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Camino Del Norte 2022

Temmuz - Eylül 2022
First time walking the Camino del Norte Okumaya devam et
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  • 954kilometre
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  • GezginCamino Del Norte 2022
    Gün 22

    Santoña to Noja

    9 Ağustos 2022, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We are up and ready to go at 8:30am, we meet George at the front door, and walk to breakfast, then head off ready for our day of walking, its not a very long walk today, so we are not in a big rush. We head out of town with quite a few locals going for their morning walk. After about 20 minutes we are passing the El Dueso prison, the walls are high and yes, this is definitely an active prison, there is police detail everywhere, we keep walking, nothing to see here. Soon we hit our first town for the day, it is a little cute surfer town. There is a big 4 star hotel that dominates this town called Juan de la Cosa. Fun fact: Apparently Juan de la Cosa was a 15th Century cartographer, he is credited to have created the first map of the Americas and is the only cartographer to have witnessed first hand the first voyage of Columbus. We keep walking and just after we leave Berria we follow the blue Camino trail thinking this is going to be the easier route out of our two options for today. We are so WRONG and end up walking over a very sketchy hill that is sandy, rocky, slippery, narrow and a briar-lined goat track, it wound up and then down for the next hour or so. I have never been so happy to get off a hill as I was with this one. Once we felt the sand from the beach under our feet and I had swallowed my heart back down my throat and pushed it back into my chest, we decide to just stay on this beach and not divert off to follow the Camino, we make our own path for the rest of the way to Noja. We map our way to La Casona, we can't check in until 3:30pm so we sit in the restaurant that is under our accommodation, have a few drinks and then some scrumptious lunch. We then book into our place, shower, and head to the laundromat to do some long overdue washing, I can't wait for the smell fresh clothes, it's the little things.Okumaya devam et

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  • GezginCamino Del Norte 2022
    Gün 23

    Noja to Güemes

    10 Ağustos 2022, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    The alarm goes off at 7am, I am not ready to get up yet, so I sleep for another half hour. I then hop up and start with the usual chores, pack up my things and head down stairs to check out and meet up with George. We find a bar in the plaza and order our coffees, then on goes the backpacks and off we head for our day of walking. We walk on roads all day, they range from quite bitumen to quite dirt roads, there is not a lot of climbing today, which is very welcome. It is overcast with a slight breeze when we start this morning but, it soon heats up, the clouds disappear, as does the breeze and the sun is now high and dominating the sky. It’s a really hot walking day, shade is hard to find and we break where we can. Our first opportunity is nothing more than a mirage - the cafe doors are open, the awnings are being rolled out but, no, they are not open, we are skirting around the towns, so have little to no options. After climbing a hill we find a big old oak tree on the side of the road, there is enough room under the shade of this old gentleman's branches to sit and rest for awhile, so off comes the backpacks and we just sit and relax for the next 10 minutes. After this mini break we get back on track, we walk for another 10 minutes or so, George sees a camping ground with buildings up ahead, so asks a man taking out his trash if there is a bar up there, the man nods and ends up walking us to it. We all have cold drinks and sit for the next 1/2 hour or so, then it's back to the road - these kms are not going to walk themselves. We arrive in Güemes and festivities are underway, there are 2 bars in town and they are both overflowing with well dressed families and friends all chatting, laughing and having a great time. Cue the smelly, daggy pilgrilms, in we walk and George happens to snag us a table, so we sit, drink, eat, chat, laugh and enjoy watching all the happiness that is surrounding us, we stay for a least an hour before pushing on for our final 1.5km. The last segment of our walk is extremely hot, not a breath of air and mainly up and down on a bitumen road, we get to our albergue, are given a drink of water on arrival, check in, are shown to our beds, then shower and find a cool spot under some trees and relax. The albergue we are staying at is a very special one and could quite possibly be the best one on all camino routes. It's called La Cabaña del Abuelo Peuto and is run by Ernesto and a team of volunteers, we sit and listen to a talk on the history of this albergue and the life of Ernesto, he was born in the original building and has dedicated his life to helping others across the world. Tonight there are 87 pilgrims staying at this albergue, we have a communal dinner where we are all feed at once, the meal is divine and one of the best I have had thus far, it consists of fresh bread rolls, a broth with meat and veggies, bottles of red wine, jugs of water and yoghurt. This albergue is a donativo, which means you pick the price you want to pay, some pilgrims don't pay anything as there is no set price. Güemes is on fiesta so a lot of the 20-30 year olds head the 1.5km back to Güemes to attend, they are partied out and head home around 3am, us oldies just sleep while we can, trying to forget our aches and pains.Okumaya devam et

