• Ian Stewart
  • Emma-Jane Stanbridge
heinäk. – lokak. 2023

Scandinavia Eurotrip 2023

93-päiväinen seikkaillu — Ian & Emma-Jane Lue lisää
  • Norway: Geiranger

    19. elokuuta 2023, Norja ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    This place gets a quick mention...it was on our way from where we hiked in Billingen to where we were going to next which was Alesund. This place -with it's many switchback roads - is incredibly beautiful and provides an excellent view of the fjords of Norway. As I keep doggedly saying to Emz, ' I can't believe that these fjords - absolute things of beauty - were formed by glaciers in the ice ages millions of years ago! It's also crazy to think that some of these rocks are older than bones! 'Bone' as a material only evolved 55mil years ago and some of these rocks are 2bil years old!' 🤯 Anyways, my compadre doesn't seem nearly as enthused about geology as I am and she just thinks it's funny that the whole glacier talk has kind of become a mantra for our trip.😔 I'll just have to keep 'chipping' away though and she might eventually come around to the idea...a bit like birdwatching🤓😏Lue lisää

  • Norway: Ålesund

    19. elokuuta 2023, Norja ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    So as a newly engaged couple, we left the hiking and the mountains behind us and headed to Ålesund, a town on the west coast of Norway. The name Ålesund we were told (by a Norwegian on our hike) means Eel Sound ('sound' as in water passage). I think this place is aptly named as what can be seen from my photos is how the water snakes its way around many islands in an eel-like fashion. The first night in Ålesund we could've spent phoning people to let the wide world know about our engagement, buuuuuut the Bokke were playing Wales and we had bought tickets to go and watch a local country band performing top American Country hits by Johnny Cash and the like. So engagement news was put on hold for a night. The Bokke thankfully smashed Wales and it was off to the Theatre Fabriken for the gig. The gig was good fun! Emz and I were definitely the youngest in attendance at this gig though by a looooong shot! It turns out the Norwegians like to dance though, so we got to sokkie and our heads must've looked like blonde and brunette boats, bobbing amongst the sea of greys and whites.
    The walk to the gig did give us a good view of the town and I think it was the best town we visited in Norway and would recommend the town to anyone visiting Norway. It is far smaller and also feels far less touristy than Bergen, yet still has really beautiful architecture and the beauty of all the little islands in the sounds.
    The next day we spent the morning engaging with the uninformed family and friends about our engagement. This was met with a lot of enthusiasm which was great from both family parties!😁 We then did another hike (yep, we can't seem to get enough of these bloody things!), but just to the view point over the city as can be seen from the photos. We also wanted to have a nice engagement supper in celebration, but forgot that it was a Sunday and in continental Europe, EVERYTHING seems to come to standstill on a Sunday! Or maybe we are the spoilt ones living in London where nothing is ever closed, who knows🤷🏻‍♂️ So the engagement supper was put on hold for now. Overall a great little town and one we both thoroughly enjoyed visiting!
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  • Norway: The Arctic Circle!!

    22. elokuuta 2023, Norja ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    The next 2 days after Ålesund were spent driving the slow roads of Norway northwards. So basically 6hrs in a car each day with me driving through the endless rain listening to podcasts whilst Emma slept! She can't nap during the day, but pop Emz in a car and she passes out within about 20min!
    The coolest part of us heading northwards though is we entered into THE ARCTIC CIRCLE!!😁 The latitude of 23.5° from the poles (correlating to the 23.5° tilt of the Earth on its axis) where one can experience a polar night (no sunrise) in Winter and Midnight sun (no sunset) in Summer. This line does change though as the Earth is never exactly at a 23.5° tilt. This is the furthest we've both ever been Northwards on land and - by all likelihoods- will be the furthest we ever go North on this planet of ours. Our final latitude reached was 67.07°N. We celebrated with a cold beer in a jacuzzi at these cute little Arctic Cabins that we were staying at.
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  • Sweden: Wild Camping

