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Camino
  • Elizabeth Cuddy

Camino

A 27-day adventure by Elizabeth Read more
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  • Trip start
    August 29, 2017
    Elizabeth CuddyCaminoElizabeth Cuddy

    At the airport

    August 29, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    I am happy that my bag weighed 7.4 kgs. I wish it was 10% of my bodyweight.
    I am excited and a little nervous, and feeling very grateful to be heading off on this three week wander in Spain. Camino del Norte awaits.Read more

  • Elizabeth CuddyCaminoElizabeth Cuddy

    Walkabout

    August 30, 2017 in France ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Observations from my wanderings today:
    Mostly white people, mostly French. White clothes seem to be a thing, lace is popular.
    Basque cakes are lovely, basque strawberries from the market were superb.
    There are no fast food, Indian, falafel or Chinese takeaways. Did not see an Irish bar. No seagulls, few pigeons, loads of dogs and like Paris, loads of dog crap on the ground.
    I wish I could speak even a little French.
    I had two swims. The water is clear and warm. The sand is very coarse. I did not go into a restaurant, only a coffee shop.    Read more

  • Elizabeth CuddyCaminoElizabeth Cuddy

    Bayonne

    August 31, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Short bus trip to be a tourist in this lovely city and also to get my Camino passport stamped.
    Big day. I ate in a restaurant, alone, which was a huge hurdle for me to get over. I had a glass of wine to celebrate. There was some kind of chop on the plate. I took a few bites but that was it. It was too salty and the child at the table beside me was eating an essentially raw hamburger. Meat on a plate, no bun no nothing, just blood and a few chips. I had noticed rather rare meat on other plates as I wandered around.
    Medieval town, Basque culture and flags and language. Quite lovely.    Read more

  • Elizabeth CuddyCaminoElizabeth Cuddy

    Espana . Me Gusta.

    September 1, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    I rook the train from Biarritz to Hendaye, the last town in France, then I crosses the bridge into Spain. I wandered about in Irun trying to look like I knew where I was going. Then I decided I may be going the wrong way cause a fella with a backpack passes me. About face and follow him! I got my bearings bitten hung about the town as I was too early for the hostel.
    I feel much better here in Spain because I can communicate.
    Dinner was organic vegan, the only option. I sat with 5 German women and that was not a light and lively affair. Staid would be more the word. Persistent rain and cool temp. I am glad I am here. Following through on my wish, I am happy about that.
    Feet appreciate the new shoes purchased. I did manage to cut one toenail too far back, so that is irritating, literally and figuratively.    Read more

  • Elizabeth CuddyCaminoElizabeth Cuddy

    Walk to San Sebastián.

    September 2, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    I got up at 6 and left the hostel at 7.05. It was not raining and quite cool. I felt confident enough though lots of "what ifs" went through my mind last night.
    Most of the town was walking up the first hill to go to a mass in the Santuario . From there I briefly chatted with a young Polish man who had walked from Poland, 90 days,, and counting.
    We took the advice of two old men, to follow the left arrow, and then I got off track. I was not worried, at first, as I headed for the water., seeing that it is a coastal walk, I deduced. Bad choice, down, down and down the trail I went,.oops, big cliff, so up, up, up I went. Phew, then I was walking along a road and a man pulled over and said what are you doing walking here. Lost says I, lost says he. He set me on the path, which was just above the road, and it turned out I was back on track after an extra 2 hours of up and down a pretty long and rather steep hill. The walking sticks in the garage in Lincoln would be handy. . I felt much better seeing yellow arrows, let me tell you., and I kept tellinh myself that too, as I got a bit stressed when I was off track. I told myself to remember that they say the Camino takes care and provides. I am so glad to be able to talk, and ask for directions in Spanish. .
    The cliff walk was very scenic but when I got to the part where there was cables in the rocks to hold on too cause it was steep, I had a meltdown. I got stuck on grandfather mountain in SC many years ago, relating to a steep rock and cable. At that time I was terrified, so this time I was too. I did not appreciate the beauty of that part. I just put one foot in front of the other and went between fear, anger and telling.myself to just do it. So I did, and then had a tortilla and a coffee and a magnum. Ice cream bar in the little harbor. Rejuvenated and feeling fresh again, even though I had been walking for 6 hours, I set off for San Sebastián. I thought it was really far. I asked a walker who was at a bench on the prom if this was indeed San Sebastián. "Oui" he responded and then spoke at length to me in French. Hmm, says I, this is Spain now, so I am not as bothered that I do not understand. He had no English so we did a couple of Japanese type bows and I hit the beach. I was so happy to know I had a room booked, as that is the next leap of faith for me, to just walk and get a room when I am tired.
    After all that, going in to a bar full of people, ordering pinxtos and vino tinto was a piece of cake.
    .    Read more