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  • GezginCamino Del Norte 2022
    Gün 24

    Güemes to Santander

    11 Ağustos 2022, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We decide to get up earlier this morning as it's going to be hotter today, we aim for 7am to start our walk but don't get away until 7:30am, it is lovely, cool, still and quite on these Spanish country roads, the sounds of birds, roosters, cows and the odd bell accompanys us. The lions share of the 87 pilgrim's staying at the albergue last night were up and gone before the sun rose this morning, so just a few stragglers will overtake us today. Our path today will mainly be on a lovely dirt track over looking the Cantabrian Sea, meandering up and down without any really steep accents or descents. We wind our way along and over headlands with sheer drop offs on one side and fields of corn on the other, it is a truly beautiful walk and I feel very grateful to be here doing this. We eventually come down off the headlands and are walking on the Somo beach it runs for around 4km and we zigzag our way through sun bathers, sand castle builders, dogs, beach gamers and heaps of surfing schools of varying levels. The beach is dotted with hundreds of different coloured and styles of beach umbrellas and it looks so pretty. By the time we come off the beach my ankles and heels are killing me, the downward pressure of the backpack combined with the soft sand has taken its toll, but I recover rather quickly once we get to a bar, take the backpacks off, order a drink and a sandwich and sit for a good half hour, we get a few drops of rain, but thankfully not enough to put our jackets on. We then head to the Los Regina ferry, it costs 4€ and takes about 20 minutes to cross the bay of Santander, we then head to our hotel, book in, shower, grab all the washing and we head to the laundromat, once the washing is done we meet George and go for dinner, we decide to dine at our hotel, it's easy and means we don't have far to go to bed afterwards, we are all tired and looking forward to a good nights sleep.Okumaya devam et

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  • GezginCamino Del Norte 2022
    Gün 25

    Santander to Arce

    12 Ağustos 2022, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We have a great nights sleep in Santander and I am wishing I had of planned rest days in this city, there seems to be lots to see, it’s beautiful and we are quite settled in, but it’s not mean’t to be, so we push on. It takes quite awhile to walk out of town, our walk today is on roads all the way to Arce, some quieter than others. There are few bars on the Camino path, so our choices are very limited today, we stop for our first cafe con leche not too far out of Santander, it’s set in the what feels like an industrial area. We break here for the best part of 20 minutes before continuing on. There are some lovely rural scenes on our walk today but they are pretty few and far between, mostly we are walking through built up areas with few amenities, this has probably been my least favourite walking day so far. When we arrive at Arce, we are fortunate to have booked into a lovely place to stay the night, this beautiful old building could tell a story or two, our room is spacious and very comfortable. We complete the usual afternoon rituals, then head down stairs to the bar for some pre-dinner drinks with George. We sit back and enjoy just chatting while resting our weary bones, and before we know it, it’s time to go in for dinner, all our meals tonight are scrumptious, we go to bed with full bellies after another day on Camino.Okumaya devam et

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  • GezginCamino Del Norte 2022
    Gün 26

    Arce to Santillana del Mar

    13 Ağustos 2022, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We leave Arce at 9:30 am, rain is forecast for today, but hopefully we will get to Santillana del Mar before it starts. We leave our lovely hotel and start our morning walk along a dirt road, locals are out riding their bikes and walking their dogs, we are walking along with a bounce in our step because it’s the start of our walk and our bodies aren’t broken yet! We see a small dog running towards us with his owner running after him, calling out to him and waving her arms. We all get into position and block this wannabe run-a-way, there is a slight stand off as he approaches us, he is a tad wary of our presence, we seize this opportunity to grab his lead and we hold him until his owner arrives. She is huffing and puffing from her early morning sprint, she thanks us and proceeds to tell us that this dog is loco, we are all laughing, we exchange goodbyes and continue on. Today is a beautiful walking day that is cooler in temperature with the added bonus of a darkened sky, our surroundings change from rural settings to industrial towns then back again, we seem to be walking in a circular motion, as though we are taking the long way round. As we near the last few towns, the clouds darken even further and we are unsure if we will make it to our destination before the heavens open and the down pour starts, we put the pedal down and increase our speed, just breaking momentarily for a quick drink every now and again. We make it, just! We have enough time to check in, go to our room and start unpacking before it starts. Santillana del Mar is a village made entirely out of stone, it is so beautiful and a huge tourist destination. We have 3 nights here. Unfortunately we were unable to book accommodation at the same hotel as George, but we will make it work. George’s host has given him some great recommendations for dinner and one of them is an Italian pizza place, it doesn’t open till 8:00 pm, we can’t book, so we make sure we are there a good half hour before it opens. By the time it opens there are about 30 or more people lined up ready to be seated, we are in the first 10 and get a table no problems at all. We don’t mess around ordering and eating our dinner, we know our table is in demand. Our meal and the staff are fabulous, we have a great time, finish our meal and head back to our respective hotels. It’s time to lay these broken bodies down and get some restorative sleep, until tomorrow.Okumaya devam et