    23. elokuuta 2023, Ruotsi ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    So what goes up, must come down and since we had reached our northward most point, it was time for us to start following the swallows and heading back South. But first, we had to drive East to scoot around the Gulf of Bothnia (the sea btwn Sweden and Finland). The highlight of this drive eastwards into Sweden is we saw our first ever REINDEER!!😁 Only our 2nd animal in these desolate landscapes.😁

    Now, if you didn't know this already, Norway is regularly rated from various sources as the most EXPENSIVE country in Europe! Up there with Switzerland and Iceland. I think it's safe to say that if our credit card were a dog, its tail would be firmly tucked between its legs as we departed this beautiful country. So in this regard, we were happy to be heading back into Sweden (which I think highlights the fact that Norway is pricey when you start looking at Sweden as a 'cheap' country). But to hit the ground running with cost saving, we decided to exercise our "Allemansrätten", the Swedish word meaning "every man's right", which basically means you can camp anywhere free of charge (provided it's not right next to someone's house of course). We had had such a good experience earlier on our trip with these free shelters in the Swedish wilderness, that we thought this might be a good option. Well, where the other wild camping was one of the highlights, this was certainly one of the lowlights! With the shelter being a bit dilapidated and the road to it miserable (Olaf - our car - almost got stuck), we decided to move onto greener pastures. Sadly, it would seem our 'greener pastures' had been victim to Lord Kitchener's 'scorched earth policy' and were no better than the crappy shelter. We drove to a dead end in the forest and decided it was here that we'd camp. On closer inspection though, this area seemed to be someone's fly tipping haven, but we were both too tired to head out again and look for another spot. So we set up camp in a mosquito infested rubbish dump where I thought the tyre hanging in the tree really completed the Feng Shui of the place. A place to remind us that it's not all roses travelling and that will be remembered but which we would really hope to forget!
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  • Finland: Tornio Camping

    24. elokuuta 2023, Suomi ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    It was a vast improvement on our previous night's accommodation when we arrived to an actual campsite in Finland. Running water, electricity and no mosquitoes! Bloody luxury! It was also at this campsite that we would dive straight into a very Finnish thing to do i.e. using a SAUNA at the end of the day. And one way using a sauna is very different in Finland to more western culture, is that in Finland, this is done entirely in the nude (at this campsite, they did have separate saunas for men and women). So off I trotted to the men's sauna after sending Emz on her merry way to the women's sauna. Thankfully, a lifetime of hockey and cricket locker-rooms had prepared me for this so it was really no big deal to do this. However, I did feel I was the scrawny wing, in a locker-room filled with the forwards of an unfit, overweight, middle aged rugby team when I entered the sauna. Later, after I told Emz my story, she told me of her sauna experience. By the sounds of it, if I had the back row forwards in my sauna, then Emz had the tight-head prop in her sauna. A poor lady that probably hadn't seen her foof in years by the sounds of it! Anyways, an interesting experience all round.

    Our last night at this camp was spent having a braai and sipping wine whilst watching probably a once in a lifetime demolition by the Springboks over the All Blacks! A truly incredible experience and for almost the first time, both Emz and myself were homesick to London as I think almost every expat Saffa we know was in attendance to that historic game! I just hope we haven't peaked too early! Come on Bokke!🇿🇦💪

    It's also important to note that Emz won her first game of Scrabble at this campsite! As revenge, she beat me on her final move when I was leading. Our games are anything but tight!
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  • Finland: Rovaniemi

    25. elokuuta 2023, Suomi ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Whilst camping in Tornio, Emz had read of this place in Finland called Rovaniemi, "the capital of Lapland and home to Father Christmas himself." I mean, it does sound like it'll be a cute and quaint city with cool architecture doesn't it? I'd also seen similar things on the internet, so it was decided that we'd do a day trip back up to the edge of the Arctic Circle to see this place. Well, I guess it was quaint and cute...if your definition of these terms is a concrete jungle stylised in that 'awe-inspiring' architecture of a communist Russia. But to us, this place felt like a wrong turn and a wasted trip. Thankfully, I was able to 'save the day' when I found that nearby to Rovaniemi, was a place called 'Santa Claus's Village', the home of Father Christmas himself. Now, if you ask Emz what she thought of this place, she'll say things like 'kitsch', 'tacky' and 'cringeworthy', but deep (deep deep) down, I think she really loved this place! I mean, as 30 something year olds, we got to sit on THE Father Christmas's lap! I mean, what's not to love?!😁Lue lisää

