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Camino Primitivo
  • Rhys Bonney
  • Rhys Bonney

Camino Primitivo

En 14-dags äventyr från Rhys Läs mer
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  • Resans start
    30 april 2023
    Rhys BonneyCamino PrimitivoResenär

    Day 0: Oviedo

    29 april 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Today I arrived in Oviedo, planning to spend the day relaxing and keeping off my feet before starting the Camino tomorrow morning. Fat chance!

    I spent most of my day trying to get the official pilgrim passport which had become mysteriously hard to acquire, visiting various religious sites (some open, some closed) and making underhanded deals with priests to get what I needed.

    But I am here, I have my official credential and the poles I sent ahead. After 17,000 steps on my "rest day" I'll be spending my evening doing nada.

    I also tried a local delicacy for lunch called cachopo which is basically a jamon and cheese toastie where they use two steaks instead of bread. Now I'm round and slow.    Läs mer

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  • Rhys BonneyCamino PrimitivoResenär

    Day 1: Oviedo > Grado (26km)

    30 april 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We start with one of the longer days of hiking. I was surprised how scenic this walk was immediately, less than an hour from starting in the middle of the city it gets very green and cow-filled.

    Highlights of the day other than the great views you can see in the photos:

    - Cows, cows, cows
    - Dogs, dogs, dogs
    - Cats, cats, cats
    - Almost stepping on a giant snake
    - A jamon and queso sandwich for €2
    - The first beer after reaching the hostel
    - Getting the communal showers to myself so I don't have to cop an eye of too much sweaty sausage

    Downside of the day:

    -Top bunk

    Now I'm off to the supermarket because it's labour day tomorrow and I don't want to run out of cheese and haribo.    Läs mer

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  • Rhys BonneyCamino PrimitivoResenär

    Day 3: Salas > Tineo (22 km)

    2 maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Day 3: Salas > Tineo (22 km)

    I started the day like a gorilla in the most but rose above it, literally and figuratively, as you can see.

    Easy walk today other than getting my ass kicked for an hour at the start but there are the beginnings of whisperings of blisters, so taking it easy this evening and giving my feet some love.

    Highlights:

    - Suspicious cats
    - Free lunch
    - Baby goats
    - Cows, cows, cows

    Lowlights:

    - Angry foot
    - Carrying a small supermarket on my back for no reason other than poor impulse control
    - Suprise onion

    #camino #caminodesantiago #caminoprimitivo    Läs mer

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  • Rhys BonneyCamino PrimitivoResenär

    Day 4: Tineo > Colinas de Arriba (21k)

    3 maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    Day 4: Tineo > Colinas de Arriba (21km)

    Another reasonably relaxed one today though noone seemed to tell my feet that. I arrived at my hostel to find it has mini golf, but I don't want to stand for more than 2 mins at a time so I'll just be sitting here with a beer, hoying balls in by hand.

    Highlights:

    - Cat friend
    - Donut time
    - A Spanish person asked if I was Spanish
    - Cows, cows cows
    - Very green 💚
    - Hostel with golf

    Lowlights:

    - Too much tarmac
    - Not enough goats
    - SO HOT

    #camino #caminodesantiago #caminoprimitivo    Läs mer

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  • Rhys BonneyCamino PrimitivoResenär

    Day 5: Colinas > Berducedo (22km)

    4 maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    The most famous part of the route. I took the hospitales path which takes you high into the mountains with epic views. Weirdly today felt the easiest despite being up hill all day, probably because it was the first day that the sun was not actively trying to murder me.

    Highlights:

    - Views
    - Avoiding the weird guy all day
    - Cows, cows, cows
    - Clouds

    Lowlights:

    - Splinter
    - Lack of sleep due to insane snoring from above that sounded like someone trying to start a cat like a lawnmower

    #camino #caminodesantiago #caminoprimitivo    Läs mer

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  • Rhys BonneyCamino PrimitivoResenär

    Day 6: Berducedo > Grandes (24km)

    5 maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Today consisted of wanging down a giant hill down to a dam and then wanging back up the other side to a nice little town.