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  • GezginCamino Del Norte 2022
    Gün 27

    Santillana del Mar

    14 Ağustos 2022, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We spend 3 nights here in Santillana del Mar, it is so beautiful, busy and there are an absolute ton of restaurants to choose from. We visit the torture museum (very disturbing) and the mythical museum on our first rest day, and had planned to visit the Altimera Museum tomorrow but unfortunately it is closed. So we spend our time just chatting and hanging out, these are our last few days with George, he leaves us tomorrow to go meet up with his family in Lisbon, Portugal, ready to walk from Porto to Santiago de Compostela. So far in Santillana del Mar we have witnessed a concert in the plaza and festivities where the town folk dress up as mythical creatures that inhabit this region or in tradition clothing, they play instruments and parade around the town, causing infectious smiles, laughter, dancing and clapping. Fun times are had by all!Okumaya devam et

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  • GezginCamino Del Norte 2022
    Gün 29

    Santillana del Mar to Cobreces

    16 Ağustos 2022, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Ok, rest days are over it's time to get back on track, but we do this with heavy hearts - today is the day that our walking buddy George leaves us to go start a new and very exciting adventure - walking the Portuguese way with his children, we will miss him dearly, but are super excited for all the wonderful memories he gets to make with his family. We will have to step up our game though, George was the one who always got us the good table at the bars and ordered our drinks, he also kept us on the right path - leading our group of 3 up and down hills, through and around towns and meandering along headlands and coastal pathways, this is not always easy to do with two blondes in tow. Thank you for looking after us so well George, we appreciate everything you did for us and you will be greatly missed. We get ready and head up to George's accommodation, we wait with him until his taxi arrives before heading off on our walk for the day. The taxi arrives, we say our goodbyes, (we will next see George on the 2nd of September, the day after he and his family are scheduled to get into Santiago de Compostela). George goes in one direction and we soon branch off in another. On the outskirts of Santillana del Mar, we reach the campground which has a small supermarket attached to it, we decide to grab a ready made ceaser salad for our lunch today, then we keep going, luckily, George has warned me about the path going straight ahead and not to follow the bend in the road, as it will lead us the wrong way, and, at the last minute I notice the thin path running along side the campground, your natural instinct is to follow the bend in the road. It is a beautiful day today and we only have about 15 km to walk, this is our ideal distance - we can sleep in, and still get to our destination in a timely manner and our bodies are just starting to ache. Our walk today is mainly along quite country roads either asphalt or dirt, the countryside is very green, with wildflowers scattered through pastureland and along the roadside. We come into a town around the 7 km mark that has a lovely park with seating and decide this will be our lunch spot for today, it has a little stream running along side it and there are a few ducks here that seem to call this place home, we take our backpacks off and relax, eating our lunch for the next half hour or so. We feel recharged after our salad, so we pop on our backpacks and head off again, our next stop will be a bench out the front of a church, unfortunately most of the churches are locked on this Camino path, you can still utilise the outside areas that often have seating, shade and water, but you can’t go in to pray, it’s such a shame, every now and then you will fluke it though. We get to the outskirts of Cobreces and we see the banners hanging across the streets, we hear the music and see the bandannas around the necks of women and men - fiesta in Cobreces tonight! The sky has darkened and you can smell the rain in the air, I have everything crossed that we get to our accommodation before the downpour, and luckily for us the first drops hit as we are turning into the driveway of our home for the night, we have the perfect room that has a porch out the front that protects us from the rain, it is lovely sitting here, shoes off, with a glass of wine in hand, hearing and watching the rain, but not getting soaked. It’s the little things….Okumaya devam et

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  • GezginCamino Del Norte 2022
    Gün 30