  • Finland: Quaint cabin near Vaasa

    26. elokuuta 2023, Suomi ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    This day we drove down the Eastern side of the Gulf of Bothnia and visited some cute little towns on the sea like Raahe, Kalajoki, Kokkola and Jakobstad. Kalajoki had a beach area with large houses that would not be out of place at any of the SA popular coastal towns. This is where we had lunch. The other 3 places had nice old wooden styled town centres which made them worth passing through. We ended up staying in an Airbnb near Vaasa. This was a lovely, old cabin that had been tastefully modernised , situated in a slightly off of the beaten track farming community. The cabin was built in the 1800s and the landlord told us that the original owner had his wife and 7 kids living in the cabin! I must say, we were struggling to picture where they put them all in this tiny little cabin! But I guess in those days you just made do with what you had. This day was also probably our 6th day out of about 7 weeks where we did not have a single drop of rain! We celebrated this by playing a classic Finnish game called Molkky - an excellent lawn game which we were already well acquainted with.Lue lisää

  • Norway: Turku

    27. elokuuta 2023, Suomi ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    This was just a quick stopover at this city in the West of Finland on the Aura River. As with most of the Finnish cities, we found that they had some really nice areas, but then some areas really reminiscent of communist Russia and not very picturesque at all. Turku fitted this mould exactly. Picturesque by the river and not so much elsewhere. We still enjoyed this city though.Lue lisää

  • Norway: Mathildedal and Fiskars

    28. elokuuta 2023, Suomi ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Through an absolute deluge of rain, we stopped at these 2 towns on our way to Helsinki. Both towns started off as iron forgeries - Mathildedal in the 1850s and Fiskars in 1650s. Both towns were great historic examples of their eras and Fiskars was particularly interesting. The company 'Fiskars' which was the company that started the iron forgery all those years ago in the town of its namesake, is still running today! This makes it one of the oldest companies in the world! They're also listed on the Finnish SE. They had a lovely museum which we spent some time in. Now, we had never heard of the company Fiskars, but when we saw their most famous product, we realised that almost every family in South Africa that we know, would know this product and hence this company. They made the orange handled scissors that I think virtually every household had or still has today. We definitely had a pair! The company have sold about 1 billion of these scissors btwn 1967 and 2011. Very interesting!Lue lisää

  • Finland: Helsinki

    28. elokuuta 2023, Suomi ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    And off to the capital we went for just a night as by this time, we were keen to start getting into the Baltics. Helsinki, like mentioned previously about most of Finland, had some nice parts to it, but it was mostly blocks of flats with minimal awe-inspiring architecture. However, the city did seem to have its own charm to it.
    I'd messaged an acquaintance who lived in Helsinki and she gave us some useful tips and places to go to. The first place we visited was called Sompasauna - a public, mixed gender sauna that was of the old school wood burning variety saunas- on the edge of the Baltic. We were a bit nervous as to what we were getting ourselves into as you have to drive through a building site to get to the place. Once you arrive, it looks like 3 grafitti'd shacks with a mixed bunch of naked people and people in cozzies standing around. However, this ended up being one of our favourite experiences in Finland! We don't have any photos from the place as photography was not allowed, but basically it was a community run, public sauna. That means that anyone can use the sauna, the sauna was completely free to use, provided you helped keep the sauna running in some way or other eg chopping up wood or collecting water for the saunas. This definitely gave the place a very hippie, Afrikaburn feel to it. You could also sauna either in your cozzie or in the nude. The saunas ran hot, but there was no judgement on how long you stayed in, what your body type was, whether you were a man or a woman and whether you wore clothes or not. Due to the heat from the saunas, we thankfully had the option of cooling off in the Baltic Sea. Yep, I never thought I'd say it given my adversity to cold water, but we both swam in the Baltic Sea! Twice! A really good experience overall and one that both Emz and I really enjoyed!