  • Elizabeth CuddyCaminoElizabeth Cuddy
    1

    Tourist day

    September 3, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Qthings I learned in San Sebastián today, which may be coloured rosy by warm sunshine and a magnificent setting :
    A large sugar raised bun partially sliced and filled with 3 inches of cream, along with "un cafe con leche" is a perfectly acceptable way to start the day.
    Going to the beach, with just a towel, no coolers, no
    beach equipment, no chairs etc seems the best and easiest way to go. You don't even need your bikini top,, no matter your age. (,however, I think, not good for the over 30 and up)
    People queue up to bet on boat races, coastal town against each other.
    Each town brings their little band, they March about.
    The dress is alive and well, across all generations, well not the teen girls. Their arse cheeks hang out of mini cut off shorts. .
    When you want to. "dar un paseo", on the promenade and the Nana or Grandpa can't walk then they go in a wheelchair.
    Cell phones are not generally visible.
    People talk to each other.
    It is not dark until 8.35 so you can go for a swim at what is called one of the best urban beaches.
    Middle school boys half bury a yoga ball in the sand, run and bounce off it and somersault or flip,. (, good idea).
    College students have "cidra", pouring contests. They hold bottle high, glass low, then pour and hope it hits the target. Hence the streets are wet and sticky as the aim gets worse after each bottle.
    If you go to two pinxtos bars and have two glasses of wine, 3 euro each, in quick succession, then you are glad there is a cathedral on the, same street as your hotel, so you can find it. (, 2glasses is max for me).
    People here have seem to enjoy the day, family is important.
    The coffee is good.
    The wine is cheap.
    Cidra tastes awful, but it is really cheap.
    I really like this city.
    Why does no one carve, paint or sculpt a pigeon?    Read more

  • Elizabeth CuddyCaminoElizabeth Cuddy

    Walkingn to Getaria, Gipuzkoa in Basque.

    September 4, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Left San Sebastián at sunrise and enjoyed a beautiful walk along the coast to a small village called Getaria. Not unlike the west coast of Ireland, landscape wise. However, grapevines and sheep with bells and medieval villages are not like Ireland.
    I walked with a rather eccentric English man, well being English is an impediment in and off itself. However he is a gardener so we had a shared interest. He has never driven, has no cell phone and has no pets. I did not ask any personal questions except for his name after about an hour.
    I am a dab hand at going into bars and ordering pinxtos and tonight I drank Txacoli, which is a local wine. There are lots of vineyards here. It cost 1.90 euros a glass, so under $1.85. Tasted good too. Cidra is only 90 cent but that "should be put back in the horse", as my Dad used to say.
    A swim before dinner then off to my bunk bed, one of 40 in a full mixed dorm. 12 euro a night, without sheets. Thank goodness cousin Nuala gave me sleeping bag and liner.
    It was a really "Buenos Camino" today.
    I can not decipher the Basque language but everyone speaks Spanish also.    Read more