    10/10 would wang again.

    Highlights:

    - Frogs
    - Omelette Sanger
    - Hotel with balcony and my own room for first time
    - Cute cat
    - Cows, cows, cows
    - Successful avoidance of Canadian serial killer

    Lowlights:

    - Dicky stomach
    - Rumination
    - Cat attack

    #camino #caminodesantiago #caminoprimitivo    Läs mer

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  • Rhys BonneyCamino PrimitivoResenär

    Day 7: Grandes > Fonsagrada (26.5km)

    6 maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    The wet one.

    Highlights:

    - Getting a "Buen Camino" from the most famously awful bar owner on the route. almost a smile but not quite...
    - Waking up in my own room
    - Home made pastries for breakfast
    - New friends
    - Not dying on the last hill

    Lowlights:

    - Rain
    - New enemies
    - Nearly dying on the last hill

    #camino #caminodesantiago #caminoprimitivo #caminosantiago #caminos    Läs mer

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  • Rhys BonneyCamino PrimitivoResenär

    Day 8: Fontsagrada > O Cadavo (27.5km)

    7 maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    The famous leg wrecker day. Hours of downhill interspersed with some very steep climbs. Another day of slightly too beautiful weather leading to sunburnt hands of all things.

    Highlights:

    - Cute potato dogs
    - World's largest sandwich
    - Cookies for breakfast
    - First full day in Galicia

    Lowlights:

    - Too much hill, thank you.
    - The sun is trying to kill me

    #camino #caminodesantiago #caminoprimitivo    Läs mer

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  • Rhys BonneyCamino PrimitivoResenär

    Day 9: 0 Cadavo > Lugo (30k)

    8 maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    A long walk back to civilization, where we have to pretend to be normal human beings again around the washed public.

    Highlights:

    - Playing photographer for a group of old ladies in a stream.
    - Having a cat friend follow me for ages
    - Chatting with new friends along the way
    - Enterprising fruit stand guy with "pay what you want" melon oasis
    - Amazing ice-cream upon arrival in Lugo
    - Roman walls

    Lowlights:

    - A guy showed us his twig and berries outside a church
    - Long-ass walk
    - Sun trying to kill me    Läs mer

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  • Rhys BonneyCamino PrimitivoResenär

    Day 10: Lugo > Ferreira (27k)

    9 maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Completely uneventful and largely quite boring walk along roads. Things are starting already to look less like the Primitivo and more like the Francés, but some nice bits!

    Highlights:

    - I saw a stork flying around
    - No-one flashed us today
    - I have my own room in a converted animal shed
    - Listened to an excellent episode of "Fall of civilizations" podcast

    Lowlights:

    - Walking along roads is boring
    - Literally nothing interesting happened all day    Läs mer

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  • Rhys BonneyCamino PrimitivoResenär

    Day 12: Ferreira > Salcede (25k)

    11 maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    While it's still a pleasant enough experience, I can't say I'm enamoured with the route since it joined with the Francés. Way too many people and a different caliber of pilgrim... I'll say no more.

    Highlights:

    - Got through some interesting history podcasts while trying to ignore the chaos
    - Some cute cats and dogs
    - More toilets

    Downsides:

    - Route turned mostly to a concrete theme park

    One more day to go! (Maybe)    Läs mer

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  • Rhys BonneyCamino PrimitivoResenär

    Day 13: Salceda > SdC (27.3km)

    12 maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    The final day walking. Somehow I managed to find a sweet spot between the masses of pilgrims from the French way and spent half my day in the quiet on a surprisingly green route to Santiago to Compostela.

    I made it in fewer days than expected and now have a few to relax. Another post coming soon to close off this trip.

    Highlights:

    - Celebrating with new friends
    - Best Tarta de Santiago of the whole trip
    - Finishing the journey

    Lowlights:

    - Zero sleep due to snorer/sleep fighter below me
    - Too many people in S.D.C
    - Finishing the journey    Läs mer

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    Resans slut
    13 maj 2023
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