    That evening, we walked to the Kallio district which is a sort of hip and trendy district. We managed to find a karaoke bar that was filled with Science and Biology undergrad students about to start their next year of varsity. They were all in their overalls, singing and dancing happily and it gave Emz and myself both a fair bit of nostalgia for our own university days. I decided that we should try the local Finnish liquor for the first time, so I ordered a shot of Salmiakki and a shot of Minttu for each of us. The former's flavour is salted liquorice and the latter is mint! 2 of Emma's favourite flavours!!😂 She was not impressed by what Finland had to offer in this department.😂 Still a good night overall though!
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  • Estonia: Talinn

    29. elokuuta 2023, Viro ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    This place definitely ended up being a hidden gem of our trip! A place filled with medieval architecture and not too touristy, it was definitely one of the best cities we have visited! The first day was spent just walking through the old town taking in the sights. The next day we went to the KGB prison museum where the KGB used to detain and 'interrogate ' anyone that was possibly an 'enemy of the people of Russia' during the USSR communist era. This place had some of the worst atrocities performed to people and many of the people that went through this place ended up dead or, worse, being sent to the gulags of Siberia. That afternoon we went to a medieval themed bar where all the waiters were in medieval costumes and where we tried some drinks based on medieval recipe eg spiced wine and honey beer. In the evening, we went to a local brewery and tried the local food which was really nice! We had also tried 'Valge Klaar', a Estonian soft drink and Karums curd snacks which are delicious! Overall, Talinn was great and worth a visit for anyone!Lue lisää

  • Latvia: Riga

    1. syyskuuta 2023, Latvia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    And so it was onto Riga we went...another beautiful capital city in the Baltics! More cobbled streets and great medieval architecture. 😍One thing we didn't know, is that it's actually the basketball world cup on at the moment. The 2nd thing we didn't know, is how big basketball is as a sport in these Baltic countries!🤯 The pubs are packed and they've even got fan parks for this! We've also been fortunate enough to see each team since Finland playing whilst in their home country. I've never really been into Basketball, but I must say, it is tough not to enjoy it when there's a whole crowd of people cheering! Anyways, we found one of these fan parks in Riga and it was very exciting when Latvia beat Spain to get through to the QFs which they are playing tomorrow.
    Our attention in Riga then turned to the food. We still felt like we hadn't had a proper engagement supper, so we managed to get a spot at a really quaint little restaurant serving traditional Latvian cuisine. This place ended up being great! Emz had potato pancakes with pickled herring as a starter and fried herring with mash as a main. I had a grey pea salad (peas which are only grown in Latvia which is quite cool) and EEL (yep, eel! 1st time over ever eaten it) and mash as a main. We both quite liked the eel despite Emz's initial trepidations. We then shared another interesting dish called a rye bread soup for dessert. Overall another good stay in a Baltic capital and it was now time to see what the Latvian countryside had to offer!
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  • Latvia: A day of let downs

    2. syyskuuta 2023, Latvia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We left Riga and embarked on what was to be our 7th day out of 7 weeks of no rain of the trip! (Incidentally, as I'm writing this a few days after, I can safely say we've now managed to put the umbrellas away for a week! The weather really has improved as we've gone further south). But that ended up being one of the only good things of this day. We decided to go more 'off the beaten track' and head into the Latvian countryside to see what that had to offer as for now we'd been sticking to the capital cities. Well, it seemed all the Latvian countryside had to serve us was what Brussel sprouts are to an 8 year old kid! We wanted to go to a bread museum, but they closed their door to us as we hadn't booked in advance (even though I had emailed them in advance to which they never replied). We went onto plan B which was to see an open air farm museum showing off buildings of what farmers typically had in the Latvian 1800s. Sadly they only accepted cash which we didn't have, so another door was unceremoniously closed in our faces. Thus we turned to plan C which was to go see the Catholic Basilica in the town Aglona. This apparently was the founding church of Catholicism and thus Christianity in Latvia, so it did hold some importance. The church was actually quite impressive and ended up being worth the visit. It was then onto our accommodation which was a bit of a train wreck in itself! The place had a sauna, but no kitchen facilities or shower/bath facilities! I think the thought of having a sauna, not having a place to shower and climbing straight into bed gave Emma the heebie-jeebies!😂 Thankfully we had cooking equipment, so supper wasn't a problem, but it was a no shower kind of night. Plus the place was plagued by mozzies and the room freezing 🥶. Definitely in our bottom 3 places of accommodation for the trip!Lue lisää

