and cunning Arctic foxes at Alkhorner, which roamed the area in search of food. Their presence added an element of surprise and excitement to the day. With their thick, pristine fur blending perfectly with the surroundings, they were a sight to behold. They watched as one fox stealthily navigated the rocky terrain, its sharp eyes and keen senses always alert.

    The Svalbard reindeer, grazing calmly on the tundra vegetation near the cliffs, added to the enchanting wildlife spectacle. Unlike their mainland relatives, these reindeer are smaller and more compact, adapted perfectly to their harsh Arctic environment. Their presence added a serene and pastoral touch to the rugged landscape, perfectly contrasting with the bustling bird colonies above.

    Guests couldn't help but express their delight and wonder at the variety of wildlife they had encountered. Every sighting was a new adventure, every moment a chance to learn and appreciate the delicate balance of life in the Arctic. They took countless photos, eager to capture the memories of these unique experiences.

    The bird cliffs at Alkhornet, with their vibrant ecosystem, and the serene, walrus-dotted shores of Poolepynten had provided an unforgettable highlight of the expedition. Throughout the voyage, the sense of camaraderie among guests has grown, bonded by shared experiences and a collective sense of wonder. Poolepynten and Alkhornet offered more than just visual splendor; they provided a profound connection to nature that left a lasting impression on everyone.

    Text and photos by Lorenz Thiele-Dohrmann.    Read more

  • Paul SpaasNorthWeGoTraveler

    Fogggggggggg

    July 18, 2024, Greenland Sea ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    FInally some work to do, and a long night it became. I was told my shift would be 2000-0400 to relieve the other bridge officers to reduce their time. However, it was not till 21.45 it became clear the schedule was changed but not shared and I was not supposed to start till 2200! Oh well, the damage is done, stay awake now! But, with the clock going an hour back what was supposed to be a 6 hour shift became thus 9 including the 2 hour error!Read more

  • Paul SpaasNorthWeGoTraveler

    Sailing around the ice

    July 18, 2024, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    But still foggy....

    What a day it had promised to be. Mediterranean-type seas, glorious sunshine, and a whole day's sailing. It was to be a day of relaxation, reflection, and socializing. The ship came to life slowly, with no expedition outings on the crossing. Guests enjoyed a leisurely breakfast, a cup of their favorite beverage in Seabourn Square, or a look at the array of screens in the Bow Lounge, displaying navigational data, radar screens and weather maps.

    But the warm air and cold water soon resulted in a mantle of fog across the sea. Notions of whale sightings and photos of birds in flight disappeared. The convection fog was created by temperature variation, much like a glass frosting when it is removed from a refrigerator. This would change as the voyage progressed, and the temperatures reversed, with cold air and warmer seas from the approaching land of ice and the Gulf Stream current.

    The Bridge officers and watchkeepers scanned their radar screens, always on the lookout for other vessels or obstacles that could threaten the safety of the ship. The screens remained blank, and the AIS was devoid of any tracking. The ship's complement went about their day, taking care of guests, refreshing suites, maintaining equipment, and finalizing outstanding reports because of the busy expedition days.

    The Expedition Team presented Conversation topics about the area and activities of interest: exploration and adventure in and around Greenland, the next stop for Seabourn Venture. Guests abounded in the public areas, chatting, reading or just relaxing. The restaurants served an array of delicious meals, and the bar staff kept the guests well-served. The bragging rights for the winners of the Team Trivia series were hotly contested: teams acquired new members and points racked up in pursuit of this accolade. The jigsaw puzzle in Seabourn Square progressed somewhat, and the library showed signs of above-normal use.

    All in all, it appeared that everyone had a good day.

    Text and photos by Ian Klynsmith.

    Today marks the second day at sea on this wonderful passage, crossing between Svalbard and Greenland. Seabourn Venture was shrouded in a thick blanket of fog all day, although it occasionally lifted to reveal the calm seas ahead. Besides a few Northern Fulmars trailing behind the ship, not much else could be seen in this vast expanse of water. Fortunately, the seas have been calm, allowing for pleasant cruising and the day's activities to unfold.

    With Expedition Team members posted around the ship, the day's first activity took place in the Photo Studio. Here, photographer John Shedwick presented a workshop on editing techniques and styles. Following this, a series of Conversations took place: kayak guide Rob Egelstaff, adventurer Riaan, and lastly, ornithologist JP.

