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Via di Francesco

June - July 2024
  • Carmel Carlsen
Triggered by some insirational pilgrims, a chance meeting in Siena with a lovely couple from Townsville, a great admiration for Saint Francis, and an unexpected affinity with the Tau; I decided to walk the Way of Saint Francis, from Rome to Assisi. Read more
  • Carmel Carlsen

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  • Qatar Qatar
  • France France
  • Italy Italy
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  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia di Francesco
    3
    1211Sensati3Sensati4Sensati2222In the Franciscan Convent24The path is closed!I could have walked across here, but the path was closed

    Day 11: Ferentillo to Spoleto

    June 24, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today, I moved from the Valnerina Valley to the Spoletan Valley. That meant crossing the Apennine mountains and, as the VdF shows me every day so far; it was wonderful walking, not easy, but a real joy to move through. The first 10 km continued along the Greenway del Nera and then the rest of the walk (29.28 km) was a big climb (from 300m to 950m) up the mountains, followed by a visit to a Franciscan Convent (The Sanctuary of Saint Francis) and then a descent into Spoleto. The big surprise came as I was about to enter Spoleto; the track was closed (literally, a big, high boarded fence I could not climb, and the temporary route totally bypasses the town! I had to reroute a way into town, and I still have to work out the path I'll be taking tomorrow! What a day - I'm exhausted, but sipping an Aperol spritz, which is putting a glow on everything. My Camino magic today was a place called Sensati - it was a rest area, almost at the top of the mountain, that has been made to delight - and it does. Finally, I got rained upon three times; the last time, I broke out the Great Pumpkin when I heard thunder, but I didn't really need it.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia di Francesco
    The city walls at Spoleto
    2Basilica Saint Ponziano2Basilica Saint Salvatore (photo taken through glass)2Eggi22Saint Caterina d'Alessandria2Saint Michael Arch Angel church at Eggi4Egging from above46The view from my window tonight

    Day 12: Spoleto to Poreta

    June 25, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    I bit the bullet and decided to stick with the path for which I have a digital map. If I put all my trust in the signs on the "temporary" track, what happens if they run out and if I miss one? Where on earth, literally, would I end up? I was lucky enough to see the two Italian pilgrims I saw on Day 2 at breakfast this morning, and, even better, I saw them on the Way three times today - they have confirmed for me that I made the right choice. Anyway, it was a shorter walk today (18.63 km), so I took my time and enjoyed the walk and the scenery. There was quite a bit of ups and downs, so I got some really good views of the valley and the surrounding mountains. Tonight, I'm staying in a B&B in an old Villa, and it is lovely.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia di Francesco
    2In the church at Lenano
    2Eremo Francescano2Trevi112Saint John's Church at Trevi2Convento Francescano San MartinoTorre Villa Fabri2Saint Emiliano, the DuomoSaint Emiliano2The church of Saint Francis museum

    Day 13: Poreta to Trevi

    June 26, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Today, through sheer luck of being in the right place at the right time, I was able to visit the Eremo Francescano or the Franciscan Hermitage of Campello. It is a convent (established in 1926), of just four Sisters (now), on the side of a mountain where, originally hermits, then Franciscan Friers and, so strong oral tradition maintains, Saint Francis himself spent time in the caves there. If you ring their bell, they will welcome you in to show you around and tell you everything you want to know about the place: I actually stood in the caves (with a bat)! It was an experience that touched my heart. No photos, I'm afraid - they ask you not to share the ones you take. The walk was short today (14.51 km), so I arrived in Trevi, a really beautiful medieval town, early. This allowed me to take a really good look around and visit the Church of Saint Francis museum. It has been a very special day and one I will hold within me.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia di Francesco
    8Sunset from Trevi
    6Convento San Francescano San Martino2Morning light in Trevi2The sun coming up over Convento San Francescano8Trevi as I was leaving2222The Cathedral at Feliciano23Confessional in San Giacomo Church in Feliciano2Approaching Spello

    Day 14: Trevi to Spello

    June 27, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    I left before 6:30 a.m. to beat the heat. What I love most about Italy - you can almost always get a coffee early in the morning, and every single tomato you eat tastes delicious and exactly like a tomato should. It wasn't a long walk (21.75 km), and I am very glad that I got to Spello before 2 p.m. Trevi, with the sun shining on it, looked really beautiful as I was leaving, as did the valley (I even saw a hot air balloon in the distance). Today's walk was mostly along sealed surfaces and so different from what I have become used to. On the positive side, it was almost all along the flat - which makes for quicker walking. Today's highlight was being able to congratulate Bernadette and Marian, along with Alex, as they reached Saint Peter's Square - what a thrill. Oh, and I've seen two squirrels in the last two days!Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia di Francesco
    Saint Andrea church, Spello
    4Saint Anna (Tega) church, Spello2Saint Lorenzo Martrie church, Spello2The entrance gates to AssisiBasilica Saint Clare (Santa Chiara)Basilica di San Francesco (superior)Basilica di San Francesco (inferior)6With a wooden craved statue of Saint Francis