  • Lithuania: Driving to Vilnius

    3. syyskuuta 2023, Liettua ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    So once again - since I'm not writing these updates daily - I am fortunate to have the benefit of Joel Stransky's hindsight in some of these posts. So, with hindsight, we can now rank the Baltic countries on how they appeared and what the general feel was for them. Latvia was by far the most run down. Loads of abandoned, run down buildings in the countryside. Odd concrete blocks of flats randomly in the countryside that appeared to be very poorly maintained and overall, seemed to be the country with the weakest economy and national pride. Lithuania was by far the most affluent looking with all the buildings (no matter how rural) really well maintained. The cities were all neat and really clean and well maintained. Lithuania was also heavily forested and felt a lot more wild than Latvia. Estonia fell somewhere in the middle between these 2 in our assessment.

    The photo depicted here is of a horse shoe bend in a river in Lithuania. This is the closest we came to Belarus with us being only 2.5km from the border at this point. Belarus, with its more than friendly ties with Russia and ties with the Wagner mercenary force, has been a country that we haven't even considered on our trip and probably rightly so. It was near to this point where we saw a train carrying probably about 20-30 tanks and we also passed multiple military vehicles in this region, which is possibly a foreboding sign of things to come!😳😬
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  • Lithuania: Vilnius

    3. syyskuuta 2023, Liettua ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    After a hair raising parking experience at the hostel where Olaf JUST squeezed through the gate into the hostel parking, it was time to explore the city. I think parking though almost gave Emz a heart attack. Vilnius quickly became one of our favourite cities! Loads of green spaces, super clean, the medieval architecture and cobbled streets once again and excellent food was all that awaited us. It also seemed we arrived on the wkd of the Vilnius Festival, so they had loads of stages with local bands playing...it created a very festive atmosphere despite us not knowing what they were singing about!😂
    We explored more of the city the next day and hiked up to this beautiful viewpoint that looked across the city. It was then time to head to one of the picturesque cafés and try the local cuisine which ended up being delicious! A cold beetroot soup for starters, potato and pork dumplings and a stacked herring salad similar to the old fashioned '7 later salad.' We were both very impressed! That evening we met some fellow travellers in the backpackers and it was interesting chatting to a French guy that had just been to St Petersburg, Russia to visit his girlfriend.😳 He says that the city carries on as before, but the place is littered with propaganda to sign up to the Russian military. Probably some more ominous signs of what is to come.😬 We also met a very interesting German guy who was in his 60s staying at the backpackers. This guy was truly fascinating! 1stly, he had just come from Minsk in Belarus which was interesting enough. But to add to this, he is completely fluent in English/German/Russian and French! He also had fascinating stories about the cold war and divided Germany and how things were like in those days. His knowledge of the local history and customs of Eastern Europe was unparalleled. His job was to assimilate Russian refugees with German heritage into Germany, but he did have a spy-like aura to him. Anyways, Vilnius is definitely a place to be recommended by us and the interesting people we met along the way was certainly a bonus!
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  • Poland: Bialystok