    As the day continued, anticipation for the upcoming Greenland adventures increased. Will it be foggy? How much ice will there be? What can guests expect to see at Seabourn Venture's first port of call Ittoqqortoormiit? Everyone will have to wait and see.

    As the night closed in, some of the Expedition Team participated in a hilarious game of Liars Club, in which ridiculous words need to be defined, but only one of the team members is telling the truth. It was amusing to find out that words such as Quakebuttock and Bubaloobies actually exist in the English language.

    Text and photos by Sabine Henry.    Read more

  • Paul SpaasNorthWeGoTraveler

    Greenland, Scoresby Sund

    July 19, 2024 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    After five exhilarating days exploring the rugged wilderness of Svalbard and two days sailing the vast Greenland Sea surrounded by whales, Seabourn Venture finally approached the isolated shore at Ittoqqortoormiit in Greenland. The early morning sun cast a golden hue over the ice-covered landscape as its guests eagerly awaited their upcoming adventure.

    The early arrival of Seabourn Venture was a delightful surprise, catching guests off guard. The ever-prepared Expedition Leader, Udo, seized the opportunity and swiftly organized a spontaneous Zodiac cruise. The announcement reverberated through the ship, igniting a sense of thrill and anticipation among guests accustomed to the daily blend of adventure and luxury.

    After a hearty breakfast, guests gathered on deck, bundled up in their warmest outfits. Zodiacs, the ship's sturdy inflatable boats, were readied, and the Expedition Team briefed the enthusiastic explorers on safety protocols. Soon, they were flying over the icy waters, weaving through a maze of towering icebergs and watching seals basking on the floating ice floes.

    Upon returning to Seabourn Venture, guests were treated to lunch in one of the ship's restaurants. With its panoramic windows, the dining room offered stunning views of the Arctic landscape, elevating the gourmet dining experience to a whole new level. The room was filled with laughter and animated conversation as guests shared their morning adventures, feeling indulged and pampered.

    Nice map of Greenland, very scalable with lots of detail :

    https://kort.nunagis.gl/portal/apps/webappviewe…    Read more

  • Paul SpaasNorthWeGoTraveler

    Dive Dive !

    July 19, 2024 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    The afternoon was filled with even more excitement. Some guests seized the unique opportunity to explore the underwater world of the Arctic. The state-of-the-art submersible descended into the icy depths, unveiling a mesmerizing world of marine life and surreal ice formations. The sight of the ocean floor, teeming with life, was a thrilling and unforgettable experience, one that few people had ever imagined.

    Others chose to go ashore, attracted by the opportunity to witness the locals feeding their sled dogs. The sight of the energetic dogs, their thick fur coats glistening in the sun, was a poignant reminder of the deep connection between the people of Ittoqqortoormiit and their environment. The rhythmic feeding process, a blend of know-how and tradition, captivated visitors.

    Finally, guests strolled through Ittoqqortoormiit, a magnificent community amid an icy landscape. Its colorful houses starkly contrasted the white landscape, and the locals warmly welcomed their visitors. With its rich cultural heritage and stunning natural setting, the village left an indelible mark on everyone. Some guests were even ready to play football in the most remote field in the world, an unforgettable match.

    As the day ended, guests returned to Seabourn Venture with hearts full of the day's wonders. The day's expedition had offered a glimpse of the unique beauty and resilience of life in the Arctic, a memory they would carry long after returning to warmer climes.

    Text and photos by Charley Leblet.    Read more

  • Paul SpaasNorthWeGoTraveler

    Ittoqqortoormiit

    July 19, 2024 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Others chose to go ashore, attracted by the opportunity to witness the locals feeding their sled dogs. The sight of the energetic dogs, their thick fur coats glistening in the sun, was a poignant reminder of the deep connection between the people of Ittoqqortoormiit and their environment. The rhythmic feeding process, a blend of know-how and tradition, captivated visitors.

    Finally, guests strolled through Ittoqqortoormiit, a magnificent community amid an icy landscape. Its colorful houses starkly contrasted the white landscape, and the locals warmly welcomed their visitors. With its rich cultural heritage and stunning natural setting, the village left an indelible mark on everyone. Some guests were even ready to play football in the most remote field in the world, an unforgettable match.