  • Elizabeth CuddyCaminoElizabeth Cuddy

    Easy walking day to Deba

    September 5, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    I challenged myself last night and slept in a top bunk. I was always afraid I would fall out. Luckily that was an unwarranted fear but I should have practiced getting out as I worried about putting my foot on the head of the elderly(, moreso than me even) man who was in the bottom bunk.
    I eventually just threw caution to the wind and managed to get off the bed and onto the floor without incident.
    I set out at 7, just as it was beginning to get bright. I had put my backpack outside to pack up so as not to wake anyone. I went inside to check my space and when I went back out eccentric English bloke was sitting beside my bag looking to me like a bloody stray dog. I thought this was your pack says he. Isaid 'goodbye', and headed out.
    The walk was beautiful, up and down hills, through woods and past farms and grapevines. I continue to pick and eat blackberries, which are mostly hard and sour. I wonder how many days I will do that before I learn to pass them by.
    The peaches here are big and sweet and juicy and best of all, cheap.
    I got to the hostel at 1.00 pm. 5 euro for the bunk. It is in the train station, second floor. I wonder how many trains will zip past at night.
    I had the menu del Dia for lunch, 11. 50 euro. Soup fresh salmon, flan and a bottle of wine. A bottle full, for just me! I maxed out at 2.5 glasses. I was taken aback that the salmon was on the bone. I immediately thought of Kathleen McElhinney, my friend in school in Glasgow
    Her dad chocked on a fishbone and died. I remember them carrying his coffin out of the flat and down to the church. I thought to myself ', I can eat that fish I might die like he did.' Well I didn't fall out of the bunk or choke on the fish. Big day all around. A swim, and then a walk about town, which took 5 mins. Now to find a bar to watch some football and eat some pinchos before bunk in in. Bottom this time.    Read more

  • Elizabeth CuddyCaminoElizabeth Cuddy
    1

    Gernika

    September 7, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Yesterday was a slog day. Rain all day and lots of up and down. Good though, complete silence at some points, really nice. Last night's lodging was a bottom bunk in an old church, donation. I ate dinner with a young woman from Malaysia who grew up in Australia but is studying her masters in Lucerne. We each got a bottle of wine with our dinner, and I beat my record for consumption as we chatted.

    It is still really crowded and we had to sit on the street and wait for the Alberque to open in order to secure a bed. Lots and lots of people walking from all over the place. I have not made any reservations, leaving it to chance which is a big step out of my comfort zone. I walk alone but chat at the end of the day. I try to only speak Spanish, and I talk to townspeople and shop keepers.
    Time really has stood still in some villages. It is so nice. I donot know why those are big bells are around the necks of , cows, sheep and goats, but it is a lovely background sound.
    I went to the peace museum here today, because this village was obliterated by German bombers, at Francois request as he was taking over Spain and the Germans wanted to practice dropping bombs.
    That is why Picasso painted the big mural ", Gernika,"or" Guernica " in Spanish. It is in the museum in Madrid.

    I ate a fresh fig I picked from a tree. A French cyclist took one first and then between French Spanish and English and gestures, for sweet, soft etc. I was able to learn what it was. I also resumed the sour blackberry picking activity which was interrupted by the heavy rain yesterday.
    On to Bilbao tomorrow. I may be a tourist there for a day or two, Gugginheim (sp?) museum and whatever else is on offer.
    I like walking.    Read more

  • Elizabeth CuddyCaminoElizabeth Cuddy

    Bilbao

    September 8, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today was long, well my choice for it to be long. There was a lot of road side walking so that is not quaint.
    The best part of today was talking to the locals. On my way out of Gernika today I started a conversation with a basque man sitting on a bench. Well he was reading his paper and I interrupted that. It transpired that he was 92 and had lived through the bombing. He was more like a 70 year old. I had a really nice conversation with him.
    Along the way I bought a banana off a lady who had a table of wares at the end of her driveway. She insisted that I eat a fresh fig for energy. It was lovely and I picked some more further along the way. Another old lady I cornered in her garden, offered to cook some of the "calabasa" for me if I came back in 12 days days when she harvested it. Then on my way into Bilbao, at the end of my walk, with the legs crying for mercy, another old man said "hey you, are you with him?" motioning to a walker ahead of me. No, says I, I am walking Sola. " Better off" he said!
    So while the walk was lovely for stages, the chats with the older folks was the best.
    Other things I have noted:
    Lots of dogs, chained to the house appear Savage. I say "hello doggie" and they growl and or lurch, barking viciously.
    Lots and lots of feral cats.
    Wild mint along the roads.
    Calabasas grow profusely, even up trees. (it is a squash type plant)
    The reason only a few of us walkers were the only ones on the beach a few stops ago, was because there was jellyfish in the water. I thought it felt like something stinging, but I saw nothing. I have big welts on, where else but, my feet and ankles. Not a bother when I walk, thank goodness.
    Thee is supposed to be a strike in the Spanish airports on the day I fly back to Dublin. That should be memorable.
    .    Read more