    5. syyskuuta 2023, Puola ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Just a quick overnight stop and our first impressions of Poland were very different to what I was expecting! I had an image of Poland being just another cheap, run down Eastern European country. Well, yes, it is cheap, but quite the contrary otherwise! Poland has some incredible countryside from forests to farmlands and really had a SA feel to it (probably aided by the great weather we were experiencing here too!). The houses are all really well kept and the farms immaculate! On our way to this city, we passed again close to Belarus and went through parts of what remains of the oldest forest in Europe (The Bialowieza Forest). It was in this area that I saw an actual wild EURASIAN WOLF!!!!😁😁😁 Such a rare and lucky occurrence with almost no one I know being able to boast the same claim! It was however very fleeting (it ran across the road in front of me from 1 side of the forest to the other), so sadly Emz didn't get a chance to see it either.😔
    Bialystok was a nice, non touristy city with a small but nice old town and it was definitely worth staying the night. We were also shocked at how cheap everything was. Poland is by far the cheapest country we have stayed in up to this point. Things were definitely looking up in Poland!☺️
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  • Poland: Kazimierz Dolny

    6. syyskuuta 2023, Puola ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    So this was another 'off the beaten track' recommendation and this one FINALLY paid off! This little medieval town, on the banks of the Vistula River - the river that snakes its way though the whole of Poland- charmed us in more ways than 1! By now we had seen many a medieval town, but this town now exposed us to the scintillating Polish cuisine! Once again, our expectations were not above the limbo stick but our supper in this little town ended up being one of our best suppers on the whole trip! Of particular delight was the 2 starters; a duck and vegetable soup with a hint of citrus and a steak tartare with egg yolk. Absolutely delicious!🤤 Emz's main was a vegetarian twist on a Polish dish (Golabki) where cabbage and quinoa were wrapped almost in like spring rolls and I had a more generic pork schnitzel with mash and a delicious cucumber salad which was also delicious despite its simplicity. We also had lovely sundowners on the bank of the Vistula and it honestly felt like it wouldn't be amiss if a hippo popped its head out of the water.😂 Another town to win us over to Poland as an excellent country to visit!Lue lisää

  • Poland: Krakow (Wieliczka Salt Mine)

    8. syyskuuta 2023, Puola ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    On our first day in Krakow, I decided to indulge in Emma's love for geology and mining and head with her to an underground salt mine at the edge of Krakow. Wait, maybe it's my love for geology and mining🤔...who knows🤷🏻‍♂️ but we went there anyway. So now a salt mine might not sound like many people's idea of a fun day out, but this is no ordinary salt mine! Well, if anything, this place feels like you've just walked onto a Lord of the Rings fantasy set and I was almost surprised to NOT see little dwarves running around with their mining tools. Blocks of salt have been excavated here since the 13th century that they've now dug out 200km of tunnels underground! It was also due to this salt mine that Poland was relatively wealthy in the middle ages due to salt being such a highly valuable commodity in those days. So much so, that the mine used to pay the miners in salt and that's how the word 'salary' came about. What is interesting about this place, is that the miners would spend really long periods underground. So because of this, they essentially built a 'town' underground! All carved into the salt! This included a chapel, a bar, a dining hall and even horses! They also supported all these cavernous halls and passageways with wood which was interesting as one would expect the wood to decay with time. But, seemingly counterintuitively, this is not the case! The salt acts as an antibacterial preventing decay and the wood actually gets stronger with salt and its dehydrating properties, meaning that some of the wood is 100s of years old! Iron/steel is not used at all as it'll just rust away, thus, even after the age of industrialisation, they continued to use just horses/ropes and counter balances to get the salt to the surface as machinery wouldn't last long in the mine. The mine closed about 15 years ago as it's now too expensive to mine salt vs the surface dehydration methods used these days. Still an unbelievable place and it's amazing what has been carved just out of salt!Lue lisää

  • Poland: Krakow city and Jewish quarter

    8. syyskuuta 2023, Puola ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    The next couple of days were spent exploring the city itself and the Jewish quarter. The old town was similar to many European cities with a massive square, horse drawn carriages and quaint buildings along cobbled streets. This was by the most touristy place we had been to though in a long while and it took some adjusting to the crowds of Krakow. But there's a reason it's touristy! Krakow is a renowned party city (hence the crowds) and I guess if you can't beat 'em, join 'em!😁 So we did go to one of the famous underground clubs on the 1st night to squeak a bit of tekkie which was fun!🥳On the 2nd day, we went to what once was a large Jewish quarter. Sadly, this community was decimated during WW2 and has never recovered. The Nazis had also set up a Jewish ghetto between 1941-1943 prior to sending the Jews to extermination camps and there is still a piece of this wall remaining. We then went to a photo gallery museum basically depicting what remains of the Jewish plight within Poland post WW2 which was very interesting but also quite a depressing sight to see. We never got a chance to go, but also in Krakow is Oskar Schindler's enamel factory where he saved 1200 Jewish lives at great risk to his own. He is one of if not the only member of the Nazi party to be honoured in Israel.Lue lisää