    As the day ended, guests returned to Seabourn Venture with hearts full of the day's wonders. The day's expedition had offered a glimpse of the unique beauty and resilience of life in the Arctic, a memory they would carry long after returning to warmer climes.

    Text and photos by Charley Leblet.    Read more

  • Paul SpaasNorthWeGoTraveler

    Polar Bears !

    July 19, 2024, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    "It just keeps getting better" were the words so many guests spoke today.

    But seriously - how does one improve on the improvement one has just had? An improvement which, incidentally, was an improvement on the improvement just before that? It sounds impossible, unbelievable, even. It's an Ed Moses winning streak "esque" scenario.

    Put that on a loop, and it's what guests come to expect from an expedition on Seabourn Venture - every day.

    Deep inside the Arctic Circle, where guests are almost captive to one of the planet's greatest and most remote wilderness locations, such a scenario is not difficult to imagine. Here is the convergence of land masses and islands, all within a stone's throw of the North Pole. The ice cap of Greenland thaws just enough during the summer months to allow expedition ships to explore and discover.

    But even on an expedition voyage into this area, one also needs some luck and plenty of it. This is especially true for sightings of polar bears, shy whales or the ever-elusive narwhal. Last night, as the Arctic sun moved towards midnight and paused for those few hours of majestic golden light, the call came through: "Bears in the distance! Bears in the distance!" And not just one bear, but two.

    Seabourn Venture's bow decks were almost instantaneously bustling, all populated with camera and binocular-wielding guests. Some risked it more than others, wearing just the clothes they had taken themselves to bed in. That shows commitment to improvement. And so it should be.

    A show began to play itself out as Seabourn Venture expertly moved closer to the ice shelf, getting closer and closer to what now became four bears. And then five.

    A mother and her two well-grown cubs headlined the show with an inquisitive and decisive interest in the ship's presence. Standing on their hind legs, they looked like polar bears guests may only have previously witnessed in the "Planet Earth" documentaries, the simultaneous pronouncement of their elongated necks craning left to right and snouts in the air. The ship was close enough for guests to see the expansion of their chests as they inhaled for a more precise scent.

    Then, like any good show, came the drama. From around a mile away, a huge male bear had shown interest, not so much in the ship but more so in the aforementioned three. It is common for male polar bears to eliminate competition by attacking and killing cubs. What was to happen today? With a collective holding of breaths and a subsequent sigh of relief, guests witnessed how the mother and her cubs caught sight of the charging male and decided to run for open ice in precisely the opposite direction. They managed to get away.

    And all this unfolded directly in front of guests. No one was in the cheap seats. Watching the scene through binoculars brought it so close that one could see the bristles on the faces and even the reactions in the eyes of these bears.

    While guests sipped coffees and hot chocolates, they watched the bears into the early hours until, eventually, the Captain had to make the call for Seabourn Venture to return to its scheduled course. It had been an incredible "start" to a day.

    So, let's be realistic; taking this experience up a notch will be hard. Surely it can't get better? Or can it?

    Text and photos by Riaan Manser.    Read more

  • Paul SpaasNorthWeGoTraveler

    Scoresby Sund

    July 20, 2024, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    We did not make it far in at all, too much ice, more then the usual so a brief Zodiac cruise through the ice was done, but, beddy time for me, tired from the long nights, but, hey, that is what they pay me for, anything else is bonus!Read more

  • Paul SpaasNorthWeGoTraveler

    Romer Fjord

    July 21, 2024, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    The morning began with an ambitious plan to land at Rømer Fjord, a rarely visited area on Greenland's East Coast. However, the sea ice conditions prevented the attempt to reach the shore. Determined, Seabourn Venture continued southward along the coast until it reached a fjord where part of the Bartholin Bræ glacier flows into the sea. This area was nameless on our maps and uncharted territory for Seabourn, fueling a sense of adventure and anticipation about what might be discovered.Read more

  • Paul SpaasNorthWeGoTraveler

    Uunartoqartigajiip Kangersiva

    July 21, 2024, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Uunartoqartigajiip Kangersiva, a rarely visited fjord, virtually no depth soundings but we followed the only known route in and the ice was very little so we made it!

