• Day 22: Benevento to Buonalbergo

    April 17 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    It was a day! The Way was long (27.36 km, total ascent: 891 m, total descent: 491 m), the longest walking I've done for a while. It was warm and the first bench I saw, to take a rest, was just over 1 km out of Buonalbergo! The countryside was pretty, but unremarkable. I had a group of five small dogs run at me (I was able to dispatch them fairly quickly), which then prompted two big dogs to (with the owner right there. If I have any supernatural powers at all that man has now been cursed) have a serious go at me for about 300 m - it was a nightmare! I'd just come off a really steep climb and was still climbing, I was hot, exhausted, and so angry. Honestly, it broke my spirit. The words "I'm done" came out of my mouth. However, after 18 km of sealed road, and all other free range dogs mostly ignoring me, the Way changed to what I'm calling tractor trails and one cow path, that bought some mud, a lovely cool breeze, a snake sighting, my first creek crossing, and, eventually, did bring a smile to my face. I listened to some music, had a bit of a sob and then began to feel better. Of course, the free range dogs encounters weren't over; as I came into Buonalbergo, a big black dog tried to circle me and then escorted me into town, heralding my presence to all the other dogs: WTF! By that stage, I was so over it, I gave up and let him do as he pleased. Thankfully, he did give up as climbed the last 50 m or so to the church. I'm beginning to think I'm not up for this anymore.Read more