  • Poland: Auschwitz

    10. syyskuuta 2023, Puola ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    This is probably one of the most sobering places that anyone could ever wish to go to. I've read many nonfiction and fiction books on this place as I've always tried to understand how human beings could do such things to one another. I think- since leaving here- I've been left with more questions than answers. It's an absolutely mortifying place. One would expect it to be so, but it was even more so than I imagined. The only way in which it is 'interesting', is to see how carefully the sadistic Nazis planned this, the macabre systems put in place to murder people on an en masse basis and the lengths they went to to hide their crimes. Everything was planned for from the start for their Final Solution to the 'Jewish Problem'. For example, all the death camps were built in Poland and not Germany for fear of reprisal from the German civilian population if they ever found out. Poland was also selected as it had the largest Jewish community in Europe at the time (over 3mil Jewish people). They chose Oswiecim (the town in Poland germanised to 'Auschwitz') for its excellent train transport links to the whole of Europe. They cleared a 10km radius around the camps so no one would know what was going on ie the only people intended to leave the camp were the SS officers. The list goes on. As tragic as this place is, I do think it is almost a place that everyone should visit. Empathy, integrity and respect were completely lacking in this place and visiting this foul place reinforces the fact that EVERYONE is deserving of these attributes. Sorry, some of the images are sadly quite disturbing, but people need to understand the horror of this place so as not to forget one of the worst events of history.Lue lisää

  • Poland: COME ON BOKKE!!😁🥳🇿🇦

    10. syyskuuta 2023, Puola ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    After a depressing morning at Auschwitz, our mood was thankfully improved when we went to watch the Springboks play at an Irish pub in Krakow. The pub was packed with almost exclusively SA expats! We ended up having such a lekker jol after meeting Christi and Piotr, 2 fellow Saffas who are currently living in Krakow. We might've won the rugby, but our heads the next day certainly felt like they were on the losing side. Come on Bokke!!!😁🇿🇦🇿🇦🇿🇦Lue lisää

  • Poland: Zakopane

    12. syyskuuta 2023, Puola ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    So after a good victory by the Bokke, it was time to leave Krakow (with only a mild kopseer🤕) and head further south in Poland to their ski resort town called Zakopane. So yep, skiing in Winter, and HIKING in Summer.😁 Now we were warned that this town is the holiday centre of Polish tourism and that it can be quite busy, but we weren't prepared for just how busy it was to be! The town was heaving! Absolutely packed and on a Monday! We had been recommended to go on a hike to an alpine lake in the Tatra mountains called Morskie oko, but we were advised to leave at 4:30am (!😳) in the morning to avoid the crowds on the trail. Emz and myself decided we'd seen some really nice lakes in Scandinavia and it seemed unnecessary to go and elbow our way through hundreds of other tourists to see something similar. So we found our own trail in the mountains which was just as nice to us and had far fewer people. ☺️Lue lisää