    After the ship was anchored, the polar bear guards went ashore to ensure the area was safe for a landing. They found some bear tracks close to the waterline, but after a thorough inspection, it was deemed safe to land.

    The coastline here is rugged and dramatic, punctuated every few kilometres by massive glacial tongues carving deep fjords as they descend to the sea. Guests spent the day exploring this seldom-visited region, reveling in the pure essence of exploration. The unknown stretched before them, turning imaginations wild with possibilities only revealed through firsthand experience.

    Excitement peaked when, from a distance, the bear guards spotted a polar bear walking along the shore. The bear sniffed the air before, fortunately, deciding to retreat the way it came, allowing guests to continue their exploration without incident.

    In the afternoon, one of the most anticipated moments of the voyage arrived: the polar plunge. This exciting tradition involves leaping into the icy Arctic waters. One by one, a group of intrepid explorers took the plunge, experiencing the shocking cold of the Arctic waters firsthand.

    As night fell, Seabourn Venture resumed its voyage southwards towards Iceland. Sailing through a sea covered in ice, guests were incredibly fortunate to witness a polar bear swimming in the tranquil coastal waters. The sight of two polar bears in a single day was an astonishing testament to the rich biological diversity of Greenland.

    This day of exploration, filled with the thrill of the unknown, breathtaking landscapes, and unforgettable wildlife encounters, truly encapsulated the spirit of adventure that defines an expedition cruise on Greenland's East Coast.

    Text and photos by Jean Paul Perret.    Read more

  • Paul SpaasNorthWeGoTraveler

    CDG

    July 25, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    CDG, Paris, not such a mess despite the day before the Olympics but very busy nevertheless, and, no luggage. But by the time that was clear and the last people left the belt we lost nearly an hour already. Then reporting to lost and not found, that took time, yes they found it, it would go on a different belt manually, but that never materialized so in the end a full report was made. However, we still needed to get to Orly with the train! So, the train ticket machines did not at first want to give a ticket all the way so one of the, abundant, helps on the station (you saw them everywhere, the French were really trying to have helping hands everywhere) took forever, and assistance, to come up with a ticket that was half price even (but that raised my suspicions of it being incorrect already). Anyway, station platform, well, A was not going in to the right station and B was, but delayed. However, while sitting in B awaiting it's delayed departure suddenly most people ran out across the platform to A?! What on earth?! So we did the same asking an attendant about the why, and, yes, train A was going in the right direction after all! Typical French organization.......anyway, as the door bell went just managed to jump on (thanks to the no luggage in tow......).Read more

  • Paul SpaasNorthWeGoTraveler

    Orly, just.....

    July 25, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    With a normal crossing of about 1 hour from CDG to Orly we were supposed to be able to make it, ......, if it was not for the fact the train went slow, delay after delay, so we ended up on the airport station for the airport shuttle already after closing time of the gate on Orly! Also not helped by the fact the ticket did not work as I suspected already and of course when you are in a hurry to buy the additional ticket a big fat woman was dithering going through a suitcase etc. to buy a ticket so we just missed the airport shuttle as well, it closed it's doors when we put the ticket in the gate machine! At the airport we ran to security where of course we ended up at the lane where they wanted everything out of the backpack, things that are never a problem now needed in separate boxes, and to add insult to injury, also the random drugs screening of the bag made us lose valuable minutes more to the gate, which, ......, was of course the furthest away one of the terminal. Out of breath at the terminal of course, closed, "we tried calling you numerous times bla bla", yes but we explained the story briefly why we were late, and, typically unFrench, they radiod the plane to see if we still could get on as the steps were being lifted. But, yes, the pilot agreed to wait so we were checked in manually (which of course also did not go very well and caused further delay) and made it on the plane with the steps just about pulled from underneath our feet while boarding.Read more

  • Paul SpaasNorthWeGoTraveler

    Brive Back

    July 25, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    So, in the end we made it to home airport, starving by now (I know, hard to imagine) but the first Pizza kiosk we found when we left the airport, and any subsequent one on the way home, was closed, we were late by 1 minute, story of the voyage (and as to now luggage does not seem to be found at all yet....). But what a voyage over all, memorable!Read more

    Trip end
    July 26, 2024
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