  • Elizabeth CuddyCaminoElizabeth Cuddy

    Guggenheim etc

    September 9, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Rainy and cool so a good day for a bit of a rest and a walk about in Bilbao. It is nice. The museum is extra ordinary to look at but most of the modern art inside is either rubbish or I don't appreciate it. I am glad I went in, I even had to pay admission.
    I had more pinxtos and tzcoli for lunch. It is like a holiday every day here. Put something on a lump of bread, put a toothpick in it and have a few with wine. Easy and really delicious. 7.50 euro for three, with wine, makes it affordable. I go to the bar with confidence now. Awakened some dormant gene or other.
    I got on the tourist bus and got the layout of the city. A lot of hills and stairs. It is not so easy to have a wee chat with people as they bustle about or in today's case walk bent over in the driving rain. With a day to look around but I think San Sebastián has the edge. Hostels are great value and this one in Bilbao is rather chic, but the inhabitants still snore and have smelly feet.    Read more

  • Elizabeth CuddyCaminoElizabeth Cuddy

    Castro Urdinalesand bust.

    September 11, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Yesterday was a tough one. I walked way more than I thought I was going to. Ten more kms than I wanted to and my feet were not happy.
    I left Bilbao after a sleepless night in the hostel owing to fellas coming in to set up at 11.30pm then going out on the town to return at 5.30 am. Anyway, walking out of Bilbao on a quiet Sunday morning was good. Not so nice along the river, but it is bring revitalized. The next part of the walk was lovely. Country life like it had been for centuries. It looked like people were at their alojamientos, harvesting and grilling the veg.
    I thought at 26 kms or so, I would stop, but there was no place. A passing walker told me 10 km more and that was not what I wanted to hear. I put on my flip flops, with socks Woonsocket style, and kept going. I can do this saysI, it is only like two laps in Lincoln Woods. Well, no, because it was a lot of big hills on a busy road, so Says I to myself "look you, it is OK to stop" and since it was 4 pm and I started at 7.15am I did stop! I put on a few band aids, put the shoes back on and hobbled along. I was not doing any positive self talk, that is for sure.
    Then..
    . Along comes Pablo! A recently retired Basque French fella who spoke French, Euaskadi and Spanish and who also had sore feet and just wanted to get to the town. So we went hobbling along together, he was charming company and made the last 5 km go by fast. We consulted our guide books on a bench on the lovely promenade when we got there and he made the phone call so we could go straight to a place and not have to roam around looking for somewhere .
    It was heaven to have my own room and shower and no snoring or smelly feet to deal with.
    Pablo and I went out for Pinxtos. We talked kids and work and football. He played on a lower division in France and he said it was the first time in his life that he had a conversation with a woman about the physical attributes of football players. Of course CR7 was top of the list, well my list. He was very interesting andy Spanish was flowing freely. It was such a lovely end to what was an up and down day, both physically and mentally.
    Thee is something about this Camino. You read about it and I am sure it is different for everyone. The Spanish people are so ready to help out and also wish you well. The people who are walking are friendly and interesting.. Maybe every one's defenses are down. It is hard to not get involved when there are 14 of you in bunk beds in a small room, sharing food and one bathroom. Great as long as I can escape to my own room after 5 or 6 nights of it!
    I fed up being ignored, despite my cooing and clicking and psh, psh kitty, horses and sheep and cows and goats and sheep, with really long legs, just keep on eating. But victory this after noon., "here chicken, here chicken" I plead from the gate, and it came over!! Made my day.    Read more