  • Slovakia: Spis

    13. syyskuuta 2023, Slovakia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Slovakia, the land of castles! It was just a quick 2 night stay in this smallish country, but what's fascinating about Slovakia is this little country has more castles per capita than any other country in the world! So the first day we spent exploring one of the better known castle ruins by the name of Spis Castle, which is a massive castle on a very dramatic hillside in the more eastern part of the country. In fact, it is one of the largest castles in Europe and was built in the 12th century (so almost 900 years ago!). The next day we were due to do some more exploring, but the weather was - for the first time in a while - miserable. So we ended up having a catch up day at the hostel instead. That evening, we went to a local restaurant to try some Slovakian food. Once again the starters were delicious with a homemade duck pâté that Emz and I shared. For mains, I had essentially a pork roast and Emz had some Slovakian potato dumplings. Both meals were delicious! The next day we visited another castle ruin by the name of Sasov castle on our way to Hungary. A far smaller 14th century castle but still quite impressive for how it was built on this steep hill on the edge of a cliff face. They'd also dug a tunnel into the mountain where they used to place large blocks of ice cut out from the river below to use as a sort of rustic fridge which was also interesting to note. Overall, Slovakia was a brief visit. The country is probably a little more run down that some of the other Eastern European countries, but interesting all the same!Lue lisää

  • Hungary: Budapest

    16. syyskuuta 2023, Unkari ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    So after Slovakia, we headed for Budapest, Hungary. Emz might be sick of me using the country's name as a pun and jokingly saying,'Emz, are you Hungary?' I still don't think the joke gets old.😂 Anyways, Budapest! Probably one of the most beautiful cities (certainly large cities) that I've seen in Europe! Really picturesque! I didn't realise that Budapest is actually 2 cities (Buda and Pest) that are separated by the Danube River (one of the largest rivers in Europe). They're basically one large city now, but it was interesting to note. Buda is on the far more hilly side whereas Pest is on the flat plain next to the Danube, so running in Buda felt like running in Simons Town where everywhere you go is up! The first day we visited something that is truly a historic legacy. It is a stretch of railway that is run by CHILDREN aged 10-14 years old! It was a programme started by the Soviets in the 1950s apparently to try to get children more interested in the railway so that they might eventually start working in this field. That's the official reason anyway. To me, it sounded more like child labour and just a way to get more people to work! Anyways, I think now it is a prestigious thing for the kids to do and the train line is still running today! The kids do everything! They take your money, issue tickets, check the tickets, do the accounting and do the signalling on the train! This train runs 7 days a week so apparently only the academically strongest child applicants are accepted to do the work as they have to miss school for short periods during the week to do their transportation duties. What was also really cool was we were on the steam train line which added to the experience to be going on something so historic.
    That evening we walked down to the Fisherman's Bastion which gives great views of the city from the Buda side and it really was beautiful!
    The next day we went to a public bath house which Budapest is famous for! These large bath houses I'd honestly thought were a thing of the past but in Budapest, they're still thriving! A ticket to the bath house gives you access to these large outside pools as well as many smaller indoor pools plus saunas and steam baths, all at varying temperatures. It really was a must visit! We spent a couple hours there until all our fingers and toes looked like my late Nanna Molly's digits.🙈 After this, we walked around the Pest side of the city. This side was also really pretty with many street lined cafes and bars, old tram lines and we also went and saw the largest synagogue in Europe. One would think we finally saw something positive w.r.t. the European Jewish community's plight during WW2, but - even though the synagogue made it through the war- it was at this synagogue that the dead (from starvation) Jewish people of the ghetto were found when Budapest was liberated by the Soviets. Sadly most bodies were not even recognisable by the end of the war as the Jewish community were not allowed to bury the dead.
    That evening we then went and watched the Bokke thrash Romania and then went and had goulash for supper, a typical Hungarian meal. The food was okay, but nothing exceptional. Overall a great city though, but we would say the people in general were some of the unfriendliest we've met on our travels.
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  • Hungary: Heviz

    18. syyskuuta 2023, Unkari ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Heviz: a small little town near the edge of Lake Balaton (the largest inland lake in central Europe). It was just a quick stopover so as to break up the driving on our way to Slovenia, so no photos were taken here. The only thing of note was that we finally met a friendly Hungarian at our Airbnb (although he might've been friendly, but their dog certainly wasn't with it had strong house guarding tendencies 😂). The only other thing to note here was that Emma thrashed me in Scrabble.😢 She did have the perfect storm in getting the Z, the Q, the J, 3 S's and both blanks though, but still, a thrashing nonetheless.😔 That means Emz has now won the last 3 games and I'm worried what the future holds for me against her in Scrabble.😔Lue lisää