    Cobreces to Comillas

    17 Ağustos 2022, Ispanya ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    We wake up this morning after a lovely nights sleep, listening to the heavy rain on the roof, we are both hoping and praying that this rain eases by the time we are ready to leave. We slowly get ready, we don’t have a big walking day ahead, so there is no need to rush, it may very well be a wet one. We leave the warmth, dryness and comfort of our room with the intention of getting a coffee around 2 Km mark up the hill - apparently there is a bar that opens at 8:30 am, so we should be fine….Wrong! No one mentioned that is was off the Camino trail, because we didn’t pass or see it. It has rained all day today, the tracks are muddy under foot and it’s slow going. We finally find coffee 1 hour into our walk, it’s so nice to get the backpack and rain coat off, sit down and take a break from the rain with a piping hot cuppa. We stretch this out as long as possible before getting back on trail. A few pilgrims have passed us this morning and although it’s wet, everyone is happy, the scenery if beautiful - it still amazes me just how much difference a little rain can make, everything looks so vibrant, crisp and clean. We finally make it to the outskirts of Comillas, our accommodation it on this side of town and just a little way off the Camino path. We find it, book in, shower and head to the restaurant for some well earned lunch. We settle in here for the rest of the afternoon enjoying the warmth and dryness that inside provides….Okumaya devam et

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  • GezginCamino Del Norte 2022
    Gün 31

    Camillas to San Vicente de la Barquera

    18 Ağustos 2022, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We sleep in this morning, it's very easy to do after the rainy night and ultra comfy beds. We go for breakfast at 9:30 am then finish packing up and check out at 10:00 am. It starts off a little overcast but very soon turns into a warm sunny day. We stayed on the fringe of Comillas last night and were too tired to go down into the town, this is our daily struggle - we are visiting all these beautiful seaside towns, steeped in history with so many interesting buildings and stories to tell, and we are always too sore to be on our feet to go and explore, we get to our accommodation, shower and just want to put our feet up to stop them throbbing. Anyway as we walk through Comillas we enjoy the beauty, vibe and historical buildings we spy. Once on the outskirts, we are on a walking path that will take us to San Vicente de la Barquera, this path winds its way along the coastline, meandering inland from time to time, the views of the Cantabrian Sea, beaches, and coastal farmlands are spectacular, although we are ascending and descending all day, we can't help but smile, it's such a good day to be walking, I feel extremely grateful and fortunate to be on the trail. We stay at a hospedria 2km out of San Vicente de la Barquera, luckily we had stocked up at the supermarket as we passed through the outskirts of San Vicente de la Barquera, the climb up to our accommodation was hot and harsh, the strong wind that had accompanied us all along the headlands was now nowhere to be found. So when they told us that there was no dinner here you have to head back into the town, we were extremely happy that we had lugged all our salad, bread, wine and water up the hill. We would feast in our room tonight. I don't think these legs can do another 4 km today, they are feeling very old and tired...Okumaya devam et

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  • GezginCamino Del Norte 2022
    Gün 32

    San Vicente de la Barquera to Pechon

    19 Ağustos 2022, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Blue skies for days is what we see as we open the shutters to reveal the day. We leave this hospederia at 10 am, we have a smile on our faces and a spring in our step. The countryside is extra beautiful today and the ‘Picos de Europa’ in the background is simply stunning (the photos just don't do it justice and they look like they are a million miles away, but in reality this isn't so). Not long into our walk, we are overtaken by a group of lovely young pilgrims, they pass us by with a “Buen Camino!”, they will be the only pilgrims we will see today. Our walk is on asphalt roads all the way. We pass through a few small villages and it's surprising how many homes we have come across on our northern walk that are under construction, the cement framework is complete but that's it. This day is heating up and we come to a bar right on the side of a busy main road and decide it's time for a drink, all the chairs in the shade are taken, so sunshine it is, it's still good to get off these feet. We enjoy our drinks and plot out our last section of today's walk (we are going off Camino as we couldn't get any accommodation on the trail). This means walking on a road where drivers may not be used to keeping an eye out for pesky pilgrims! To start with we cross over a bridge, and as we do so we watch some stand-up paddleboarders paddling up a very muddy-looking river. We then cross over a busy road and are now on a narrow, winding coast road that will lead to a beach and campground. Oh, this is going to be fun (2.5 km of holding your breath and hoping the next car isn't going to be the one to take you out). Only 1 person yells at us, I don't understand what she says, but I am pretty confident it's something not very nice. Well we make it to a lookout, take some pretty pictures then continue on, we now have a walking track on the side of the road, that runs the rest of the way to Pechon. We get into town, lunch is finished, the supermarket has closed for siesta. We settle into some comfy seats at the bar and we order some tapas consisting of small bite-size bread with regional cheese, walnuts and honey, they are yummy, we pair these with a lovely bottle of Rioja, this combo ties us over until we cook dinner tonight. Once siesta is over, we hit the supermarket and get ingredients to make spaghetti carbonara, we both miss and look forward to a home-cooked meal, and this goes down a treat, we go to bed with full bellies in a red wine haze...Okumaya devam et

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