  • Elizabeth CuddyCaminoElizabeth Cuddy

    Sontonio

    September 12, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    In a hosteland there is a man from Leeds talking to me even though I have turned away from him. He is nuts. The walk today was glorious, fantastic scenery. I got off the trail a few times but elderly men are friendly and helpful, so they are my go to all the time.
    This qtown is famous for anchovies, it smell like it. There are shops that sell only anchovies, in many forms. Fiesta going on, I watched what appeared to be an intense game of bols. I could not figure that out at all, but people who were watching were riveted.    Read more

  • Elizabeth CuddyCaminoElizabeth Cuddy

    Sontonio, SANTANDER, Santilla del. Mar

    September 15, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    This is a beautiful lille place. No words to aptly describe a medieval village. It was enchanting to arrive here yesterday evening after my second day of 40 km walks. I don't set out everyday with a plan, I just follow the arrows. However that was a bit of a wobbly plan the day before when I apparently followed the less well marked trail along the coast.
    I left Sontonio to the smell of fish offal being pureed into pet food. There were large vrates of fish stacked up along the pier, well fish bit really, and when I asked man what it was for he showed me the big grinder and explained the process. I was very appreciative of the information, but blimey, the smell.
    Anyway I walked briefly with an English woman who had rented her house out and was walking all about the world. She had me in hysterics telling me about using the bathroom in various hostels etc, and how you just let go of your inhibitions. Then she said ",I have to wee," she dropped her pack and her shorts and proceeded to do so! I walked on.
    The day was long, hot and magnificent. However a was tired and hungry and was distracted from that buy the scenery. Cliffs, huge beaches and big waves. However there were no other walkers about and I was hoping for a "fletcha amarilla " (,yellow arrow) to show me the way when out of the blue on a cliff above a beach full of bronzed naked bodies I came upon an ice cream truck!!, I talked to myself as I got closer, in case it was a mirage, but through theagic of the Camino it was real. I got ice cream, direction, energy and joy beyond compare as I continued on my way. A boat trip across the bay, in the evening sun, and with directions from my favorite tour guides, senior men, I got to the hostel after 10 hours of walking. To end it all I was the last one to check in so I had a room to myself, with a bathroom and coffee and bread for breakfast.    Read more

  • Elizabeth CuddyCaminoElizabeth Cuddy

    San Vincente de la barquera

    September 16, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    And it ends here for now.
    Yesterday, once again I walked far. The planned stop had no beds left. I could have got a hotel or hostel but I wanted my last night to be with other walkers.
    I met up with two Polish grandmother's, my age as we walked into the town we hoped to sleep in. One had a little English and the other backhanded my arm and said, ", food, tired, you ask".
    She was great and I walked the extra 7 km with them to the next available bed. We were tired at the point and hungry too. That was the plan to go right to the next available bed, , but we got off track, or rather we stayed on the track, which was winding and long, instead of the more direct, shoulder of the road route. . The rain was relentless and the wind was harsh. They both hand on ponchos which flapped and made noise like sails. I was singing, yes, singing, to try to lighten the mood. One of them was exhausted, I could not pronounce even an approximation of her name. When she was just about on her last footstep, and after many backhands from Ana, pointing to houses... "you go there, ask where albergue", as she points to a house with rabid, foaming at the mouth dogs, barking, growling and hitting the end of their chains trying to get at us.
    I said "no, we walk, will find bed"
    Then a double rainbow came out, and Ana blocked a cars exit from their driveway, motioned to driver to the driver to put down window, backhanded me "you ask where Albergue"
    I did, she gave us a lift. Less than a 2 minute drive, but it felt like heaven.
    Got a bed, dinner and breakfast this morning. Ana and Bodu.....? were great company. It was a huge challenge for the last few kms in the wind driven rain. We drank wine and ate dinner together and slept well.
    The Camino is a very personal journey, shared with so many others. No words to describe what it means. I will be back    Read more