    Day 15: Spello to Assisi

    June 28, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    My step was light, and my heart full of joy as I started the walk today (14.84 km). I dawdled in Spello until 9 a.m. and slowly made my way to Assisi in the heat. I arrived at the city limits just before midday and was greeted by the church bells from all around as I walked in - what a treat. The Cathedral and the tomb of Saint Francis are mind-boggling, but they ask that you don't take photos inside and I've respected that. I collected my testimonium right on 3 p.m. and was lucky enough to share the experience with the two Italian pilgrims whom I've seen off and on along the Way. I've made the decision not to continue onto La Verna as I don't feel up to it physically in this heat, and my body is protesting more and more every day. This pilgrimage has been very special for me, I am grateful to have made it this far, and I'm so glad that I did. I'll chill here (pardon the pun) for a few days and then decide what to do next.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia di Francesco
    Street artIn the town square2The town squareBasilica di Santa Maria degli AngeliIn Saint Peter's Church2Basilica Saint Clare8Basilica of Saint Francis (upper and lower)22Inside the Saint Francis Basilica complexSaint Clare's BasilicaSaint Rufino cathedral2La Rocca Maggiore1

    Assisi to Florence

    July 6, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    I've spent the last eight days in Assisi. It's a wonderful place that gave me the time I needed to decompress, recentre, and rejuvenate from my walking. Assisi is a genuinely spiritual hub and a town that has been lovingly restored. I delighted in the pink stone that can be found in the roads and buildings - it looks beautiful in the sun. Also, it's a real pleasure to see so many nuns and friers all over the place. There are four saint tombs there: Saint Rufino (his remains are now in Rome), Saint Francis, Saint Clare, and the most recently cannonised saint, Carlo Acutis. I have to be honest, I find all the bodies and remains in so many of the churches I've seen in Italy a little confronting. But, the body of a young man in jeans was the most difficult to accept. I'm now in Florence for the next few days and I will be playing tourist.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia di Francesco
    8132226On the way to Paris, after Turin

    Florence to Paris

    July 12, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    After spending five days in Florence, I've now moved onto Paris. Florence was impressive, crowed with visitors, and very hot. I was lucky enough to have an apartment within a stones throw of the Duomo. Luckily, the church bells did not ring after 9 p.m. in the evening. Naturally, I did a lot of walking and came to admire Florence very much - there are so many small details to cause wonder. The Duomo is huge and spectacular on the outside and quite modest, in comparison, on the inside. I found that to be the case for most of the churches there. I did a lot of tourist things and only a little bit of shopping. I wasn't brave enough to enter Gucci (Florence's fashion brand) as my clothes let me down. I missed out on climbing the Duomo dome as it was fully booked for the next twenty days, but I was able to climb the tower and got incredible views of the city.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia di Francesco
    Work continues on Notre Dame
    An Egyptian spoonMy favourite series of paintings in the LouvreFrom India - a fly whisk!22In the CatacombsPart of the Bastille Day paradeThe ceiling in the Galeries Lafeyette department storeIn the Musée l'Orangerie

    Paris to Doha

    July 16, 2024 in Qatar ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

    I've just landed in Doha after having spent four full days in Paris. I liked Paris so much more than I thought I would. It was clean, friendly, cool (it rained just a little almost every day), and I was told, "empty" as the locals have all gone on holiday to avoid the Olympics - preparations for which were in full swing; the Seine was lined with grandstands and so many roads were closed around the riverside. Unfortunately, I missed out on visiting a few places I was very keen to see (the Rodin Museum and the Musée d'Orsay), but after a marathon, almost sixteen hours, over two days in the Louvre (where I satisfied myself that I'd seen all there was to see), a walk through the Catacombs, getting to see the Bastille day fireworks from the Eiffel Tower by the river, a visit to the Musée de l'Orangerie, some shopping, lots of walking the streets, and some delicious meals in the cafes and restaurants I feel that I've had at least a taste of what Paris has to offer.Read more

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