  • Elizabeth CuddyCaminoElizabeth Cuddy

    Santander

    September 18, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    I got to know this place well, waiting for my plane to go back to Dublin. Ryanair offered no recompense, and after going to the airport, as directed by an email, the girl there said Dublin told them to offer nothing, just tell customers to save receipts, to submit later. Really typical of Ryanair, but outrageous all the same.
    I have done a grand walking tour all around the city. It is quite small, and strolled the beaches, there are 3 right in town.
    It has been cool and wet most of the time. I have wine at lunch and dinner and croissant and coffee at breakfast, so there is no harm in being here, that is for sure.
    I went to the cathedral today, there was a service going on, nuns singing from up in the rafters. Very traditional and quite an experience. Of course at night families come out for walks, dressed up and looking very posh. I am enthralled with the children and their very long held traditional dress style. It is beautiful. The family, and socialising are important here in Spain. It is very nice to see people out walking of an evening.
    There is a non stop parade of dogs too. Small dogs. Ugly small dogs. Vicious, ugly, small dogs. Keeps me entertained as they bark at each other as they pass by, embarrassing the owner. Who needs telly with all this going on.    Read more

  • Elizabeth CuddyCaminoElizabeth Cuddy

    Last day in Spain

    September 19, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    22 days in one of my, well actually, my favourite place. It has been a great visit for me. I like it here.
    My last day was well ended with a conversation with my favorite group of Spanish people, old men.
    I was wandering in the bus station in Santander, waiting for my bus. Up toddles an old man, smaller than me. He was well turned out, tie, cardigan, jacket, hat as the people seem to take pride in their appearance. Here was me in my ratty hiking gear and backpack. .. Anyway, "que buscas " he asks, and from there I got to spend the last 20 minutes in Santander chatting with him. He told me it was "una ricesa" to work with children. He also asked "what kind of person does that? When talking about the police in America shooting people . I wonder what the answer to that question is?
    So back to Dublin I go with fond memories and plans to return.
    Fue un buen viaje.    Read more

  • Elizabeth CuddyCaminoElizabeth Cuddy

    Back in Dublin.

    September 20, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Back art the flat, uneventful flight.
    Kevin and Chelsea are here as they start their own European wander. We wandered in the rain. Ate chips and ice cream, threw raw fish to the seals in Howth and drank Guinness in pub. That takes care of Dublin.
    I have had the National pfloufhinf championships on my list for years but I have not been able to be here in Mid September. The thrill of the ploughing was calling me.
    So here I am this year and it has been washed out by heavy rain., so it is still on the list.    Read more

  • Elizabeth CuddyCaminoElizabeth Cuddy

    Sligo

    September 23, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Quick weekend visit with Kevin and Chelsea. Beautiful day yesterday, Walked on the beach, and went to a free not Irish music concert at the theater. It was culture night in Ireland so there was a lot of things on offer. . A wander about town today, a coastal drive, then back to Dublin
    I read a yesterday that 39 percent of the people in Donegal are immigrants. 934 of them.
    Ireland is small.
    The sun has been out for 3 days, but there is a chill in the air. First day of autumn yesterday and my last day of work was June 21, so it has been a real solstice to solstice summer holiday this year.    Read more

  • Elizabeth CuddyCaminoElizabeth Cuddy

    Rossknowlagh

    September 24, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    We stayed in a old BnB in shabby Bundoran. The decor was typical of an old place, huge flowery wallpaper in three shades of lilac, with a clashing paisley pattern duvet and some diamente throw pillows. The owners were delightful and sat and chatted with us at breakfast. She is an expert knitter and said that is what gets her through the long winters.
    It was overcast but not windy. K&C rented surf boards and I walked the long empty beach. The sun came out, it was really lovely. We drove to Donegal, had a scone and tea and headed back to Dublin by a different route..
    It gets dark earlier each day and it takes longer to get light in the morning. The sun is getting lower in the sky. We did get to see it all day today, what a bonus.    Read more

    Trip end
    September 24, 2017
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